|12-21-2012, 09:32 AM||#1|
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Robertsdale, AL
09 KLX250s DIY: Carb re-jet/ Valve check
I'm not liable for any mis-haps, screw-ups, Oh-no's, bad info, or any other damage that may come from reading this thread and going by my step by step tutorial. This is the first time I've ever worked on my bike or any bike. I'm not mechanically inclined but I wanted to share my step by step tut and pics since I've seen several threads on the topics lately. As long as you remember to take your time, DOWNLOAD/PURCHASE A SERVICE MANUAL and READ IT, and have the proper tools(It took me several trips to the auto parts store...) you should be able to check your valves and jet your carb without paying someone else.
You'll need 8mm sockets, 10mm, sockets, wire cutters, assorted screw drivers, an assorted rubber intake plug set to plug up removed smog crap, torque wrench(in/lb), A SERVICE MANUAL (link: http://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/...manuals-37525/), feeler gauges, and some time.
^^^PLEASE READ IF YOU HAVEN'T^^^
Step 1: Prep yourself and tools, I had lots of coffee and read/watched tutorials online to make sure I was ready.
Step 2: It helps to have the bike up but this all can be done from the side stand, I bought a husk lift(amazon for $70) and it performed awesome!
Step 3: Remove plastics(I kept the hardware in a container separated from the engine hardware. You'll need to remove the side panels, seat, and shrouds.
I followed the instructions from this link: I suggest you do the same for the carb removal as well as looking as some of my pics and steps, I will include some of HMF's pictures incase you want to stay on this page: Kawasaki KLX 250 slip on - HMF Engineering Forums
Step 4: Gas Tank Removal: Turn petcock off, remove fuel line from petcock(the line that runs to the carburetor,a little access gas may drip, wipe down. If you remove the line and gas is still pouring out, your petcock is not functioning as it should). Remove the bolt as the base of the tank(where the seat was), then remove the one bolt/bushing from each bottom side of tank. Then remove the two bolts that holds the petcock to the frame.
Pull the 2 grey or black hoses that connect to the gas tank from the frame, they aren't attached by wire ties but they are run through a few areas, NOTE WHERE THEY CAME FROM! Drape them over the side of the bike.
Pull the tank
Step 5: Disconnect Carb TPS and surrounding wire ties.
Step 6: SMOG removal
Remove clamp from airbox and use plug to plug up hole
Remove line from KCR to the carb(you'll remove line from carb and plug later), remove hose from KCR to the head(engine), and pull the KCR(smog crap).
I used this bolt and a hose clamp to plug the hose that connects to the head after removing smog crap.
BORROWED FROM DIRTSURFER'S HOW TO LINK: http://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/...ompleted-8886/
Plugged hose should look like this:
I also threw a wire tie around the line that connects to the carb from KCR, just to make sure I pulled the correct one off later.(Better safe than sorry)
Step 7: Remove wire ties on main harness for ease of access to the carb when removing.
Step 8: Remove throttle cable holder plate
Step 9: Push up and over on the carb to put slack on the throttle cables
Step 10: Remove brake reservoir
Step 11: Remove the carburetor: Loosen the hose clamps from the engine intake and the air box, pull rubber airbox hose up and gently wiggle the carb out and up through the gas tank/seat opening. You'll need to pull the clear/natural/pink lines from the frame to the carb to make it easier
Time to Re-jet:
Step 1: Plug KCR hose(I knew which one it was because of my wire tie)
I threw a rag in the intake to make sure I didn't get anything inside my engine.
I used the dj2206 kit, made for 06/07, even though I had the 09. This is because I plan on going to the BB351 in a couple of months and I feel this would be closer than the stock DJ2152.
Step 2: Remove float housing case
Step 3: Replace main jet
Clean pilot, I used a guitar string and water, it wasn't clogged but just made sure it was tip-top.
Button the float housing back up, its time to move on to the needle.
Step 4: Open Slide/Diaphragm housing:
Step 5: ***READ YOUR DYNOJET INSTRUCTIONS, YOU MAY NOT HAVE TO DO THIS STEP*** Drill the slide with supplied drill bit, I did it by hand.
Step 6: Soak slide/Diaphragm in warm water so it doesn't expand, this makes installing it back much easier.
***INSTALL NEW NEEDLE PER DJ INSTRUCTIONS*** Wipe water off of the slide before installing*** The diaphragm should be in the notch around the top, it should not have any kinks, holes, or be sandwiched between the top plate and carb.
Step 7: Make sure the needle is in the main jet hole and check the slide operation. The slide should move smoothly up and down, when dropping it should sound like air is sucking into the carb and drop slowly **NOT FAST and FREE**
WHEW!!! Now time to check the valve clearance, ***PLEASE HAVE YOUR SERVICE MANUAL READY***
Step 1: Remove wire harness plate
Step 2: Remove the Radiator Fan, there are 3 screws and one wiring harness clip that needs to be undone.
Step 3: Wipe down Head Cover and remove the 3 hex bolts
Step 4: Remove the head, I replaced my head cover(valve cover) gasket during this process since I had some sad little weeping moons(head cover leaked at half moons)
***NOW REFER TO THE SERVICE MANUAL TO CHECK VALVE CLEARANCE***
I took a piece of paper and wrote down my clearances after measuring with the feeler gauges(Sorry no pics, hands were filthy and I was nervous):
I was in spec
Place Head Cover back on and **REFER TO SERVICE MANUAL** on what to torque the head bolts down to.***PLEASE READ THE SERVICE MANUAL***
Now reverse the processes
Hope this helps someone...
Pauls2ndblessing screwed with this post 12-21-2012 at 09:43 AM
|12-31-2012, 10:08 PM||#4|
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Enterprise, AL
nice, appreciate all the info. I need to make the time to put the kit on mine.
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|