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Old 11-21-2013, 01:15 PM   #31
Snowhite808 OP
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Whats up with these forks.

The forks have problems.
For what i can tell, the rebound needle springs are missing from both legs.
I tried to follow everithing else also by the book and find something out of the ordnung, but it seems that these are the only things missing. So tomorrow will order new ones with some o-seals for the needles.
Basically just took the forks totally apart and counted all the parts drawn on the diagram of the service book.
Makes me really angry/sad of my own failure to notice that problem the last time i took them apart. Needless to say - I fear that I might have lost the springs myself but the needles are made of soft material. Brass or similar - and I found no sign of them being surrounded by any springs. Could there ever be a possibility, that the factory forgot to install them in the first place? Donīt know and donīt blame this on anybody. Just need the parts now and new oil and proper assembly.

Spark plugs.
I bought a thin walled socket - was not thin enough apparently.
So friend lend me the original KTM special tool and mine went to the workshop to be grinded down to the special tool measurements.
Why not buy one? Well - I will not pay them excess of 20 eur to have a simple socket - when the one I got from the shop yesterday cost me 2 EUR.
Just want to have the tools my own too.
Alright - the plugs came out - in good shape and it appears that the A/F mix is totally spot on also. The endpipe has insert in it and the needles are in the 3rd from the top slot.
Here the usual new vs old pic of them. (noo, they did not need to be changed, but i like to be sure).


Brembo on the rear.
Well - the pads are toast. Should I guess they are still the original pads from brembo?? Maybe - toast they are and I need new ones.


I seem to missing something from the bottom of the caliper also
Looks like one of the clips, that tentioners the pads, is missing also.


Cleaned the caliper, the pistons and fluid reservoir and now just need to order parts.

Exhaust.
Installed the improved pipe back to the bike. Just a few bolts and little persuasion and it was done.


The new nose and the handlebars.
I bolted the handlebars back on and started routing the lines back.
Finally just ripped the bloody cables from the old rubbish heated grips off.
Cut the rest of the crap off and removed the operating unit.
I will be getting a new one anyway - so why bother if its on the way.


Well - tomorrow is a good day as any to write to santa - so the list is going to be long :)

Over out.
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:27 AM   #32
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Cool2 Nice quiet sunday.

Sunday.
A week before thanksgiving.
Bike is waiting for some parts to arrive on wednesday from Mattighofen and I had a chance to visit some other shops yesterday. Did not get much but proper ferodo brake pads for the rear brembo. Nice ones - they really seem to have a lot of metal in them, so I hope they brake well.

I cleaned and worked the rear shaft and the bearing seals.
Put the rear wheel back on and installed the brake pads.
With the new sprocket, the chain runs a little tight.
I turned the chain tightening regulators down a bout 5-7 mm and then it fits just snug. I suppose the trail of the bike is now shorter, so the bike should handle a little better also. Cleaned the chain and lubed it up properly and got it running nice and quiet. The new 17t front with rubber outer ring makes for a smooth ride I think.

Once the rear wheel was on, the bike was set on the center stand and it would tilt itself nice and quiet on the rear side.
It was now good to remove the trolley from underneath the bike and have a look at the undertray of it and let it bleed.
So out came the oil. Thick, brown, full of the "flakey" stuff, that it usually is.
I did the flow and the stickage test on fingers and must say- the oil was just fine. Of course not as good as the sample from brand new, but good enough, I think. I cleaned the oil screens and fillers and the little "ball" on the oil tank and checked the filter for any fluttering and water damage, nothing wrong. New oil filter and oil is needed. There is plenty of time for them, but to be sure, I think I put them in the "list". Probably will use the same oil - 10W-60 Liqui moly racing.
Also had some time on my hands, so pictures were taken and some will be shared with You guys/girls.

New vs old


Here the rebound needle, that seem to be missing the bloody spring from the bottom, so it gets stuck and is not interfearable.


The new pads in the caliper.


Artistic schmartistic pic of brembo.


Old oil.


Engine left side.


Engine right side.


The new "rally style" nose piece. Its pretty stiff and hopes are high, that it will be enough to have no more stupid head wabble.



Mitas - E09 dakar. After 5k km.
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:16 PM   #33
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Christmas in the garage!!!

Soo this is christmas,
and a happy new year....


;) There was a song or something similar like that.

Well, santa brought me and the bike some stuff that went into work right away.
I got a new, linkage mirror for the bike.



Not OEM quality part but fine enough and makes me street legal - so Iīm happy with it. Cost me 21 EUR and bits.

Then I was really missing the blow-off - valves on the front forks.
Basically - riding on the wabbly gravel roads and then some for 1000 miles and the forks stiffen up - because of the type they are, they pump air into the cartridge and that makes them harsh. Then one needs to bleed them from the little screws on top of them. I hate that. I forget to do it and have them stiffen up every longer ride and event and that just sucks.
Well - 16 eur later i have the small buggers.


just unscrew the original screws (5mm screw with a small o-ring) and replace them with the bleeder valves - no need to overtorque, they are soft material and so are the fork tops and there is a new o-ring with the valve.

Here is the fork top before:


Here the bleeder vs screw:


And here the little valve all installed:
PS! bare in mind - put the bike on the center stand and unload the forks for the swap.



I also got a pair of racing summer gloves and new gore-tex gloves from rev-it and some long socks for the Astars tech 8 boots and then moved on to some more delicate matter.
Namely - my suffering arse.

I already did a superb new seat for the bike once. It worked just fine - until the cushioning material let go and i felt the pain again.
This time - the material (special foam, made for sport mattrasses) was tested over the summer in an "enduro like shape" and the material held just fine. Just the shape and the overcoat (leather) was not exactly to my liking.
So I started with yet another touring seat concept. It got the same basic shape as the last time - slightly rised the height and narrowed the sides.
The cowling effect is more pronounced this time and it should support a little more. Hope it is not a bitch to climb aboard and off.








Suppose i should hope that new year will be a good year to ride :)
Maybe Iīll get some more done still this year, but i doubt it.
Have a nice one everybody and may the new one be adventoures and full of orange color!
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:15 AM   #34
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New parts and improvements

Hello-hello.

Tons of stuff to do and many parts to make/change/improve/develop and so on.

First things first - i got my new frame and bike registered and a numberplate on it installed.

A ton of tires were ordered and arrived. 3 sets of E09 dakar for the racing team and 1 special set for me to get some testing done on the C19 enduro tires. (supposedly the strongest stone/gravel enduro tires that mitas makes) - well see, how the ktm will eat them.
Here is the stack of them.


Then, the new brake pads and fluids installed, I thought Iīd add some carrot flavor to the brembo calipers and painted the signs.
Fits just right. At least to me.


Then there is the constant head wabble and the softness of the nose piece of the 950 adv. It actually involves all the ktm-s that have a bigger nose piece and the light section hanging from it (including fairing and such).
Basically what You have is a piece of aluminium plate that is welded on 2 tubes, that are located to close together. This causes the nose to be soft and prone to brake and bend and wabble under road vibrations. Also makes the gps loose and unreadable on bad roads and the connectors to come loose etc... We welded the "rally style" rods to the nose piece to give it more rigidness and now it was the time for the gps undermount to be strengthened. Just welded a stiffening rod to the mount (at the moment carring the telephone/gps bag - soon to be replaced for garmin montana or monterra).
So here it is, welded, painted, bolted through plastic and onto the metal mount with SS bolts.


Next, the wheels.
I was trying to get the big covers for the rims. It is something like thing polycarbonate cover for the rim sides and will protect them during offroad and tyre change. Sadly - the answer I got from the dealer was, that only for factory racers - sooo, no goody for me. Instead I settled for the usual rim stripes of KTM, they do at least the job of making the rims look a little more alive. Would like to paint them one day though..


More improvements.

Like to ride standing upp?
The big mx boots make u even taller?
Donīt reach the handlebars nice?
Need bar risers?
Sure, no biggie - uuuups!
So they cost more than 100 eur around here.
We decided to take matters into our own hands and developed a kit for these. Since at the moment, we have three bikes, then 3 of them were introduced. Kit involves new stronger and longer bolts for the pillars and 4 distance aluminium spacers (each 18mm thick and M10 opening).
Total rise - 32mm and backwards moved about 5mm. A lot more comfortable on the hands and back, whilst standing upp.




Then there is one more saddle.
The older S models had a sporty type of saddle. Basically mx type, where the seat is all one piece, with not much comfort nor support and the rear passanger would have the seat so much tilted all the time, that it would be impossible to stay in place and not run down to the rider.
Here is were I started.




And after measuring some butts and pieces - this is the progress in pics.









No more than 46 EUR worth of materials and 4 days of work later, this is the result and I hope the newly seated will be pleased.

Here is a little teaser of whats to come in near future...

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Old 05-09-2014, 08:40 AM   #35
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Rally screen and new tyres.

Hei-hei.

So it was a long time coming idea of ours, we needed a new screen for the bikes.
So clay mould was made and fiberglass nosepiece was born.
The shape and the size and the weight is to be recognised as "pretty gooood" but the function - well, thats another story. I must say - it is nice, that it protects the gps from debry and trees and such - but is in no way helping with rain or wind. So I donīt know, maybe it might work for shorter guys but Iīm exaxtly 6ft and have a pretty firm high seat - so nothing.
Here some pics of the stuff - used fiberglass, hand molding clay from kids store, the blue stuff is fiberfiller.








Then i switched the tires on the bike - just to save the E09 dakar-s for the trip and test out some more radical versions of Mitas - so front got the C17 and the rear got C05.
Now, to test out the bike, i took a little reroute on the way to my cottage and left the asphalt and took the small road to "shitmabautobrakealeagville"!

so here is what happened.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2cpw3uBu6E
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:11 AM   #36
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Ouch! Maybe time for some Doubletake mirrors?
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:21 AM   #37
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Reading all these posts in one sitting is a little surreal. It feels like I'm a 'Casino Royal' universe.
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:30 PM   #38
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Ouch! Maybe time for some Doubletake mirrors?
Donīt really use mirrors but i think about the long lever DT mirrors too - or at least one.

and Yes, it still is OUCH.
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:31 PM   #39
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Reading all these posts in one sitting is a little surreal. It feels like I'm a 'Casino Royal' universe.
Hmm - CR universe ?
Full of beautiful women and fast boats and some shaken martini?
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:47 PM   #40
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Hmm - CR universe ?
Full of beautiful women and fast boats and some shaken martini?
Now you got it!

BTW - HDB mirrors are great
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:05 AM   #41
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Bad behaviour and cleanups.

Hello,


First things first - how and why.

The bike started to act up last summer already a- little bit on startups and sometimes stalling for no apparent reason. (I searched for bad sidestand connectors and such, but nothing). Then this winter, I changed the frame of the bike and right on startup in the spring, it was really hard to get it going.
Many times the bike would also die from throttle blip. Now the stalling grew.
Every time out, it would stall during overrun once or twice or in some stupid situation somewhere. Now finally - 2 nights ago I could not start it no more.
i could hear the pump start a little, but since it was always slow on pumping I never minded. Then took all apart, cleaned carbs set TPS and everything else and still would not start - took the damn relays and cleaned all the connectors and still nothing.






Then took the pump out. It ran of a battery just fine. But connected to bike - nothing. The signal would come from bike, but the pump only makes one little "click" and thats all.

So - off to home from garage and all apart.

here is the old pump with burnt contacts. You can barely see, but the contact frame is also touching from the sides, not only the middle part - suppose one of the reasons, this not working.


I had previously done the capacitor mod to the pump - about 10k KM ago.


I know, it is not the best picture but -
here is the new lower contact mounted already and the pump to be tested with the original setup.

Basically what I did was - took the small screws out, take the top of the structure apart and You have a carcass of the lower contact in hand. Then drill the old contact out - 2.5mm drillbit will fit exact (material is soft, I assume copper of some kind). Then found a very small SS screw from my old computer box and installed this by welding (with led) and filed off the rest, that was sticking out on the lower side. Now, the new and improved contact is 2 the size of the old burnt one.
Took a very sharp and small file and worked the surface of the upper contact to be a little better also.

Then - went to the store, bought 1 - MOSFET trans, 2 resistors and payed 3eur exactly.

According to the scheme in the post 1 layed out the stuff and soldered all together. I is quite easy and quick. But - I new from the beginning, I did not want to make it open from top so no bolt installed to the mosfet, but heat dissipating insulator. IT IS A B***AHHH to fit it all together. If I had to do it again, i would do it smaller, a lot smaller.
Here a few pics :





Put it all together with some silicone grease and fiddle it up the belly of the beast and TESTRIDE - actually no.
But I did get to start her up and test the pump in action.
The primary pumpup is a-lot faster. If it was like tik-tik-tik-tik before - now it is more like PRRRRRRRRRRRRR - and softer and faster. Bike had no more popping on overrun, no more surging and I believe was also pulling a little better off the line.
I did test the system on table also - no more sparks and I could also witness no particular heat during 2 minutes of pumping.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:24 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowhite808 View Post
Hello,


First things first - how and why.

The bike started to act up last summer already a- little bit on startups and sometimes stalling for no apparent reason. (I searched for bad sidestand connectors and such, but nothing). Then this winter, I changed the frame of the bike and right on startup in the spring, it was really hard to get it going.
Many times the bike would also die from throttle blip. Now the stalling grew.
Every time out, it would stall during overrun once or twice or in some stupid situation somewhere. Now finally - 2 nights ago I could not start it no more.
i could hear the pump start a little, but since it was always slow on pumping I never minded. Then took all apart, cleaned carbs set TPS and everything else and still would not start - took the damn relays and cleaned all the connectors and still nothing.






Then took the pump out. It ran of a battery just fine. But connected to bike - nothing. The signal would come from bike, but the pump only makes one little "click" and thats all.

So - off to home from garage and all apart.

here is the old pump with burnt contacts. You can barely see, but the contact frame is also touching from the sides, not only the middle part - suppose one of the reasons, this not working.


I had previously done the capacitor mod to the pump - about 10k KM ago.


I know, it is not the best picture but -
here is the new lower contact mounted already and the pump to be tested with the original setup.

Basically what I did was - took the small screws out, take the top of the structure apart and You have a carcass of the lower contact in hand. Then drill the old contact out - 2.5mm drillbit will fit exact (material is soft, I assume copper of some kind). Then found a very small SS screw from my old computer box and installed this by welding (with led) and filed off the rest, that was sticking out on the lower side. Now, the new and improved contact is 2 the size of the old burnt one.
Took a very sharp and small file and worked the surface of the upper contact to be a little better also.

Then - went to the store, bought 1 - MOSFET trans, 2 resistors and payed 3eur exactly.

According to the scheme in the post 1 layed out the stuff and soldered all together. I is quite easy and quick. But - I new from the beginning, I did not want to make it open from top so no bolt installed to the mosfet, but heat dissipating insulator. IT IS A B***AHHH to fit it all together. If I had to do it again, i would do it smaller, a lot smaller.
Here a few pics :





Put it all together with some silicone grease and fiddle it up the belly of the beast and TESTRIDE - actually no.
But I did get to start her up and test the pump in action.
The primary pumpup is a-lot faster. If it was like tik-tik-tik-tik before - now it is more like PRRRRRRRRRRRRR - and softer and faster. Bike had no more popping on overrun, no more surging and I believe was also pulling a little better off the line.
I did test the system on table also - no more sparks and I could also witness no particular heat during 2 minutes of pumping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowhite808 View Post
Hellou!

Todays topic - the muffler. (silencer, endpipe, endtopf...).

But first things first - To answer Your question "GrenDesb" - the frame is being changed, because mine was having some - hmmm - legal issues.
(basically was an insurance writeoff and i used my friends numberplate for the summer - now also I have no idea of the state of the old frame, as to how straight it might be or not.) Well, the new frame is in great shape and I believe if I can, then in april it will be rolling officcially under my name.
Second question - the tank is finished - I used the ktm tank connector for the lower part and it was very nice. Not using it - well - because the aluminium tank is too weak and got cracks in it the first time I tested it. Sadly - need some other solution and at the moment a 5l external tank (jerrycan) will probably have to be enough. Iīm running on a very tight budget this winter, so we can plan our trip to Russia and Georgia and be ready for any trouble with the bikes and stuff. Hope this explaines whats up.

Now todays topic - the bikeīs silencer was leaking. Making funny noises and needed proper cleaning and repacking.
It is a light SS pipe from Djelcevic UK and I really like their products for the cost that they are. This is here, what I started with:


Just a matter of drilling out the rivets with a 4mm drillbit and pulling the end off of the pipe. The packing was considerably "blown" on the ending side of the pipe. Just pull the insert out and check for any other problems.



After getting it all apart, it needed some proper cleaning from the tar stains and some gunk that probably comes from chain or dirt or whatever flies around under there.
Then after cleaning and inspecting stuff I decided to use the "stockings" from work, that I have - they are used to insulate heat of the adheater exhaust and made of long fibre.
Just pulled the "stocking" over the pipe snugly and pulled the ends back and tightened them up with metallic fasteners.



Then it was just a matter of taking the insulating wool or material to be used again and I have always used the method, that i repack the muffler so, that none of the material goes to the same spot it was before. Getting it all back into the shell was a mot.... PITA but with pressing the insulation material from both sides equally and yanking it down finally made it. Nice and snug.
The only mufflers where the material has been sewn together or through, have been Remus and Sebring. Never seen them fail early either. Just sayin.
New rivets, little bit of engine sealant (also called engine silicone - capable withstanding more than 350 celsius) to insulate the endcap and voila.
Thats it for today.
How has this exhaust worked out?? Notice any difference on noise or heat?? Has it lasted ok?
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:43 AM   #43
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Exhaust

Hello,


the Delcevic exhaust was actually just fine before, I just wanted to make sure, it would be up to a long run. Now, I run it with the insert in. It is, lets say about 20 percent louder than the original pipes. If You take the insert out, it is pretty much unbearable. But the heat - no comparison to original. There is no cooking between legs and the pipes look normal even when running hard in the dark.
Reminder would be the glowing red pipes, when the original mufflers were on it before. I do believe, that the LC8 engine pop is very strong and it will kill the muffler by the end. I have seen some carbon tips and pipes into bits from running on the LC8.
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