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Old 11-12-2012, 12:35 PM   #1
mike.l OP
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Clutch not finding neutral

Replaced the the slave+backing plate with new Oberon kit and it's working well except
I still can't get neutral when I'm stopped in traffic. What else should I be looking to fix
this problem...possibly the clutch itself or push rod.
Any ideas would be a help!
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:25 PM   #2
rossguzzi
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I have been going through a similar thing.
Check,
Clutch rod, clutch pack for wear etc, leaks in MC, bleed, bleed, bleed.
Hope this helps.

Also search function.
Cheers
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:21 PM   #3
corndog67
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The clutch would seem to be dragging, just ever so slightly. It needs to be disengages just a little bit more.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:22 AM   #4
bigkuri
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This happened to me when I fitted the Oberon. I ended up buying a brake-line vacuum bleeder (always wanted one...) and it fixed it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:55 PM   #5
thugdog
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An oldie, but a goodie.

Eight years ago, this forum shared how a pesky neutral was most often due to the OIL JET...perhaps it's clogged (or perhaps modified too large)?

Both, too much and too little oil FLOW can cause finding neutral problematic, and so on.

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Old 11-14-2012, 08:00 PM   #6
Tosh Togo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.l View Post
Replaced the the slave+backing plate with new Oberon kit and it's working well except
I still can't get neutral when I'm stopped in traffic. What else should I be looking to fix
this problem...possibly the clutch itself or push rod.
Any ideas would be a help!
A LOT of bikes do this, and the easy workaround is to find neutral just before you come to a complete stop.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:50 PM   #7
mike.l OP
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Ok thanks. I'm going to change the pushrod to see if that helps...at 37,000 miles (late '05 950)
it's probably a good idea anyway. The oil jet is a new one on me... Where is it and how do I fix it?
The gear change is loads better since changing to the Oberon slave, though not getting neutral when
stop/start in traffic is a pain.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:52 PM   #8
AdvGa
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Here's the Oil Jet cleaning link:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=62


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Old 11-15-2012, 03:05 PM   #9
bloc
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Does your low oil pressure light flicker at idle when the bike is hot? Noisy cam chains?

My bike was bad about missing neutral under these conditions and almost never has the issue now that I addressed the oil pressure regulator. Just like a clogged jet will restrict oil flow to the clutch, low oil pressure at idle can do the same thing.

Mine is a 2004 950 with 30k miles, for the record.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:14 PM   #10
K2m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
Does your low oil pressure light flicker at idle when the bike is hot? Noisy cam chains?

My bike was bad about missing neutral under these conditions and almost never has the issue now that I addressed the oil pressure regulator. Just like a clogged jet will restrict oil flow to the clutch, low oil pressure at idle can do the same thing.

Mine is a 2004 950 with 30k miles, for the record.
Tell us more bloc............ you replace the oil reg. with the latest incarnation of the unit ????

Sounds like a big improvement ????? Improves idle cam rattle when hot ???

What year did you do it?

I will add......... there is one more factor to the clutch. As we know the oil jet puts oil to the centre of the clutch pack. This lubricates the clutch plates. To big an oil jet puts to much oil in to the pack making it hard to select neutral due to drag on the plates having to much oil. Some will be aware that the Feliciani mod to Meoni's clutch allows oil to escape the clutch pack quicker by increasing the oil removal holes......thus allowing a larger oil jet to be used to give better lubrication to the plates.......... So what I am suggesting is to do the Feliciani mod to the basket..... Then play around with your jet size. I have Dellorto jets (EBay) #30, #60, #90, #120.

"You can have your cake and eat it to" Hot knife through butter.......

Add a short FB leaver at the handle bar and you have the best clutch possible........ simply brilliant

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20...utch_mods.html
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:12 PM   #11
bloc
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Yeah, updated oil pressure regulator assembly, not just the piston. I did it recently and it totally stopped the flickering oil pressure light, made the cam chain tensioners pump up more quickly, and made the cam chain rattle FAR less noticeable. I did do cam chains at the same time as mine were out of spec, but new ones didn't change the spec much. The biggest difference was from the regulator, by far. And like I said, it fixed a serious problem finding neutral when the oil was hot.

All of this may be a moot point if the OP doesn't have a flickering light or any difference from warm to cold.

That said, making certain the slave is bled as well as possible is critical.. I like compressing the lever as much as possible then opening the bleeder. This way the volume of fluid that is pushed into the slave cyl when the lever is pulled, hopefully stirring up some bubbles with it, is pushed back out the bleeder screw once cracked. This should get any air bubbles trapped in the top of the slave cylinder. It also fixes the problem of fluid going from the lever straight out the screw if it is opened before actually pulling the lever.
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:54 AM   #12
scottrnelson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tosh Togo View Post
A LOT of bikes do this, and the easy workaround is to find neutral just before you come to a complete stop.
That's what I did for about seven years with a Ducati ST2 that didn't seem to want to release the clutch 100%.

I also found that rolling forward a couple of inches while looking for neutral often worked. I would let the clutch out just enough to move the bike, pull the clutch back in, then it would usually go into neutral.

After so many years of not being able to always shift directly to neutral when stopped, I just use one of the other methods and don't give it a second thought. I don't even know for sure if my two current bikes always like to get into neutral at a stop or not.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:34 PM   #13
K2m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrnelson View Post
That's what I did for about seven years with a Ducati ST2 that didn't seem to want to release the clutch 100%.

I also found that rolling forward a couple of inches while looking for neutral often worked. I would let the clutch out just enough to move the bike, pull the clutch back in, then it would usually go into neutral.

After so many years of not being able to always shift directly to neutral when stopped, I just use one of the other methods and don't give it a second thought. I don't even know for sure if my two current bikes always like to get into neutral at a stop or not.

You can also kill the motor, select neutral, and start it up. It is a dame nuisance tho. Much better to fix the thing if you can.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:36 AM   #14
rossguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
Yeah, updated oil pressure regulator assembly, not just the piston. I did it recently and it totally stopped the flickering oil pressure light, made the cam chain tensioners pump up more quickly, and made the cam chain rattle FAR less noticeable. I did do cam chains at the same time as mine were out of spec, but new ones didn't change the spec much. The biggest difference was from the regulator, by far. And like I said, it fixed a serious problem finding neutral when the oil was hot.

All of this may be a moot point if the OP doesn't have a flickering light or any difference from warm to cold.

That said, making certain the slave is bled as well as possible is critical.. I like compressing the lever as much as possible then opening the bleeder. This way the volume of fluid that is pushed into the slave cyl when the lever is pulled, hopefully stirring up some bubbles with it, is pushed back out the bleeder screw once cracked. This should get any air bubbles trapped in the top of the slave cylinder. It also fixes the problem of fluid going from the lever straight out the screw if it is opened before actually pulling the lever.
Is there a way of telling if the oil pressure reg assembly has been upgraded withouth pulling the spring out and measuring? Is there a difference in the housing etc? I would like to check mine but not too sure what to look for.
I have had it a bit noisy on start up a couple times and finding neutral is a biatch right now. I have a new slave on its way. The rest of the clutch / oil jet, checks out.
Cheers.
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:28 AM   #15
rokklym
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Originally Posted by K2m View Post
You can also kill the motor, select neutral, and start it up. It is a dame nuisance tho. Much better to fix the thing if you can.
Mine does the same thing every once in a while. It won't stop in neutral when you try to shift it while parked, but when you kill the motor it goes right into neutral.
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