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Old 09-18-2007, 01:16 PM   #1
dieseldave24v OP
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Thumb DR650 valve adj. first service

DR 650 first service

So after leaving the dealertip with a price quote of 300.00 dollars for the first service I made my way to the parts counter for a filter and some oil. I put this together so everyone who does not know how to do this gets a clear picture of how easy it really is......

First thing I did was drain the old oil.




While the old oil was draining..."remember to hold the bike straight unitl it is done." I removed the filter housing cover with a ratchet and 10mm socket.



Once the cover was off I removed the old filter and instaled the new one. The open end goes towards the engine and the spring goes between the cover and the filter.



Instal the drain plug, but not to tight so it does not strip the soft aluminum threads. Add the oil. 2.4 qts


After starting and checking the oil level it was time to tacke the valve adjustment. With the tank, side panels and seat removed I was able to gain acsess to the valve covers.


The valve adjust ment is VERY simple. Remove the valve covers and the inspection plug on the side of the magneto cover.



The serivce manual says to turn the engine by removing the center plug an the mag cover and turning it with a socket. I choose to put the bike in 3rd gear and turn the engine that way. either one should work just fine. Remember to remove the spark plugs to make the engine easy to turn over. Ensure that the engine is on a compression stroke........you are looking for a line with a "T". align this symbol with the center of the hole.

Now you are ready to adjust the valves....Get a set of feeler guages and check the clearance between the bottom of the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem. Intake and exhaust can be done at the same time.



If adjustment is nescesarry rember to hold the adjuster while you tighten the jam nut or it could move with it.


Put the valve covers back on and install everything you removed. You are done! See how easy that was.

Next thing I did was lube the clutch cable and throttle cables. Tighted all the bolt on accordence with the service manual. The first service really is this easy. Took me about two hours and I was taking my time. hope this helps someone
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Old 09-18-2007, 01:22 PM   #2
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Thanks for taking the time to do this and post it.
Being simple and to the point showing newbies it is not rocket science.
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Old 09-18-2007, 01:25 PM   #3
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Thats what I was going for. I figured I couldnt sit around and let people pay 300.00 for somthing so easy. There are so many guys out there that are some what mechanically inclined. If you can change oil on your car then you can do this. And everyone is very welcome.....now send me the 300.00 dollars...LOL
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Old 09-18-2007, 01:39 PM   #4
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You need to make sure you're on the compression stroke and not the exhaust. This is obvious to most because on the exhaust both valves are open on valve overlap and there is no lash, but I've seen people loosen them on the wrong stroke and have a pretty noisy result. Just my $0.02
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Old 09-18-2007, 01:50 PM   #5
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The serivce manual says to turn the engine by removing the center plug an the mag cover and turning it with a socket. I choose to put the bike in 3rd gear and turn the engine that way. either one should work just fine. Remember to remove the spark plugs to make the engine easy to turn over. Ensure that the engine is on a compression stroke........you are looking for a line with a "T". align this symbol with the center of the hole.


Thats why I put it in there. I hope no one skip that step. If they do they should be able to tell as soon as they try to fire it up.
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Old 09-18-2007, 02:01 PM   #6
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Thanks for making the effort to take us through this Dave. I noticed that you cautioned to not over torque the oil plug but I think you should also caution to not over torque the oil filter cover bolts. Those little buggers have very tender theads. Great thread and again thanks!
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CaptTurbo screwed with this post 09-18-2007 at 05:09 PM
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Old 09-18-2007, 03:15 PM   #7
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Your right I should have put that...I guess it sliped my mind.
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:56 PM   #8
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Dave

Sorry, my point was the T will line up when you're 180 out. Someone may not realize this, thats all. Great info and pictures. Thanks
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Old 09-18-2007, 05:27 PM   #9
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Couple points:

I would do the valve adjustment prior to changing the oil, because if you let any schmeg into the top end you effectively filter it while warming the bike to drain the oil.

Also you should only do a valve adjustment on a cold motor. Running it right before doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

I've also found that if I can get the valves to "wiggle" a little when I'm in the right spot to adjust them.

IMHO
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Old 09-18-2007, 05:44 PM   #10
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Good write up. But yes you should do a valve adjust on a stone cold engine. I think the FSM for my Bandit recomended a 12hr overnight sit for all parts of the enigne to cool.

This is one thing I am going to miss VERY MUCH about the ol Bandit. Yeah it had 16valves but they were screw and locknut and the adjustment procedure was stone age simple and I'm glad I never paid someone to do it.

This whole shim over bucket stuff is for the birds seems to be a lot more complicated.


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Old 09-18-2007, 06:32 PM   #11
dieseldave24v OP
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Well I actually waited about 2 hours after I changed the oil. I felt that the engine was cool enough. It was cool to the touch so I figured that was good enough. If it is out of tollerence or starts ticking I will do it again. No big deal.
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Old 09-18-2007, 06:34 PM   #12
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Great post. I love the pictures
thanks, Sparky
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Old 09-18-2007, 06:41 PM   #13
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Sometimes there's a little play in the valve rocker arm. When you put the feeler gauge in to check one tappet clearance, the arm will shift a little and give you a false reading. So it's good to have two feeler gauges of the same thickness which you insert at once. Then adjust both valves while both gauges are inserted.

If you do remove the inspection plug to get at the end of the crank, great care must be taken to only very lightly tighten it back up when you close it back up. Or it'll be stuck.
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Old 09-18-2007, 07:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Sometimes there's a little play in the valve rocker arm. When you put the feeler gauge in to check one tappet clearance, the arm will shift a little and give you a false reading. So it's good to have two feeler gauges of the same thickness which you insert at once. Then adjust both valves while both gauges are inserted.

If you do remove the inspection plug to get at the end of the crank, great care must be taken to only very lightly tighten it back up when you close it back up. Or it'll be stuck.
Good post.

I just turn the rear tire to get the valves closed, not messing with the inspection thing.

A hollow socket and screw tool (valve adjustment tool et al) can make things easier after setting clearances, but I've yet to use the one I bought..

There's a loose rule of: 1 over will be tight and 2 over will not fit.
I've set the valves on an 1150 more times than I can count and found that it can actually be quicker using a guage that is 1 or 2 over rather than trying to get that 'perfect feel/drag' with the correct size gauge.

Whatever works, works...
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Old 09-18-2007, 11:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Rider
...There's a loose rule of: 1 over will be tight and 2 over will not fit.

I've set the valves on an 1150 more times than I can count and found that it can actually be quicker using a guage that is 1 or 2 over rather than trying to get that 'perfect feel/drag' with the correct size gauge.

Whatever works, works...
I've been adjusting valves since my VW beetle in college, and I never thought of that trick. Good post.
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