GSA Headlight oddity- help!

[stwilliams]

Went to ride my 2010 GSA the other day. On start up got the "Lampf" warning. Realized the main headlight was burned out. Had a spare H7 bulb so I removed the old bulb, which was definitely burned out and replaced with a new one. Got it all buttoned up, turned on ignition and still got warning. Checked and no headlight.

This was very strange. I pulled the new bulb out. Still looked good. So I got out my voltmeter and checked at the terminal block that pushes on to back of bulb. Only reading about 0.1 volts. Even stranger is the smaller lamp still works fine, and the blinkers, no problem. (And no, I haven't dicked with the wiring on the bike.)

I'm baffled as to where to start looking. Any suggestions?

[WindSailor]

First thought was to put dielectric grease on the bulb tabs and insert it into the power socket and try it again without mounting the bulb inside of the headlight assembly and see what happens.

The low beam power wire should be totally separate of the blinkers etc. and should only have power when the bike is running.

Starting the bike with the bulb out and with the bike running you should have ~14 volts at the bulb socket (and the 'Lampf' error).

Once you get the bulb burning correctly it will take the bike a few seconds to recognize that things are ok and then the 'Lampf' error should go out.

[UAS]

When you saw 0.1 volts at the headlight connector, was it with or without the bike started? Not to sound like dick but I think the headlight only lights after engine startup. If checking the new bulb with your ohm meter what is the resistance across the terminals? I've seen a lot of instances where it was thought the bulb was good with a visual inspection but was actually at fault.

Best of Luck!

[stwilliams]

Originally Posted by UAS

When you saw 0.1 volts at the headlight connector, was it with or without the bike started? Not to sound like dick but I think the headlight only lights after engine startup. If checking the new bulb with your ohm meter what is the resistance across the terminals? I've seen a lot of instances where it was thought the bulb was good with a visual inspection but was actually at fault.

Best of Luck!

Well, you don't sound like a dick. And you are right. I was a little baffled because the high beam works with the bike off, as does the parking lamp. With everything hooked back up, with the ignition switch on it still shows a fault, but it cleared when I fired up the bike, and the lamp works. Turned off and back on. No "lampf" fault any more.

[UAS]

Excellent! I did not know the high beam will come on without the engine started.

[roadtrip22]

I had that problem with my 06 1200GS. I found when i buttoned it all up the pins inside the connector were just a tad warn and loose. took a pick and pressed out the pins on the connector cleaned everything up and added some electric grease the the connectors and put it all back together. havn't had a problem since. I'm guessing its from age and the vibrations over time. I love simple fixes. keeps more money in my pocket I can spend on more gadgets and less on repairs..

[Strong Bad]

Originally Posted by WindSailor

First thought was to put dielectric grease on the bulb tabs and insert it into the power socket and try it again without mounting the bulb inside of the headlight assembly and see what happens.

Wait...what?? What is the dielectric grease supposed to do? You do know that it doesn't conduct, right??

[WindSailor]

Should I have said an 'oxide inhibitor' would that make it better?

[WindSailor]

Actually I want that inhibitor to be non-conductive. I want physical contact to be my main contact point, not a glob of conductive grease etc.

[Strong Bad]

Originally Posted by WindSailor

Actually I want that inhibitor to be non-conductive. I want physical contact to be my main contact point, not a glob of conductive grease etc.

OK, I've got it, you are saying that by inhibiting oxides the lamp will suddenly start working? Amazing how complicated people can make things around here.

[WindSailor]

Originally Posted by Strong Bad

OK, I've got it, you are saying that by inhibiting oxides the lamp will suddenly start working? Amazing how complicated people can make things around here.

It's not complicated at all.

Reduce the oxidation and help keep the contact area cleaner.

Very basic stuff.

-Edit-
Hey if I made things complicated - I apologize. That was not my intention. Originally you questioned my idea of using a dielectric grease and I thought I answered that. I don't want to go on quibbling over 'opinions' of what should be used - I've said my piece - you can have yours. I'm done.

[Strong Bad]

Originally Posted by WindSailor

It's not complicated at all.

Reduce the oxidation and help keep the contact area cleaner.

Very basic stuff.

-Edit-
Hey if I made things complicated - I apologize. That was not my intention. Originally you questioned my idea of using a dielectric grease and I thought I answered that. I don't want to go on quibbling over 'opinions' of what should be used - I've said my piece - you can have yours. I'm done.

Take it easy there Skipper, just giving you a hard time for the dielectric grease which ain't going to do anything to solve the problem. Worry about dielectric grease after you have the problem solved.