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Old 04-06-2013, 01:01 PM   #16
T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot View Post
Have not tried it but OUTEX Tubless kit seems popular.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikKeVNBAmQQ
I wonder why that "tape" costs > $143 bucks? Must be something special.

My tube of 3M 5200 was $11.00 at Home Depot. Enough for two wheels.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:55 PM   #17
fbj913
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i will be sending mine to Woody's in a couple weeks. I'm going to have them do it and super lace.
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:06 AM   #18
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14k miles and 3 tire changes (I don't get a lot of miles out of a rear tire and I don't run then to the cord).

A little dirty but none the worse for wear....


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Old 04-13-2013, 11:59 AM   #19
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I personally would be leery of doing this.

The metal in the wheels will contract/expand due to temperature changes. The sealant is flexible but after 100's of cycles who knows?

The wheels are subject to some pretty high temperatures during the summer at high speeds. Will the sealant break down in those temperatures over a period of time?

Highway speeds must exert considerable centrifugal force to pull the sealant outward and away from the rim.. Just one small break in the bond might result in the whole strip being pulled from the wheel.

I have used this product in the past and it is terrific for it's intended use-sealing things on boats. But it was not formulated to use in this environment.

Just my .02
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:54 PM   #20
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Some riders don't ride in the rain. Some don't use "auto" oil in their bikes, and some follow the manufacturers' recommendations for break-in to the letter....others don't. Guess I'll be the test pilot on this one (wait a minute, oh yeah, thousands have successfully done it before me).

Definitely a choice you alone can make.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:13 PM   #21
bross
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Quote:
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Some riders don't ride in the rain. Some don't use "auto" oil in their bikes, and some follow the manufacturers' recommendations for break-in to the letter....others don't. Guess I'll be the test pilot on this one (wait a minute, oh yeah, thousands have successfully done it before me).

Definitely a choice you alone can make.
Geez, next you'll be running a car tire...
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:46 PM   #22
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Geez, next you'll be running a car tire...
If the edges were a little more rounded I probably would.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:36 AM   #23
cwadej
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Reving the dead.

I'll be doing this next week.

Here's my plan of attack.

Wheel cleaned with MPK, then isopropyl alcohol. MPK leaves a residue, alcohol removes it.

2 wraps of tape over spoke nipples. Not sure what tape yet.

Prep wheel with Dow p5200 adhesion promoter. Designed to make sealant stick better.

Top it all off with 3M AC720. I chose B2 due to the work life.

Wish me luck. I'll probably do the front as well.
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:59 AM   #24
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I haven't done this, but according to Woody, who has done a bunch, I wouldn't tape over the spoke nipples. Woody has a write up of how he does it somewhere here.
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Old 04-06-2014, 02:49 PM   #25
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Almost 31K miles and all is good.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-12-2014, 06:03 AM   #26
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I'm on my second set of K60 Scouts since the first set went 10,500 miles. A drawback being the stiff sidewalls and getting the rear tire on and off for flat repair if needed. I opted to do the 3M 5200 tubeless modification. I used the slow cure formula after applying small octagon shaped pieces of metal tape over the nipples. I fashioned a plastic plaster trowel to make a nice curved transition to spread the compound about 1/4" thick. The first coat took 1 week to dry. It seemed to thin as it dried so I did a second coat after trimming the spreader another 1/8 ". The second coat took another week to dry(I'm patient as that I have 2 other bikes to ride). Overall thickness is a little over 1/4". My sealer surface looks smoother than pictures I've seen of others. I live in New Mexico where it's dry and since the 5200 is a moisture cured product it might have been easier to apply. I had my Son slowly rotate the wheel as I spread it. The bike doesn't ride or handle any different and I have only added 1 to 2 lbs of air twice. Yes I prepped the wheel by sanding and cleaning it up with acetone.
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:31 PM   #27
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i used outex.jp seems good so far
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midpack View Post
I'm on my second set of K60 Scouts since the first set went 10,500 miles. A drawback being the stiff sidewalls and getting the rear tire on and off for flat repair if needed. I opted to do the 3M 5200 tubeless modification. I used the slow cure formula after applying small octagon shaped pieces of metal tape over the nipples. I fashioned a plastic plaster trowel to make a nice curved transition to spread the compound about 1/4" thick. The first coat took 1 week to dry. It seemed to thin as it dried so I did a second coat after trimming the spreader another 1/8 ". The second coat took another week to dry(I'm patient as that I have 2 other bikes to ride). Overall thickness is a little over 1/4". My sealer surface looks smoother than pictures I've seen of others. I live in New Mexico where it's dry and since the 5200 is a moisture cured product it might have been easier to apply. I had my Son slowly rotate the wheel as I spread it. The bike doesn't ride or handle any different and I have only added 1 to 2 lbs of air twice. Yes I prepped the wheel by sanding and cleaning it up with acetone.
I've been through 6 tire changes (I don't get too many miles on a rear tire) with the 3M 5200 seal and all is well- no additional air needed

Mine was one coat...and I'm not nearly as patient as you.

And panorton; that Outex looks like a pretty nice way to go.
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Old 04-13-2014, 04:26 PM   #29
St. Arbucks
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I cheated and took my rear wheel to Woody's. Great results.

$99 for the sealing, plus another 50 or so to straighten the wheel and tighten loose spokes.

Note; they would not do the front tire; only the rear. Said the front would not hold the bead. Then the tech added that most flats come in the rear anyway.

(Hope he's right.)
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