ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > GSpot > GS Boxers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-14-2012, 03:52 PM   #1
otbmf OP
otbmf
 
otbmf's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: toronto, midtown
Oddometer: 68
1150GS - should you change hardware when installing rotors

Couple of good threads of late on swapping brake lines on 1150GS. I'm planning on replacing rotors and pads, and will look at the original lines as well.

On the rotors, does anyone have an opinion - is it required to change the screws, wave washers, and roll pins with the rotors? At a CDN dealer, that's well over $100 for the hardware...

As a side note, my personal economy is driving me to go with a set of Chinese sourced rotors ($260 for all three delivered). Be interesting to see how long they go w/out warping...

Many thanks for any feedback re hardware.

__________________
'07 BMW R1200GS ADV (spring 2014)
'78 Yamaha DT 125
'76 Honda CB 400/4 (red)
otbmf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 05:34 AM   #2
billdonna
Ex Coelis
 
billdonna's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Niagara, Canada
Oddometer: 883
Yeah, I would replace the hardware. Costs seem pretty high in Canada. Try Max BMW

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...9&rnd=08102012
__________________
I do not intend to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death
billdonna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 07:35 AM   #3
Jim Moore
Beastly Adventurer
 
Jim Moore's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Jax, FL
Oddometer: 12,384
I didn't, and I lived to tell the tale. Those bolts are not torqued particularly high.

As a note, I did install new pads.
__________________
Jim Moore
Jax, FL

Pay the lady, PirateJohn, you thieving piece of garbage.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
Jim Moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 08:46 AM   #4
otbmf OP
otbmf
 
otbmf's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: toronto, midtown
Oddometer: 68
thanks for the feedback

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback and the link. I like the bit about 'lived to tell the tale' - that's what I needed to hear :)

Cheers!
__________________
'07 BMW R1200GS ADV (spring 2014)
'78 Yamaha DT 125
'76 Honda CB 400/4 (red)
otbmf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 08:54 AM   #5
damurph
Cold Adventurer
 
damurph's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: The far east of the far east of North America
Oddometer: 1,260
I replaced mine when i installed new rotors because they had surface rust. Looked bad and i had already cleaned and painted them once. Put new ones on and within a couple of months....same problem.
A waste of money to try and keep a GSA looking respectable.
__________________
R1150 GSA, KLR650, K75s(x3), RD350, PS250 (Big Ruckus), R65, 990 Spyder
If I still had every dollar I spent on motorbikes I would be a richer man but a poorer person.
damurph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 09:01 AM   #6
GS Addict
Pepperfool
 
GS Addict's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
Oddometer: 3,347
Rotor bolts

The BMW OE Manual does not suggest it
The Max Fiche makes no note of it
I never have and had zero issues (I've done a few now)
Be sure to clean the threads, apply Loctite 243, and torque correctly - 24nm front and 21nm rear
When installing fronts, be sure they point in the right direction
__________________
Old enough to know better....
Young enough to try it again
GS Addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 09:04 AM   #7
GS Addict
Pepperfool
 
GS Addict's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
Oddometer: 3,347
[QUOTE=otbmf;20250665
As a side note, my personal economy is driving me to go with a set of Chinese sourced rotors ($260 for all three delivered). Be interesting to see how long they go w/out warping...
[/QUOTE]

Please keep us posted as to how well they perform - warping as well as rusting.
__________________
Old enough to know better....
Young enough to try it again
GS Addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 06:41 PM   #8
DRONE
Dog Chauffeur
 
DRONE's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 3,292
Did my front rotors about 12,000 miles ago and re-used everything. No problems. BTW, decided to go with some cool-looking rotors from TRW.

DRONE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 06:53 PM   #9
GS Addict
Pepperfool
 
GS Addict's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
Oddometer: 3,347
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Did my front rotors about 12,000 miles ago and re-used everything. No problems. BTW, decided to go with some cool-looking rotors from TRW.

Curious as to why your ABS sensor cable follows the speedo cable instead of going up the fork.....Did you re-route? Why?
__________________
Old enough to know better....
Young enough to try it again
GS Addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 08:45 PM   #10
DRONE
Dog Chauffeur
 
DRONE's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 3,292
PO had it routed that way. It normally goes up the fork?

PS--it's for looks only. No ABS modulator onboard haha.
DRONE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 09:05 PM   #11
GS Addict
Pepperfool
 
GS Addict's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
Oddometer: 3,347
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
PO had it routed that way. It normally goes up the fork?
Yes it does.
__________________
Old enough to know better....
Young enough to try it again
GS Addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 07:01 AM   #12
billdonna
Ex Coelis
 
billdonna's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Niagara, Canada
Oddometer: 883
Quote:
Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
The BMW OE Manual does not suggest it
The Max Fiche makes no note of it
I never have and had zero issues (I've done a few now)
Be sure to clean the threads, apply Loctite 243, and torque correctly - 24nm front and 21nm rear
When installing fronts, be sure they point in the right direction

Because brakes generate heat, wouldn`t Locktite be useless because heat is the release agent for Locktite?
Isn`t that why microencapsulted screws are used.
__________________
I do not intend to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death
billdonna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 07:19 AM   #13
mouthfulloflake
Not afraid
 
mouthfulloflake's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: N.W. Arkansas
Oddometer: 15,298
No.

you have to heat ( pretty hot) the bolts, then unscrew them to remove them.

in use the brakes get hot, all the screws MIGHT get to the release temp ( but I doubt it), but they dont all get unscrewed, then as they cool, they are stuck again.

locktite works well for these bolts.

to the Original poster.

\replace the wave washers, and bobbins if they show wear.
you can also hear the wear, they will clink when you first apply the brakes, and they will clink and jingle when hitting bumps. ( you can often shake and move the rotor by hand with the brakes UN applied if the mounting hard ware is worn)

they still work fine and are safe, but the movement will eventually wear the holes in the rotors oblong, and the rotors are not cheap.
__________________
In dog beers, I've only had one.
Charter member: T.O. club.
Tilt your head, not the taco.
mouthfulloflake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 08:17 AM   #14
GS Addict
Pepperfool
 
GS Addict's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
Oddometer: 3,347
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
Because brakes generate heat, wouldn`t Locktite be useless because heat is the release agent for Locktite?
Isn`t that why microencapsulted screws are used.
If you manage to conduct that much heat thru the screws and surrounding casting to release the loctite the rotors would be toast.
Remember also the bolts are torqued to spec.
__________________
Old enough to know better....
Young enough to try it again
GS Addict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2012, 03:55 PM   #15
otbmf OP
otbmf
 
otbmf's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: toronto, midtown
Oddometer: 68
good to hear

Hey all, thanks for the additional info.

fyi the final cost for new hardware was going to be $190 CDN w/taxes - the roll pins were just over $10 each, happy to not be needing that now...

DAMurph - sounds good, I'll give the old ones a quick polish and put them back in, checking for play like 'mouthfulloflake' suggested.

Drone, many thanks for posting - those rotors look way better then my eco ones (pics to come), do you mind if I ask what part number those were? Embarrassed to say TRW never came up in my rotor search, I focused on listings specific to the GS...

GS Addict for sure I'll post once I get some k and weather on them, I'm using cheapo pads this time around as well, I'll check for wear, noise and what not. I get a good mix of high speed highway, commuting, what passes for twists in ON, and some off road. We'll see how they fair (in keeping with the eco bit, they're paired with Shinko 705s - the non-radial kind)

Cheers!
__________________
'07 BMW R1200GS ADV (spring 2014)
'78 Yamaha DT 125
'76 Honda CB 400/4 (red)
otbmf is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014