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Old 01-22-2013, 08:18 AM   #181
Harder1
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Tap-Its

Thanks HF! Those Tap-it doohickeys look slick. I wish I knew about them before I wired up all my goodies on the Terra. I went the voltmeter, solder, heat shrink route = time vampire. Like you, I find comfort in the relay system. Cheers.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:01 AM   #182
njoytheride
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Krussell. I'm selling my F800GS. Sorry but everything works. Probably shouldn't strip any parts off if I'm trying to sell it.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:45 AM   #183
trapperj
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Bars same on Strada & Terra..? Touatech says not same

I have a Strada that I am modding up...and looking @handgaurds...touratech says that the bars are different between the two bikes. I looked pretty hard and didn't see any difference. What say you? I reckon I could be wrong. Would not be the first time.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:40 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapperj View Post
I have a Strada that I am modding up...and looking @handgaurds...touratech says that the bars are different between the two bikes. I looked pretty hard and didn't see any difference. What say you? I reckon I could be wrong. Would not be the first time.
According to the parts catalog they are the same. We have both setting here ans they appear to be the same as well.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:22 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krussell View Post
HF, won't that make the F800 a bit difficult to ride?



Quote:
Originally Posted by trapperj View Post
I have a Strada that I am modding up...and looking @handgaurds...touratech says that the bars are different between the two bikes. I looked pretty hard and didn't see any difference. What say you? I reckon I could be wrong. Would not be the first time.
Agree with JT, I think they are identical. I'm pretty sure all the Touratech handguards are identical also, even though different part numbers are listed for separate bikes (at least for the Fat Bar applications). One of their Techs said so. However, the Kaoko cruise locks are a different matter. They make all manner of types to work with different bar ends and throttle tubes (which can be very bike specific, at least on the OEM stuff).


Quote:
Originally Posted by tirebiter View Post
I dualsported this 360 from scratch using those posi-lock connectors, the bare wire ends started corroding within a few months. Guess their not too waterproof.
Took them all apart, cleaned everything and squeezed dialectric grease into the connectors before reconnecting.
All good after that..

Thanks for the heads-up, TB. Good to know. I've not had any problems with them before, but I also cut my exposed wire ends short…..leaving them well inside the housings. Very easy for me to add silicone grease to the few I have used. I'm going to do that. Beeeeautiful bike, BTW.


HF
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:48 PM   #186
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My hands are frozen...can you help me?

Probably not…..go see a Doctor.

BUT, I hear an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. So, installing heated grips might work in your favor.

And yes, it can be done on the cheap. You don't need high dollar, self-contained, gold-wire electrodes to do the trick. Though, I'll happily use such nice appurtenances would they be available. For me, on the Terra, I'd be breaking the Rules….since I already had a cheap pair of these Trackside wrap-on heat panels sitting in my drawer for I don't know how long. Bought them many moons ago during one of Cyclegear's close-out blow-out sales. Normally retail for a whopping $34.99, I snatched them for half-price (only $17.50).



Sure they will work! Especially with this unique (Beemer'esq) plastic handguard tube on the left side.



Very cool that Husky decided to use these tubes over the bars……if only for the very purpose of adding heated panels. I can think of no other valid reason. So now, the metal bar won't suck the heat away on the left handgrip, like my KLR did (Long Live Pig). That's the biggest advantage high-dollar heated grip systems usually have....they come pre-mounted on plastic tubes which slide onto the bar. However, the Terra already has them in place.



If you've never used these wrap-arounds before and want to try a cheap easy solution, give it a go. Piece of cake to discard if you don't like them (but I think you will).

Remove the old grips and clean up the housings. Next, peel the backing off the sticky side and wrap it around the bar (plastic housing) in a position that makes sense. You don't want any stress on the wire connections under the grip. So, think it thru on the throttle side where its in a good position to allow a stress-free rotation as you turn the throttle.



Then, I add a piece of black electrical tape to both ends to help keep it in place while I'm installing the grips (usually a tight squeeze). This also helps reduce stress on the wire connections to the panels, which can be rather brittle. Don't forget…..they were CHEAP. So, extra precautions are needed for longevity-sake.



Proceed to your grip box to make a selection. What's that? What do you mean you don't have a "grip box"? What on earth have you been doing when Cyclegear has a super duper close-out blow-out sale? Heck, I buy stuff I may never need….but might….someday....maybe....because. Would that qualify as an addiction?



BUT, at least I have grips to pick from today, without breaking the Rules. See Sweet Thang, I told you these would come in handy on my next motorcycle someday!

*****Edit 1/23/13******************
Forgot to mention you need two sets of grips to do this as shown. With plastic tubes on both sides, you'll need to use a throttle grip with the larger internal diameter on both sides. The standard smaller ID left-hand grip will not slide onto the plastic tubing (at least not easily) without mangling your heat panels.
*************************************

Hhhhmmmm….I seem to be missing Grip Install Photos in my selection. Oh well, you know how to do that. Except I do spray a little 3M Spray Adhesive lightly over the top of the heated panels just seconds before sliding on the grip. Momma's hairspray could work well, also. It does two things. Lubricates the material very briefly which aids the sliding on of the grip. And then, some degree of adhesion to help prevent the grip from breaking free or sliding loose later.

Two things I hate on a motorcycle and simply won't stand for: 1) worn out grips…..hard, smooth, tattered & torn 2) a loose grip…..twists & slides on bar. Nope, just can't have that. Your LIFE often depends upon your controllability factor, and that is hugely affected by the gripping action. Just saying.

So yeah, I change grips often. Personally, I prefer a soft tacky grip that is easy to hang on to without having to death grip the bars. That's the number one cause of forearm pump. Most everyone I see squeezes their hands too tightly. Not sure if its just habit, anxiety, or fear. If you want to ride better, loosen up your grip so you can start feeling the feedback. But I digress…..

Check this out:



A single cable throttle housing! That's fantastic (IMO). I get tired of messing with double cable throttles. They can be a real PITA sometimes. Thanks Husky!

I like my throttles to work super smoothly. Don't want to feel any resistance in the throttle tube when I'm twisting it. Hate friction spots. Told you I was picky.

Here's my secret, and it has worked flawlessly for me over the past 30 years (under hardcore competition).



Scotchbrite that bar until its as smooth as a baby's butt. Then, spray some Teflon Grease on the bar and into the throttle tube….working it on/off a bit to spread it around good.





If I ever feel grit getting under the tube, I simply remove it at the next convenient opportunity, clean it up, & repeat the process. You'll be amazed how well you can feel what the rear tire is doing when you have a friction free throttle action. Its like having the rear tire in the palm of your right hand.

Consider this the bonus section. I just threw it in for good measure, because I've been asked many times by other riders how I make my throttle feel so smooth. The white lithium, teflon grease stays pretty consistently smooth thru a wide range of temperature. Doesn't get tacky and/or stiff when temps get cold. I like it.


Next up…..we'll strip her clothes off so we can admire her naked. Then, pull some wires and power-up the Fuzeblock.

I will add that she is rather modest, at first. That plastic is pretty tricky to get off....first time around.

HF

p.s. things are about to heat up!
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Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow Texas or Bust!
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:23 PM   #187
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HF enjoying your experiences enormously. :
Very useful... when I pick up my Terra at last...
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:25 AM   #188
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Thanks for the kind comments, Mario. Glad you find it useful.


The missing grip photos:





I really like these Progrip Superbike - gel touch (sometimes labeled "soft touch"). They've become my #1 choice for Dualsporting. The double layer design helps reduce vibration (which is a mute point on the Terra). Plus, they are super comfy and easy to hang on to. They also seem to last a good long while….longer than others I've tried.

AND they come with open ends which is great for handguard attachments. The one downside is they are not the best choice if using a Throttle Rocker (Grip Buster)…..one of those throttle aids which you rest your palm on and can spin around the throttle to reposition. Those things snag on the little die-cut holes, causing the top layer to tear (if you're not real careful). With the Kaoko cruise lock, I don't really need a Throttle Rocker anymore so its not an issue for me.

Look closely and you'll see I have slid heat-shrink tubing over the heat panel wires. I use 3/16" tubing, and it works very well to stiffen and protect the small wires which are routed into the headlight assembly (which you'll see later). This is good protection since the wires will be moving back and forth a lot during handlebar turning.



Black electrical tape is an alternative, if you don't have any heat-shrink tubing available. Once upon a time, I used tape. Now, I like heat-shrink much better.

******Edit*********
Here is another photo of the heat-shrink tube over the heated grip wires (on the left side). I'll run it full length, then trim back as needed.



********************

You will also see that I support the wires under the bar with a loose fitted cable-tie. This maintains proper routing while letting it turn easily with the throttle action, and not fatiguing the wire. Zipping the wire tightly to the bar this close to the throttle will cause a stress point that eventually breaks the wire.

Good decisions come from knowledge,
Knowledge comes from experience,
Experience comes from bad decisions.

Ask me how I know!

HF

p.s. on 2nd thought.....don't ask.
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Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow Texas or Bust!
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Athena Big Bore Project WRRDualsport.com

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Old 01-23-2013, 06:50 AM   #189
HighFive OP
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How do I remove the plastic panels?

Caution: Bike Porn ahead. Must be at least 21 yrs. old to view Naked Photos....you've been warned.


Removing the big plastic side covers seemed simple enough, but it wasn't. After finding and removing all the bolts, nothing happened. And for some considerable time, I pondered what was still holding it in place so firmly. I mean, you don't want to force it and break the plastic. Quite puzzling it was, like working on a Rubics Cube.

BUT I finally discovered the secret code to unlock the combination, and she dropped her sexy nightgown with a smile.















That was the easy part. Now comes the contentious part……mind boggling for me. But easy peasy for you.

You must start the separation process on the front tip. The bolting frame is a snap fit of sorts and must be carefully pried apart.





Take hold of it and lift the panel upward and a bit outward from the front…





Until you can clear the angled tabs from their slot at the rear…



You can't see it (yet) in this photo, but the rear most tab has a longer hook shape than the other two (which just point downward).



Essentially same process on the other side:







Next, remove the smaller black "Husqvarna" panels. Pretty straight forward with a couple bolts, then a push-pin at the bottom which stabs into a grommet on the radiator:





I've read elsewhere that people think this is a radiator mounting point. Quite the opposite, a you can see. Nothing more than a plastic mount. Their are three firm radiator mounts that I will show you later.

Finally, there is one more plastic shroud covering the front. Several bolts which are easily accessed around the perimeter.



Kind of tricky to pull out….but its quite flexible and you can get a little rough with it.

However, its a bit SPOOKY when you are holding it in your hand. Rotate it around and you get this:



Holy smokes……Darth Vader!

HF

Next up: pulling the wires. There's plenty of space.
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'13 Husky TR650 Terra, '11 Husaberg FE390, '10 BMW F800GS, '12 BMW R1200GS
Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow Texas or Bust!
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:40 PM   #190
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Power Up!

Time to power up the accessories. I want separate electrical circuits for GPS, Heated Grips, Heated Vest, and auxiliary LED Lights. So, I'm going to run four sets of Positive/Negative wires from the nose to the tail….more or less.

You can pull them as individual wires, or do this instead:



Its real simple to make your own wire harness using shrink-tubing. Keeps the wires organized, protected, and rather professional looking. I had some 5/16" tubing on hand, so I used that of course. I was able to pull two sets of leads thru it, then shrink it down with my heat gun real nice, tight, & smooth.

I found a nice protected slot along the frame rail, and temporarily pulled a white wire thru there just for a photo so the route can be seen.



Now, I have replaced the white wire with my actual harness:



Here's the new harness snaking past the head-stop...



….and out the headlight assembly.



Lots of room in here to work and pack stuff. Actually, the most amount of free space I think I've ever enjoyed in this area. Just perfect for what we need to do!



Notice I have drilled a hole into the side of the headlight box. This is where I'm putting the toggle switch for the heated grips.



Great spot, I think. I set the switch position sideways instead of vertical, so that I can pull it toward me to engage on High.



Mounted the Resistor (for the Low circuit) right here against the metal brace…..where its clear from touching any plastic.



That Resistor gets mighty hot when you have the grips on the Low setting. So, you really have to be carefully where you put it. I think the large surface area of the metal will serve nicely to dissipate the heat quickly, but will definitely keep an eye on things. Its always a pickle sorting out where to put this resistor on every bike. The Terra made it easy (I hope). But, I don't use the Low setting very much either…..FWIW.

With all the extra room in this box, I decided to try using the Posi-locks for my connections.





This will let me replace the heated grip panels easier in the future, should the need arise during a grip change. After all, they are pretty cheap devices…..but did serve me long & well on my KLR & WRR bikes. I can always change later to direct solder + heatshrink tubing, if necessary. That's real easy to do right here up front.

There are two wires coming from each heat panel. They are not designated + or -. Just make sure you connect one wire from each grip onto the positive line (my new red wire) and the remaining wire from each grip onto the negative line (my new black wire). To keep track of my black wires on the other end of my harness, I simply wrapped a small piece of silver duck tape around one of them on each end……so I'd know which I'm using for which device.

I'm using my new yellow (positive) wire for my GPS power. I like to use an SAE plug with a weather cap which I can just zip-tie right to my clutch cable near the GPS. I simply buy an extra Battery Tender connection wire and cut off a short lead to splice in. You can see it here, right behind the Ram-ball:



This line is also convenient for use as a phone charging circuit to my tank bag. I have a splitter to put on the line when needed.


Time to energize the circuits!

I decided to use a super fancy "Fuzeblock" for my power distribution because I've always wanted to.

AND because I wanted to make BigDog jealous. Also….maybe because it was already sitting in my toolbox drawer (never having been used).

I was a little worried it might be too big for any space I could find, even though it fits in the palm of your hand. But no worries, I found the absolute perfect place. How convenient is this? I attached it to the battery wall with an adhesive strip of Velcro.



The Fuzeblock is really cool…..as it contains a built in contact relay plus well organized wire lugs that are essentially foolproof, unless you wear a blindfold when installing. It made so much sense, that I didn't even need to read any instructions. Everything is stamped right onto the device very clearly. Here it is under construction:





You just line up your matching positive and negative wires across from each other (on the same fuse circuit). Now then, you can move the mini-fuse left or right one position to make it be a "Switched Circuit" or a "Full-time Circuit". A Switched Circuit will only receive power when you turn on the key…..and lose it when you turn off. I setup my heated grips and heated vest plug (which I've not shown yet) on switched circuit mode. And, I set the GPS line to be powered all the time.

You only need to run an additional wire from the top of the Fuzeblock to a switched power source. I tapped into the tail-light wire like this:





Use the white & green wire……trust me. I proved it by process of elimination.

Here it is all neat & tidy at completion:



Room for 6 total circuits…..what more could you need?



*********Edit********
Forgot to mention....make sure you add a 30 amp Main Fuse in the Positive power feed between the battery and the Fuzeblock!
Here are the fuses I used on each active circuit:
3 amp = GPS
5 amp = Heated Grips
10 amp = Heated Riding Gear (vest, gloves, etc)
*********************

You may notice the blue wires rolled up. I ran those lines for auxiliary lights which I plan to add in the future. Pulled them along the right side frame rail, same route as the others on the left. Again, plenty of room for 18 gauge wire….which is what I use for GPS, heated grips, and LED lights. I will hook those wires up later, when I install lights. Haven't decided what to use yet, and I don't have any laying around the bone pile.

I did pull one more set of heavier gauge wires along the left side (same route) for my Heated Riding Gear (Vest & Gloves). I used 16 gauge wire for this particular line.

Once again, I prefer an SAE plug for this connection and established a special place for it exactly where I wanted it:



Yes….I drilled a hole in my purdee plastic!

I'm not skeered to do that. I like putting things in the perfect place for me.



Its a weatherproof tight connection (another Battery Tender line cut up….spares only cost about $7 at Cyclegear)….right next to my tankbag. I have a piece of velcro on my tankbags to stick my Thermostat on, which keeps it handy right in front of me.

Best of all….everything works GREAT!

HF

p.s. Fuzeblock purchased from "Cyclenutz". Good folks.

p.s.s.s.s IF I Can Do This....You Can Do It Too.
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'13 Husky TR650 Terra, '11 Husaberg FE390, '10 BMW F800GS, '12 BMW R1200GS
Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow Texas or Bust!
Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project WRRDualsport.com

HighFive screwed with this post 01-23-2013 at 07:59 PM
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:22 PM   #191
Blaise W
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Nice job Highfive. I guess the rest of us still have some work to do to try an catch up, so slow down, will ya! That front fairing connector scares me everytime I pry it off. 'Makes a loud pop and I always think I've broken the plastic, but not! Eventually I will get used to it.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:10 PM   #192
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Very nice one mate! I'm following you and waiting for any update from you !! might buy one as well .
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:58 AM   #193
K1W1
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Thanks HighFive. This is great info and will be a big help for many.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:28 AM   #194
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Thank you, I will get around to some of this stuff.

Too busy riding and it's way too hot for shed time.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:10 PM   #195
Harder1
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Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to help others. The other thread has become the philosophical winter shacknasty thread.
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