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Old 11-21-2012, 11:03 PM   #1
Bluethumb OP
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Location: Texas Hill Country
Oddometer: 124
Help removing ST - G/S exhaust.

I've spent hours this afternoon wiggling, tugging, pushing, prying, and cursing the exhaust on my R80ST but could not remove it. I was successful in removing the muffler, the header pipes are loose in the heads and the collector box is loose. But I can't seem to work the header pipes out of the heads. I can slide them out about 3/4 of the way. The bends in the exhaust where they go ino the collector box hit the frame as I try to slide everything forward. I can't seem to work the collector box free from the exhaust, also because of the angle of the pipes as they go into the Collector. Clearly I'm missing something here, there's got to be a better way.

Is there a trick to this that I'm missing?

Thanks
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:30 PM   #2
Mark Manley
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When I bought my R80G/S from its orginal owner the pipes were solid in the collector box and the only way I could get them off was with a hacksaw, they were rusted through anyway and in need of replacement, depending how bad they are it might be your only option.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:39 AM   #3
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Not enough information....
unless you list the curses you've used we won't be able to suggest swear words that you haven't tried yet.


my G/S exhaust is custom and doesn't suffer these problems so I've got nothing specific to add.
Penetrating oil, dead blow hammers, long blocks of wood, some sort of improvised slide hammer... these things tend to escalate pretty quickly for me. If I was in your position there would probably be blood and broken parts involved by now, so I think your doing well.
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:00 AM   #4
Rucksta
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Remove the muffler and rear wheel.
Bash the collector box backwards with a rubber mallet.
Perseverance and patience is required.

Angle the blows to favour one side.
Left is good if the riser for the muffler is solid it makes a good target.
Once one side is out you can remove the remaining header from the exhaust port with the junction box attached .
You can now address the stuborn side off the bike and use twisting to advantage.

I took 3/8" off the rear end of the right header to make it just that bit easier to get off.
No reason not to do the left instead of or as well.
A previous junction box was a bit dodgy on the left and wouldn't take much more bashing.

Annual (or more often if the oportunity arises) removal of the exhaust system is part of my schedule.
The longer it stays on the harder it is to get off.
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Old 11-22-2012, 07:54 AM   #5
bgoodsoil
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I HATE the stock exhaust system. You're right about the angle of the headers as they go into the collector. My advice: do some cutting and welding and move the union to the flat section. It takes less work to reweld that crossover than it takes to remove it.

That being said, I've found grabbing the header at the front with both hands and wrenching that thing back and forth as hard as I can while pulling forward works the best. Every now and then smack the crossover back towards the rear wheel. This is assuming you sprayed PB Blaster into the unions. When you put it back together throw a bunch of anti seize on the joints if you don't have time to reweld it.
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:24 AM   #6
Airhead Wrangler
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I like "strap-hammering" them out. Tie some sort of strap to the header just outside the exhaust port and tie the other end to a hammer just below the head. Now swing the hammer away from the head and let the strap pull the header out. Varying sizes of hammers help here. PB blaster or other penetrating oil plus soak-in time also helps.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:22 PM   #7
Bluethumb OP
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Success

I finally managed to remove the exhaust pipes and collector box but only after removing the engine mounting bolts and lowering the motor down with a floor jack. This allowed me to get past the frame tabs for the centerstand, letting me to pull the exhaust off.

What a royal PIA.

So it's ok to shorten the ends of the exhaust pipes where they slide into the collector box?

What's the minimum? I don't want to end up with an exhaust leak.
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:38 PM   #8
mark1305
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Glad you got it. I had to chisel one of mine off. Although as long as everything slips and turns it is an exercise in moving the headers and/or collector in various directions util getting at least one header free. As the manuals say, assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

As far as how much to cut off a header, just make sure the end still projects in at least about 8-12mm in past the splits in the collector inlet pipe. A little more might be better. But its a compromise.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:51 AM   #9
bpeckm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
I like "strap-hammering" them out. Tie some sort of strap to the header just outside the exhaust port and tie the other end to a hammer just below the head. Now swing the hammer away from the head and let the strap pull the header out. Varying sizes of hammers help here. PB blaster or other penetrating oil plus soak-in time also helps.

Genius!

...man I do love the odd bits of collective wisdom here.....


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Old 11-28-2012, 10:05 AM   #10
bpeckm
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btw, one of the very bestest crud-kutting oils is something called KROIL.... hard to find, but worth it!





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Old 11-28-2012, 05:25 PM   #11
bpeckm
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...maybe you can see the po's solution to not being able to get the angles out of the collector: see those shiny silver beer-can-wraps just ahead of the jugs? .....Them's to tie the exhaust back together! Project for this winter will be to do a nice cleanup, re-weld, paint exhaust system, and lotsa bits and pieces.... ymmm....



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