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12-04-2012, 03:49 PM
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#1 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Kanagawa, Japan
Oddometer: 473
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Winter starting...rough
This is the first winter for the 2008 R1200GSA...I don't recall the 1150 starting this rough with the same oil...(20-50 Dino, bike has 21k kilometers on it)
It's only been down to 0 C here recently (32F) and the first few seconds of idle are incredibly rough. This happened twice in the last two outings, only in the first early morning start of the day...oil level correct, just changed recently. I was going to wait until the next oil change to make the switch to synth... I'm assuming this is an oil viscosity issue...shall I change out the oil to a thinner visc... It's really not that cold here compared to many other folks on the forum...interested in hearing experience... |
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12-04-2012, 05:01 PM
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#2 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Toronto
Oddometer: 136
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I had 20W50 in the beginning of last winter. Same thing happened to me, the bike would cough and run rough at first.
Changed to 10 W40 synth and starts easy in 32 F and runs much better. I highly recommend you do the same for the winter. |
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12-04-2012, 09:50 PM
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#3 |
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Long Time Lurker
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Little Beirut, Oregon, USA
Oddometer: 32
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Yeah, mine is a little rough starting when cold, but it smooths out in about 5 seconds. I don't fret it.
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12-04-2012, 11:13 PM
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#4 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Kanagawa, Japan
Oddometer: 473
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Many thanks...sounds familiar...the thing is possessed for a few seconds...I guess I'll consider the swap to synth a bit sooner...
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12-05-2012, 06:12 AM
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#5 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Finnøy Island, near Stavanger, Norway
Oddometer: 255
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You can also use 5W50, this is suitable for both summer and winter. The 5 for easy starting in the winter and the 50 to ensure oil is thick enough in the winter
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12-05-2012, 06:20 AM
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#6 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: North TX Metromess
Oddometer: 709
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I was just wondering the same thing. I was going to do valves and a sync. I hate to lose 1/3 of the expensive syn oil life!
__________________
01/09 DRZ470SSW more bits than necesary 2005 R1200 GS AKA The Mothership 2003 Z1000 Nuclear Pumpkin (gone) 86 RG500WW (gone) Bikes are like women. What you think you want, and what you want, change after the first ride. |
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12-05-2012, 10:05 AM
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#7 |
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I have little to say
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12-05-2012, 10:07 AM
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#8 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: May 2002
Oddometer: 21,545
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you'll lose maybe a cup of oil when you pull the valve covers. If you're very careful, you can catch that oil in a very clean container and put it back in.
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12-05-2012, 10:24 AM
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#9 | |
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I have little to say
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Quote:
What oxygenate is in your fuel in Japan, MTBE or Ethanol? It makes a difference. |
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12-05-2012, 10:26 AM
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#10 |
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I have little to say
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12-05-2012, 10:45 AM
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#11 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 35
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This has nothing to do with synthetic vs conventional, it's the weight of your oil as others have said. Mine is really hard to start and will idle terrible for a couple minutes with 20/50 at temps below 50, I run 10w40 in the winter months and put the 20/50 back in for the summer months - save it in a container and reuse depending how many miles are on it, mixing these weights is perfectly fine.
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12-05-2012, 10:57 AM
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#12 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: North TX Metromess
Oddometer: 709
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Quote:
It's supposed to be below 0C here next week I'll see if the valve and throttle sync smoothes it out. If not then I'll go to different oil. Even at the price it isn't worth trying to store. Too big a PITA. So while building a manometer I pulled the vacuum cap on the RHS. The side towards the bike was split top to bottom and part way round. New cap it runs a bunch smoother.
__________________
01/09 DRZ470SSW more bits than necesary 2005 R1200 GS AKA The Mothership 2003 Z1000 Nuclear Pumpkin (gone) 86 RG500WW (gone) Bikes are like women. What you think you want, and what you want, change after the first ride. Plane Dr screwed with this post 12-05-2012 at 05:21 PM |
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