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Old 12-09-2012, 06:20 PM   #31
Motomedic
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I had the same exact issue with the front of my 950 a while back- used one of the extractors from Matco dave186 suggested. I found it to be the tool for the job- no drama, just removed the bolt like it was the proper wrench.

As a pro wrench, I have 5 or 6 different ways to remove broken/stripped/galled/buggered fasteners. No one tool works on every problem.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #32
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Left hand drill bit.

You can try one that fits tightly into the socket. Just keep going up size - either the head will come off, or the bolt out.

With the head off, center punch, and start with a small bit. Work your way up to a larger bit. Eventually it will catch and it will come right out.

Ezouts should just be called ezbreaks.

You can buy a cheap set of lefties at harbor freight. Best thing in the store.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:51 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
acording to last picture:

cut a notch at 7 o'clock. hit with small chisel pointing right. you only need to get 1/4 turn to loosen it.
YES! & the angle you hold the punch/chisel has to be precise to rotate the bolt head!!!!
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:55 AM   #34
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The chisel, best bolt removal trick I ever learned. Works as good now as it did back in the 70's or before.

Don't be afraid to try "tightening" the bolt also with the chisel or your homemade tool, that may be needed to break the bond,could clear the threads just enough to give some movement and then increase the movement going back & forth slowly. If you try to unscrew all at once,whatever is in them threads may bind and strip the threads. Don't assume there is nothing in them threads even from the factory, there may be slivers left from the threading process or previous mechanical work.

I am in a bit of a jam also with a rather large seized fastener, that one will need some "thermal shock". If you decide to go that way, here is what I just bought, cheap and pretty darn cold.

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Old 12-10-2012, 08:23 AM   #35
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Thanks for all the great ideas. Much appreciated.
There's no room to get a drill & drill bit in the space available unless I drop the engine. Been reluctant to do that but perhaps that's the best alternative in the long run.

Richard
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:48 AM   #36
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(Sorry I got my photos in the wrong order)

There appears from this photo to be plenty of clearance to use a Square EZ-Out to remove the bolt.



Grind the tip of the Square EZ-Out to where it just fits into the bolt head, tap the EZ-Out into the bolt head until it bottoms out, use a long type tap wrench to turn the EZ-Out.
Square EZ-Outs work much better than the twist type.
If the EZ-Out toques out of the bolt head grind a little more off and try again. The bolt will come out.


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Old 12-10-2012, 09:06 AM   #37
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I'd try using the hand-held impact driver. You could use a torx bit in a socket attached to the driver, the torx bit being long enough to clear obstructions so you can swing a hammer to the driver.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:14 AM   #38
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I personally would try the hammer and chisel to break it loose and get it out of there. Looks like you have plenty on bolt head to work with. Mike
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:27 AM   #39
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PB Blaster, Aerokroil or even WD-40. Use a small torch to force capillary action into the fastener joint to try to make things a bit more slippery with several heat cycles.
Clean the SHCS with acetone and see if you can maul up the inner side walls to increase the surface area. Re-clean and try the JB weld again. You have the option of loading the JB weld with aluminum shavings to try to increase the compressive strength. Another option is to do the same but, with shim stock and let JB fill some of the gaps. Maybe do both.
See if that works cold and then again after heating the aluminum head, not the cam block, to around 200F. Do it very quickly with a butane crack pipe torch. Much hotter and the JB will start to soften. Getting the upper half of the cam journal hot will increase the pre-load on the screw and likely make it harder to get out.
Using CRC Brakeleen or acetone to pre-chill the parts is also another option to augment the heat. Don't breathe the fumes.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:41 PM   #40
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Looks like there is room, why can't you get a small torch flame on the head of the bolt? Heat till all the oil is burnt off. Then quickly try the punch or chisel method.

I'm still liking the hand held impact method with shim stock wrapped around hex. You can use a universal joint with a hand held impact.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:19 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Looks like there is room, why can't you get a small torch flame on the head of the bolt? .
I've been looking at micro torches today that run on butane. Might work. Frame rails limit access
Thanks
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:20 PM   #42
Hootowl OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74C5 View Post
PB Blaster, Aerokroil or even WD-40. Use a small torch to force capillary action into the fastener joint to try to make things a bit more slippery with several heat cycles.
Clean the SHCS with acetone and see if you can maul up the inner side walls to increase the surface area. Re-clean and try the JB weld again. You have the option of loading the JB weld with aluminum shavings to try to increase the compressive strength. Another option is to do the same but, with shim stock and let JB fill some of the gaps. Maybe do both.
See if that works cold and then again after heating the aluminum head, not the cam block, to around 200F. Do it very quickly with a butane crack pipe torch. Much hotter and the JB will start to soften. Getting the upper half of the cam journal hot will increase the pre-load on the screw and likely make it harder to get out.
Using CRC Brakeleen or acetone to pre-chill the parts is also another option to augment the heat. Don't breathe the fumes.
Plenty of good ideas
Thanks
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:27 PM   #43
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How ya doing sir? I hope well.
Thanks. Just had my monthly blood test today, and started round 11 of chemo. So far it's working well, but it isn't a permanent cure. Nothing is except bone marrow/stem cell transplant, and for me that is a last ditch consideration (~50% survival rate, even with my brother being a perfect match). As long as I don't get ACL (nasty form of leukemia) I will avoid the transplant.

One of the very few minor side effects from the chemo is really weird. After day 2 (of 7 in a row) of the triple injections, I would almost always get some lower jaw pain that night. The specialist doc couldn't figure it out. I had him look it up on the 'net and sure enough he found it, that a very small % of patients taking this chemo report the jaw pain. Pain wasn't severe, and a couple mg. of Percocet took care of it.

Last round one of my injection nurses told me to take 2 Tums that evening. I did, and no pain at all. She was rewarded with a nice chocolate/raspberry cake from a real good bakery here. Tomorrow night will be the proof, to see if it was a fluke or if the Tums (calcium) really works. Besides being real smart, she is an absolute doll--married tho.

If I have no pain tomorrow night, I'm going to get her an incredibly good 7 layer cake--$25! Hmmm, maybe I'll take half.

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Old 12-10-2012, 04:33 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by 74C5 View Post
PB Blaster, Aerokroil or even WD-40.
Don't think so. The bolt is surrounded with oil, so corrosion should not be involved. Might be best to MIG weld something to the head and back it out. Unlike most US socket head cap screws (SHCS), some of the foreign ones are pretty soft--thus the rounded socket.

I'd replace them with at least metric grade 10.9, and 12.9 is even better. 12.9's are even harder and stronger than most US SHCSs.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:43 PM   #45
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you can screw around with all these other methods, or spend 30 seconds with a hammer and chisel. you can even cut the slot with the chisel. you don't even need a 1/4 turn. you don't need to be at an exact right angle to it - even a bit of an angle and downward, and enough to turn the head left just a bit.
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