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Old 02-11-2013, 04:22 PM   #31
WhicheverAnyWayCan OP
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Location: Seven Springs NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
That is a good idea on the shock bars to test height. You can cycle the wheel and see what kind of belt or chain tension you may need with the raised ride height.

Yeah, I agree, I doubt any shock compant is gonna wanna trade out shocks if you get the wrong length.
Yeah, thanks! Now my biker buddies are wanting to borrow it! hehe


On a separate topic, I got laid off from work today. There goes some of my $$ for the project and saving up for the trip! But fear not, I will be fine..
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:09 PM   #32
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Sorry to hear about that. Always sucks. Still a tough economy out there even with the "signs of recovery" we keep HEARING about.

It is very rare though to have both aspects a good project needs, time AND money. I usually have the money but am swamped with work so NO time, OR work is slow and I have time but I can't spare any money for a project.

Hope the work front gets better.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:03 PM   #33
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Woke up this morning.. checked my checking account balance as I do regularly to be sure everything is up to date and not off. To my surprise, my tax refund arrived! Never before in my life my tax refund arrive in my account/mailbox exactly 7 days after I filed for it (filed on 4th).

So now it looks like I got time AND some money! So if I can put some of my tax refund $ aside, and get these parts off then try to sell them. (heads, jugs, and cams) Maybe I'll sell them sooner than later and use some of $ to buy parts.







Remind you of Buell motor??





Compare the jugs! On the left is 04 and later, and on the right is Pre-03. If you got a keen eyes, you will notice that fins are longer on the left (04+) than on the right and that is why I am changing to help improve air flowing to cool engine faster.




The DPO (Dipshit Previous Owner) left this bolt with no teeth to unscrew them loose so I had to stop right there. I'll see if I can maybe heat it up a bit tomorrow and try to unscrew it loose. I tried using adjustable plier but had no luck.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:19 PM   #34
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muggyweld? Building my own fuel tank..

I planned on purchasing Carducci's(JimmyTheHog) Dual Sport fuel tank but he is currently working on that right now and it is not known what price he would sell it at? Also, I was laid off so with too much time but little money it dawned on me that I have 4 4x8 sheet metal in my yard so I thought why not make my own fuel tank? First, I will make cardboard as a cutting template and then make a wood molding fuel tank. The cardboard template is to cut metal sheet and wood molding is used to bend sheet into shape.

So I discussed this idea with my father who has 40+ years of mechanic experience but now disabled. His philosophy is that man who dies with most tools win! He told me that for my budget wanting to save money he recommended me to get MuggyWeld and he has oxyacetylene I can use to gas weld tank together and all other projects I want to build for the bike. Panniers, top racks, etc. I never thought about it until now. He said that just about almost any heating source (propane, map, etc) would work ok but may take longer. Now that I checked it out.. it is awesome! How cool is it that you carry few rods with you for emergency and if something break in middle of nowhere, just use your propane tank or maybe MSR to heat and the rod melts welding metal together!! This rods is now a "must-have" for most ADV Riders doing RTW rides.

More later!
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:18 AM   #35
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That is interesting stuff.
Just my observation, if trying to use propane or map gas the heat affected area is much larger than Oxy/Acetalene. You can focus the heat much better and in a smaller area with O/A. You CAN weld, braze, etc with map/propane but the flame is usually much larger, more like a rose bud tip on an O/A torch and it heats too much area.

When possible I would use the O/A, but a back country or remote area fix up with prop/map is a viable option.

PS, that engine block that was welded up looks like the old Caddy flathead that was in my '40 LaSalle. It had thrown a rod at some point and had a huge hole in the block. Someone had ponded the divet back down and stick welded the block back up, it still ran. Man the weld was horrible, but it held and didn't leak oil. Amazing what people used to fix and now we throw away.
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kellymac530 screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 10:22 AM Reason: ps
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:56 PM   #36
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Late Christmas from local H-D Dealer

Guess what I got free from local H-D dealer??



A whole 16" rim!! So what to do with it you might ask?? I can get the $150 hub off it and use it with 17" Buchanan's rim that I will be ordering soon.

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Old 02-20-2013, 01:43 PM   #37
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Nice score, never hurts to ask right..
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:25 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
That is interesting stuff.
Just my observation, if trying to use propane or map gas the heat affected area is much larger than Oxy/Acetalene. You can focus the heat much better and in a smaller area with O/A. You CAN weld, braze, etc with map/propane but the flame is usually much larger, more like a rose bud tip on an O/A torch and it heats too much area.

When possible I would use the O/A, but a back country or remote area fix up with prop/map is a viable option.

PS, that engine block that was welded up looks like the old Caddy flathead that was in my '40 LaSalle. It had thrown a rod at some point and had a huge hole in the block. Someone had ponded the divet back down and stick welded the block back up, it still ran. Man the weld was horrible, but it held and didn't leak oil. Amazing what people used to fix and now we throw away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
Nice score, never hurts to ask right..
I am leaning toward purchasing TIG welder and still plan to learn MuggyWeld. MuggyWeld tech told me that to ensure that I get best result with thick metal to use oxygen with MAPP or Acetylene. The propane will work ok with 1/8" or less. This was enough for me to say TIG would be better since I am gonna want to use thicker than 1/8" for fuel tank using .90" or 1/4".

And yeah! You know I am on good with local HD dealer and I get free parts from them here and there. Also, I get 20% discount with them. However I don't abuse it that I use the discount only when I need expensive stuff like new heads but not least expensive stuff like oil and filters. Don't want to wear the privilege if you get my mean.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:45 PM   #39
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1/4" for a tank???
What kind of tank, M1 Abrahms?
Most tanks, I.E. fuel, oil, water...are MUCH thinner like down in the 18 gauge range. Usually not more than 14 gauge in steel and about 0.090" in aluminum. So 1/4" is 0.250" and that makes 0.090" like 1/11".

Car bumpers were not even made out of 1/4" in the 1950s. I'm just sayin.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:17 PM   #40
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Hey you are asking where others got their rim from like JTH. You can get that 40 hole 17" about anywhere.

But Woody's Wheel Works and Buchannans will have the rim and the spokes you need, if not in stock, then quickly made up.

I have bought a wheel from Woody's before and he is an inmate here on ADV and really cool. A well respected vendor and poster here.

Buchannans is also has a really good reputation in the motorcycle world and hot rod world. My buddy had the make him some custom 60 spoke SS twisted wheels for his Softail. Nice pieces, but WAY outta my price range on those wheels anyway.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:20 PM   #41
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Buchanans has just the rim in many widths from 2.5" up to 4.25" in 17" x 40 hole

http://www.buchananspokes.net/produc...minum_rims.asp
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:33 AM   #42
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KellyMac,

I want to thank you very much for providing information on aluminum thickness and the rim. I'll send Woody an email and let him know that few of ADVrider recommended his business and go from there. It does look like you may be right that 1/8" thickness look like it is sufficient enough for my fuel tank project.

Again, thanks! Much appreciated!!
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #43
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Ive seen similar aluminum tank thicknesses ~ from .047" to .09" thick. Never thicker though. The bigger the tank, the more weight from fuel it needs to support. Its good to benchmark against existing tanks if you can find the info.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:01 PM   #44
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Not a problem WAWC.
I hope you know I was kidding about the M1 Abrahms comment..

As to the 1/8" tank material, I still think that is considerably overkill.
Remember, whenever you add bends or curves in metal it makes it stiffer. That is why a car hood, doors, fender...all have some bends in them. If there was a flat hood panel it would just wobble and flex like it were made of cardboard. There is usally what is called "body lines" in all metal panels.
Here is a 15 gallon fuel cell that is flat aluminum and it is only 0.100" thick:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-2161a

My thinking here is that if that LARGE flat side of that tank can hold fuel, to a RACE car spec and be only made out of 0.100" aluminum, I would say a motorcycle tank with some bends curves shaped into it could be MUCH thinner and be very safe and strong.

I know the newer fuel injected Suzuki RMZ450 tanks are aluminum and I don't think they are more than 0.050" thick aluminum and they hold up to MX and SX crashes.

JTH is spot on with the 0.047"- 0.090" maximum.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:36 AM   #45
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What's the difference between 17" X 3.50 vs 17" X 4.25 for the sportster? I'm trying to decide on that and I like Woody's price vs few others so am gonna go with Woody's.

Thanks!
-Ken
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