ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-31-2012, 11:42 AM   #91
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
clutch install

a few tools; I like the clutch centering tool, some say it is not needed, but I'll show it put to good use:


Clutch pack compressed into place:


Clutch centering tool:


How do you torque the clutch bolts and prevent the flywheel from spinning around?


Answer - use a long bar (screwdriver) as a torque arm against that CENTERING TOOL and the wrench (socket) and torque clutch bolts to 16 ft.lb.:


I did use new clutch bolts, and the clutch is ready for trans install:
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 11:51 AM   #92
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 8,973
Stick a proper size screw driver thru the timing window, flat against a couple starter ring teeth. Careful not to damage the Aluminum hole of the timing window. Doesn't take a lot of force though and is harmless if done properly.
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 01:34 PM   #93
Bill Harris
Confirmed Curmudgeon
 
Bill Harris's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 7,300
Here is my clutch alignmnent tool and an example of the necessity for safety glasses:



Good practice you show of protecting the intakes with a stuffed rags. Things rarely jump in there, but can really wreak havoc if they do.

--Bill
__________________
'73 R60/5 Toaster
Luddite. Not just a philosophy, a way of life...
Bill Harris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 02:03 PM   #94
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Good practice you show of protecting the intakes with a stuffed rags. Things rarely jump in there, but can really wreak havoc if they do. --Bill
Usually have to worry about dirt and sand blowing around. It never snows down here, but it rained... once.
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 02:14 PM   #95
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
My place in Cloudcroft, NM; elevation - 8900 ft.


__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S

craydds screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 02:22 PM Reason: pic
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 02:27 PM   #96
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
My house in Las Cruces, Christmas 2011 :
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 03:39 PM   #97
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 8,032
Quote:
Originally Posted by craydds View Post

Answer - use a long bar (screwdriver) as a torque arm against that CENTERING TOOL and the wrench (socket) and torque clutch bolts to 16 ft.lb.:

I'd caution against torquing like that against the clutch hub. It's possible to bend it in relation to the plates so it's no longer perpendicular. It's one thing to be careful of when installing a car transmission - to not allow the weight of the transmission to sit on the splines or torque it. It's easily done and one must be very careful of avoiding that.

The engine block/bell housing area squeezes down pretty tight along the bottom and it's possible to wedge a big screwdriver at that point between the aluminum and a gear tooth to freeze the flywheel. There's a simple tool available for that purpose as well.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2012, 04:00 PM   #98
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I'd caution against torquing like that against the clutch hub.
You are probably right, and I hesitated to post that for a moment. I was very cautious and made sure I did not put much force on the centering tool, and the torque on the clutch bolts is only 16 ft.lb. That being said, I know of safer ways to prevent the flywheel from turning, Charlie mentioned one in a post above. Maybe I'll make more pictures showing better technique.
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2013, 05:56 PM   #99
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
safe and easy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I'd caution against torquing like that against the clutch hub.
Perhaps a safe and easy way to torque the clutch bolts; lay a bar across the frame rails, the wrench rests against it, and tighten each bolt. This stops the flywheel as the bolt is torqued. Move to the next bolt, allow the flywheel to rotate until the wrench is stopped against the bar.
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2013, 06:09 PM   #100
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 8,973
That might be better but I still don't like it. The torque wrench has a job to do. Why do you insist that it does more than that job? It's job is important and should not be taken lightly. Give the poor torque wrench a break and stick the damn screw driver in the timing window like every body else.

__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2013, 06:31 PM   #101
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
trans install

Lube splines with a light coat of Moly 60. I slide the clutch plate on an off a few times, wiping off any excess lube, until only a thin coat remains:


It is easier to put this together first, outside of the transmission, then install it later after the trans is bolted into place:


clutch arm will go on after the trans is in place:


Transmission on:


Tomorrow comes the driveshaft and all the other details:
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2013, 06:45 PM   #102
craydds OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
craydds's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 1,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
That might be better but I still don't like it. The torque wrench has a job to do. Why do you insist that it does more than that job? It's job is important and should not be taken lightly. Give the poor torque wrench a break and stick the damn screw driver in the timing window like every body else.

Yes, and some people say that this affects the torque wrench "performance". By how much? 0.1%? One should use a torque wrench properly to prevent false "readings". You can hold a torque wrench "wrong" by hand and get a variation in torque application. I have done the "screwdriver in the timing window" technique with great success, it works. Thank you, disston. Presented above is an alternative that only takes one hand on the torque wrench, leaving the other hand free to hold a beer.
__________________
ABC #12947
'75 R90S
craydds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2013, 07:20 PM   #103
Bill Harris
Confirmed Curmudgeon
 
Bill Harris's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 7,300
At 14-16 ft/lbs and non-critical preloads, I wouldn't sweat the clutch cover bolt torques being a bit off. Flywheel bolts, con-rod bolts, cylinder head bolts, yes, the torque is critical.

Looking good.

--Bill
__________________
'73 R60/5 Toaster
Luddite. Not just a philosophy, a way of life...
Bill Harris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2013, 02:13 AM   #104
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 8,032
Quote:
Originally Posted by craydds View Post
Clever idea! Why didn't I think of that??? (probably because the 'wedged screw driver' trick works fine. But I like this idea. And I agree - it couldn't make much difference on the torque readings. I think I haven't even used a torque wrench for those bolts.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2013, 12:31 PM   #105
supershaft
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,830
Stick a screwdriver in the timing hole like everybody else? I never do that. Is that how some of those holes get beat up?

I just one of my pry bars into the starter teeth and let the pry bar wedge up against the case. Works like a charm every time.

That above photo is bad torque wrench practice. It very well can effect the reading plus there is no need for it.
supershaft is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014