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Old 12-22-2012, 07:56 AM   #31
lineaway
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KY is the leading lubricant in cold winters!
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #32
Sting32
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Originally Posted by lineaway View Post
Sting, I don`t know where the NM rant came from. I thought I said I liked your choice with the yamalube. What`s up?
I wasn't ranting about NM, I was saying if you ride in more un-hospital conditions (then told everyone about HOT conditions I ride in, then I thought about how hot it 'might be' in NM? Shit if I know...

I've been going to go there, then I somehow get you to misread/misinterpret a post and get an attitude with me {really a rant?} so then, I don't want to show up and get 'hit', : lol.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:42 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by 2whlrcr View Post
It's 2F here with a foot of snow on the ground. What kind of oil should I use?
Seriously? Do you do like they do up north, with your cars? I have friends that lived up top of Minnesota, they ran 5/30 in cars, during summer, 0/30 in winter? or something else? if you do that you might need to do that in clutch, but I dont think so.

Cold weather, technically changes nothing, the engines still have to warm up to 180 and run right.

Bigger problem (IMHO) you will have is fork oil, in extreme cold. I have no clue, but I would bet you could make the forks work better with thinner (lower viscosity) oils for the winter. I have seen that done. nothing like stiff ass front forks on slippery ass rocks, to take the bike and fling it out of your cold friggin eskimo-gloved covered fingers... HA HA HA.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #34
NMTrailboss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sting32 View Post
I wasn't ranting about NM, I was saying if you ride in more un-hospital conditions (then told everyone about HOT conditions I ride in, then I thought about how hot it 'might be' in NM? Shit if I know...
Sting,

In NM, most of the time through the winter months at San Ysidro will be in the 30's to 50's and will get up to maybe 80's to low 90's by May, but generally very low humidity. In the summer months as lineaway said, we usually start hitting the mountain trials spots in northern NM to escape the heat and temps will generally be 70's to 90's with the usual afternoon thunderstorms possible on any given day which gives us some humidity but not as bad as east coast areas. San Ysidro will be in the 90's to 100's in summer with the heat reflecting off the rocks pretty intense so we usually avoid that area until it cools a bit in the fall again.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:51 PM   #35
Sting32
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Well after reading all this I decided to try some Yamaha 5w30 Utility oil for quads. Its not the snow mobile oil, previously had been running Napa brand atf F type. Was told by the guy behind the counter that it would take a thousand dollar order to get the snow mobile stuff (don't know whats up with that). Anyway my price on the oil was just four bucks so it was a not a deal breaker. After a short ride now I have bad clutch drag, this is on a new bike with less than 10 hours on it.

The type F atf feels a little to grabby especially in first gear and was looking to cure that with this oil. My main concerns were smooth clutch action and better overall longevity for the motor. Looks like I'm headed back to the atf but will try the dextron III stuff this time.
Mark, how much oil did you put in? as in HOW MANY CC's???? I use closer to 370 cc's WHICH "fills the sight glass on the PRO MODEL transmission cover to half way up the sight glass, when the bike is perfectly perpendicular to the ground, when both tires are on the ground, NO STAND.

EDIT: BTW, You check this after you start it, and shut off, letting the oil get "equalized" in the transmission and clutch area

5/30 is what factory says to use, but they say 400cc, I believe.

I use 0w/30 because I can easily... and I think 0w is closer to ATF? plus it is semi synthetic. Order from rocky mountain ATV, or something if the locals dont have it, else I dont know what to tell you. Your kind of faced with what I face, if I want to use some of the exotic oils out there.

Luckily for me, right now, the Yamha guy I deal with has a great interest in selling the oil, he uses it and sells to several trials riders...

Sting32 screwed with this post 12-23-2012 at 08:07 PM
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:17 PM   #36
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Cheap ass Dextron from the gas station down the street... Easy and always available. Change often, all of the modern oils are fine, and I'll bet 10 times better than anything available 20 years ago.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:19 PM   #37
Sting32
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Originally Posted by NMTrailboss View Post
Sting,

In NM, most of the time through the winter months at San Ysidro will be in the 30's to 50's and will get up to maybe 80's to low 90's by May, but generally very low humidity. In the summer months as lineaway said, we usually start hitting the mountain trials spots in northern NM to escape the heat and temps will generally be 70's to 90's with the usual afternoon thunderstorms possible on any given day which gives us some humidity but not as bad as east coast areas. San Ysidro will be in the 90's to 100's in summer with the heat reflecting off the rocks pretty intense so we usually avoid that area until it cools a bit in the fall again.
NMTB...

NO USE YOU GETTING IN BETWEEN "LINe no WAY" and me, as if what I posted was a rant about NMTA? Jesus Chrysler...

But, I'll stand corrected, you boyz are riding in AIR CONDITIONING compared to half the year out here, 3/4ths the year in OK and TX then, lol. I have driven to san diego a couple of times via 40, I guess I thought NM was as hot as AZ, or eastern Cali, that's my-bad.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:07 AM   #38
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Sting, I have been using a separate measured bottle and putting 400cc into it. After filling the motor I would say there is about 20cc left over in the bottle, so 380cc into the motor. It does appear though to have 3/4 of the sight glass full after running and allowed to settle. Only reason on my part for being so fussy about all this because I intend to keep this bike for a long time and want it to last. Went to Cycle Gear yesterday (only place that was open on a Sunday) and bought a bottle of Redline 10w30 motorcycle specific oil to try. Their price is ridiculous but if it works out I know it can be sourced at a much lower price.

So site glass wise will try a little less and see what happens. I still think a motor oil or transmission specific oil will be better than atf in the long run.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:16 AM   #39
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On another forum, redline was being bragged on. They were using the 80w 2 stroke tranny oil.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:40 AM   #40
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Ya, the 80w Redline transmission oil with shock proof was my first choice but stupid gear did not stock it. Looks like it will be a few days before any of the shops will be open so might just wait and get the 80w to try.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:06 AM   #41
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Yeah I had that problem looking for premix. Let us know how the redline works!
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:32 AM   #42
Sting32
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Originally Posted by motorcyclemark View Post
Ya, the 80w Redline transmission oil with shock proof was my first choice but stupid gear did not stock it. Looks like it will be a few days before any of the shops will be open so might just wait and get the 80w to try.
I wish Jon Stoodley was on this forum, but higher #w/# means the oil is thicker.

You might as well know now, if this is your FIRST gasgas... That the Gasgas PRO models NEVER feels perfectly out of gear, when you pull in on the clutch lever. I dont care how perfectly you adjust everything. Honda/montessa is the only bike I have tried that completely lets loose like a street bike does... It is something you get used to very fast. I cannot think Ossa is any different, I rode a 12 sherco but cant racall exactly how it felt, seems it was not far different.

But if you use thicker oils, the clutch seems to pull more when clutch is in, I think because it tends to act like the Torq Converter on an automatic transmission... that is why (as far as I know) we've found out that some use ATF in the past, shared with trials riders around the world. now there are several flavors of oils you can try, I think 10w/30 is the wrong way, especially for colder climates.

Do what you want though. The longevity of the bike, will depend on 3 (plus many more) factors, BUT the only part that deals with oil would be changing whatever you use, with 10 hours of run time, mainly because this oil lubes the main crank bearings, and there will always be some bits & shavings from transmission gears, and clutch fibers...

other reasons bikes may or may not last...

1 contamination from water (usually waterpump seal) corrupts the oil, if left could cause bearing damage on output shaft bearing, it is a 2 piece bearing.

2 how you beat on the shifter when changing gears.

3 how you use the bike. (abuse neglect).

I have friends with 02 Pro's. they have hellish hours on them, My new rider bought this one... we changed the clutch spring (easier clutch pulling) and a few clutch plates to adjust the fingers to within spec, which helps how hard the clutch is to pull... other than that, the bikes are pretty damn durable. This particular bike WAS NOT ridden by pro or master riders, but sheesh, it is over 10 years old.
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:54 PM   #43
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Yea and don't forget you are comparing gear oils against engine oils. They are measured on two different SAE viscosity scales. Examples are 90wt gear oil is approx the same vis as a 50wt engine oil. 80wt is approx the same as a 20wt engine oil, etc...
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:36 PM   #44
Sting32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whlrcr View Post
Yea and don't forget you are comparing gear oils against engine oils. They are measured on two different SAE viscosity scales. Examples are 90wt gear oil is approx the same vis as a 50wt engine oil. 80wt is approx the same as a 20wt engine oil, etc...
I agree with your information, BUT...

just don't confuse everyone in this thread... we're definitely not talking about "gear oil"!!! we're talking about light viscosity engine/motor oils, or AutoMatic transmission fluids... I would hate to think someone tries 90wt gear oil, the clutch probably wouldnt even disengage,
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:45 PM   #45
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Thread #40 mentions 80wt transmission fluid and I believe the Sherco oil thread mentions 75wt oil from RYP. These are both gear oils. Lots of people think these oils are waaaaay heavier than a 5w-30 engine oil or other common engine or ATF's, when in reality they may not be.
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