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Old 01-02-2013, 12:24 PM   #106
craydds OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
That above photo is bad torque wrench practice. It very well can effect the reading...
You know we all use a similar "torque relief arm" when we torque the fork tube top nuts; keeps the forks straight after we have done your favorite Randy Glass fork alignment procedure . Very little affect on the torque wrench.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:39 PM   #107
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Ray,

I looked up the Randy Glass article about torquing the fork tops to make sure. He does not press his torque relief bar against the torque wrench. He has the relief bar pressing on the center nut and a stud of sorts he inserts into a top brace hole. Here is the article;

http://aatherton06.home.insightbb.co...chapter13.html

The measure of torque which we use to determine the amount of force holding together parts of our motorcycles is based on the amount of friction the parts encounter as they slide together. As a nut or bolt gets tighter it is generating more friction. It then takes more force to turn further because of the increased friction. There are other ways to do this but the use of common torque wrenches work for our purposes and are usually reasonably priced tools.

By having the flywheel locked by placing the screwdriver against the torque wrench as the flywheel tries to turn it will press harder. The harder these press together the more friction they will add to the final torque value. Adding friction at this point means the bolts are not as tight as intended.

It may not be much you think and I think it will so we can stop here. I hope that there aren't problems with these bolts coming loose in service.

I owe you a beer if you ever get to Washington, DC.

Charlie
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:36 PM   #108
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I suspect that the answer lies here:





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Old 01-02-2013, 07:08 PM   #109
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Hey Man! Don't spoil our fun! It is winter after all, and there's nothing better to do than argue about torque values, the quality (or lack there of) of oil, HP increase and junk high performance cams and how to recognize them. You can't just trot out some high level proof and expect that to be the end of it!
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #110
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Hey Man! Don't spoil our fun! It is winter after all, and there's nothing better to do than argue...

You can't just trot out some high level proof and expect that to be the end of it!
Just my two Quid. It's the 'Mercian way since we can't ride as the snows of winter cover this land. The swallow may fly south with the sun or the house martin or the plover may seek warmer climes in winter, yet these are not strangers to our land?

Been raining. Can't ride. :(

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Old 01-03-2013, 05:02 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I looked up the Randy Glass article about torquing the fork tops to make sure. He does not press his torque relief bar against the torque wrench. He has the relief bar pressing on the center nut and a stud of sorts he inserts into a top brace hole.
I stand corrected. I must concede that one should use a torque wrench correctly, without added external frictional factors, etc. Now, back to the oil thread.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:05 AM   #112
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I owe you a beer if you ever get to Washington, DC.
I hope you get to ride out to Nuevo Mexico. I'll buy you a shot of tequila.
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craydds screwed with this post 01-03-2013 at 08:33 AM Reason: NM
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #113
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Remember this, if it hurts real good, you are learning something useful.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:15 PM   #114
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Clutch adjustment

I adjust my clutch using these simple steps.
First, adjust the clutch cable length to 201 mm at the handlebar/clutch lever, in or out:


until this measures 201 mm from transmission case to cable barrel (edit - see posts below by supershaft and disston):


that is 201 mm, not 210 mm as some articles have suggested:


Jeff Trapp's clutch adjust tool is 201 mm for this reason, to use as a measuring gauge:


Second, set freeplay to 2 mm, loosen the locknut and adjust the bolt on the throwout arm, in or out:


to set clutch lever freeplay to 2 mm:


Trapp's handy tool has a 2 mm gauge on one end for this measurement:


Tighten the locknut and the clutch is adjusted correctly.

In summary:
1. Adjust the clutch cable at the handlebar to set a measurement of 201 mm between the cable barrel and transmission case.
2. Adjust the throwout bolt to set the clutch lever freeplay to 2 mm.
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craydds screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 11:38 AM Reason: 201 mm
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:46 PM   #115
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Great pictures and instruction.

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Old 01-06-2013, 08:14 PM   #116
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If anyone cares the 201mm measurement is from the tranny as shown to the cable pin, not the lever. It's a couple of mm if your counting. Plus that figure is for later models but I guess it still works on the earlier ones? I have never used it on the earlier models. I have only done it per the book. It might be the same deal???
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:38 PM   #117
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SS is correct. The measurement of 201 mm is from the rear face of the trans to the barrel on the end of the cable. This same measurement is used tho on all Airheads, 1970 onward. The procedure was first published by BMW in 1981 but the method was taught at BMW Tech School way before that.

The cables do not get lubricated. The barrel ends of the cables and pivot pin parts all get lubricated. I use ordinary wheel bearing grease. There are many other greases that will work. Make this a part of yearly out fitting, like in the Spring.

One wire tie on the right side frame down tube. Not too tight.

The swagged end of the cable at the handlebar lever end used to be round. It rotates or moves a tiny amount in operation. At some point in recent manufacture the swagged end was put on with a hexagonal die and may not be round. This will prevent the piece from rotating freely and these cables have been known to fail in less than a hundred miles. Check for the shape of the swagged end of the cable at the handlebar. If not round then file it so it is round and it fits loose enough to rotate.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:27 AM   #118
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swingarm

Swingarm install:


Tighten one side, adjust the other, back and forth to center the swingarm (outer locknut is loose or removed):


measure between swingarm and frame one both sides, adjust swingarm bolts in or out until both gaps are equal:


Preload the bearings, torque to 14 ft.lb. :


Back out the bolt, then set final torque to 8 ft.lb. :


Double check the gap; you may need to re-adust the bolts, then re-torque in two steps as stated above:


After final torque of swingarm bolts, torque the locknuts to 74 ft.lb. :


Grease the swingarm bearings, replace the outer caps, and it is DONE.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #119
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I don't recall that method ever being taught or being described in manuals for the earlier than '81 models? I could go look in some of my dad's service school books and see what they were teaching way back when.

I always mark the pin in order to make sure it doesn't move and tighten the preload setting while the lock nut is being tightened. Like steering head bearings, I think they handle better set on the tight side.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:30 PM   #120
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I always mark the pin in order to make sure it doesn't move and tighten the preload setting while the lock nut is being tightened.
Great idea. I will double-check mine this way.
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