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12-01-2012, 07:43 AM
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#31 |
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Rides slow bike slow
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: New(er) Mexico
Oddometer: 9,778
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![]() I'm wearing a hazmat suit the next time I change fork oil...
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You couldn't hear a dump truck driving through a nitro glycerin plant!Badasses might screw with another badass. Nobody screws with a nut job. -- Plaka |
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12-01-2012, 09:24 AM
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#32 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2010
Location: San Luis Obispo - 58 229 & 1
Oddometer: 687
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Quote:
RIP Jim.
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Matt - SikMoto www.Facebook.com/SikMoto San Luis Obispo, CA |
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12-01-2012, 05:43 PM
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#33 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Los Gatos Mountains
Oddometer: 216
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Yep, he was a good dude.
Another thing to think about with this method. Bike is sitting in the garage. While sitting, all contaminents settle to the bottom. Someone sucks up the top 80% (and that is very doubtful) of fluid, it's simply removing the BEST fluid, and replacing it with some slightly better. All crap is still at the bottom. Every fluid change I've ever done doesn't get rid of the junk until the last ounce or so, which tells me this does nothing but let crap accumulate over the years. Not to mention taking out spring and changing/inspecting seals is a good time to look at all the internal parts.
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97 TL1000S 2010 690 EnduroR 2013 500 Exc 20+ years, 100k+ miles, 15 state's, 5 Countries, 3 years on asphault looking for the checkered flag, 7 dirt trying to stay on my minute. |
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12-02-2012, 12:50 AM
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#34 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Gold Coast
Oddometer: 2,001
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The crap sitting on the bottom is fine, it's settled and it's not going anywhere unless the bike is upside down and bouncing down the road (And if that case I'm not caring about the crap damping). Until that crud gets 'quite deep' it's better there than stirred through the mix by a half arsed attempt to get it out.
(And quite deep crud in the bottom is the same as smells like sewage, not arguing that a real clean there isn't needed). Use protection (for the sliders ) and frequent oil partial changes are good enough. It's not a race bike where I'd be dicking with the damping to set it up for a particular track.Not saying your method might not be 'better' but it's like changing engine oil more often than necessary. Yeah, in theory better, but in practice there more chance of making a mistake as well. (Now where's that asbestos suit). Pete |
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12-02-2012, 03:33 AM
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#35 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Durban, South Africa.
Oddometer: 1,296
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That's just rationalisation, to avoid taking the forks off. :)
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12-02-2012, 04:34 AM
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#36 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: West of Phoenix, Arizona
Oddometer: 8,693
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Forks should be disassembled the first time and cleaned well. After that, just drain and refill. Fork oil really has an easy life compared with engine/trans oils.
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US out of the UN, UN out of the US. |
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12-02-2012, 06:50 AM
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#37 |
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WFO for 41 years
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Kensington, NH USA
Oddometer: 4,015
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I still want to fart in the face of the engineer(s) who decided we no longer needed drain plugs in forks. A heavily festooned 860 lb. cruiser is just a crazy waste of my time to REMOVE the fork tubes, rather than simply draining.
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Too much is just barely enough..... 2007 Tiger 1050 2005 Royal Star Tour DeLuxe 1973 Yamaha TX750 1974 Norton 850 Commando Roadster |
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12-10-2012, 04:38 PM
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#38 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Adirondaks, NY
Oddometer: 300
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Wow, I thought it smelled like sewerage cause I kept pouring liquid poop into my forks after eating pizza and drinking beer all night. Crap always ended up with that greazy sheen the next day, figured it had to have some good lube component to it.
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12-10-2012, 06:41 PM
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#39 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: S. W. Mssouri
Oddometer: 4,600
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I knew a machine operator that got a nasty infection machine coolant. He may have been immune comprised in some way, but there may be critters that live in oil that can hurt you. So wear gloves and be careful.
Rod |
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12-10-2012, 09:45 PM
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#40 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Gold Coast
Oddometer: 2,001
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Quote:
That's why I came up with the lazy bastards workaround in the first place. Pete |
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12-11-2012, 09:50 PM
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#41 |
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Zoob
Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Main Street, Shedd, Oregon
Oddometer: 1,019
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I do a lot of suspension work. Most people don't think of suspension maintenance until the seals leak.
All that black stuff is usually aluminum oxide, you know the active part on black sandpaper? Works the same. I've seen a lot of forks that have the slider worn out and no new bushings or seals will ever fix it. Buying suspension parts is very expensive. Seals, oil, not so much, but a slider can run into the hundreds. The old damper rod forks could drain out most of the oil. The cartridge forks are impossible to drain without taking them down. The 'friction modifier' added to limited slip rear ends is fish oil. The smell from gear oil is sulfur.
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"Dad, can I get a motorcycle when I grow up?" "Son, you can't do both" |
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