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Old 11-26-2012, 07:00 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jim Moore View Post
There are two big things you need to worry about. One is if your transmission and engine are misaligned, you will eat your clutch splines every 30K miles, no matter what you do to it. It's easy to check by looking in the starter hole, so it shouldn't be a surprise.
What would you look for in the starter hole?
Originally Posted by scottie boy
If you calculated the money spent versus time actually used, vaginas cost more per hour than the space shuttle.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:29 AM   #17
Jim Moore
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Originally Posted by Spyker View Post
What would you look for in the starter hole?
Pull the starter. Hold the clutch lever in (tie it off if you're by yourself) and use a thin screwdriver at the edge of the clutch disc to rotate the clutch disc back and forth. You can see the input splines if you look in the hole at the correct angle. The splines and disc should rotate together. If the disc will move on the splines you have a problem. It's an easy test once you play with it a little bit. Good luck.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:46 PM   #18
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Hmm, I did just this, but fewer miles a lot of miles ago. Mine had about 11,685, something like that miles on it September 2004.
I flew to it, the previous owner and I went to the DMV and completed the paperwork. I left for home about an hour later. Stopping along the way I was home in a few days, with about 3,500 more miles on the bike.
I changed oils and sync'd the TB's.
I've done a good bit of work since.
The bike has not been the cheapest bike to get to and past 100,000 miles but it has been the most fun.
It is not the best bike ever nor is it anywhere the easiest or cheapest to keep running. But, I like it just fine.
It wheelies, jumps and slides better than it probably should for something this big and old. But, I suppose the same could be said for me.

Personally I didn't check a thing when I paid for mine as I did that by sending a check to pay off the note.
In retrospect that was just fine the PO was a good guy. Thanks David

I have had ideas to sell mine and go get something else, then I usually wander unto some old images of travels and the bike and I remember what that was like and any thoughts of selling fade away. We're wearing our way toward ten years and past 200,000 miles. Neither of us are what we were in 2004, we both carry a few more scars and a few more pounds.
I'll keep riding, wearing out parts and replacing them until such time I can't get replacements rebuild them myself or afford either. Then I'll park the old thing and maybe sneak it into an unused corner of the castle where I can disappear to and sit aboard and once again "ride" into my memories.

I've also entertained the thought of buying another less used one. But, I've also quashed that with the memories of all those pricey bits I've replaced and the sheer weight of the thing, and the piss poor mileage it returns and on and on... Until I just go mount up and ride.

Check the FD hasn't any big leaks and the rear wheel doesn't wobble side to side. The oil is in the sight glass and the idle is good enough. Check the cables aren't kinked and the ends not rusted to clods. The seat will have discoloured if it is a silver bike and the seat stock. there'll be a wide brown mark along either red seam. That will be the glue coming through. have the seat recovered and don't worry yourself ab out it.

Pull the rear and swinging arm about 50,000 miles and check the drive shaft for play, It should never require more lube than at install unless you fill it with water a good deal and soap ti scrub the molly paste off the splines. The front don't slide but a hair and the rear splines not very far at all.

For ant 1150 GS Adventure they are about 6 years out of print at least out of the shops, I'd check all that for even light mileage. I consider anything under 10,000 miles per year to be light use. I have seen a few around the US with less than 40,000 miles and that would be very light use. Or worse sitting a lot. The battery is likely to be dead. It may work a few times but certainly won't stand up to any chilly mornings. I intend to replace mine with a Lithium Ion.
I would not rebuild anything that did not need it. And I'd inspect it carefully first before determining that was required.
The only corroding thing on a 1150 is the clutch line. that is a pretty simple fix, The hardline gets to be a mess.
There are minimal moving parts in the TB's and only the shaft seals being the failure. I'd check for air leaks first before rebuilding them. UKGSer site should have good insight into sources for parts your side of the pond.
I've put 95,000 miles on my first clutch and I'm at that again with the second or nearly. I did not jump at the ceramic. It is not that much of a wear item since I don't tend to slip the thing much.
My 1997 CBR 900RR was sold at 100,000+ miles with the OEM clutch in place.
I've not touched my steering head bearings or the front pivot or the front arm bearings or the front wheel bearings, the rear swinging arm was replaced when the last drive shaft let loose.
The drive shaft is something to pull out and inspect. If it is loose get a new one. When it lets go it will take the swinging arm. And if you think the driveshaft is dear, take a look at the price for the swinging arm.
The cam chain tensioner is an easy fix. The longer fix is the throttle cables upgrade. Look around here and you can see what that looks like.
The spark caps on the dual sparks are big bucks and fail about 40,000 miles or so. I suspect that depends on heat. It is hot in southern California traffic so I've gone through a few.
The tell tale is easy. Pull the small wire loose at the coupling and if the sounds of idle doesn't change that is a bad one.
At low mileage unless a fat guy has been motocrossing it with flat tires the spokes are likely to be fine. I can confess to not bothering with mine other than to pick birds out of them on occasion. But, I ride off my main stand too so I abuse the thing horribly.
I baby thing thing when it comes to oil. I've switched to Castrol HIgh Mileage blend at ab out 125,000 miles or so. I try to remember to change it every 5,000 miles or there abouts. It burns about a a quart of oil in maybe 6,000 miles or more depending on how spirited my riding is. My bike has gone 10,000 miles between changes a time or two. sometimes things just have to not be done. Neither of us is dead yet so we dodged that bullet.
The brake bleed for ABS on the 1150 is a pain in the butt, set aside a day and do it carefully and completely. It makes a difference. eventually my ABS should fail completely and I'll pitch it into the dumpster and go without. The fittings are likely to be hanging on my wall in the next few months to sort just that. The Adventures come with Stainless overbraid as standard. That is part of what brought me to the Adventure in the first place. That and the one piece seat.

Personally I wouldn't bother with the rolling road tune.

Originally Posted by Chazza View Post
As the title of the thread suggests, I'm on the hunt for a new ride. I'm really digging the 1150 GSA's at the moment, especially in grey.

Anyway, most of the examples I've seen so far are between 15k and 30k miles. Not that mileage bothers me hugely, however, I'm super SUPER anal (hehe, anal...) about maintenance. So, after a few futile searches, I've come here to ask a question or two.

If you guys bought a bike with an un-known un-proven history (log books are easily forged and I'll have no idea of the bike's history buying from a stranger), what would you service or replace as a matter of routine to keep the wheels rolling, so to speak.

I've got a good idea - here's my preliminary list. And yes, I know it's probably WAY over the top, but once it's done, I'll know the bike's history.

So it looks like I'll be ripping the all the calipers apart to replace the slave-cylinder seals and clean the slave cylinders themselves, full brake and clutch bleed, new pads, possible upgrade to stainless steel braided hoses, new wheel bearings, new steering stem bearings, new suspension linkage bearings (front and rear), rebuild both master cylinders, new clutch slave cylinder, new clutch plate (is a paddle-ceramic friction plate worth upgrading to?), new swing-arm bearings, gearbox oil, engine oil and filter, TB strip clean and balance, drive shaft re-grease / inspection, final drive oil, starter strip clean and re-grease, fuel filter, new handlebars, spoke tension check / adjustment / balance, valve adjustment / check, cam chain tensioner replacement and probably a tune-up on a rolling road to sort any lean-condition fuelling issues out.

I know it's a pretty long list, and much of that won't strictly be required, but as I mentioned before, I DESPISE the idea that through a simple oversight my bike could let me down somewhere remote.

And yes, if you've not figured already I'm good with tools. As a military-trained mechanic of 6 years I've had the pleasure (HA!) of working on almost everything from generators, to motorbikes, to tanks and everything in between.

So please, if there's anything I've missed off let me know. Likewise for any common problems - I don't mind playing around with wiring or stripping engines down - if I DO go ahead and buy a bike, when I'm finished doing my initial service / inspection, I want it to be more reliable than a new bike!

Thanks in advance guys,

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