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Old 11-11-2012, 10:41 AM   #16
Alleycatdad
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I have the zip ty but I've found the CJ designs pusher works better. The only thing is if you put it in your toolkit you need to protect the aluminum threaed with tape or something as they get beat up pretty fast. Gotta order a new one one of these days....

http://www.dualsportwarehouse.com/CJ...R-30-MM-AP.htm

S
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:54 AM   #17
Treewakr
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One trick that is helpful with front axle removal is to insert a flat blade screwdriver into the gap on the right fork leg after loosening the pinch bolts. Insert finger into axle end and the axle usually slides right out.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:08 PM   #18
MortimerSickle
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Originally Posted by Hootowl View Post
Or a piece of schedule 40 plastic water pipe
+1

Small, light, effective, durable, and available free from your scrap pile.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:13 PM   #19
geometrician
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Laugh Axle Maintenance & Care (no need for pullers!)

All the WP USD-forks KTM uses (including their dirt bikes) need liberal, constant greasing to prevent getting stuck. It's in the KTM bike setup/PDI manuals techs are supposed to follow and any good KTM shop will not only do it but explain to the customer at delivery. If done from the beginning of service life the axle won't stick, even when you ride the bike in muddy areas. Dirt becomes trapped in the grease; this is another way grease around joints of heavy equipment protects by catching the dirt/dust before it can get in. If the axle is dry dirt makes its way into the pinch area and becomes embedded in the metal, causing galling & holding moisture which corrodes & swells metals. I've seen new bikes assembled with no grease & they're stuck by the first tire change. My "old" 250EXC's axle comes out like it's a new bike

If it hasn't been done at all or regularly take the time to clean the fork pinch interior carefully so as not to damage any of the surfaces. Wash everything clean and re-apply the grease. As long as you don't contaminate the brakes, you can't put too much on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoran View Post
Tip: unscrew the axle nut until it's about to come off
I do this too but to prevent damaging the soft aluminum axle nut threads I tap the axle just enough to get it to move after I've loosened it only a few turns. If you run it almost out and then strike it you can bugger the threads... as a professional wrench DAMHIK or how many come in with the threads damaged on the nut. Once the axle is loose you can run it out, but the first blows are the ones that are going to un-seat the axle which will require the most force.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
Some black PTFE coating made it very hard to come out. It also helps to sandpaper the axle to clean the black paint that makes it sticky
That isn't PTFE and you certainly don't want to remove it- that's hard-anodization to protect the axle from electrolytic corrosion & prevent distortion at load areas (bearings & axle clamps) Axles with the coating already damaged from previous work can be a bear to get the axle out as the loose "flakes" wedge things.

YMMV & I'm sure your axle will serve you well but I wouldn't want inmates to do this when cleaning & greasing is the solution
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:07 PM   #20
Nailhead
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Originally Posted by Sporting Wood View Post
Yup. If it needed one, it would have come with one.
Careful with that one...
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:10 PM   #21
Frog uk
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Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
A friend makes these


Got one of theses fitted.

No more problems, always on the bike, easy to use, end of story.
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Old 11-11-2012, 05:56 PM   #22
cjracer
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Location: Mukwonago, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleycatdad View Post
I have the zip ty but I've found the CJ designs pusher works better. The only thing is if you put it in your toolkit you need to protect the aluminum threaed with tape or something as they get beat up pretty fast. Gotta order a new one one of these days....

http://www.dualsportwarehouse.com/CJ...R-30-MM-AP.htm

S
All Current 2012 versions now STAY in your AXLE. No need to take up space in your tool kit.

Just bottom it out inside your axle tube and leave it there.

Why:

1) To protect from thread damage from being stored in your tool kit.

2) If anyone rides in Mud, water, slime. The CJD Axle Pusher also acts as a PLUG to keep the treads Clean so you won't work any grit into the threads as you remove the axle bolt. What did the inside of your axle bolt look like the last time you changed your front tire?

This design uses the the 10mm socket supplied and used to loosen up the fork clamp ends to Install and Push the axle out.

Easy, lightweight and simple.

If you have the old version and would like to UPGRADE, email me for info.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:54 PM   #23
GrenDesb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjracer View Post
All Current 2012 versions now STAY in your AXLE. No need to take up space in your tool kit.

Just bottom it out inside your axle tube and leave it there.

Why:

1) To protect from thread damage from being stored in your tool kit.

2) If anyone rides in Mud, water, slime. The CJD Axle Pusher also acts as a PLUG to keep the treads Clean so you won't work any grit into the threads as you remove the axle bolt. What did the inside of your axle bolt look like the last time you changed your front tire?

This design uses the the 10mm socket supplied and used to loosen up the fork clamp ends to Install and Push the axle out.

Easy, lightweight and simple.

If you have the old version and would like to UPGRADE, email me for info.
Loving mine but I store it in my tool kit and the dirt in the thread is a problem.

How do I know which version I have?
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:14 PM   #24
cjracer
AWD please!!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrenDesb View Post
Loving mine but I store it in my tool kit and the dirt in the thread is a problem.

How do I know which version I have?
The SE Axle pusher picture is what they all look like now, just sized to fit the correct axle thread.

NEW -

OLD -

Hope that helps.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:30 PM   #25
Sporting Wood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geometrician View Post


That isn't PTFE and you certainly don't want to remove it- that's hard-anodization to protect the axle from electrolytic corrosion & prevent distortion at load areas (bearings & axle clamps) Axles with the coating already damaged from previous work can be a bear to get the axle out as the loose "flakes" wedge things.

YMMV & I'm sure your axle will serve you well but I wouldn't want inmates to do this when cleaning & greasing is the solution

Its just simple black oxide coated. Hard anodizing or regular color anodizing for that matter may only be applied to aluminum or titanium. The axle is steel.

Grease is good. I use anti-seize.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:57 PM   #26
flux_capacitor
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CJ that is a rad design. I have the Zip Ty pull and it's useless. Ill be ordering one of those you make soon.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:07 PM   #27
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjracer View Post
The SE Axle pusher picture is what they all look like now, just sized to fit the correct axle thread.

NEW -

OLD -

Hope that helps.
That looks like a great idea CJ! So the axle is threaded deep enough that you screw this in and still have enough threads left to not bottom out the axle nut against it?

Can I have one in blue for the inside of the axle of my Husaberg please.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:49 AM   #28
cjracer
AWD please!!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
That looks like a great idea CJ! So the axle is threaded deep enough that you screw this in and still have enough threads left to not bottom out the axle nut against it?

Can I have one in blue for the inside of the axle of my Husaberg please.
Yes it is. Just keep it in there all the time. Every axle should have one.

Blue. Sure can, they will go great with Blue peg extensions.

Email me for details.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:54 PM   #29
Lc8grrr
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Location: Not quite Tamworth, Aus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K2m View Post
This method with a hole drilled through both sides slightly larger than the screwdriver ....... Works a treat with no weight added to the bike.
Yep +1
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:45 PM   #30
K2m
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So...... keep it well greased. Loosen the nut a couple of threads..... kick the nut (or remove boot use as hammer). Undo another couple of threads.... repeat boot until you run out of thread. Put the screw driver through both holes you pre drilled, and twist out axle. You can dry run this to determine where to drill. Even if you cannot expose the hole completely. You can get the tip of the driver in and twist. Do not hit the nut with less than a thread on. Keep it well greased.

No weight has been added to your bike. If you want to remove some weight get a M8 or M6?? stainless allen bolt. Cut the head of....... weld it to the top of the spark plug spanner. You can use the T piece allen key tool to remove and refit spark plugs. You can remove a lot of weight from the tool kit with that trick. I did it years ago, it works perfect. You are the first person to be told this trick...............

Here is a picture of this tool in use during servicing at home.

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