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Old 01-25-2013, 06:50 PM   #196
HighFive OP
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I found a secret compartment while probing around during my electrical work.

These two bolts were quite puzzling, as their purpose made no sense to me.



Underneath the rear fender there are a couple more nondescript bolts in the black plastic. Removing all of these bolts (top & bottom) releases this vented tray:





Interesting or strange, I can't decide which. There is room to carry something, but it would likely get dirty and wet. Maybe a good place for a hidden spare key placed in a weather tight bag.

Hhhmmm……

HF


p.s. another Hidden Gem I discovered is this wonderful thing of beauty:



Great Balls of Fire......Terra has an Airbox Drain-plug already built into the Collector! Life is good.

Exciting news for people who like to take their bikes for a swim.
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HighFive screwed with this post 01-25-2013 at 07:00 PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:08 AM   #197
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Canisterectomy

Stupid Question of the day: How do I remove the canister thingy-ma-jig?

This post is a "how to" if you want to. Its not open to debate whether you should-a, could-a, or would-a. Let that discussion rage somewhere else. My Thread…I make the rules. I'll only comment that one volcanic eruption dispenses more noxious vapors into the atmosphere than all the motorcycles lined up end to end (which would reach to the moon and back again.…and there'd still be some poor fool pull out to pass). So, deal with it.

The EVAP system (or evaporative emissions control system) is simply an attempt to minimize the evaporation of gasoline fumes into the atmosphere. Usually comes stock OEM on most street licensed motorcycles (& cars) in the USA. Whether it magically appears in other countries, or not, I cannot say. It neither enhances or hurts engine performance when operating properly. There's always a catch phrase, ain't there? Proponents claim it increases fuel mileage…..poppycock! We'd all just ride bicycles instead, if that was our primary objective anyway.

IF the canister has problems, it could affect your engine performance in a negative direction. Many cases have been well documented on other motorcycles (not the TR650 yet) where problems developed when the canister became over-saturated, filled with water, clogged up, etc. Owners claimed their bikes ran poorly or not at all, until the canister was replaced OR they performed the CANISTERECTOMY.

You have to make your own decision relative to your own unique situation. The canisters are supposed to contain air filters which do clog overtime and supposedly need replacement. Though, I doubt many owners have ever been informed of that or realized such. Consequently, there's probably a lot of older model bikes running around with EVAP systems that don't even work properly anymore. But…..what do I know.

Let's get on with the show.

There is a fancy decal on the back side of the right fork leg depicting an EVAP schematic on your Terra. That might be nifty if it really mattered. However, I found the drawing to be inaccurate. There is no line going to the "Head" as indicated. Maybe they borrowed those decals from the wrong parts bin. Maybe your bike doesn't even have one on it.

So, here is my own schematic based upon the EVAP routing I found on my Terra:





The canister is intended to collect fumes from the tank vent. Those fumes are absorbed by an activated charcoal bed where the hydrocarbons may be coaxed into bonding with oxygen in the charcoal pores....…if they happen to be in the mood.

If good bed fellows, the hydrocarbons are likely to camp out…until being lured back into the motor by the seductive encouragement of the vacuum hose from the throttle body. The purge valve is a bit of a twisted fellow, playing both spectator and referee over this give & take affair. It might be worthwhile if it were exciting, but alas, its much to do about nothing (IMHO).

The system is easy to remove if you have the patience to get some stuff out of your way before trying to force it out. I successfully removed mine non-destructively, and could easily re-install it if the need ever occurred.

Step 1: Take her clothes off.

Photos censored. Refer to my prior posts, if you need to see how to remove all the plastic side covers.


Step 2: Remove the radiator from its three mounting points.

There are two bolts on top like this



And a slip-on post at the bottom on the left side of the frame downtube here



I left the hoses all attached and just shoved the radiator over toward the right side of the bike (where I would be working on the canister)



There was no need to remove the radiator entirely from the bike, unless you are just eager for extra work. By letting it hang in the air, supported by the radiator hoses, I was able to manipulate it out of my way enough, when needed.


Step 3: Remove the Canister.

Snip the cable-tie loose and unplug the two hoses on top of the canister



Pull the canister upward and outward from the mounting bracket



That takes some twisting, pulling, & grunting….it will come out slowly but surely



Remove the canister bracket from these two frame bolts. Be sure to retighten those frame bolts very securely….they are kind of important to your future well being.




Step 4: Remove the Purge Valve

Located behind the right side frame, above the valve cover, you will find this purge valve neatly tucked. It has a rubber mount that slides onto a metal post. So, no tool are required to remove it. Just slip it off the post pull it out underneath the frame like this



Note: you will have to disconnect the vacuum line from the valve before doing so. You can see in the photo which port has been unplugged. It faces the rear of the bike when in the fully mounted position.

Disconnect the electrical plug attached to the purge valve.



Its rather fuzzy what purpose this electricity serves. Frankly, I don't care. I simply covered it up with black electrical tape and zip-tied it back inside the frame rail where the valve was previously installed.


Step 5: Plug the Vacuum Line

Locate the Vac-line removed from purge valve



I pulled it across and out the left side of the bike so I could work with it…..and put a vacuum plug on it like this



Vac-plugs are available at most auto parts stores in an assorted pack. This hose required the largest size in the pack….I'm guessing 5/16" ID, but didn't measure it. They are real inexpensive and do a pretty good job, if you don't let them get abused or melted against the hot engine.

So, pull it back thru to the right side of bike….into its original position, then zip-ty out of the way in a manner that won't cause the cap to work itself off



Here is where the vacuum hose attaches to a brass fitting on the throttle body





I would prefer to remove the hose entirely and attach the vac-plug directly to this fitting. However, I could not access the fitting without removing both the fuel tank and the airbox collector….which will be a formidable task on the Terra. Seems the knee bone is connected to the thigh bone, and the thigh bone connected to the hip bone. You've got to start at the rear of the bike moving forward to accomplish this. Removing the subframe, then the fuel tank, then the airbox before your can get to it. Decided to save something for another day.


Step 6: Admire your prize!



Sure did un-clutter the space in here.




Step 7: Decide what to do with the Tank Vent Line

Every fuel tank has to breathe. If air cannot come in, then fuel cannot get out (into your motor). Oh, it will work for a little while if you block the vent, but eventually the fuel will stop feeding into your engine (best case) and/or you'll burn up your electronic fuel pump in the process (worst case). So, you have to let the tank vent to atmosphere.

Gently pull your hose out from between the airbox and tank like this



The tank vent breathes bi-directional…..to both pull air in and relieve pressure build up back out. Since its an EFI system, I want to keep my fuel as clean as possible. So, I put a little fine mesh fuel filter on the end of the line, added another long piece of vent hose, and stuffed it routed it as shown





I secured it with another zip-ty. Figured this was the best place to end it, where I would not have gasoline running over my plastic or electrical components in the event of a spill. You may decide to route it somewhere else. Just make sure it does not get kinked or pinched…..the tank has to breathe.


Step 8: Put her clothes back on and go ride!


HF

p.s. Test ride says: All Good!
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Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow Texas or Bust!
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HighFive screwed with this post 01-26-2013 at 09:25 AM
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:43 AM   #198
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As always, excellent write up Scott, looks like you're having a blast with that winter project. Anxiously awaiting the next enhancement.

Will be interested to hear if you notice any difference. Visually the nip and tuck dramatically declutters the engine area. When I did the canisterectomy on my 350exc, it was very noticeable how it smoothed out the low rev throttle response and eliminated a slight stall problem when pinning out of a corner.

Still watching and drooling from the side lines, but setting seeds with my baby doll having a 3rd bike in the garage. Shouldn't the minimum be 3? Wish me luck....
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:21 PM   #199
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Where did you put Battery Tender lead?

I've been asked where I put my Battery Tender connection. I sneaked the lead out toward the back of the seat and hid the connector under the tailrack.



Tucked the wires under the ECU (big square silver box) and over the side cover, as seen here:



Its a good spot for it…..keeps it out of my way when not needed. Just have to make sure you route the lead far enough to the rear, so that it does not get pinched by the seat post (which sits on the subframe rail). You can see the impression marks where the seat post touches the metal subframe.

I just attached the lead directly to the battery, since it already had nice ring terminals for that. I could have snipped those off and wired it into my Fuzeblock, if I wanted to do some extra work. But, I didn't.

HF
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:34 PM   #200
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HF Tailrack Mod - improved

Remember my homemade tailrack plate…..the one I whittled out of PVC?

Well, I took it off the bike and over to a friend's shop who has a CNC router machine. Secured a bigger, smoother sheet of PVC material and paid him to make this:





Not only is it feather-light and super strong, now its darn good looking too!

Here's the before and after:



Hard to part with my sweat-equity prototype, but I'm liking the cleaner lines of this snazzy new one.









Offers considerably more useable space than the odd shaped stock rack. Perfect fit for a Wolfman Peak Tailbag, as well as many other strap ons.



This time, I put a piece of no-slip shelf material underneath the bag which keeps it from scooting around.



Since it was on a CNC router, I figured what the heck…….



Might as well run out the sheet. So, I currently have 4 extras of the HF Tailrack Mod.

Send me a PM if you want one. Cost is only $35 + Ups freight to your destination (mounting bolts included….but I have to make a trip to the hardware store).

It turned out to be a real nice piece.



HF
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:39 PM   #201
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B&B Bashplate on my way to me with... optional hose guard!

Da dah.

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Old 01-29-2013, 03:18 AM   #202
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Sent you a PM, I want one for my Strada. Your new Tail rack plate....that is.

Thanks HF :
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:09 AM   #203
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Also sent a PM for one.Thanks
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:19 PM   #204
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You could use that material for the frontal protection of the motor to go with the bashplate you fitted.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:09 PM   #205
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Pm sent

Me want one too..pm sent..

Thanks for bringing this to the masses..
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:25 PM   #206
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Subscribed to this great thread. Learning a lot, thank you guys. Just about to become the new owner of a Terra
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:14 PM   #207
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Welcome aboard, hansi. Go for it....you'll love the bike.

Three Tailrack plates are spoken for, only one remains available. Looking forward to hearing how they like them.

By the way, for you guys that have bought them, I've included high quality fasteners with a nylock nut. Do not over-tighten the fasteners. There is no need to do so with the nylock. Just snug the bolt up firm and your done. You don't want to crush the pvc by over-tightening.

HF
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:19 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
You could use that material for the frontal protection of the motor to go with the bashplate you fitted.
Aaaah... true....but I've found something else more suitable sitting in the bone pile. Its my next project. I think you'll like it.

HF
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:05 AM   #209
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B&B Bashplate

Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
B&B Bashplate on my way to me with... optional hose guard!
Nice one! I ordered mine from B&B yesterday too. Didn't go for the extra hose protector, I"m mainly interested in the protection for the sump plug and oil line. The way I ride, if that radiator hose is in peril, I'm in much more trouble. LOL.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:15 AM   #210
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Scott $ sent via Paypal.

Thanks for your pictorials and how to's.
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