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Old 12-11-2012, 04:21 PM   #91
barko1
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Originally Posted by SourKraut View Post
My F150 was much nicer to drive than the Silverado but it disintegrated before six years and 65K miles. The bottom line is that you cannot buy your way out of car problems any more. No matter what you get there's a good chance it is going to puke an expensive component the moment its warranty expires.
I bought a 97 F150 w/30k on it off Ebay and now it has 120.000 and have put in a starter and not much else. The 4.6 with 4x4 and a long bed is a dog in the mountains though.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:23 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Ragin Rabbi View Post
Oh, and it is impossible to keep the front end aligned. It eats tires, and we get the thing rotated religiously. Wheels aren't bent, camber and toe also go out quick. Maybe a fluke? But man it is getting on my nerves.
Have you put any front end parts into it such as control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, or strut mounts?
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:51 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
I bought a 97 F150 w/30k on it off Ebay and now it has 120.000 and have put in a starter and not much else. The 4.6 with 4x4 and a long bed is a dog in the mountains though.
You don't have rust issues out there. The body on my truck looked new but the undercarriage looked like a 50 year old steel fishing boat. Yeah, the 230 hp 4.6 is a little anemic if you tow or at high elevation.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:31 AM   #94
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I don't think it's fair to judge modern Ford trucks before 200,000 miles, either. The stretch from 200k to 350k miles is where we need to set the bar for how many problems they've given, not a mere 120k (rust belt rusting-through excluded).

My current truck was a rust-belt truck, so eventually (because I didn't replace them all at the same time even though I knew I should) all brake lines blew at ... inopportune times due to rust.

I'm one of the unlucky ones that needs to change a head gasket (at 155k miles) as well, but feel if I did so that I'd easily get 250k out of the motor. Still, that's a ton of headache and / or money that, for a used truck compared the the 4-bolt-mains Chevy V8's of the lat 1980s' and 1990's, shouldn't be an issue in this day and age. So... I'm not happy.

Ending up with the best build for the long-term (so to 350k miles, at least) is really a crap-shoot with any of the vehicles today. No prior experience by consumers, nor 'luck' on the build-quality of the maker, is any indicator of the chances one will buy a new vehicle that will last without a moderate to major issue before 250k miles. It's sad, but nearly all common builders are really trying to skimp where they can, and that can come back to bite us (like with my 1999 head gasket, or perhaps the blame lies in weaker TTY head bolts?).
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:27 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by Badge320 View Post
The best police vehicles I ever drove were GM's...the Tahoe and the late 80's to early 90's Caprice with the 350. You couldn't kill one of those..and we tried..

I've had a couple of GM's over the years. The worst POS of any vehicle I ever owned was a 1993 Z-28. The car was so bad GM bought it back (this was before the lemon law).

I'm driving a 2000 Corvette Z06. The car has the same shitty interior as my 1993 Camaro. The car only has 50,000 miles and has had quite a few electrical issues..including the dreaded steering lock malfunction which leaves you totally fucked and unable to move the car. (GM is aware of this problem and could give a shit)

The Ford Supercrew which is my primary vehicle has been rock solid. I've had great service from every Ford I have owned (2 F150's) (1 Ranger) (3 Mustang GT's).
Remember for ford fairmount.....I tossed one of those into reverse at 70....it just shook...slowed down then started backing up....that thing would not die no matter how hard I tried.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:36 AM   #96
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And a POS Saturn (a brand which the FEDS forced GM to drop) proves this how?

.
Are your sure

Next you will tell me that the feds forced Pontiac and Olds to be killed.....but what really killed olds was Saturn got all the news olds at the start.

You need to flash back to the early 90's and the "new car buying experence" that Saturn offered people. And it actually worked....look at the numbers....people bought the cars. And Satrun was about as independent as you could be in GM at the time....I know I worked at GM in the late 80's up to about 96 or so......now if you want to talk about the last few years of saturn...yup spot on....it was the same ole same ole....with some europe cars tossed in there with saturn stickers on them.

I am still greatly PO'ed that they killed off the Sky and Solstace....best car GM has made.....had made in a very long time.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:20 AM   #97
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I am still greatly PO'ed that they killed off the... Solstace....
The Solstice was one of the very best-looking GM cars I've ever seen, and certainly the most daring for quite some time. It signaled to me that maybe they were starting to get the right idea as far as concept & styling, and ignited a flicker of hope for the home team. Hell, it even redeemed GM for the Aztek.

In typical misguided Generally Moronic fashion, they killed it.
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:15 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Have you put any front end parts into it such as control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, or strut mounts?
No. There has been no work, other then trying to keep it in alignment done to the front. This has been an issue since we first got it, brand new. First alignment was done one month into ownership after I saw how bald the tires were getting. They did the wheel camber and all there at the Toyota dealer.

We are at the point where at oil changes we need the alignment done (hyperbole, barely). It is getting ridiculous.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:07 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
The Solstice was one of the very best-looking GM cars I've ever seen, and certainly the most daring for quite some time. It signaled to me that maybe they were starting to get the right idea as far as concept & styling, and ignited a flicker of hope for the home team. Hell, it even redeemed GM for the Aztek.

In typical misguided Generally Moronic fashion, they killed it.
I still can't believe they didn't give the Solstice/Sky to Chevrolet or Buick after Pontiac and Saturn were shuttered.

Kick-ass car!
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:34 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by Motornoggin View Post
My daughter's Camry is a total pile of crap. 142K miles and we've had to dump $1000 just so it won't randomly stall. Still can't trust it.

The blue interior has turned an odd shade of green in many areas as well as starting to disintegrate.

Not a huge GM fan any longer, but Toyota's aren't without problems either. I don't think I would buy either make at this point.

Also, getting 200k out of any car is doing pretty good. Wasn't too long ago that every car was scrap after 60-80k.



Uh, if its got a Blue interior it's gotta be at least 20 years old, right?


As for the OP, want a long lasting car? Get another Miata for the other foot
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:56 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by Ragin Rabbi View Post
No. There has been no work, other then trying to keep it in alignment done to the front. This has been an issue since we first got it, brand new. First alignment was done one month into ownership after I saw how bald the tires were getting. They did the wheel camber and all there at the Toyota dealer.

We are at the point where at oil changes we need the alignment done (hyperbole, barely). It is getting ridiculous.
If it won't hold, that tells me that something is worn, bent, or broken. Do the techs tell you what is out of spec and what they do to correct it? Also, is the rear alignment holding?

I know on the Gen 5 Camrys that the front lower control arm and strut designs were changed between '03 and '04. The guys on toyotanation said it was to weaken the link to lessen structural damage in a collision. I don't know what that does to parts longevity, though. Your Sienna may have a known problem that can be fixed that no one is telling you about. You might check over at toyotanation in the Sienna forum. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/27...ion-2004-2010/

Addendum:

Reading over at TN, I found a link to a TSB for updated alignment specs for your van:

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?odf5fyq5lya5ci2

It's not coming from Toyota's site, but it looks like the real deal. That won't help if the settings move around on you, though.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:02 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post

I'm one of the unlucky ones that needs to change a head gasket (at 155k miles) as well, but feel if I did so that I'd easily get 250k out of the motor.\
At least yours went 155k. My 1999 F-150 (5.4L) got head gaskets before the odometer had even rolled over 10,000 miles!
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:19 PM   #103
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I have an '02 S10 ZR2 pickup, and it has been a trooper in the year I've owned it: no lost-time breakdowns, no nasty surprises even though approximately six of those months it has been driven with the damage sustained from being assholed by a Peterbilt. The transfer case did give up on 4x4, but I think that had to do with not waiting long enough with the throttle after pushing the 4HI button on an icy parking lot. It wasn't a tough or expensive replacement.

Consequently, I really don't have much to bitch about as far as reliability goes, but I do have complaints about the lack of sense that went into (too) many aspects of its design/engineering. In fact, I am constantly amazed by the stupidity of it. Examples:

- A 4-wheel-drive system engineered such that when a switch on the transfer case fails, the entire vacuum system gets filled with ATF. When this gets filled up, it drips into the ashtray on certain model years.

- A throttle cable that cannot be adjusted for stretch, so after it gets stretched out, you cannot open the throttle all the way. The accepted solution is to crimp a split-shot fishing sinker or two on the cable at the pedal. Mine have since fallen off and the process of their installation in that cramped space is so hateful I refuse to do it again.

- This applies to S10 Blazers only AFAIK, but if you have to replace the blower motor resistor (as I did), you have to CUT it out of the heater housing. Same with the blower motor. What do you have to do to put the heater housing right after replacing these? Thank God I don't know.

- Oil cooler/filter hoses with aluminum crimps that-- wait for it-- EXPAND WHEN HEATED. This means they cover the underside of your truck with leaked oil and fuck up your transmission mounts.

- A cupholder that is ideally positioned to spill your drink when you shift into 5th gear. Good plan, guys.

These to me are ridiculous lapses of good sense, but what do I know? I'm no engineer.
oh...have you checked your rear diff cover lately? they are known to rust through DAMHIK

and I don't even live in a really snowy area
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:27 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by Badge320 View Post

I'm driving a 2000 Corvette Z06. The car has the same shitty interior as my 1993 Camaro. The car only has 50,000 miles and has had quite a few electrical issues..including the dreaded steering lock malfunction which leaves you totally fucked and unable to move the car. (GM is aware of this problem and could give a shit)
that's an easy one. Did my research online and fixed it with a bypass. You CAN unlock it when it happens. It's seems a bit brutal but there is a procedure. You simply yank it back and forth against the lock several times like you're trying to rip the wheel off. Then you hold steady and forceful pressure in the CW direction with one hand at 3 oclock while you turn the key. IT WORKS. Then you drive it home and put a bypass in it.

Wait until your traction control / ABS / active handling dies. That one's easy too but costs about $250.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:41 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by Yooper_Bob View Post
I

Got rid of that piece of junk, and made the mistake of buying another brand new GMC...this time a 2004 2500HD 4X4 crewcab. That was also in the shop numerous times the first year, and has been each year I have owned it.

Check engine light on all the time, steering wheel "clunk" (they pack the shaft full of grease to quiet it down...that lasts about a month), all of the door handles have fallen off, tie rod ends completely shot, parking brake system completely rusted away, body starting to rot, 4X4 only engages about 50% of the time, engine is a giant pile of rust....and this on a vehicle that is parked in a garage 100% of the time and only has 80K miles on it.

After the GM "bailout", I decided no more....just bought a 2011 Tundra crewmax, and I love it!

Anyone wanna buy a nice GMC 2500HD????

Including the tie rod ends, ball joints and the steering dampner your model truck has a total of 11 grease zerks within the front suspension area.

Did you ever grease them?

My 2000 Silverado has the original ball joints, tie rods, and steering dampner; they are tight like new. With 175,000 miles on them.

I greased the zerks twice a year though. My 2000 Silverado also has 11 zerks in the front suspension components.

I took my vehicle to the dealer once for an oil change and asked the ASE certified master tech how many zerks he greased. His answer was all of them (4 total) per the manual.

I did my own lube maintenance after that!


Does your GMC have the push button 4WD?

How much for the truck?
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