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Old 07-21-2013, 01:13 PM   #1231
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Valves, part deux

Here is where things start to get crazy. To remove the valve cover, you need to remove the throttle body, fuel tank and air box. To remove the fuel tank, YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE SUB FRAME OFF. Absolute BS on the design of this bike.

And since the so called shop manual doesn't even touch on this, I had to work around it.

I started looking at how intricate it would be to remove the subframe by removing the rear body panels. You can see that the fuel tank is squeezed in place by the front arm of the subframe. This is madness. And I really didn't feel like unhooking the exhaust and hangers, and the whole tail section:


At this point I decided to try and work around the fuel tank, but still try to remove the airbox. They are intertwined by the filler neck and pretty complicated. The air box is held in place by a big Phillips screw located right behind the radiator:


So now you have to remove the radiator (don't worry, this gets even better). Remove the two torx bits from the top and it pops off:


Suspend your coolant tank so it doesn't stress the hose and break:


This lovely canister thing is also in the way:


Remove this beast and save for the shooting range:


Disconnect this vent line from the bottom of the airbox once you remove the large phillip's screw:


I believe this is the vacuum actuator for the bike, using a flathead slide it off of its metal perch (right side of bike):


This electrical connector is on the left side of the bike and needs removed too:


With all of this crap now disconnected and out of the way, you have enough room to lift the airbox and slide it to the right side of the bike, giving you room to get at the valve cover:
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:19 PM   #1232
RuggedExposure
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Valves - part III

Here we see the exotic coils in their natural state:


The manual says to use a flathead to pry them up from the valve cover, but I just used my beaters. I guess if you have small, girly little lotion covered hands this could be a challenge:

Notice that the coil with the white collar goes towards the outside of the bike. It is also the one with the white tape on the wires. DO NOT mix these up when putting the bike back together. I don't know what would happen, but the manual repeats itself several times stating the obvious. So something bad has to happen.

Remove the coils from the electrical connectors and set them in a safe place. These things look godawful expensive.

Remove this electrical connector from the frame on the left side of the bike:


With it disconnected, you can now pull this wiring harness out from the right side of the bike giving you more room:


Now you can attack the valve cover itself:
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:30 PM   #1233
RuggedExposure
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Valves - part IV

Here are the bolts (10mm) that hold the red cover of grief in place:


The bolt on the back left is conveniently located right under the throttle body. Great. But with a short extension you can get the 10mm socket in there:

More to come on this throttle body from Satan...

Remove the breather line from the top of the valve cover:


Here is a close up of why the throttle body sucks. The bracket holding the throttle cable in place sticks out perfectly locking the bolt in place:


Remove the throttle cable with 6mm and 10mm wrenches:


Remove the bracket for the O2 sensor from the frame (this gives you more room):


Remove this vacuum line from the brass fitting on the throttle body:


Remove your upper oil line. Don't worry, nothing should come out:


There was some funky $hit going on inside mine. I have no clue what all of the randomly colored particles inside the line were from, but it looks like there was a party with confetti inside there:


Squeeze the remaining oil line between the valve cover and the left side of the frame:


The damn bracket on the throttle body is just big enough to prevent you from tilting the valve cover up. So with a special torx bit, loosen the top screw:


Having fun yet?

Now tilt the bracket back to give you just enough clearance to move the valve cover. Pliers can help but be careful not to break or bend anything. There is no way in hell to remove or loosen that bottom screw:
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RuggedExposure screwed with this post 07-21-2013 at 02:00 PM
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:40 PM   #1234
RuggedExposure
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Valves - part 5

You should now be able to slide the cover up and around a little bit:


This is as good as it gets. You're not getting that damn thing out of there without removing the subframe. So deal with it:


Go to the right side of the bike and locate the big hex on the engine cover:


I did not have an allen large enough to fit that (Who the hell does?) so I used an old bolt:


Once removed you can see a smaller allen inside that allows you to turn the motor:


Turn the engine until the lines on the gears are level with the top of the casting and the witness pins are located at the top of the gears:

For whatever reason they are never perfectly level...

Here are the specs on the valves:


Here are where you check the valve clearances. The ones on the right are the exhaust valves, ones on the left intake:


Now you can finally check your valves. There is enough room to get to the far ones without removing the cover. Mine were at 0.009, 0.009, 0.0015, and 0.0015. At the very bottom limit... does anyone know if these wear loose or tight?


Now step back and look at your bike:

It is really taken apart and you wonder what you did.

Where the hell do all of these parts go to?


At this point you can now go outside, away from the bike, and cry.
Good luck getting it back together. All of those connectors, vacuum lines, little torx screws... I'm done for the day. I have to go to work in an hour, so I'll mess with putting it back together tomorrow.
I am not looking forward to checking the valves again later this year.
If anyone can correct me about removing the fuel tank, airbox and throttle body without removing the subframe, please tell me.

Done.
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:55 PM   #1235
LenVenturaCA
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Question Mounting location for anti-theft box?

I have the Husky anti-theft system. But, no installation instructions came with it. Does anyone know the mounting location and how to plug the box in?
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:09 PM   #1236
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,235
Here is a quick time lapse of me working on the Terra:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlVGZ...ature=youtu.be

Bolt Dog was racked out pretty hard in the corner, my cursing didn't even wake him up most of the time.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:42 PM   #1237
ROYAL COACHMAN
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Great write up Rugged Ex!!
You mentioned you have some dirt getting by the air filter ................
I may have a solution!

How about installing a oiled foam pre filter like I did on my Terra


This is a shot of the simple rectangular pre filter I made from some of this
below


The pre filter goes in that rectangular cavity on the intake air side of the air box.
It sits just in front of the stock filter
This is not a replacement of the stock filter, just a Pre Filter



Cut the pre filter about 3/4" to 1" larger than the stock filter, oil and slip in place



This is a poor pic of the space the air filter occupies
On the left is the green pre filter, then the stock filter installs in the normal fashion

Although a pain to get at, I'm pretty confident the pre filter will save us Terra owners some head ache's

My bike runs just fine with this set up


Your thoughts welcome
Thanks
Glen
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:04 PM   #1238
wolftrax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
I pulled the Pirelli MT21 front off today and put on a T63. The bike now handles fine.

I have had a lot of luck with MT21's on other bikes, but they don't work on this one.
I'm running T63's front and back and after a couple of hundred miles they settled in nicely. My Terra is rock steady at all speeds. The rear is going to be toast after about 3500 miles but the front shows little wear!
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:41 PM   #1239
BigDogAdventures
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Thanks for all the great info Rugged.

When you posted your exhaust measurements you took on your bike.

You posted 0.0015..............didn't you mean 0.015 ?????

All this is very interesting---you have lot's of patience---and so does your dog

BigDog
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:51 PM   #1240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Now you can finally check your valves. There is enough room to get to the far ones without removing the cover. Mine were at 0.009, 0.009, 0.0015, and 0.0015. At the very bottom limit... does anyone know if these wear loose or tight?

Done.
Good job so far. I'm never going to complain about checking valve clearances on my 990 Adventure again.

Valve clearances usually decrease with wear, so wear tight using your terminology.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:06 PM   #1241
Blakebird
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on the subframe removal thing.....can you get by with taking the upper bolts out and pivoting it back on the lower bolts?

That's how I got the shock off my TE 310.... didn't have to remove the subframe, just rock it back.

That was a much simpler bike in that area though, conventional tank and all...
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:04 PM   #1242
HighFive OP
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Oooo.....nice work, RE. According to your measurements, your valve clearance is "tight". It's at the lower limit. Valves get tighter over time (smaller clearance) as the mating parts wear. So you want to increase that clearance when you adjust the valves closer to the upper end of the range.

What you don't know, at the moment, is where were the valves set at the factory. Might have been tight to begin with.....donno. If it was set in the middle of the range, then you need to adjust the clearances now (or very soon). It's not a good idea to run around with "too tight" a clearance. The pistons usually come pretty close to the open valves on a lot of 4Ts.

I'd go all the way, at this point. But that's me....

HF
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:27 AM   #1243
davorallyfan
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROYAL COACHMAN View Post
Great write up Rugged Ex!!
You mentioned you have some dirt getting by the air filter ................
I may have a solution!

How about installing a oiled foam pre filter like I did on my Terra


This is a shot of the simple rectangular pre filter I made from some of this
below


The pre filter goes in that rectangular cavity on the intake air side of the air box.
It sits just in front of the stock filter
This is not a replacement of the stock filter, just a Pre Filter



Cut the pre filter about 3/4" to 1" larger than the stock filter, oil and slip in place



This is a poor pic of the space the air filter occupies
On the left is the green pre filter, then the stock filter installs in the normal fashion

Although a pain to get at, I'm pretty confident the pre filter will save us Terra owners some head ache's

My bike runs just fine with this set up


Your thoughts welcome
Thanks
Glen

Thanks for that
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:29 AM   #1244
davorallyfan
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Thanks RE I am never going to adjust my valves on this thing I will pay someone to do it. Life is too short!

I will adjust them on my air head.
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:27 AM   #1245
bullittman281
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Real fast before work....
I missed RE's measured clearance in the thread, but talking to him they are right at the minimums. It will probably be ok to run for a while, but they are definitely due for a re-shim, if they have reached the minimums or less.

The 64 million dollar question is how the factory set them up. Tight or loose?? We will never know. It would be disappointing it the valves drift out of spec so quickly. I got a theory that all the fine dust in the air box ain't helping. I'm told that dust is death to valves. At least that's the story I get from the MX/Race types. It may be in everybody's interest that has one of these to fix the sloppy factory filter now.

Bullittman

RE call after 5:30 if you get a chance.
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