ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-20-2012, 04:31 PM   #1
backdrifter OP
Wannabe rider
 
backdrifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Oddometer: 1,363
Airhead front wheel hub trouble: need advice

I'm rebuilding a '73 R60/5. I recently rebuilt the wheels and when I threw them back together, I found some play in the front wheel. I disassembled the wheels again and found play between the bearing outer races and the hub. I hadn't noticed this during assembly. I had taken the hubs to an auto machine shop to have the bearing races pressed out. I now know that the hubs needed to be heated before the races were removed. I think the inner bore of the hub was damaged and is too large for the bearing races now.

The question is, what can I do about this? The hub has been powder coated and laced to the wheel - so I'd much rather not replace the hub.

Is it possible to bore out the ends of the hub to accept a slightly larger bearing OD with the same ID and thickness?

Is it possible to machine out the hub entirely and install a sleeve?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
__________________
"We are very good at preparing to live, but not very good at living."
-Thich Nhat Hanh

1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
backdrifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 04:51 PM   #2
Jon-Lars
Jon-Lars
 
Jon-Lars's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Beverly
Oddometer: 537
Is the spacer in place? Did you re-shim it when you replaced the bearings?
__________________
Cheers, Jon-Lars Sorenson
Beverly, WA
http://www.facebook.com/BMWR90S
Jon-Lars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 04:57 PM   #3
backdrifter OP
Wannabe rider
 
backdrifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Oddometer: 1,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon-Lars View Post
Is the spacer in place? Did you re-shim it when you replaced the bearings?
Sorry, I'm bad at the BMW wheel lingo. I believe all spacers are in place and correct. I did the rear the same and it is fine. By re-shim, do you mean change the wedding band thickness? No, I did not.

When I remove the 5 bolt end cover and then place the axle through the hub and push it up and down, I can see the outer race moving in the bore.

When I shake the mounted wheel side to side there is just a small "click" of movement, but it is definitely there.
__________________
"We are very good at preparing to live, but not very good at living."
-Thich Nhat Hanh

1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
backdrifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 05:11 PM   #4
Big Bamboo
Aircooled & Sunbaked
 
Big Bamboo's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Big Island of Hawaii
Oddometer: 2,672
Unfortunately, you have a "spun" hub. If it's really loose, you can try and find some long feeler gauges and use one of them as a shim (old VW trick) I've also heard of a guy who used a sharp punch to make a series of marks all around the bore surface. He claims it's still holding strong after many miles... Either of these "fixes" will just be temporary until you find another hub.
Big Bamboo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 06:09 PM   #5
backdrifter OP
Wannabe rider
 
backdrifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Oddometer: 1,363
Thanks Big Bamboo. You're becoming quite the helper on my build!

Well, thats certainly not what I wanted to hear, but at least I know. I've read some other threads and I think I'll try the center punch method combined with some Loctite 609. If that doesn't work, I found the thread below showing than Woody's Wheel Works may be able to offer a repair.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...highlight=Spun
__________________
"We are very good at preparing to live, but not very good at living."
-Thich Nhat Hanh

1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
backdrifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 06:18 PM   #6
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 8,025
There is info in the link I'm giving you. This is a guy in Oz and I have his email address but I don't know him;

https://www.dropbox.com/s/whal457wil...hub_sleeve.doc

There is a sleeve shown that should be what is needed.
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 06:22 PM   #7
pommie john
Beastly Adventurer
 
pommie john's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Brisvegas, Australia
Oddometer: 1,338
I had the same thing happen to my rear hub. The outer races had spun in the hub and were loose.

I found a guy here id Brisbane who had lathe big enough to take a whole wheel so I didn't have to un lace the rim.
he bored it all out and installed a steel sleeve.
Cost a couple of hundred dollars about ten years ago.
__________________
The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt.
Bertrand Russell
pommie john is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 06:26 PM   #8
Houseoffubar
fine beer sampler
 
Houseoffubar's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Bothell, Washington
Oddometer: 1,758
A half thousandths or so can be made up with a little red loctite, to tighten the race in the hub.
__________________
1978 R100/7 Build thread 1915 Boardtrack racer replica (Electric Powered) Lots of bicycles
Hemp: The strongest natural fiber in the world, and the most nutritious plant on earth.....why is this illegal again?
Houseoffubar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 06:35 PM   #9
M37cdn
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 39
Minty flavored green loctite is best for press fit repairs also known as 640 sleeve retainer
After you set the bearing race in with that stuff you are FOR SURE going to need heat to ever get it out again
M37cdn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 06:43 PM   #10
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
Airhead Wrangler's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,285
Buy a roll of shim stock and try to make it tight again.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PRE...im-Stock-3L432
__________________
R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
Airhead Wrangler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 07:07 PM   #11
backdrifter OP
Wannabe rider
 
backdrifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Oddometer: 1,363
I love this site. Thanks for all of the replies. First thing I'll do tomorrow is take a feeler gauge to the gaps between the races and the bore and try to figure out exactly how much I'm dealing with, and then come up with a plan from there. So far I really like the center punch and loctite idea.
__________________
"We are very good at preparing to live, but not very good at living."
-Thich Nhat Hanh

1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
backdrifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 09:35 PM   #12
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 7,755
One of the reasons this is a touchy fix, is the bearing needs to be centered so it's concentric with the brake drum. A pulsing brake could be the result - and we all know the problems /5s have with grabby brakes first stop when they're damp!

pommie john's solution is the best, and the first I'd heard of anyone fixing one of these spun bearings.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2012, 11:29 PM   #13
bmweuro
Mad Scientist
 
bmweuro's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Chico, California
Oddometer: 3,313
If you just re-assembled the front hub the bearing is not spun and you do not need to do any hammering or shimming. Simply take the bearings out and find something that is a couple thousands smaller than the bearing race and tap the race inward to make sure the races are seated all the way down. I use an old bearing race I ground down on the out side. Once the races are fully seated your wobble will be gone.
__________________
BOXER Metal
BMW Biker Scum
BMW Mad Scientist!
VBMWMO #7770, BMW MOA #48694 & Airhead BMW Club #600
bmweuro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 06:56 AM   #14
backdrifter OP
Wannabe rider
 
backdrifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Oddometer: 1,363
Thanks bmweuro. I'll try tapping the outer bearing race in a bit further to see if that's the issue. I don't think it is though, and I don't think I was clear on what I think happened to the hub. The last bearing wasn't spun, but I think the machine shop did the equivalent to the hub.

Basically, I brought the hub in and asked them to press the bearing races out. My fault - I should have known that the hubs needed to be heated. When I got the hubs back, one looked like it had been honed or cleaned up on the inside. I now suspect they damaged the bore removing the race and then cleaned it up, but while doing so, they increased the bore by too much. It looks like I got lucky with the rear hub, as the same thing did not happen there.

So, while the bearings never "spun", I'm in the same situation. I installed the entire stack at temperature (put the hubs in my oven and pulled them out at 210F). As I said, when I put the axle through the wheel and move it up and down, I can see the outer race moving in the bore. Not good. Later today I'll go out to the garage and try some more. I'll first try tapping the race further in. If that doesn't work, I'll use a feeler gauge to determine what kind of a gap I'm dealing with, and then will go from there.

Thanks to all!
__________________
"We are very good at preparing to live, but not very good at living."
-Thich Nhat Hanh

1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166

backdrifter screwed with this post 11-21-2012 at 09:00 AM
backdrifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 08:29 AM   #15
bmweuro
Mad Scientist
 
bmweuro's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Chico, California
Oddometer: 3,313
I guess I missed the part about the race loose in the hub. I'm assuming when you installed the pack that it was slipped onto the axle with a piece of pipe make up the difference in axle length and the washer and nut torqued down?
__________________
BOXER Metal
BMW Biker Scum
BMW Mad Scientist!
VBMWMO #7770, BMW MOA #48694 & Airhead BMW Club #600
bmweuro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 06:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014