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Old 03-31-2013, 01:43 AM   #211
Rob Farmer
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Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire. England
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Bummer about the head Kev, it was all going so well up until you found that. Get in touch with richie Moore about the exhaust thread, there's a kit more to richie's work than the BMW stuff we know about. He does a lot if Brit and Italian bike engine work as well. I'm sure he will be able to sort it out for you. I have a norton commando head sitting in the garage that I need to get to him to sort the exhaust thread out. He does a nice repair on these so there shouldn't be any reason why yours cannot be sorted in the same way.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:18 AM   #212
photomd
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Not going smoothly? It's a gorgeous 43 year old bike you're riding. Looks good from here.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:23 PM   #213
vacantstare
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There is a repair out there for those exhaust threads:


I don't hold this up as an example of the repair done right- this head was found to be cracked and was junked, but it's a possibility.

I think here in the U.S., Cycle Garden may offer this service...
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:47 AM   #214
England-Kev OP
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My old goose seems to be fighting me at every step, I have had an annoying little leak of fork oil from the left hand fork since I bought the bike, I have since stripped cleaned, and refilled with fork oil, and still it drips on the garage floor, although it appears to be getting worse.
So on Sunday I again drained the fork, fitted a new stainless screw, with new sealing washer, and added some ptfe tape to the threads for good measure. So imagine my dismay when I went into the garage today to see another puddle of fork oil under the left hand fork.

So this time I paid a bit more attention to where it was coming from, and it would seem I have a leak at the weld on the fork bottom, as oil is above the screw, and also on the mudguard stays.

More investigation on Saturday then.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:04 AM   #215
woodly1069
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damn! how would that thing break? must have been hit HARD!
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:10 PM   #216
MZRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
My old goose seems to be fighting me at every step, I have had an annoying little leak of fork oil from the left hand fork since I bought the bike, I have since stripped cleaned, and refilled with fork oil, and still it drips on the garage floor, although it appears to be getting worse.
So on Sunday I again drained the fork, fitted a new stainless screw, with new sealing washer, and added some ptfe tape to the threads for good measure. So imagine my dismay when I went into the garage today to see another puddle of fork oil under the left hand fork.

So this time I paid a bit more attention to where it was coming from, and it would seem I have a leak at the weld on the fork bottom, as oil is above the screw, and also on the mudguard stays.

More investigation on Saturday then.
I had a persistent leak like that on a customer's Ambo once. Nothing I tried with the drain screw stopped it. Turned out the leak was higher up - the o-ring sealing the fork slider to the chrome seal holder was missing. Once an o-ring was installed, the leak was gone.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:03 PM   #217
spress
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Fork oil leak

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Originally Posted by MZRider View Post
I had a persistent leak like that on a customer's Ambo once. Nothing I tried with the drain screw stopped it. Turned out the leak was higher up - the o-ring sealing the fork slider to the chrome seal holder was missing. Once an o-ring was installed, the leak was gone.
..... and also run a small bead of JB Weld around the joint inside the chrome seal holders while you've got them off. Mine are as dry as a bone now.

Cheers, S
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:10 AM   #218
England-Kev OP
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I appear to have two leaks on the fork leg, yesterday I tied some cloth around the top of the slider, just under the chrome section, and another piece at the bottom just above the mudguard stays. Today when I checked the two pieces of cloth, the top one was wet, the bottom one was dry, butI still had oil on the drain screw.


So how do you get Guzzi forks apart, the Chilton book seems ever so complicated?

Ok found it...... http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/m...rame_forks.htm

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Old 04-05-2013, 11:11 AM   #219
F_Sahms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
I appear to have two leaks on the fork leg, yesterday I tied some cloth around the top of the slider, just under the chrome section, and another piece at the bottom just above the mudguard stays. Today when I checked the two pieces of cloth, the top one was wet, the bottom one was dry, butI still had oil on the drain screw.


So how do you get Guzzi forks apart, the Chilton book seems ever so complicated?

Ok found it...... http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/m...rame_forks.htm
There's a small-diameter o-ring that seals the chrome seal holder to the steel fork lower. That can leak, as can the actual seam where the parts of that chrome seal holder were put together. Someone mentioned JB Welding that seam just in case.
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:32 PM   #220
spress
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Fork oil leaks

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Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
I appear to have two leaks on the fork leg, yesterday I tied some cloth around the top of the slider, just under the chrome section, and another piece at the bottom just above the mudguard stays. Today when I checked the two pieces of cloth, the top one was wet, the bottom one was dry, butI still had oil on the drain screw.


So how do you get Guzzi forks apart, the Chilton book seems ever so complicated?

Ok found it...... http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/m...rame_forks.htm
The oil is leaking from the chrome seal holder. The oil you found on the drain screw is the oil that has run down from the chrome seal holder and collected in the small nut retainer that is welded to the slider and to which the mudguard stay is attached. It has run from here to the bottom of the slider.

Dismantle the forks and replace the fork seals, the chrome holder 'o' rings, and JB Weld the joint inside the chrome holders. Refill with 30W oil. It is an easy job and Greg Bender's guide is very helpful. Don't worry too much about less than significant wear on the sliding parts. The forks are well-engineered and the tolerances can be much greater than those required for modern fork components. Indeed, I have found that simply turning the stanchions by 90 degrees will suffice to bring new friction surfaces together to compensate for wear. Of course, it is always a question of balancing the repairs one chooses against ones wallet.

For all this, as I previously mentioned, mine are now as dry as a bone and perform very well considering the age of this technology.

Good luck and keep up the great thread.

Cheers, S
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:59 PM   #221
F_Sahms
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In my Eldo I ended up using straight 50 wt in the front forks. Their action is as sophisticated as a fist in a coffee can of oil.

This tool helps:




And this one to get the fork back in the upper clamp:

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Old 04-05-2013, 07:16 PM   #222
eldomike
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Couldn't have described it better myself

Quote:
Originally Posted by F_Sahms View Post
In my Eldo I ended up using straight 50 wt in the front forks. Their action is as sophisticated as a fist in a coffee can of oil.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:33 PM   #223
England-Kev OP
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It is an easy job
Easy! easy? I couldn't get the fork legs out of the tripple tree no matter how hard I tried in the end I gave up and bolted everything back together

I think my bike may well be visiting the Guzzi shop.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:05 PM   #224
F_Sahms
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Easy! easy? I couldn't get the fork legs out of the tripple tree no matter how hard I tried in the end I gave up and bolted everything back together

I think my bike may well be visiting the Guzzi shop.
How did you try to disassemble? The fork-leg tops are a taper fit in the top triple clamp. The method I use requires an old fork-top nut.

Loosen all the clamp bolts.

Remove top nut and replace with your used one, but don't thread it all the way down.

Pound on used nut with hammer to free the taper fit. I've never even needed the heat wrench, but it may be helpful if they're really stuck.

If it's the lower clamp that's stuck, heat, penetrant and maybe a tapered screwdriver or chisel in the slot may help.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:35 PM   #225
danedg
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Here's what your dealing with



Here are the tapered top ends of the forks. These show an additional threaded piece which may or may nor be specific to the 74 Eldo, but that was not to problem when I was tearing down.
The 36 mm left fork top nut just spun right out of there, just like it shoulda...
The right nut and fork kicked my ass!!!
The problem ended up being, the tapered ends were not sucked up into the tapered receiver as well as they originally were.
The right one was not fit tightly, you can see the lump of grease on the taper. It should have been clean like the other.
When it came time to remove the 36 mm bolt, it's was sticky, but the whole assembly was spinning around underneath.
I ended up lifting the whole assembly up so the taper fit tightly and was able to extract the top nut.
It did it to me a coupla times. Sunuvabitch!!!!
If you "lift" the whole assembly the taper will reseat and you should be able to pull the topnut and the whole deal then comes apart as described in Italian...
The key is, you'll need to insert an appropriate washer betwixt top nut and tripple that will tightly suck up the taper. The top nut doesn't tighten down enough anymore without the washer.
If the taper's tight, the nut will pop every time...

PS My pics are dyslexic. What is the right fork is shown left.
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