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Old 07-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #1126
trapperj
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Great job!

Your bike looks great! I too gave a lot of thought of doing the same to my Strada...still may. But have also considered just adding Tkc 80s to the cast wheels and being done. Whatever you do ...leave it black! Best thing about it IMHO.
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Old 07-04-2013, 08:57 PM   #1127
RuggedExposure
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I've been having to commute a little more often than usual the past month and the miles are racking up on the Terra. 6k will be here within the next few weeks.

Has anyone checked the valve clearance themselves yet? I don't wanna be the first dumbass to do it, but I will if I have to.

Any write ups on this? And were the valves still in-spec? I've heard this Rotax will keep the valves good close to 20k miles.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:58 AM   #1128
davorallyfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev.. View Post
I threaded mine out through a gap above the radiator, behind the headlight and the switch is just jammed between the dash and the screen for now.



Now, according to the blurb, the hot position will reduce the temp by 18F and the cold position will reduce the temp by 36F but it seems on a bike with temp measured in Celcius the temp is adjusted by 18C and 36C which I think is probably a bit much. On the cold setting I think the bike is running too rich, it will almost idle off the mark in 1st gear with no throttle. I think I will just leave mine on the hot setting all year round.
Thanks Nev one more thing

So the red side of the switch (red sticker) is for warm weather and the black for cold weather?
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:02 AM   #1129
davorallyfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I've been having to commute a little more often than usual the past month and the miles are racking up on the Terra. 6k will be here within the next few weeks.

Has anyone checked the valve clearance themselves yet? I don't wanna be the first dumbass to do it, but I will if I have to.

Any write ups on this? And were the valves still in-spec? I've heard this Rotax will keep the valves good close to 20k miles.

Mine was a 2 1/2 hour job done by the mechanic. He checked them -they needed no adjustment. He said it was really fiddly. He did it without dropping the motor but said he might drop it next time he does one.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:49 AM   #1130
Deans BMW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Mine was a 2 1/2 hour job done by the mechanic. He checked them -they needed no adjustment. He said it was really fiddly. He did it without dropping the motor but said he might drop it next time he does one.
What was the mileage on you bike when the valves were checked?
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:29 PM   #1131
davorallyfan
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What was the mileage on you bike when the valves were checked?

10,000km
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:15 PM   #1132
RuggedExposure
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Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
10,000km
I'm at about 5,500mi now, so by 5 more days of commuting I should be close to 6k.

Crap.

I was hoping to drag it out to Sept/Oct when I'll have a week or two off when my kid gets here. Yes I know, I look like some sort of monster planning bike maintenance during time that should be spent with family. I'll move the crib/carrier/stroller thing out to the shop and she can spend some time with dad while he figures out how to take the top of the Rotax apart.

But seriously, no one else has had their valves done yet? There has to be a few more. How long did the shops rate the job for hour wise?
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:59 AM   #1133
trapperj
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Valves

I too have between 5500 and 6000 miles. I will ask Eurosport Asheville for a quote. They have sold a bunch of TRs...you'd think someone has had it done by now.
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Old 07-06-2013, 04:32 AM   #1134
jwdub
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I doubt if it will be critical if you went several thousand miles over before checking the valves. My dealer in Salem, OR said not to bother with the 600 mile check and that they should be OK to 12000 miles. I'd be surprised if anyone had to adjust the shims. I've had other bikes with Rotax engines and have yet to adjust the valves.
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:37 AM   #1135
run-it
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Wuka King

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev.. View Post

...the temp is adjusted by 18C and 36C which I think is probably a bit much. On the cold setting I think the bike is running too rich, it will almost idle off the mark in 1st gear with no throttle. I think I will just leave mine on the hot setting all year round.
It sounds like you're saying the engine runs stronger or idles higher in the COLD / RICH position (at least for that days ambient temp) & the opposite in the HOT / LEAN position & you may be erroneously concluding the rich is too rich.

Generally a TOO LEAN condition begins (at a given load & power setting) around peak RPM, lean up some more & RPM/power will fall off. This is what it sounds like to me you're describing.

run-it screwed with this post 07-06-2013 at 07:15 AM
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:49 AM   #1136
run-it
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev.. View Post

Now, according to the blurb, the hot position will reduce the temp by 18F and the cold position will reduce the temp by 36F but it seems on a bike with temp measured in Celcius the temp is adjusted by 18C and 36C which I think is probably a bit much. On the cold setting I think the bike is running too rich, it will almost idle off the mark in 1st gear with no throttle. I think I will just leave mine on the hot setting all year round.
No, it doesn't work like that, the target values are...

18F / 10C offset when switched to HOT (adds less fuel to map)

36F / 20C offset when switched to COLD (adds more fuel to map)

It doesn't matter if your display is set to show C or F these devices work the same, ie add the same percentage of fuel to the open loop map.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:09 AM   #1137
Nev..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run-it View Post
No, it doesn't work like that, the target values are...

18F / 10C offset when switched to HOT (adds less fuel to map)

36F / 20C offset when switched to COLD (adds more fuel to map)

It doesn't matter if your display is set to show C or F these devices work the same, ie add the same percentage of fuel to the open loop map.
I had a bit of a check of it today, switching the display between C and F and you're right, but its still not behaving as I expect. I got a thermometer and put the temp probe next to the Wuka plug temp probe. It measured 16C / 60F.
With the switch set to hot the temp gauge on the dash showed 56F / 13.5C With the temp switch set to cold the dash display shows 22.5F / -5.0C. with the expected -18/-36 offset I would expect the results to be HOT 42F / 6C COLD 24F/-4C. The 18C diff between the Hot and Cold switch positions had me fooled.
Might have to shoot an email off to the Mr HighTechCoonass.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:29 AM   #1138
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Went for my first ride today (apart from to and from work, only about 5 kms).
Before I went I opened the radiator cap and overflow cap and started it cold. Ran the bike for a while and it was bubbling constantly from the radiator, but also overflowing a fair bit. I let it run for a while, but stopped it before the fan kicked in, as I didn't want to lose any more coolant.

During the ride I noticed if I stopped and left it idling, it the temp alarm would come on after about two minutes. The ambient temp was about 32C and a bit humid and the fan was kicking in as it should. As soon as I took off the temp would come down again.

As I'm a noob and this is the stupid questions thread, is this the normal characteristics of the bike, or maybe there is still air in the radiator. Haven't had a chance to check the levels yet after I lost some coolant as it was dark by the time the bike cooled. Hope it doesn't run this hot, or I might have some problems in the wet season.

I also have stalled it a couple of times in first, but not sure if its because its running lean or I'm a bad rider! :-) tend to think its the former as I'm not doing anything different. I think I might just but the Wuka anyway, have only heard good things.

Other than that I friggen love this bike! But I need a windscreen!
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:36 AM   #1139
RidingDonkeys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern TerraTory View Post
Went for my first ride today (apart from to and from work, only about 5 kms).
Before I went I opened the radiator cap and overflow cap and started it cold. Ran the bike for a while and it was bubbling constantly from the radiator, but also overflowing a fair bit. I let it run for a while, but stopped it before the fan kicked in, as I didn't want to lose any more coolant.

During the ride I noticed if I stopped and left it idling, it the temp alarm would come on after about two minutes. The ambient temp was about 32C and a bit humid and the fan was kicking in as it should. As soon as I took off the temp would come down again.

As I'm a noob and this is the stupid questions thread, is this the normal characteristics of the bike, or maybe there is still air in the radiator. Haven't had a chance to check the levels yet after I lost some coolant as it was dark by the time the bike cooled. Hope it doesn't run this hot, or I might have some problems in the wet season.

I also have stalled it a couple of times in first, but not sure if its because its running lean or I'm a bad rider! :-) tend to think its the former as I'm not doing anything different. I think I might just but the Wuka anyway, have only heard good things.

Other than that I friggen love this bike! But I need a windscreen!
There is still air in the radiator. Wheen bleeding it, you have to let it run until the fans cut on. That is your signal that the fluid is circulating, thus allowing all the air out. You're going to loose some fluid as the bubbles pop, but you can always top it off when you are done. You'll need to let it run for about a minute or two once the fans kick on, but no longer than that.

Also, it's not uncommon to have to do this a second time after a few hundred km.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:32 PM   #1140
Northern TerraTory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingDonkeys View Post
There is still air in the radiator. Wheen bleeding it, you have to let it run until the fans cut on. That is your signal that the fluid is circulating, thus allowing all the air out. You're going to loose some fluid as the bubbles pop, but you can always top it off when you are done. You'll need to let it run for about a minute or two once the fans kick on, but no longer than that.

Also, it's not uncommon to have to do this a second time after a few hundred km.
Ok, thanks for that RD. do you know what type of coolant is used or can I top it up with any brand?
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