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Old 12-13-2012, 08:08 PM   #1
Sidecar Jockey OP
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please help with my xt500 12 volt conversion

I just got a 1978 xt500. All of the electrical except magneto, points, and coil have been removed.

I want to convert it to 12 volts, without altering the stator. Then I will re wire the bike to have street legal lighting (headlight, tail light, brake light, turn signals).

I need a 12 volt regulator/rectifier combo with a one wire input (direct form stator) and a one wire output (12v regulated DC).

Will this work??

http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratto...tton+regulator

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #2
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yes. i used this one for $14:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Regulator.aspx



get that and a 20A circuit breaker. i ran a 12v halogen headlight & LED taillight with this setup. no rectifier or battery eliminator, but you wont need it. the LED will work on AC. only downside is dim light at idle.
no modifications to the stator.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:29 AM   #3
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Thanks plugeye! Very helpful.

The item you posted is just a regulator though, correct? I just regulates the AC current to 12v?

I was hoping to find a similar device that is both a regulator+rectifier.

I really wan to run turn signals, and regular automotive flashers only work with DC current. I do NOT want to run a battery though, just a small capacitor.

Does anyone know of a similar regulator+ rectifier?? I am not certain that the one i posted is also a rectifier...
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:01 AM   #4
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I think I answered my own question. "Normal' AC to DC rectifiers do not work on floating ground alternators, like the xt500 has, with only 1 'hot' wire coming off of it.

I have also found some flashers that claim to work on AC power... so I'm just going to buy the regulator you suggested and run the whole bike on AC current.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:07 AM   #5
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The one you posted is definitely not a rectifier/regulator. Those will have 4 wires (for single phase AC input) or 5 wires for 3-phase AC input.
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Old 11-27-2014, 06:40 AM   #6
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Very helpful thread!
I plan on using plugeye's drawing. Is there any reason that the yellow wire from the magneto can't be used in addition to the white wire? Either wired just like stock to power a 6 volt headlight, or converted to 12 volt by using a second 2-wire 12 volt regulator? Or would using the yellow wire just siphon off power from the white wire?
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:42 PM   #7
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Anybody?..........
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Old 11-28-2014, 06:06 PM   #8
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The chassis is the other side of the single phase in the XT's stock system. If you look at the coil under the FW one end of the windings is grounded.
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:45 AM   #9
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These people do a 12V conversion kit; http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages...lt_Conversions
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:01 AM   #10
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Save your money, that's an $8 Chinese scooter Reg/Rect and a $6 horn along with a conventional flasher unit. All those parts are available online from the scooter parts sites at about 1/3 that. price. The 12V output from the XT lighting coil will be such that you're going to want LEDs where ever possible which that flasher won't run without some extra work.
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Old 11-29-2014, 07:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DogBunny View Post
Very helpful thread!
I plan on using plugeye's drawing. Is there any reason that the yellow wire from the magneto can't be used in addition to the white wire? Either wired just like stock to power a 6 volt headlight, or converted to 12 volt by using a second 2-wire 12 volt regulator? Or would using the yellow wire just siphon off power from the white wire?
i believe the yellow is tapped from the coil to charge the battery, has less output than the white. i don't know if it would help or not.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:17 AM   #12
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Thanks for all of the replies.
For what it's worth, I initially tried to order the Rex Speed Shop kit from their UK site, thought I had bought it, and then got an email a couple of hours later saying my order was rejected. I answered their email saying just send me a PayPal invoice, they said sure, right away, that was several days ago, and I decided not to waste any more of my time with them and to figure it out myself.


In this simplified stock wiring diagram, you can see that the yellow wire is center-tapped off of the "Lighting Coil." I am going to convert the white wire to 12 volt just like in this drawing from plugeye:


So my question: is there anything to be gained by ALSO using the yellow wire. Or, would that just siphon off power from the white wire? I plan on no battery or capacitor, no flashers, LED brake/tail light, couple of LED gauge bulbs, horn, and a conventional 12V headlight that I will change to LED if I have to.
Thanks.

DogBunny screwed with this post 11-29-2014 at 09:25 AM
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Old 11-29-2014, 11:13 AM   #13
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the yellow wire is a lower voltage & is designed to just run the headlight. if you are switching everything up to 12v then no... the yellow won't help the system

I modded some of my old bikes by removing the chassis ground at the coil & running the wires to a RR unit. that gives full wave rectification instead of the half wave from a single diode.... more power. I know you said no battery, but if you drive in the city stop & go. a battery helps stabilize the system. I used batteries from industrial emergency lighting. 12v, totally sealed and only like 3"x2"x2"

edit: something like this...

http://www.emergencylightbatteries.c...A_Battery.html
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Old 11-29-2014, 02:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
I modded some of my old bikes by removing the chassis ground at the coil & running the wires to a RR unit.
That sounds great, but I think if I remove the chassis ground at the coil, then my ignition system no longer works.


Not a great drawing, but the top part shows what I mean. The magneto (on the right) has two coils, one for the ignition (shown), and the other for lighting.
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DogBunny View Post


So my question: is there anything to be gained by ALSO using the yellow wire. Or, would that just siphon off power from the white wire? I plan on no battery or capacitor, no flashers, LED brake/tail light, couple of LED gauge bulbs, horn, and a conventional 12V headlight that I will change to LED if I have to.
Thanks.

I ended up wiring my bikes up like in the drawing above, except that I connected a 12v headlight to the yellow wire, instead of hooking the headlight into the white wire crcuit, and I'm running a capacitor on the white wire circuit.

The white wire 12v circuit works great for my 12v horn, turn siganls, and brake light.

The yellow wire powered 12v headlight is pretty dim at idle, but it works just fine at RPM's over ~2000.
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