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Old 12-02-2012, 09:20 PM   #1
mrt10x OP
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snapped a skid plate bolt

So the next saga in "how can Matt screw up the simplest maintenance." Went to remove my aftermarket skidplate yesterday to do an oil change, promptly snapped the right rear bolt off flush with the engine case. Tried to use a #1 EZ out to get the bolt out, drilled a decent hole, which is always a task when using an EZ out.. then promptly snapped the EZ out off in the bolt.

I guess I am looking for advice? Tried to go up to the next EZ out size, but of course no way to drill a decent guide hole for the new EZ out because the old one is in the way.

If I have to can someone weld a nut onto the engine casing? Magnesium case? I have no idea.

Mechanically inept at your service.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:34 PM   #2
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Take the bike to a good private machinist, typically an old semi retired master if you can find one or have someone recommend one. They typically enjoy a challenge and don't charge a lot.
At this point (from what you describe yourself as) anything you do will make matters worse.
Take some blankets with you as you will probably have to lay the bike on its side to work on it.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:36 PM   #3
ElMartillo
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Not-So-EZ-Outs

Wow, I feel for you. Exactly the reason why I don't attempt to use "EZ Outs" anymore.

Perhaps your best bet would be to apply penetrating oil and various amounts of heat in hopes of loosening and extracting the broken ez-out. Patience is everything. Depending on the location and diameter of the ez-out, I might even try to grind a slot in it with a cutting wheel on a die grinder to get a bite on it with a flat-head screwdriver.

Less likely for someone to successfully weld a nut on the case than taking it to someone who is an expert at extraction.

Oh, and a good reason to use anti-seize compound on most threads...

Good luck?
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:59 PM   #4
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In a real pinch like this, I've been able to weld a makeshift handle (can be anything) to whatever it is I was trying to remove.

In your case, can you weld a piece of bent rod to the broken bolt & then turn the rod until everything backs out?

I've also been able to tap counter-clockwise on a broken shaft which was embedded like yours is - with a screwdriver and a ball peen hammer. It's a painstakingly slow process, but will serve to "break" the bolt loose initially, which probably caused the head to shear in the first place.

Dan
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:33 AM   #5
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If in the end the original mounting tab is completely buggered, would it be possible to simply welt a steel nut right over the old mounting hole..that would allow me to still mount the bash plate ...there is plenty of room as normally there is a 3/4" rubber bumper in place.. I think I could get a nut welded, and still have room for a jury rigged bumper as well?
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:59 AM   #6
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If your engine block is non ferrous, welding a steel (ferrous) nut to it won't work.

Assuming your engine block is non-ferrous, you could possibly find a similar alloy nut to match the alloy of the block and perform the weld, but honestly I'd leave that as an absolute last resort if you really cannot back the sheared-off bolt shank out.

If you go to sell the bike ever, I doubt the new owner will want the extra nut welded to the engine case.

Dan
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:25 PM   #7
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If all else fails, you could get a Black Dog skidplate that doesn't use the rear mounting holes.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:27 PM   #8
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A good welder can weld a bolt to the stub still in your motor, which you may then be able to turn the broken bolt out. At the very least, the heat shock of welding might be helpful in this case.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemiiten View Post
If all else fails, you could get a Black Dog skidplate that doesn't use the rear mounting holes.
Well that is an interesting turn of events... i will research that and may name my first child after you

for the welding idea.. I do wonder how a welder would get access to the bolt remnant to weld.. While my bike has spent a lot of time on its side.. I havent really looked to see how accessible those bolts would be with the bike on its side. I have been spraying PB in there over the last couple of days.. maybe I should have started with that ... and I plan on discussing it with the dealer tomorrow when they open.

edit... well is Bemiiten a boy or a girls name?? seriously dude you just saved me a ton of stress... to be able to get out of this screw up for $350 bucks is a relief.. Still hope to save the current set up.. but that BD skidplate is a piece of art.

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mrt10x screwed with this post 12-03-2012 at 03:59 PM
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:57 PM   #10
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
Take the bike to a good private machinist, typically an old semi retired master if you can find one or have someone recommend one. They typically enjoy a challenge and don't charge a lot.
At this point (from what you describe yourself as) anything you do will make matters worse.
Take some blankets with you as you will probably have to lay the bike on its side to work on it.
Follow this good advice for a positive outcome. Otherwise, continue to post about further frustrating attempts to correct your error.

When you are in deep water slightly over your head, don't swim to deeper water. Call to be rescued by an expert swimmer (in this case, the sage machinist with the correct tools and experience) who knows those waters in which you now find yourself.

And, then send GS Addict a nice Christmas card.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
Follow this good advice for a positive outcome. Otherwise, continue to post about further frustrating attempts to correct your error.

When you are in deep water slightly over your head, don't swim to deeper water. Call to be rescued by an expert swimmer (in this case, the sage machinist with the correct tools and experience) who knows those waters in which you now find yourself.

And, then send GS Addict a nice Christmas card.
I agree.. and this is high on my list of to do's,,, being in the military doesnt exactly allow me to get to know an area real well.. so finding an "experienced machinist" is not exactly easy.. I already checked craigslist and came up with nothing. I will ask in my regional forum.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:32 PM   #12
def
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You might start here;

International Association Of Machinist Dist #170
(401) 943-8331
762 Atwood Ave
Cranston, RI 02920

Keep us posted and thank you for serving.

def

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Old 12-03-2012, 04:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
You might start here;

International Association Of Machinist Dist #170
(401) 943-8331
762 Atwood Ave
Cranston, RI 02920

Keep us posted and thank you for serving.

def

USN

CA-148
every day I get to discover how much I just dont know

Thanks Shipmate.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:49 PM   #14
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I have used a Dremel tool with a carbide or diamond burr ball, depending on how hard the material to be removed is, which worked well.

It just takes patience to nibble away at it. Then helicoil to repair threads.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:53 PM   #15
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+1 on the Helicoil if you extract the bolt. I had a similar situtation that I attempted to remedy as you did - but without snapping the EZ Out. I went to change my OEM skidplate with the Wunderlich Extreme 2 piece and snapped off the left rear bolt. I tried cutting a notch into it first to tap it out. Even with the rubber bushing to soften the blow, it probably compressed totally with the hit that it took and then abused the threads. I think the bolt simply would not back out because the plate took a direct hit just underneath that bolt damaging the threads into the casing. I drilled progressively larger holes (measured depth against the bolt length as to not drill too deep) and attempted extraction with larger EZ Outs (without success). I eventually reached the hole size necessary to cut new threads to insert a Helicoil that brought it back to the original size. I drilled patiently from underneath (bike on the centerstand) using a cordless drill with a hardened drill bit. This worked quite well. The bolt material seemed rather soft and it appeared that the old threads were somewhat fused to the casing once I could get a good look at the damage.

The new plate took similar abuse (the same route that damaged my OEM plate), and that rear casing repair held up perfectly - bolt extracts like new. Consider using anti-seize past on the bolts with decent washers and that should facilitate future removals. The Wunderlich attachs at six points and spreads the abuse using and inner and out plate. Any skidplate on the GS is basically a sacrificial part - the more damage that it takes, the less your casing will suffer.
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