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Old 11-12-2012, 07:15 AM   #16
R100RT Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
.....As for the vapor blasting - the name implies it's just water but I've heard it's some sort of media plus water. Correct?
Correct. Typically a light slurry of water, glass beads and detergent. Think of it as an aggressive washing process rather than something that will strip paint or etch metal.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Bluethumb View Post

If you sand it off, with what and how?

Thanks!
Not a dumb question at all.

Personally I use a fine paint brush with nitromors paint stripper. Paint the paint stripper onto the powder edges that need exposing, wait a few seconds for the stripper to soak in, you can see the colour change, and then lift the softened powder with a sharp knife blade. Once it's all off I polish it with a piece of fine emery on a piece of wood to keep it flat. Finish it off with solvol autosol. Takes a while to get into doing it but it's very therapeutic if you're that way inclined.

I bought a few covers on ebay a few years ago when they were cheap. Got them powder coated as a job lot and have swapped them out when needed. The covers I swap them with get sent off when I have enough for another batch.


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Old 11-12-2012, 10:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
As for the vapor blasting - the name implies it's just water but I've heard it's some sort of media plus water. Correct?
You can use different types of media for different finishes. Just do a search on Youtube for some examples but it's essentially a slurry pump that circulates a mix of water and blast media. The slurry is accelerated using compressed air. The big advantage is that it's a dustless process and the water provides a cushion for the blast media stopping it cutting the material being blasted.

This is the swinging arm of the bike in my previous photograph



Close up of the surface. If it's done well the surface is peened making it easy to keep clean.





You can buy small machines that are ideal for bike parts, they aren't cheap though. They are getting very common in the UK with a cylinder head clean up costing around $25

http://www.vapormatt.com/products_vapormate_1_page.htm

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Old 11-12-2012, 03:06 PM   #19
ywouldi
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I've been thinking about soda blasting. You can leave the engine fully assembled and it's pretty safe stuff, rinses off with water and not too abrasive. Seems to leave a nice finish and I've been quoted 100 to clean the engine and bevel box completely. Any one else tried that?
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Old 11-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #20
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I've been thinking about soda blasting. You can leave the engine fully assembled and it's pretty safe stuff, rinses off with water and not too abrasive. Seems to leave a nice finish and I've been quoted 100 to clean the engine and bevel box completely. Any one else tried that?
Yes. It gets oil, dirt, and paint off nicely, but will not remove aluminum oxide. It's not aggressive enough to get down to bright metal. At least not with the soda and pressure that I was using. No matter how long I hovered in a spot it never seemed to leave a mark on the metal. It's also not nearly as easy to rinse off as you'd think. You have to rinse it for a LONG time with hot water to get all the soda off. Also, you should note that unlike glass bead or other blasting media, soda is not chemically inert. It will corrode steel and aluminum parts if not rinsed off VERY well.
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:07 PM   #21
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Is soda blasting something that can be done by buying a simple set-up? I have an air compressor.

I spent 6 hours, two cans of de-greaser, 2 cans of carb cleaner, a bunch of Simple Green, scrub pads, fine steel wool, and lots and lots of scrubbing until my hands are beat-up. The bike is clean but that's about it. The aluminum is still discolored plus there's grease is all kinds of crevices I can't get to.

By the way Supershaft, WD 40 and scrubbing didn't work for me. I soaked my FD, waited, soaked it some more, then scrubbed it like crazy. Results? Nothing!
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:30 PM   #22
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It doesn't work if it's real bad or even kinda bad. That takes bead blasting in my expereince. I haven't tried what Rob is showing. Some people let that staining crap set on them for a LONG time. Not me.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Rob Farmer View Post
Not a dumb question at all.

Personally I use a fine paint brush with nitromors paint stripper. Paint the paint stripper onto the powder edges that need exposing, wait a few seconds for the stripper to soak in, you can see the colour change, and then lift the softened powder with a sharp knife blade. Once it's all off I polish it with a piece of fine emery on a piece of wood to keep it flat. Finish it off with solvol autosol. Takes a while to get into doing it but it's very therapeutic if you're that way inclined.

I bought a few covers on ebay a few years ago when they were cheap. Got them powder coated as a job lot and have swapped them out when needed. The covers I swap them with get sent off when I have enough for another batch.

I don't care for poweder coat on sealing surfaces. The stuff is sometimes so thick it causes issues.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
It's not aggressive enough to get down to bright metal. At least not with the soda and pressure that I was using. No matter how long I hovered in a spot it never seemed to leave a mark on the metal.
There are coarser grades of soda that cut better. Using the plain old washing soda from the grocery store worked very well. And so did the small boxes of Arm and Hammer - took two of them to clean up a long dormant airhead.

A trick for handling the stubborn staining that just won't come until the parts can be blasted, is to wipe some silver paint on a rag and then rub it on the aluminum. It'll blend right in and be totally invisible.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:45 PM   #25
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I don't care for poweder coat on sealing surfaces. The stuff is sometimes so thick it causes issues.
I wouldn't dream of leaving powder on any sealing surface. You have to strip it off. Paint stripper and a craft knife do the job nicely.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:22 PM   #26
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What about a high pressure water gerni? Say 4000psi that should do it shouldn't it?
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:51 AM   #27
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What is a "sealing surface"? Are you talking about the mating surface where a gasket goes? Like the back of a timing chain cover? So once a part is powder coated, the mating surface has to be taken back down to original?
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Bluethumb View Post
What is a "sealing surface"? Are you talking about the mating surface where a gasket goes? Like the back of a timing chain cover? So once a part is powder coated, the mating surface has to be taken back down to original?
That's what I was talking about along with the surface for the bean can and crank seal. The threads all need to be cleaned out as well.
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