ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-03-2013, 06:15 AM   #1
Krantz OP
Adventurer
 
Krantz's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 84
I have a feeling it's gonna take a loong time

Hi,airheads! Need your help in clarifying a few things. A little intro first: she found me last summer.Followed me home from Toronto.Life was beautiful.We had fun, carelessly running around my workplace.I just could not start doing anything then,wait for the winter,i thought.This was then.Nothing really horrible.Steering a little notchy,tires, of course.A little squeaky and sharp clutch,and that awful but comfortable seat.I like it the way it is,absolutely no plan to cafe or some other mutilation.May be just different handlebars.And certainly new seat.So came winter,i started taking it apart.
Krantz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 06:16 AM   #2
Krantz OP
Adventurer
 
Krantz's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 84
And where the hell is the picture?One more time
Krantz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 06:29 AM   #3
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krantz View Post
And where the hell is the picture?One more time
"hell"?????
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 06:41 AM   #4
Krantz OP
Adventurer
 
Krantz's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 84
Ok, got it.And now is this.One thing led to another.I cleaned steering bearings,repacked with new grease.It is soo smooth now.Then i took oil pan off,no surprises there,no chunks of metal or sludge.Basically i'm trying to see all things in oil, to make sure everything is ok and it is.I have no maintenance history on the bike.I just know i'm third owner.First was from "75 to "81,then the second from "81 till last summer.So from what what i red here i can make a conclusion that someone who new how to do it worked on the bike.Everything comes apart easy,nothing is stuck or seized.Tranny oil is as clear as from the can.Practically no rust, just a little under the break cylinder.Te biggest surprise came when i took the tranny off.It's oil.And it does not look like tranny seal. Now comes the question.In my Haynes manual the description of clutch removal is not very clear.I just do not want things flying apart.Could you guide me through it? There is a description of a long bolt that i'm not sure of. Any specific stuff needs to be applied?
Krantz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 07:09 AM   #5
Beater
Theory Is Not Enough
 
Beater's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Oddometer: 2,998
The six bolts around the edge. The whole thing will come apart. Take the bolts off in pairs ... two opposite bolts at a time. The last two, you back out one turn at a time on each bolt thus letting the spring loosen slowly.

Any way you do it ... that last bolt is tenuous. It will pop out at you once the spring bolt comes free. I actually put a 2x4 across it (hold it there with my hand, pressed against the block, (don't wrap your fingers around the 2x4)) and then back out the last two bolts ... when it does 'pop' it then doesn't fly into the room ... it just hits the 2x4.

FYI - Getting it off is no where near as fun as putting it back on.
__________________
Fred
'85 R80RT G/Sified <|> '91 R100GS Bumblebee (103K miles and climbing) <|> '73 R75/5 LWB
Airhead Zen: Ride - Repair - Ride - Maintain - Ride - Repeat
Beater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 07:10 AM   #6
garthg
Gnarly Adventurer
 
garthg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: United States NorthEast
Oddometer: 345
Probably Rear Main Seal and/or Oil Pump O-ring

It's probably your rear main seal and maybe also the oil pump O-ring. If you're going in to do either, you should do both.

Chris Harris of Affordable Beemer Service in NH has a whole tutorial on how to replace the main seal and oil pump cover O-ring:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0GwMcAHWw8

The tutorial is very good; he explains very clearly the necessity and method to block the front of the crankshaft BEFORE removing the flywheel. It's a little incomplete, however. He doesn't show clutch removal. In the /5 and, in your case, the /6 the clutch plate is under spring pressure. He also doesn't show how to remove the old seal and insert the new one.

Factory method, you need special winged bolts and nuts to remove the clutch pressure plate and disc:



Beater's method is wrong. You're likely to risk injury or damage. The correct method is to remove three Allen-head bolts and substitute longer bolts of the same size and thread with nuts, as above. (They don't have to have plastic wings on them). Tighten the nuts to hold the spring pressure. Then remove the three remaining original Allen-head bolts. Slowly, and sequentially, release the nuts on the longer bolts. That way you can release the pressure gradually without the clutch popping off as Beater describes.

Installation is reverse of removal.

Chris doesn't show this in his video.

You're also going to need a clutch centering arbor of some kind to get the transmission back in after removing and replacing the clutch disc.

You're also going to need new flywheel bolts, clutch bolts and drive shaft bolts, as all these are one-time use, stretch bolts.

How's the drive shaft boot?

All this is not really that big a job. It can be done easily in a day. You've already got the transmission out.


garthg screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 10:25 AM Reason: add info
garthg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 07:16 AM   #7
Beater
Theory Is Not Enough
 
Beater's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Oddometer: 2,998
Quote:
Originally Posted by garthg View Post
Beater's method is wrong.
Hummm ... I've replaced 4 clutches like this and none have 'had issues'. Works pretty well really.

But do what you want. Good luck.
__________________
Fred
'85 R80RT G/Sified <|> '91 R100GS Bumblebee (103K miles and climbing) <|> '73 R75/5 LWB
Airhead Zen: Ride - Repair - Ride - Maintain - Ride - Repeat
Beater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 07:33 AM   #8
garthg
Gnarly Adventurer
 
garthg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: United States NorthEast
Oddometer: 345
Clutch removal under pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post
Hummm ... I've replaced 4 clutches like this and none have 'had issues'. Works pretty well really.

But do what you want. Good luck.

No issues. Just pressure plates and springs flying into the room.

And then, how do you get the pressure plate back on with just the short screws against the spring pressure? Beater's original response suggests that it's difficult. With the longer bolts and nuts, it's easy.

It's not that hard to find the correct longer bolts and nuts.

Cycleworks: $36 for the bolts, nuts and clutch centering arbor.

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?...roducts_id=319

garthg screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 07:46 AM Reason: add info
garthg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 08:01 AM   #9
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krantz View Post
Ok, got it.And now is this.One thing led to another.I cleaned steering bearings,repacked with new grease.It is soo smooth now.Then i took oil pan off,no surprises there,no chunks of metal or sludge.Basically i'm trying to see all things in oil, to make sure everything is ok and it is.I have no maintenance history on the bike.I just know i'm third owner.First was from "75 to "81,then the second from "81 till last summer.So from what what i red here i can make a conclusion that someone who new how to do it worked on the bike.Everything comes apart easy,nothing is stuck or seized.Tranny oil is as clear as from the can.Practically no rust, just a little under the break cylinder.Te biggest surprise came when i took the tranny off.It's oil.And it does not look like tranny seal. Now comes the question.In my Haynes manual the description of clutch removal is not very clear.I just do not want things flying apart.Could you guide me through it? There is a description of a long bolt that i'm not sure of. Any specific stuff needs to be applied?
Remove the bolts one at a time and replace with a much longer bolt that has a nut on it. Run the nut down tight against the pressure plate. When all have been replaced. Start backing off the nuts in a standard pattern so you don't distort the plate. Hold the bolts so they don't turn. When the full spring pressure is released remove the bolts and the plate.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 08:14 AM   #10
Kai Ju
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kai Ju's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,715
+1
Reassemble in reverse order.
Let us know what you find leaking. It's either the rear main seal or the oil pump cover O-ring.........or both.
Ask questions before you turn wrenches.
Kai Ju is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 09:35 AM   #11
Krantz OP
Adventurer
 
Krantz's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 84
Thanks! Now understand the idea of a long bolt.In the book it says one and i thought what is one bolt gonna do?Ok,that is clear.The way it looks there- it's a main seal. there is a lot of oil everywhere behind the flywheel-top and bottom.If it would be oil pump-would it be splayed all over?
Krantz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #12
Kai Ju
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kai Ju's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: So Cal
Oddometer: 1,715
not as much as it would with the leaking rear main seal. The leaking oil pump just runs down the block onto the shelf while the rear main seal leaks onto the flywheel which then generously distributes the oil everywhere.
That doesn't mean the O-ring isn't leaking. Also, it's common practice to replace it while you're there.
You'd be really bummed out once you get it all back together and it still leaks.........
Kai Ju is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 10:27 AM   #13
garthg
Gnarly Adventurer
 
garthg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: United States NorthEast
Oddometer: 345
Main seal or oil pump?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krantz View Post
Thanks! Now understand the idea of a long bolt.In the book it says one and i thought what is one bolt gonna do?Ok,that is clear.The way it looks there- it's a main seal. there is a lot of oil everywhere behind the flywheel-top and bottom.If it would be oil pump-would it be splayed all over?

It may be just the main seal. But the oil pump O-ring is $2.86, and a lot of labor to get to. The one that's in there is probably 30+ years old.
garthg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 10:34 AM   #14
garthg
Gnarly Adventurer
 
garthg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: United States NorthEast
Oddometer: 345
Three bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krantz View Post
Thanks! Now understand the idea of a long bolt.In the book it says one and i thought what is one bolt gonna do?Ok,that is clear.The way it looks there- it's a main seal. there is a lot of oil everywhere behind the flywheel-top and bottom.If it would be oil pump-would it be splayed all over?

You need three bolts, washers and nuts.

Motobins in the U.K. has the set for for about $8 plus shipping.
garthg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 10:54 AM   #15
Plaka
Brevis illi vita est
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Oddometer: 4,579
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krantz View Post
Thanks! Now understand the idea of a long bolt.In the book it says one and i thought what is one bolt gonna do?Ok,that is clear.The way it looks there- it's a main seal. there is a lot of oil everywhere behind the flywheel-top and bottom.If it would be oil pump-would it be splayed all over?
Picture. especially close up of the back of the block just below the flywheel area.
Plaka is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:04 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014