Oil Change - then drip, drip, drip

[slowrideOhio]

I have an 07 RT, bought the bike used this year, just changed the oil for the first time.
Used a new crush washer, all went well, or so I thought.
Now I've got a very slight drip at the drain plug.

Are there any tricks to getting a good seal? I have had a k100rs for the last 5 years, so it wasn't my first oil change.
Do I need to loosen the drain plug, and try again? New crush washer?

Thanks,

Dean

[mb90535im]

I've seen leaks when the old crush was washer left in place (stuck to the bottom of the pan) and the new washer installed along with it. Since you've done this before I assume that is not the issue.

Also, check the area around the plug for cracks in the pan.

[def]

If no cracks are found, I would merely slightly loosen the plug and re-snug the plug several times to smear the surface of the crush washer, thereby resealing the surfaces.

[Dan-M]

Originally Posted by def

If no cracks are found, I would merely slightly loosen the plug and re-snug the plug several times to smear the surface of the crush washer, thereby resealing the surfaces.

What he said. Back it off 1/4 turn and re-tighten.

[slowrideOhio]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try backing off and retightening.
I'm pretty sure the old crush washer came off when I took the plug out.

[scooteraug02]

Did you torque it to the right spec. to make it crush. It seems like too much with the torque wrench so without you may not have crushed it.

[hillbillypolack]

Can't remember if you have the physical room, but if you do loosen it, see if you can spin the washer a little before snugging it down.

[Wolfgang55]

If the female threads are fatigued, this will cause a slow leak.

[gr8grins]

I had the same problem on a previous boxer bike and I had not torqued it enough (got the wrong spec). Someone please correct me if I am still wrong - 24 ft/lbs then slowly to 32ft/lbs is what I was corrected to use and the leak stopped.
Good luck
grins

[bemiiten]

Originally Posted by gr8grins

I had the same problem on a previous boxer bike and I had not torqued it enough (got the wrong spec). Someone please correct me if I am still wrong - 24 ft/lbs then slowly to 32ft/lbs is what I was corrected to use and the leak stopped.
Good luck
grins

IN/LBS !! My In/lbs torque wrench only goes to around 29 & with the threads always full of oil, I find that is more then enough to crush the washer.

[mikegc]

Originally Posted by bemiiten

IN/LBS !! My In/lbs torque wrench only goes to around 29 & with the threads always full of oil, I find that is more then enough to crush the washer.

I don't have an RT but on my '09 GSA, I drop the dirty oil and reinstall the drain plug (size M16 x 1.5 in) with one wrap of teflon tape and a new crush washer. I do an Initial torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs). I put the fresh oil in and do a final touque to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs). I called my dealer and he said the torque values were the same for a hexhead RT.

Mike

[def]

Originally Posted by Wolfgang55

If the female threads are fatigued, this will cause a slow leak.

Threads (metric or SAE) are a poor means of sealing and are meant to hold tension not provide sealing...hence the use of a crush washer to provide the seal and avoid a leak.

When snugging a threaded plug, go slowly as you apply torque. You can easily feel the point where the plug begins to seal against the sealing washer. I do this on all my drain plugs from the lawn mower to the CAT diesel drain plug....never a leak and no damaged male or female threads. Same applies for spark plugs.

Also, I believe a torque wrench is of little or no use in these applications. Develop the correct feel for securing drain plugs and spark plugs. Reserve the torque wrench for securing high torque fasteners like lug nuts or wheel bolts.

I used to use my torque wrench to improve my tightening skills when I worked on the old Brit bikes in the 60s.

I found that I was stripping about one in five female threads when assembling the rocker box covers onto the cylinder heads (650 Triumphs were especially prone to this thread damage).

Some time with the torque wrench and a test fixture helped me reduce stripping to about one in twenty (those old alloy heads were very buttery and were not really capable of holding threads at appropriate torque).

Those of use who have been doing our own oil changes for years seem to over tighten the plugs. I have adopted the practice of using short handle tools and wrenches to help reduce the pressure I apply when snugging one of these threads. So far, it has worked.

[scooteraug02]

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/oil-change.html



"Wipe off the mating surface, then reinstall the oil drain plug, shown above with the new crush-washer in place. Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm) initially, then to 24 ft-lbs (32 Nm). "