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Old 09-02-2013, 12:58 PM   #1486
mbravo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
I ordered the complete matched set in 49/16 combo. That's 49 teeth on the rear, and 16 teeth on the front (drive or counter-sprocket) for all you yankees. Since Supersprox did not have the Husky TR650 listed on their website as a choice, I ordered sprockets for a BMW F650. As you can see here, I'm confirming a match on both ends.
Could you be more specific, I mean, *which* F650 did you order for? I tried couple at random (as there's a lot of them in the SuperSprox e-shop), and never saw a red set displayed?

FWIW, I run a 49/16 gearing on my old BMW F650ST (got a set as a deal in the old "club" version of F650.com) and it's a VERY nice gearing, it has pulled me through many a trail where I was absolutely way beyond my skills :) (not to mention F650ST is a *street* version of the Funduro, which wasn't that much of an offroad bike to begin with)

mbravo screwed with this post 09-02-2013 at 01:20 PM
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Old 09-02-2013, 01:19 PM   #1487
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HF....instead of grinding the back of that bolt off that's interfering with the chain - you could probably add a washer to the front side - quick 'n easy.

Enjoy the CD trail in New Mexico - there's a portion of it we ride every year at least a few times....out of Chloride Creek up the hill to 52 and over to Monticello Box, Burma Rd, etc.

Good riding back in there, I'll be down there on the TR in late October if it hasn't sold by then.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:42 PM   #1488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbravo View Post
Could you be more specific, I mean, *which* F650 did you order for? I tried couple at random (as there's a lot of them in the SuperSprox e-shop), and never saw a red set displayed?

FWIW, I run a 49/16 gearing on my old BMW F650ST (got a set as a deal in the old "club" version of F650.com) and it's a VERY nice gearing, it has pulled me through many a trail where I was absolutely way beyond my skills :) (not to mention F650ST is a *street* version of the Funduro, which wasn't that much of an offroad bike to begin with)
Oops.......TR650 rear sprocket mount matches the F650GS (1999 - 2009)

Supersprox
Rear sprocket item # RSB1520-49 Red
Front sprocket item # CST402-16
With the last two numbers
being the tooth count desired, in both sprockets.

The matching chain is item # RK - GB520GXW - 120
With 520 being chain size, and 120 being the link count.
Remember, you will have to remove 6 links from this chain to make it 114.
I think this one only comes in Rivet style master link.

HF
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:48 PM   #1489
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Originally Posted by Blakebird View Post
HF....instead of grinding the back of that bolt off that's interfering with the chain - you could probably add a washer to the front side - quick 'n easy.
Seriously? And be denied the gratifying pleasure of amputating the offender?





I think not!

A lesser man......maybe.

HF
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:06 PM   #1490
Rayzor61
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Front End Wobble resoltion?

Forgive me for not finding this on a search but has anyone found a way to reduce or elininate the front end wobble on the Strada or Terra yet?

I only ask because the bike is so much more capable of going over 72 mph (when the wobble starts). I want to go faster, safely.

I have the Scout 60's front and back and I balanced them myself.

When I sit back on the passenger seat (shift weight to rear) and tuck in, the problem goes away a little. I'm thinking about lowering the rear spring. To lower it would I tighten the adjuster ring clockwise to compress the spring (more preload) or should I loosen it to make it softer, hence lowering it with my weight??????

The bikes suspenion may be out of balance. I'm 6'2" and weigh 175 with gear (if that matters)....

PLEASE HELP! its driving me crazy over an otherwise perfect thumper....
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:18 PM   #1491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
I found it. And YOU better pay close attention to this part.

See this here frame bolt….what holds on your footpeg mount:



Take a close look behind it on the backside:



The bolt is protruding past the frame and interfering with the chain action. In the photo, its the smudgy nub which appears to be touching the top of the chain where it passes the frame. Easy to find on your bike, so take a looksee for your self.

AND its not just rubbing this new RK X-ring chain. Its been rubbing my stock OEM chain for some time. As the suspension is compressed, the chain gets snagged on it and can't raise up. This explains several things: like the odd "limited" suspension travel feeling noticed on a few occasions. An odd clicking noise upon occasion which I had not been able to locate. Very minor things that were random in occurrence, but I had noticed them. Might be why the OEM chain seems to be "wearing out prematurely", as many have observed.

The fix is real easy.

Step 1: Remove the bolt for inspection and length check.



You can see where the OEM chain has been cutting into the bolt. Note: I have zero time on the new chain at this point. It hasn't been out of the garage yet, following the chain swap.

Step 2: Whack it off:



And clean up the thread end. I just used a small triangular file to debur the thread groove towards the tip. Easy peasy!

Voila…..done! No problem now:



Time to ride…..

HF

p.s. I'll discuss gear ratios and the results of my testing with several combinations in my next post.
NO offence because you are a well respected and major contributor towards this forum; but wouldn't it have been easier to just add a couple washers to the head side of the bolt to shorten the protruding end?

Also, whenever I shorten a bolt, I always thread on a nut of the same thread size and after the cut is made to the bolt, just remove the nut and it will repair any damaged threads......assuming it is harder metal then the bolt.

Gotta love those Gold Chains; I recently put a DID Gold 530/120 on a Bonneville and it cost me $163.00......whewww!
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:46 PM   #1492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingDonkeys View Post
All my footpegs were held on with blue locktite, not red. Nevertheless, it might as well have been red. Mine didn't have a "dab" on it, they looked to have been dipped in it. :eek:...
Tried to back out the bolt using the correct torx socket and a foot-long torque wrench, but it partially screwed up the head after backing it out just enough for the end to not protrude on the other side. I'm gonna leave it that way and hope it vibrates out enough to remove it without totally destroying the torx head. But, given the resistance to moving it that little bit, I'd bet it stays there forever. Lord, I hate those torx bolts. I'll see if I can get one from the dealer just in case.
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:47 PM   #1493
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Rayzor, I think this has been a very elusive ghost to chase down, but only for a few TR650 riders. Not everyone is experiencing this, which tells me that it likely has everything to do with tire balancing, wheel truing, or suspension setup.

At one point, it was even believed to be the Touratech handguards, but that has since been proven wrong by TrapperJ. Heck, I've got Barkbusters, a cell phone, and a GPS flapping in the wind on mine.

I'm in a unique place because I have a Terra-fied Strada. I've run a couple thousand miles on cast wheels with Tourances, and likewise with spoke wheels on K60's. I commute on my TR, which means I do at least 30 miles of 70+ mph a day. I have even done a few tri-state runs on the interstate. I have never experienced any of this weave/wobble that people are speaking of.

So what did I do different? I have no clue, but I did make dang sure the suspension was setup properly for me, and that the wheels were trued and balanced.

I can say that the bike got a little sloppier with the K60's installed, but that is to be expected. It is still comfortable cruising at 85mph.
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Old 09-02-2013, 04:55 PM   #1494
Rayzor61
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so to lower the rear, do I add preload by turning it clockwise to krimp the spring or is it just the opposit?
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:40 PM   #1495
DirtyOldMan
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You would lower the rear by reducing preload. Trouble is, on mine at least, it was already 2 clicks from the bottom.
My wobble didn't happen until I put the TKC on the front. I even test rode it with the new K60 on the rear and the old Sahara still in place on the front, no wobble. Soon as I mounted the TKC on the front the thing gets plumb scary at 75. I even pulled my windscreen off it today and rode it. No change, still had the wobble at 75.
Right now, I'm blaming it on the tire.
I'll post up anything I figure out.
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #1496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayzor61 View Post
so to lower the rear, do I add preload by turning it clockwise to krimp the spring or is it just the opposit?
Loosening the spring tension will create more sag, thus lower the back end a little bit.

Conversely tightening the spring will decrease sag and keep the back end higher.

Just make sure you loosen the locking collar (jam nut) before whacking away at the adjustment ring. And then re-tighten the lock collar when finished. They are adjacent to each other. Also, much easier to adjust if you elevate the bike on a stand to get the weight off the rear end.

You can also raise or lower the front end by sliding the fork tubes up or down inside the triple clamps.

HF

P.s. A washer is a band-aid. I couldn't bear it.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:33 PM   #1497
snailrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayzor61 View Post
Forgive me for not finding this on a search but has anyone found a way to reduce or elininate the front end wobble on the Strada or Terra yet?

I only ask because the bike is so much more capable of going over 72 mph (when the wobble starts). I want to go faster, safely.

I have the Scout 60's front and back and I balanced them myself.

When I sit back on the passenger seat (shift weight to rear) and tuck in, the problem goes away a little. I'm thinking about lowering the rear spring. To lower it would I tighten the adjuster ring clockwise to compress the spring (more preload) or should I loosen it to make it softer, hence lowering it with my weight??????

The bikes suspenion may be out of balance. I'm 6'2" and weigh 175 with gear (if that matters)....

PLEASE HELP! its driving me crazy over an otherwise perfect thumper....
Hi, I was reading the thread and some of the issues and was wondering how and if the rear wheel alignment would affect it. Has anybody tried moving the adjusters to align the tracking? I did not see any mention of this. Might try different settings and see if it helps.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:17 PM   #1498
Chazbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post




Take a close look behind it on the backside:



The bolt is protruding past the frame and interfering with the chain action. In the photo, its the smudgy nub which appears to be touching the top of the chain where it passes the frame. Easy to find on your bike, so take a looksee for your self.

AND its not just rubbing this new RK X-ring chain. Its been rubbing my stock OEM chain for some time. As the suspension is compressed, the chain gets snagged on it and can't raise up. This explains several things: like the odd "limited" suspension travel feeling noticed on a few occasions. An odd clicking noise upon occasion which I had not been able to locate. Very minor things that were random in occurrence, but I had noticed them. Might be why the OEM chain seems to be "wearing out prematurely", as many have observed.

The fix is real easy.

Step 1: Remove the bolt for inspection and length check.



You can see where the OEM chain has been cutting into the bolt. Note: I have zero time on the new chain at this point. It hasn't been out of the garage yet, following the chain swap.

Step 2: Whack it off:



And clean up the thread end. I just used a small triangular file to debur the thread groove towards the tip. Easy peasy!

Voila…..done! No problem now:



Time to ride…..

HF

.
Great catch, HF. Thank you. Mine sticks out a bit too, but there seems to be plenty of side clearance and I have no evidence of rubbing...yet. I may just add a washer since my thread is still in good condition. HF's solution of cutting off the protrusion was best for him because he had no threads on the end so adding a washer under the head would just have moved the bad area into the threaded portion on the bike and given him incomplete engagement.

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Old 09-03-2013, 04:48 AM   #1499
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Ok.....using a "washer" or two or three is fine for mere mortals.

Personally, I like cutting stuff. Whacking and grinding, drilling and filing, torching and welding.....just makes for a thrilling day in the shop! I can be a real destructive force.

It would have taken some thick washers to back it out enough for me. And, I don't like protrusions on the outside of the frame.....a nub rubbing on my boot, for example. Probably wouldn't be an issue in this situation, given the location relative to the peg. BUT I'm real picky, remember.

There are plenty of threads biting to hold the bolt in the frame. So, the un-threaded tip retracted would not be a concern.

I do use a Motion Pro chain alignment tool when setting my tension. That's why you see the chainguard removed in my photos. Hadn't put it back on yet. Straight alignment is very important to chain & sprocket longevity, among other things. I strongly recommend using one. At the very least, lay down behind your bike for an "eyeball alignment". Never trust your swingarm markings until proven correct.

So yes, in proper alignment, the chain was rubbing and snagging (underneath) the bolt tip. My fix was extremely simple with a vise, hacksaw, and small triangular file as shown. Washer spacers would be even simpler, if you don't mind your bolt head not being flush with the frame on the peg side.

I had no trouble removing the bolt. Yes, it was very secure. But a "proper" fitting Torx on a long handle large socket broke it loses easily with one quick firm snap. Use a heat gun to warm it up, if stubborn. The thread locker was indeed red on mine.

Personally, I've learned to like Torx heads...a lot. I've never stripped one. I have learned you must use a proper size fit. There is almost no wiggle room when you have the correct size bit. If you strip one, I'm betting that you used one bit size too small. Purchase a quality set of bits with the full range of size increments. Some of the kits skip a few critical sizes.....beats me why. Like the T27 (between T25 & T30). Everything usually goes up by increment of 5, so you would never suspect a kit is missing a 27, if you didn't no better

Get ham-fisted with a T25 in a T27 bolt head, and you'll probably strip the tips. However, a T27 would still fit in there and work with some finagling, because the Torx joints are pretty deep.

My 2 cents....

HF

*****Edit**** the frame bolt for the peg mount is a T50 size Torx head.
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Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow Texas or Bust!
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:16 PM   #1500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rayzor61 View Post
Forgive me for not finding this on a search but has anyone found a way to reduce or elininate the front end wobble on the Strada or Terra yet?
what wobble?


seriously, they don't all do that.
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