ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-23-2012, 06:44 AM   #1
bmwblake OP
upside down parker
 
bmwblake's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: nashville, tn
Oddometer: 3,278
Enduralast - how to test?

My generator light is on all the time. I've gotten some documents from Jodi at euromotoelectric but nothing specific to testing for a failure of the rectifier. I have a brand new battery. Voltage at rest is 12.9.

It seems the only point of failure is the rectifier. I'd like to gather some more info before ordering a 130 dollar part.

FYI, the bike is a 94 r100gs and the system has less than 15k miles at this point.
bmwblake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 06:55 AM   #2
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
Airhead Wrangler's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,385
Test voltage at the battery at idle. It should be in the 13s or low 14s. If not check the fuse between your reg/rec and your battery. Also check that the reg/rec is well grounded.
__________________
R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
Airhead Wrangler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 07:04 AM   #3
bmwblake OP
upside down parker
 
bmwblake's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: nashville, tn
Oddometer: 3,278
Voltage at idle is in the high 12 range. Fuse is good. All grounds have been checked and are tight.

One of the emails asked about voltage at the black wire. I'm guessing that's the wire coming off the regulator. What should the voltage be there?
bmwblake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 07:15 AM   #4
photomd
Studly Adventurer
 
photomd's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: The Land of Cotton (SC)
Oddometer: 696
When my R/R stopped working, my voltage would drop whenever the system was put under a load. I ride the airhead all winter and regularly see 14v with grips and gerbing turned on. When the R/R was going, it would drop to around 13.5v.

The R/R is nothing more than 2 or three diodes in a heat sink. I pulled the R/R and read how to use the diode setting on my multimeter. I *think* the endurolast is a two diode system. To test the diodes, put your probe on one yellow wire and the other on the read wire. Then reverse the leads. You should only show current flowing one way. When you reverse the leads, it should read infinity. Then put one lead on the other yellow lead and the other on the red lead again. Then reverse the leads. Results should be the same.

When one or both diodes are shot, they'll show current flowing both ways or infinity both ways. FWIW, when my endurolast R/R failed, one diode was infinite both ways. I hope that helps. Let us know what you find.
__________________
1979 V-1000SP
1988 R100RS
1996 R1100RSL
1998 CR250
photomd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 08:54 AM   #5
bmwblake OP
upside down parker
 
bmwblake's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: nashville, tn
Oddometer: 3,278
Thanks for the info. Exactly what I was looking for. I'll hopefully get a chance totedt it this evening.
bmwblake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 08:58 AM   #6
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
Airhead Wrangler's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,385
Quote:
Originally Posted by photomd View Post
The R/R is nothing more than 2 or three diodes in a heat sink.
Wow. I didn't realize that. I thought it was a solid state R/R. I didn't know it was just some diodes in there. If it's just a couple of burned out diodes, then you could easily fix the thing with some basic soldering skills. Good to know.

EDIT: Are you sure it uses diodes? Euro moto electrics says it's electronic (solid state). I've never opened one up though.
__________________
R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.

Airhead Wrangler screwed with this post 11-23-2012 at 09:04 AM
Airhead Wrangler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 09:52 AM   #7
DaveBall
Beastly Adventurer
 
DaveBall's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver Island
Oddometer: 1,160
Diodes are solid state. As to fixing the R/R, well, that could be a bit difficult as it is in a solid mass of epoxy. At least mine is.

I had issues with my Enduralast system shortly after I installed it, but the problem was some old wiring under the tank that had a partial break in it. Fixed that and been good for 3 years and 40,000 miles.
DaveBall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 10:03 AM   #8
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
Airhead Wrangler's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,385
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveBall View Post
Diodes are solid state.
Alright, so my electronic terminology isn't the best. By solid state, I meant something like an integrated circuit. Does it actually use diodes or is it more complicated than that?
__________________
R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
Airhead Wrangler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 10:28 AM   #9
Bill Harris
Confirmed Curmudgeon
 
Bill Harris's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 6,902
Are there schematics of the alternator system (especially the R&R) available? All I can recall seeing are block/pictorial diagrams.

--Bill
__________________
'73 R60/5 Toaster
Luddite. Not just a philosophy, a way of life...
Bill Harris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 01:55 PM   #10
photomd
Studly Adventurer
 
photomd's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: The Land of Cotton (SC)
Oddometer: 696
Ta Da!



Actually, I'm glad y'all thought about a picture. I posted that earlier post off the top of my head. I forgot about the diodes between the leads from the stator/rotator and ground. Do the same test I said earlier, but put your leads on one yellow wire and the black wire, then reverse it. Then check the other yellow wire and the black wire. Sorry about the oversight.
__________________
1979 V-1000SP
1988 R100RS
1996 R1100RSL
1998 CR250

photomd screwed with this post 11-23-2012 at 02:05 PM
photomd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 02:22 PM   #11
Bill Harris
Confirmed Curmudgeon
 
Bill Harris's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 6,902
Good, A basic three-phase bridge rectifier, and the regulator... hmm. Let me look at that some more.

--Bill
__________________
'73 R60/5 Toaster
Luddite. Not just a philosophy, a way of life...
Bill Harris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 06:56 PM   #12
georgesgiralt
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 102
Hello !
Using a plain voltmeter is enough you need to test an alternator and charging system.
Measure battery voltage.
Start the bike with everything correctly wired and plugged (all contacts set firmly, cleaned earth contact, etc... )
Run the bike above the level it takes to turn the gen light off, if there is one gen light, other wise check the voltmeter to see if the voltage reach above battery value when you accelerate.
Measure battery voltage. You should have more volts than previously measured. (and this should reach around 14,3 ~ 14,5 V depending on the regulator setting) If not, the whole system is not producing enough electrical energy to charge the battery (if your alternator use the original charging system, the brushes may be worn out, not making contact or the rotor is toast)
If the voltage goes around 15 to 16 V the regulator is toast. If the voltage measured with the voltmeter in alternating current position is above a very few millivolts the rectifier part is toast.
Then measure (in the alternating current position) the voltage of any 2 of the 3 wires coming out of the stator of the alternator. Write it.
Repeat the above for two other wires and note the voltage. Repeat one last time with the two remaining wires and compare voltages. If the three readings are the same all is well. If one is way up or under the two others, the stator is toast...
Hope this helps.
P.S. : try to make these tests with the headlight off then on. This way you will check for low and heavy load on the charging system. it is 3 minutes of your time...
georgesgiralt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 07:38 PM   #13
bereahorn
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Location: North Coast (Lake Erie)
Oddometer: 1,059
bereahorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 09:35 PM   #14
Donkey Hotey
De Jo Momma
 
Donkey Hotey's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: 20 Mule Team Trail (Palmdale, Ca)
Oddometer: 10,700
Quote:
Originally Posted by photomd View Post
When my R/R stopped working, my voltage would drop whenever the system was put under a load. I ride the airhead all winter and regularly see 14v with grips and gerbing turned on. When the R/R was going, it would drop to around 13.5v.

The R/R is nothing more than 2 or three diodes in a heat sink. I pulled the R/R and read how to use the diode setting on my multimeter. I *think* the endurolast is a two diode system. To test the diodes, put your probe on one yellow wire and the other on the read wire. Then reverse the leads. You should only show current flowing one way. When you reverse the leads, it should read infinity. Then put one lead on the other yellow lead and the other on the red lead again. Then reverse the leads. Results should be the same.

When one or both diodes are shot, they'll show current flowing both ways or infinity both ways. FWIW, when my endurolast R/R failed, one diode was infinite both ways. I hope that helps. Let us know what you find.
You do know that the Enduralast is a retrofit Ducati system and everything you typed above about it only having diodes is absolutely wrong?

The regulator-rectifier is just that: a regulator AND a rectifier. The system you described is the stock system and you don't have a combination unit. You have a diode board and a rectifier, in two different places.

Back to the original post: you don't need to have more than 12V at idle. With the lights on and high 12s, it sounds healthy. Does the voltage climb to 13.8-14.4V when you raise the revs to around 3K? If so, the system is fine.

There are ways to troubleshoot that system. Does anybody know how the idiot light works with the Enduralast conversion?
Donkey Hotey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 09:18 AM   #15
batoutoflahonda
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Easton Wa
Oddometer: 1,372
Take a look at this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595249

troubleshooting endurolast w/ manual.
__________________
It's eight and a half gallons of gas; and an engine. What more do you need?-- BMW R80G/S

Save lives. Legalize lane sharing.

Cow eyes don't glow.

batoutoflahonda screwed with this post 11-24-2012 at 10:07 AM
batoutoflahonda is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014