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Old 12-30-2008, 05:18 PM   #1
been saved OP
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Eek Need the Carb gurus to SAVE me!!

I have been stymied by my Daughters 2001 Dr200. This little bike has always run great, Slow but like a tractor. Here is the story

A) been running it without an airbox lid since a high altitude ride where the lid got "lost"

B) all of a sudden bike started barely running and battery was not holding a charge.

C) Changed battery but bike stumbles and is not right

D) cleaned carb (lots of gunk) and it stumbles till throttle is over about 1/4 then it runs fine, idles fine also.

E) Drilled out mixture screw and cleaned this passage also with compressed air

F) been playing with turns in and out with mixture screw but even at only TWO turns out it is blackening the plug and still stumbling horribly until it revs above 1/4 throttle. Correct me if I am wrong but "in" is leaner and "out" is richer, how in the world is it blackening the plug at two turns with no airbox lid???


I thought 6 turns would be good, but it is stumbling. I have been suprised by the black sparkplug at only TWO turns out. It will spin the tire once it is reving but NO bottom end. I did have one issue with cleaning, the pilot screw was sticking when I was removing it and after reinstalling the screw after the second cleaning I now have a pilot screw with NO flat head receptacle. Could this damaged pilot screw be allowing too much fuel into the "idle circut"? I assume the only way to get the screw out would be to use an easy out and then replace it.

Would like to get this sorted so the Daughter and I can get some riding/camping in prior to a planned COLO summer week long ride(OOOOHHHH YEA) she is 16 and progressing nicely as both a rider and a young lady.


What say you intrepid ADVers, I am a little low feeling on this as I also embarked on replacing the tiny front forks on my 91 DR650S with SWEET USD RM forks and hit a couple of unforseen snags with stem length and diameter (DRAT perse, as it were). I mean doggonit how hard can this little thumper be to work on!!!!
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by been saved
I have been stymied by my Daughters 2001 Dr200. This little bike has always run great, Slow but like a tractor. Here is the story

A) been running it without an airbox lid since a high altitude ride where the lid got "lost"
...
D) cleaned carb (lots of gunk) and it stumbles till throttle is over about 1/4 then it runs fine, idles fine also.

E) Drilled out mixture screw and cleaned this passage also with compressed air

F) been playing with turns in and out with mixture screw but even at only TWO turns out it is blackening the plug and still stumbling horribly until it revs above 1/4 throttle. Correct me if I am wrong but "in" is leaner and "out" is richer, how in the world is it blackening the plug at two turns with no airbox lid???
Well, I ain't a guru, but I have some thoughts for ya. Bout everyone says that the little DRs are more sensitive than the 350s and 650s to any changes in the fuel system. The first "change" was losing the airbox lid. What has happened to the air filter since then?

When you cleaned the carb, did you take it all apart? Did you clean the primary jet (aka pilot jet)? What you're describing is the primary circuit: from idle up to 1/4 throttle.

Does turning the mixture screw in or out change the way the bike runs at idle? If so, good. If not, you have the wrong primary jet or it's dirty.

Betcha Jesse at Kientech has a replacement carb for sale. If not, maybe something like this
TM28 on ebaymotors
I think you probably have a BST Mikuni right now.

However, before buying a new one, I'd look at the primary jet. Also Jesse sells the Jet Kit for DR200


Hope this helps at least some. If not, it was a simple case of the blind leading the blind again.
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:45 PM   #3
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladeforger
Well, I ain't a guru, but I have some thoughts for ya. Bout everyone says that the little DRs are more sensitive than the 350s and 650s to any changes in the fuel system. The first "change" was losing the airbox lid. What has happened to the air filter since then?

A) Air filter not as bad as you would think, been running that way for about 1.5 years.

When you cleaned the carb, did you take it all apart? Did you clean the primary jet (aka pilot jet)? What you're describing is the primary circuit: from idle up to 1/4 throttle.

B) Yes every thing came out, even had to drill out the brass plug the second cleaning to get the mixture screw out

Does turning the mixture screw in or out change the way the bike runs at idle? If so, good. If not, you have the wrong primary jet or it's dirty.

C) Yes if it is all the way in it will not even start, backed out 2 - 8 turns and it will idle but that stumble moves around a bit.

Betcha Jesse at Kientech has a replacement carb for sale. If not, maybe something like this
TM28 on ebaymotors
I think you probably have a BST Mikuni right now.

D) yes it does have the BST, I actually also emailed Jesse tonight to try and get his thoughts.... we shall see.

However, before buying a new one, I'd look at the primary jet. Also Jesse sells the Jet Kit for DR200

E) Jet Kit will probably be ordered since it has the extended fuel mixture screw.

Hope this helps at least some. If not, it was a simple case of the blind leading the blind again.

Thanks VERY Much all help and ideas are appreciated!!

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Old 12-30-2008, 08:42 PM   #4
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Your batteries not holding a charge? It stumbles till you rev it? Could it be a bad battery, reg/rec, stator or other charging issue?

Don't know specifically about this bike, but others I've had wouldn't run right with bad electrics.

Edit. reread amd saw that you changed batt, but does it run fine and change how it runs once the battery dies?
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobCWNC
Your batteries not holding a charge? It stumbles till you rev it? Could it be a bad battery, reg/rec, stator or other charging issue?

Don't know specifically about this bike, but others I've had wouldn't run right with bad electrics.

Edit. reread amd saw that you changed batt, but does it run fine and change how it runs once the battery dies?

No Battery is good and strong (110.00 worth of strong) it seems to be a fuel issue.
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:45 AM   #6
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If the you say that the carb had a bunch of gunk in it, did you check the petcock filter? Also check the choak plunger to make sure it is not held open by gunk.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:04 PM   #7
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by been saved
I have been stymied by my Daughters 2001 Dr200. This little bike has always run great, Slow but like a tractor. Here is the story

A) been running it without an airbox lid since a high altitude ride where the lid got "lost"

B) all of a sudden bike started barely running and battery was not holding a charge.

C) Changed battery but bike stumbles and is not right

D) cleaned carb (lots of gunk) and it stumbles till throttle is over about 1/4 then it runs fine, idles fine also.

E) Drilled out mixture screw and cleaned this passage also with compressed air

F) been playing with turns in and out with mixture screw but even at only TWO turns out it is blackening the plug and still stumbling horribly until it revs above 1/4 throttle. Correct me if I am wrong but "in" is leaner and "out" is richer, how in the world is it blackening the plug at two turns with no airbox lid???


I thought 6 turns would be good, but it is stumbling. I have been suprised by the black sparkplug at only TWO turns out. It will spin the tire once it is reving but NO bottom end. I did have one issue with cleaning, the pilot screw was sticking when I was removing it and after reinstalling the screw after the second cleaning I now have a pilot screw with NO flat head receptacle. Could this damaged pilot screw be allowing too much fuel into the "idle circut"? I assume the only way to get the screw out would be to use an easy out and then replace it.
The damaged jet may be an issue, but probably not unless you somehow opened it up when trying to clean it. It is screwed in all the way, right? As I recall the standard setting for the mixture screw is 1 1/2 turns. It should be quite sensitive to small changes, so 2 turns would still be way rich. If it will idle, try screwing the mixture screw in until the RPMs peak, the back it out maybe 1/16 of a turn. That should give you the best performance. I can't stress enough as to how clean the carb needs to be. The low speed jets, in particular, have tiny orfices that must be totally clean for it to run right. I think there is also a low speed air jet that will affect this whole deal, too. If your air cleaner is deteriorated, particles from that may be causing trouble as well.

Good luck and keep us posted with your results.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
The damaged jet may be an issue, but probably not unless you somehow opened it up when trying to clean it. It is screwed in all the way, right? As I recall the standard setting for the mixture screw is 1 1/2 turns. It should be quite sensitive to small changes, so 2 turns would still be way rich. If it will idle, try screwing the mixture screw in until the RPMs peak, the back it out maybe 1/16 of a turn. That should give you the best performance. I can't stress enough as to how clean the carb needs to be. The low speed jets, in particular, have tiny orfices that must be totally clean for it to run right. I think there is also a low speed air jet that will affect this whole deal, too. If your air cleaner is deteriorated, particles from that may be causing trouble as well.

Good luck and keep us posted with your results.
This may be the big issue, I think I need to start at about one turn and work into 1.5 - 1.75 turns I will try this tomorrow and if all else fails send it to Jesse at Kientech for a performance jet kit and the pipe mod (she and the wife are begging for an F650 but they gotta master the DR first)

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Old 12-31-2008, 05:38 PM   #9
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stumble

If the jets are undamaged, you should verify the float height is good. Float needles wear and will raise float height causing a rich running condition that you cannot fix with adjustments. Floats also may be sinking or not moving freely.
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:05 PM   #10
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If the jets are undamaged, you should verify the float height is good. Float needles wear and will raise float height causing a rich running condition that you cannot fix with adjustments. Floats also may be sinking or not moving freely.
1+
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:44 PM   #11
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Its real lean on the pilot jet with the lid removed..

I had a KLX300 do this after removing the air box lid. I had to rejet it so it would run right with the lid off..

Buy another lid or rejet it...
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo
1+

"Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the
skid demon! Press the brake foot as you roll around
the corners, and save the collapse and tie up."-
1962 Honda Motorcycle owner's manual

HAHAAH that is classic. Stupid grease mud.


Been wondering about the float, but wouldn't that cause the gas to overflow through the overflow line (or am I remembering a througback from my old CB)

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Old 01-01-2009, 07:22 AM   #13
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Look fr a pinched air breather line coming out of the top area of the carb.
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:26 AM   #14
Andyinhilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by been saved
"Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the
skid demon! Press the brake foot as you roll around
the corners, and save the collapse and tie up."-
1962 Honda Motorcycle owner's manual

HAHAAH that is classic. Stupid grease mud.


Been wondering about the float, but wouldn't that cause the gas to overflow through the overflow line (or am I remembering a througback from my old CB)

Been Saved
The float, if stuck can allow the fuel to overflow or not flow at all. If mis-adjusted, it can cause lean or rich conditions as well. As a suggestion, you might get a sheet of foam (like the air filter is made of) to put in place of the airbox cover. That could help with any issue caused by loss of the cover.

Watch the grease mud, nuke the skid demons, and have a good new year!
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:57 PM   #15
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Get the airbox lid back on again and then start setting up the carb
lid pt no 13740-42A00
or just sick a piece of alloy sheet over the hole and silicone it down
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