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Old 12-21-2012, 03:19 PM   #16
Kokopelli OP
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The downside of beach riding

[IMG][/IMG]

That and the rust. I might just keep him away from there, in the future.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:22 PM   #17
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These pegs together with the 25mm handle bar risers were the biggest bang for buck I purchased.



It transforms the ergonomics, unless you are a dwarf, then you should leave it stock, Eagle eyes will notice how I've shortened the break lever and made up a knurled shifter to replace the cut off piece. You need to do that, to compensate for the more forward position of the foot pegs.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:32 PM   #18
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Kenda 760

Basil had been wearing Kenda 760 for a while. Mainly because they are dirt chip and that appealed to me somehow.





They do a pretty good job off-road. On the road or hard packed gravel, not so much. The front has been trying to tuck under a few time, on the Waikaramoana Road it finally succeeded.

I've fitted TKC80 for the first time, on Basil that is. They are awesome tires. The vibrations are gone and they stick to the road like brown stuff to a blanket. At 2.5 times of the price of the Kenda they should, too and walk on water.

But hey, Basil is my hobby. The R1150GS is my transport. I only went 16km like that, across the harbour bridge, maybe not the smartest thing I've done :-).

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Old 12-21-2012, 03:40 PM   #19
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This is what gets basil going in the morning. His Nippon Denso strarter motor. So it made a lot of sense to me to use Nissin brakes to make him stop :-).

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Old 12-21-2012, 04:10 PM   #20
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I have this side stand. Apparently it is meant to attach where the engine guard usually attaches to, the forward engine mount. I can't quite figure out how that L-bracket is supposed to work. It might be better to attach it to the rear engine mount. But I am not all that comfortable having the side stand parallel to my spokes.





Yes, it still needs to be cut to size and have the baseplate welded on.
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:29 PM   #21
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The L bracket will be to rest under the frame. I can't explain it very well but after buggering around with my sidestand the forces & stresses upon the sidestand & its' attachments when the bike is on an angle is quite queer.

Actually disregard that - I had another look- How the F is that gonna work?

I have taken my screen off for the summer & it is quite nice having the warm breeze over me. Did a 400k ride today & feel pretty fresh still. Those tyres look good.
I agree about the airhead ergos. I end up riding the highways with my feet on the rearsets as it is more comfortable. I have raised the seat, lowered pegs & got 50mm risers - great for standing now
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:24 PM   #22
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That sidestand bears a resemblance to Carl's design, though perhaps not quite so refined
http://www.flyingtpot.com/sidestands.htm

and I could not help but notice: your license plate shows trail-credibility. most impressive.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:47 PM   #23
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The stand is quite sturdy and well made, but I think I will need to mess with the way it's attached. maybe I need to add some sort of shackle. Unfortunately, I don't know how to weld. Maybe it's time to learn.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:33 PM   #24
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HA! you want to learn about welding?
Step this way my lil friend.

Step one: don't clean any surfaces.
Step two: put a weld down - preferably not anywhere near where the metal to be joined is.
Step three: drip some red hot molten lava onto your big toe hanging out of your jandle.
Step four: forget to drop the helmet down & get red-eye.
Step five: finally weld the pieces together and pick them up with bare hands right by the weld.
Step six: Lift cooled welded piece & give a wiggle to see how joineded it is.
Step seven: pull impaled piece of metal with broken weld out of other foot.
Step eight: Keep welding over top of original weld until Fricking thing sticks togther

Remember the biggerer the weld the strongerer it is
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
HA! you want to learn about welding?
Step this way my lil friend.

Step one: don't clean any surfaces.
Step two: put a weld down - preferably not anywhere near where the metal to be joined is.
Step three: drip some red hot molten lava onto your big toe hanging out of your jandle.
Step four: forget to drop the helmet down & get red-eye.
Step five: finally weld the pieces together and pick them up with bare hands right by the weld.
Step six: Lift cooled welded piece & give a wiggle to see how joineded it is.
Step seven: pull impaled piece of metal with broken weld out of other foot.
Step eight: Keep welding over top of original weld until Fricking thing sticks togther

Remember the biggerer the weld the strongerer it is
Thanks, got that. I knew it was easy.Just to think, I would have wasted my money on a course.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:02 PM   #26
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I have had a play with the side stand. I took the engine bar off and fitted the stand to work out what needs to be done.

This angle looked about right, so I marked the length of the stand.



Side view





I could bolt this bracket on here, but I think it needs to go on top, because the engine bolt is the pivot





This looks about right and just clears the main stand, when folded up



So what do you guys think?

It's a nice stand and I like the look without the engine bars. I could use the rear engine mount, but
then the stand would stick out towards the rear wheel, and somehow that doesn't feel right to me.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:02 PM   #27
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Nice work. This site needs some fresh meat....err, I mean, material.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:21 PM   #28
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These are on special at the moment 63 Euros without the tax, but plus 48 Euros shipping. Could be a good idea for a low riding beast like Basil.



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Old 12-21-2012, 10:53 PM   #29
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Also consider this one.
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:03 PM   #30
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Also consider this one.
Not bad, it's thicker.

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