ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-14-2012, 04:55 AM   #46
DirtyPoodle
Wannabe Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Redmond, WA
Oddometer: 5
12/12/12 - Santiago to Pelluhue

Roads

Drivers in Satiago (or Chile) are just crazy. I don't know why their cars have blinkers because they sure don't get used. Swerving into other peoples lanes is more then acceptable even for large trucks. With the close proximity of cars in Santiago it's a real nail biter getting out of town.

Ruete 5 here in Chile is a lot like what you'd expected in California, Oregon, or Washington; it's flat, fast and boring as snot. There are some aspects that keep it interesting. There are a lot of people who run across the highway on foot, bicycle and many other versions of transportation. In the US, if someone is on the side of the highway that means there's something wrong. So, it took me a while to not freak out when I see people dashing across 6 lanes. I did see little groups of police officers hanging out on the side of the highway. I'm not exactly sure what they do or how/when they stop people. Parts of Ruete 5 are painted with arrows running down the road. These arrows are spaced apart such that if you keep two arrows between you and the next car then you'll be following at a safe distance. I don't think it helps the Chileans; for them 3 to 4 feet is plenty of following space.

We got off Ruete 5 at San Javier and took the back roads south west down to Cauquenes. This road was fun after being on Ruete 5. It had a couple of hill climbs and the asphalt was in perfect shape. Construction started about 20 miles outside of Cauquenes. In construction zones, it's more then okay to send cars through pretty bad dirt and mud. So I'm glad I was on a dual sport.

After Cauquenes we headed almost due west to Pelluhue. The speed limits here were very slow (40 Km/H) and if you follow the speed limit you will get run over by trucks hauling cut wood. We feel in behind one of those trucks and went way faster then we should have. In fact, I'm not sure I could have gone faster down that road then the truck.

People

We stopped at Curico for food and gas. Like most place we get a lot of looks when we roll through with the bikes. While my ride companions were in a grocery store, I had a little girl and her mother come up to me; well, more the little girl. She was very excited about touching the bikes and I was getting a little worried that she'd burn her hand. After acting outing burning one's hand the mother caught on and warned her little child after which she starting calling every part of the bike caliente (hot in Spanish). Her mother repeatedly tried to move her daughter away from the bikes and her daughter didn't until she was done. She had an odd affinity for the license plates which she traced multiple times with her finger. While in the same lot a motorcycliest coming down the road saw the bikes and cut up over the sidewalk (which is okay) though a bunch pedestrians at a bus stop (which is also okay) to come talk with me. Through a painful series of poor Spanish phrases on my part I was able to tell him I was from the US (he guessed Argetina), the bikes were mades by Suzuki, the sizes of the engines and our final destination. He shook my hand twice and rode back across the sidewalk to continue his own travels.

DirtyPoodle screwed with this post 12-14-2012 at 06:01 AM
DirtyPoodle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 06:02 AM   #47
DirtyPoodle
Wannabe Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Redmond, WA
Oddometer: 5
What's the best way to upload pictures to this blog?

I've tried sky drive and flicker and both of them seem to have a lot of issues. What do you all recommend?
DirtyPoodle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 06:37 AM   #48
rockydog
just a guy
 
rockydog's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: okieland
Oddometer: 795
something like a free photobucket account, easy to use. Infanview is a free photo editing site, easy to resize and tweak pics. save ya some money for fuel....or expresso
__________________
Two lane roads and two bit towns

Rockydog woofs the Isles, British Isles
rockydog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2012, 09:30 AM   #49
huzar
Pastor of Muppets
 
huzar's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Bellevue, WA
Oddometer: 2,016
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyPoodle View Post
I've tried sky drive and flicker and both of them seem to have a lot of issues. What do you all recommend?
DirtyPoodle -- I've used Flickr with no issues on this site and many others. I click on any given picture detail page, then on the "Share" tab, and then select "Grab the HTML/BBCode" (make sure it is set to BBCode) and paste that into a post here. Works great.

A lot of people here also use SmugMug, 'cause Baldy owns both ADVRider and SmugMug.
huzar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 03:48 PM   #50
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
Day 2 on the road: We spent our first night on the road at an otherwise deserted campground about half a mile from the coastal city of Pellehue. We rode into town near dusk and low on fuel. MissO, our wonderful translator asked the gas station attendant (no self serve in Chile) about campsites. He promptly asked another customer, and after a few seconds, we were told to follow him. I get a little leery in situations like this, but he was driving a family truckster with Disney windows tint for the child seats in the back windows. Seems safe enough. We followed him south for a half mile or so, left at the only traffic light in town and continued about half a mile out of town and past one other “campground”. These ain’t no KOA’s, I’m telling you. Anyway, we pull down the road as indicated and we pull past a Rodeo/Bullfighting arena, I’m not sure which. We slowly pulled into a large open area that kind of looked like a campground. I slowly led in, stopped in the middle then noticed someone walking towards us from a house on the perimeter. MissO takes lead and starts negotiating and is told it costs 5 pesos per night, “Just 5 pesos?”, asks MissO. “Si’”, says Slingblade with rum breath. I offer a hundred peso coin. “No, no, no”, he says. “5,000 pesos”. Evidently in the more rural areas they often assume the thousand when referring to pesos. Ah, devaluation. Can’t complain much about $10 to camp for the night.

We make camp in the fading light. We had just donned our headlamps when Slingblade arrives with a light bulb. He had buried extension cords underground and supported them up trees to provide us with power. Not exactly code, but hey, it worked. He had also brought water sprinkler lines up trees nearby.

In the morning, we took a few pictures and packed up. Our goal was to head south along the coast. We were immediately found some incredible beaches. This area in Chili is known for having some world class surfing waves.

The roads in this area switch from incredible pavement with lots of twisties and long sweepers, to dirt trails. We want to stay of the highways as much as possible, but have heard some of the coastal routes might be unpassable. We were all giddy with the beautiful vista, great roads and perfect weather. We rolled into a nice little town and found a restaurant that we could park our bikes in front of the outside dining area. We ordered our food and took a few pics. A quiet voice from the only other occupied table asked “Would you like me to take a picture of you”. She took a few pictures and we started a conversation. Ayyia from Bulgaria and her boyfriend Leonard from Hamburg were slowly working there way south, too. They were students and were going to study the Mapuche people for their university. They were very entertaining to talk to.

We finished lunch and continued south. We rode about 20 miles when we came to a long flat area about half a mile from the beach. They dirt road turned to unpacked sand and gravel. It was really squirrely. Our bikes are shod with 50/50 road/dirt tires and were not up to the task of digging through this unpacked gravel. My first thoughts were “I wonder who is going to be the first to go down”. I kept quiet to not jinx anyone. “I’m down” calls MissO. The tail of her bike had gotten loose and high-sided her at about 35 mph’s. Dirt and I turned around. My first thought was to grab a camera, but I thought better of that. She righted her bike (with a little help). She was fine with the exception of a slightly tweaked wrist and a bruised ego. We put the bike back together as best we could, and decided that this ealy in the trip we probably don’t need to take unnecessary risks. We decided to leave the coastal route and take the dirt roads for this leg.

We arrived in the quaint town of Tome’. We had been going non-stop since a few days before leaving Seattle and decide to take the next day off to relax and do a little bike repair. MissO’s handlebars are askew and the front wheel and fender were mis-aligned. We pulled the handlebar risers and find that the risers are held to the triple tree with adjustable conical bushings. We straighten the handlebars, but then found that the front wheel was mis-aligned. The left fork axle hole trailed the right one. We loosened the lower fork brace and inserted a lever through the spokes and between the forks. Dirt sat on the bike to align the handlebars while I pried. The wheel, forks and fender all returned to dead center. We were very relieved. It was hard to even find much of a hardware store in Tome’, and we had fixed this issue without needing any parts.
Our hotel on the beach is very affordable and the town is quaint. We spent the rest of our second day there scouring the markets, gathering a few supplies and relaxing. Tome’ is a great little town.
Yesterday’s ride was uneventful. We had to do some slab, and the roads and views didn’t improve much until later in the day. We stopped in a little town and decided to eat at a little Paderia with outdoor dining out front. The pictures looked good on their sign. MissO asks the proprietress if we can sit out front and eat. “If you brought anything to eat you can”, she replies. The kitchen is closed. It is 5 o’clock. It seems that around here, all stores, regardless of what their sign says, are mini-markets that sell Coke and Fanta, candy and lottery tickets.
We continue and find a nice little lake to camp by. It is a large campground and full of escorted kids at end of the schoolyear daytrips. The place has a great vibe and the kids are having a blast. Three young ladies stroll over to MissO and ask if she would give them a ride around the campground. She says that she doesn’t want to haul passengers, but asks Poodle and I. We reluctantly agree. The first loop around the campground alerts the rest of the kids at the campground. We return to about 20 freshman girls a handleful of boys. They are all bouncing and waving their hands “Me-Me Me”.
nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 06:26 PM   #51
MissOrganized OP
Adventurer
 
MissOrganized's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Live in Seattle, riding in Chile and Argentina
Oddometer: 27
Miss O's Version of the last few days

I'm so glad that Nivs has posted his view on the last few days! Now it's my turn, although you can see that we're a few days behind. We're all three finding that the days go by amazing fast -- all of the sudden it's 8 p.m and we have to find a place to stay. Once we do, and get dinner, it's tough to want to find the time to sit down with a computer and the internet...if we have internet at all.

The same goes for posting pictures. We will get around to it but it's not our first priority right now, as you can imagine. We are trying to remember to at least blog every night or two so that when we do have Wi-Fi we have something accurate to post rather than a hodge-podge of memories. Pictures may have to come later but we are taking lots and keeping them backedup and organized.

Ok, here's my log of the last few days;

12.13.2012

Woke up in Pelluhue, stopped for lunch in Buchupureo, slept in Tale'

So I was the first to crash and I was super upset about it. Not because I was hurt (just a bruise on my hand and my ego) but because I dropped my bike, scratched my windshield and bent the frame to my panniers and messed up the alignment of the handlbars to the forks. Also, it just sucks that the girl has to crash first. AAH! Oh well. Such is life. Lucky for me Nivs and Poodle are very sweet and making sure I don't feel too badly about it -- but I do anyway. (I think it's already been said, but Poodle is my husband and I really want this trip to be his dream trip and I don't want to be the one who keeps it from being awesome!) Enough of that. Here's what happened.

I was riding along happy as could be on a dirt road. The scenery was beautiful. The ride was fun. But then the road quickly turned to loose gravel and the road got all soft and squishy. Down I went. It scared the bajeebies out of me but I guess it's not a bad thing because I wasn't hurt, I'll be more on the lookout for such changes in the road (And Nivs and Poodle are certain to radio back to me when they cross it as well.) and the bike is already put back together again -- except for the scratched windsheild.

Earlier in the day was super fun though. We left our camp site in Pelluhue and stayed on the coast. We road on pavement for about 15 miles and then it turned to a great dirt road for 10 miles. We wound around on these great roads along the coast and stopped in Buchupureo for a late lunch.

While eating lunch we started chatting with a couple the next table over. Her name was Ayya and she's from Bulgaria. His name was Leonard and he's from Germany. They are Univeristy students heading out to live with the Mapuche people for the next 6 months while they work on an Ethnography of the mapuche culture. They were really interesting to talk to and it was nice for Jeff and Neil to have a conversation in English with someone other than each other.

After we left Buchupureo we had some nice dirt roads for a while and utterly beautiful scenery-- but then we hit that gravel road and I crashed. You already know that story. From there we decided to find the next closest town where we might be lucky enough to get a hotel room and a shower. We road for another 20 miles or so and stopped in Tome' where we found a hotel room for around $50 right on the beach.

We decided to stay for two nights.




.
MissOrganized is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 06:50 PM   #52
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
Adv Grifter's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyPoodle View Post
I've tried sky drive and flicker and both of them seem to have a lot of issues. What do you all recommend?
I've tried both FlickR and Photobucket ... bad luck with both.

Much prefer Picasa (a Google product) ... but if you really want to help support the site you are posting on ... for FREE ... consider opening an account on Smug Mug, owned by the owner of ADV Rider. It's the best in the business ... not free, but the BEST.
Adv Grifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 06:52 PM   #53
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
Coffee here sure beats Starbucks. Here is our coffee host, Gia. You may think her uniform is ill fitting, but I can assure you that she adjusted it 3 or 4 times per minute, and it is perfectly positioned.

nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 07:08 PM   #54
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
We started Day 8 in Villarica at the Don Juan Hostel. It had been raining pretty well and we were cold. Setting camp sounded lousy. The hostel was excellent. The rooms were clean, warm and dry and under $20 U.S./ single.

We decided to have a down day, which to Poodle and O meant taking the side bags off our bikes and exploring around. We drove to see the huge local volcano, but in the rainy/foggy conditions was less than spectacular. We checked out a volcano/cave tour, but at $30/each decided it was not in the budget. I had lost one of my cold weather gloves, so with frozen hands, decided to separate and try to find some gloves in Punto. Poodle and O decided to ride out to the ski resort on the volcano. Just as I stopped in town, a guy on a mountain bike stopped to check me out.
Him: You ride that all the way down here?
Me: Nah, flew into Santiago.
Him: (disappointed) Still some nice riding around here. I rode a DR650 from here to Canada.
Me: (impressed) Nice, what did you do that for?
Him: a girl
Me: you an Ozzie?
Him: Nah, Kiwi.
Dave was a motorcycle nut and had lived in Punto for 4 years. He operates the Paradise Hostel off Colo Colo street and said we should drop by. I set out to find some gloves (success) and got on the radio to see if my mates could hear me. They could as they were pulling into town as I walked out of a store.

We grabbed some lunch and went to find Paradise. It was a nice hostel with a great commune vibe. His guests seemed mostly long term and to be working around the area as white water raft guides, climbing guides and such. He offered us a cup of tea. He told us about his motorcycle exploits around the area, suggested routes. His obviously well used and abused DRZ 400 supermoto sat right in the courtyard. He pointed at a shed and offered us a place to work on our bikes. “I really want to get more motorcycle people to stay here”. Rooms start around $16/night.

We hung out for a few hours planning routes and laughing. He had opened up his house just to chat with some moto-folk. He is a great guy with a great attitude. It was time to go back to our hostel. Dave walked us out. He was still eyeballing my DRZ, checking out the mods and farkles. “When you find out it is not worth it to ship it back you can sell it to me cheap” Me: “Maybe. We’ll see. Hey, would you sign my gas tank (as Poodle and MissO have been doing, as a souvenir).
“Viva’ la Vive’ and keep the hammer down”, he wrote. Life is to live and keep going fast. Good advice.

Dave and his girl, Imaldena.

nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 07:10 PM   #55
kwb210
who just arrived?
 
kwb210's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Washington, the state
Oddometer: 80
Which one is Gia?

Which one is Gia?

I was in Columbia in June on a motorcycle, looks like the Columbian women have some competition. That's a good thing btw...
__________________
1977 BMW R100/7
BMW R75/5 Toaster(s) and soon a 1974 R90/6 (multiple boxes)
1960 R50 project
kwb210 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 07:13 PM   #56
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
[QUOTE=kwb210;20288819]Which one is Gia?

The one in white boots and the black watch.
nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 07:32 PM   #57
rcroese
Haarlem Globetrotter
 
rcroese's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: GR Michigan
Oddometer: 22
Nice report on Villarrica and Pucón (rather than Punto, I suppose). Sorry to hear it is raining, which fortunately is a bit unusual this time of the year. Hope it clears up for you. There is an American guy in Pucón, Willie Hatcher, runs a tourism and lodging business.
rcroese is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 08:33 PM   #58
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
My bad, Pucon is correct. Thanks for keeping this accurate.
nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 10:02 AM   #59
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
We stopped 2 nights ago in San Carlos de Bariloche. It was a town that Miss O had spent some time in about 10 years ago. She looked forward to going back. When we arrived, we found a city that had just had a riot and that the federal government was sending in troops. We heard conflicting reports of the cause. Some said that an organized crime group had robbed a grocery store. Others claimed it had been started by some of the local laborers that were upset over low wages and didn’t have money for Christmas presents. Sadly, the city that Miss O remembered so fondly was gone. The city evidently has been in decline (not like Detroit declined, but not the city of its former beauty}. All of the shops were closed and boarded up. We were told (by the hotel staff) we would need to go straight to our rooms and leave early in the morning. It wasn’t that bad. We hung out in the lobby with some german friends we had met on the road. I had some beers. We shared some jokes. Walked down the street to buy some more beers after the hotel ran out. The city was re-booting. I guess that it is not that uncommon for stuff like this to happen around South America. I checked the American press and found no mention of it.

We left Bariloche yesterday morning. Chief Navigator Dirt had selected a route south through the Patagonia Mountains. The first part of the ride took us along unending lakes and beautiful roads. The second part had us riding along the most beautiful pass I have ever seen. This place is an order of magnitude greater than Glacier Park, Yellowstone, Yosemite, etc. The views of epic peaks from horizon to horizon just didn’t end. The roads were the most perfect motorcycle roads I have ever experienced. Tight technical switchbacks, long sweepers. It was sometimes nice to find a straightway so I could look at the views, as the roads mostly demanded all of my attention. I rode the Beartooth Pass last summer with my buddy Fast Eddie, and I have to apologize, mi amigo, this was at another level. Wish you were here.
nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 10:04 AM   #60
nivs
Rocket Surgeon
 
nivs's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bakken Basin
Oddometer: 42
nivs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014