Southland Clutch

[craydds]

a few tools; I like the clutch centering tool, some say it is not needed, but I'll show it put to good use:


Clutch pack compressed into place:


Clutch centering tool:


How do you torque the clutch bolts and prevent the flywheel from spinning around?


Answer - use a long bar (screwdriver) as a torque arm against that CENTERING TOOL and the wrench (socket) and torque clutch bolts to 16 ft.lb.:


I did use new clutch bolts, and the clutch is ready for trans install:

[disston]

Stick a proper size screw driver thru the timing window, flat against a couple starter ring teeth. Careful not to damage the Aluminum hole of the timing window. Doesn't take a lot of force though and is harmless if done properly.

[Bill Harris]

Here is my clutch alignmnent tool and an example of the necessity for safety glasses:



Good practice you show of protecting the intakes with a stuffed rags. Things rarely jump in there, but can really wreak havoc if they do.

--Bill

[craydds]

Originally Posted by Bill Harris

Good practice you show of protecting the intakes with a stuffed rags. Things rarely jump in there, but can really wreak havoc if they do. --Bill

Usually have to worry about dirt and sand blowing around. It never snows down here, but it rained... once.

[craydds]

My place in Cloudcroft, NM; elevation - 8900 ft.

[craydds]

My house in Las Cruces, Christmas 2011 :

[Wirespokes]

Originally Posted by craydds

Answer - use a long bar (screwdriver) as a torque arm against that CENTERING TOOL and the wrench (socket) and torque clutch bolts to 16 ft.lb.:

I'd caution against torquing like that against the clutch hub. It's possible to bend it in relation to the plates so it's no longer perpendicular. It's one thing to be careful of when installing a car transmission - to not allow the weight of the transmission to sit on the splines or torque it. It's easily done and one must be very careful of avoiding that.

The engine block/bell housing area squeezes down pretty tight along the bottom and it's possible to wedge a big screwdriver at that point between the aluminum and a gear tooth to freeze the flywheel. There's a simple tool available for that purpose as well.

[craydds]

Originally Posted by Wirespokes

I'd caution against torquing like that against the clutch hub.

You are probably right, and I hesitated to post that for a moment. I was very cautious and made sure I did not put much force on the centering tool, and the torque on the clutch bolts is only 16 ft.lb. That being said, I know of safer ways to prevent the flywheel from turning, Charlie mentioned one in a post above. Maybe I'll make more pictures showing better technique.

[craydds]

Originally Posted by Wirespokes

I'd caution against torquing like that against the clutch hub.

Perhaps a safe and easy way to torque the clutch bolts; lay a bar across the frame rails, the wrench rests against it, and tighten each bolt. This stops the flywheel as the bolt is torqued. Move to the next bolt, allow the flywheel to rotate until the wrench is stopped against the bar.

[disston]

That might be better but I still don't like it. The torque wrench has a job to do. Why do you insist that it does more than that job? It's job is important and should not be taken lightly. Give the poor torque wrench a break and stick the damn screw driver in the timing window like every body else.

[craydds]

Lube splines with a light coat of Moly 60. I slide the clutch plate on an off a few times, wiping off any excess lube, until only a thin coat remains:


It is easier to put this together first, outside of the transmission, then install it later after the trans is bolted into place:


clutch arm will go on after the trans is in place:


Transmission on:


Tomorrow comes the driveshaft and all the other details:

[craydds]

Originally Posted by disston

That might be better but I still don't like it. The torque wrench has a job to do. Why do you insist that it does more than that job? It's job is important and should not be taken lightly. Give the poor torque wrench a break and stick the damn screw driver in the timing window like every body else.

Yes, and some people say that this affects the torque wrench "performance". By how much? 0.1%? One should use a torque wrench properly to prevent false "readings". You can hold a torque wrench "wrong" by hand and get a variation in torque application. I have done the "screwdriver in the timing window" technique with great success, it works. Thank you, disston. Presented above is an alternative that only takes one hand on the torque wrench, leaving the other hand free to hold a beer.

[Bill Harris]

At 14-16 ft/lbs and non-critical preloads, I wouldn't sweat the clutch cover bolt torques being a bit off. Flywheel bolts, con-rod bolts, cylinder head bolts, yes, the torque is critical.

Looking good.

--Bill

[Wirespokes]

Originally Posted by craydds

Clever idea! Why didn't I think of that??? (probably because the 'wedged screw driver' trick works fine. But I like this idea. And I agree - it couldn't make much difference on the torque readings. I think I haven't even used a torque wrench for those bolts.

[supershaft]

Stick a screwdriver in the timing hole like everybody else? I never do that. Is that how some of those holes get beat up?

I just one of my pry bars into the starter teeth and let the pry bar wedge up against the case. Works like a charm every time.

That above photo is bad torque wrench practice. It very well can effect the reading plus there is no need for it.