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Old 08-18-2013, 04:58 AM   #1396
HighFive OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogAdventures.com View Post
Rear Fender Fix

Some peoples rear fenders have been breaking completely off.

Well----thanks again to ER for sacrificing his rear fender---I don't want that to happen to me-----especially on a long trip away from home.

I made 2 brackets---one on each side to support the floppy rear fender---here is the finished product.
I can't believe how stout it made the rear fender-----with just one bracket fastened up when I tried to shake the
rear fender it shook the whole bike------that fender won't flex any now.



First I mig welded a bracket to my Wolfman pannier racks.






Then I made this rod-----I wanted the rod to be a bolt on item and not welded to the bike anywhere in case you
needed to remove the fender or saddlebag racks. I took a solid piece of round steel about 3/8" in diameter and heated up the ends
with an oxycetylene torch red hot and pounded the ends flat with a hammer. While doing so I bent one end at an angle
to fit to the bolt on the turn signal. Then drilled a hole in each end.

I bolted it all up and I was done.
I think I'll send a bill to Husky for 1.2 million dollars.
Or should I send it to BMW-------yeh---that's what I'll do.
They have to be responsible for this fiasco.

Been stewing on it.......and decided I like this idea better than the HF-Bra.

Think I'll go this route, BIgDog, but my weld won't look as good as yours. And, my bracket probably won't look as clean. Gonna have to find something around the garage I can hack, pound, & drill. Alas.....another chance to use my new welder!

HF
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:42 AM   #1397
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If you have a factory luggage rack, or something similar here's an option for stiffening up the rear fender. I used a very thin metal strap from the hardware store (found with other framing brackets and straps). It was thin enough to easily bend by hand, and use tin snips to cut. But it is plenty strong for this short distance.

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Old 08-19-2013, 05:06 AM   #1398
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Seat Mods again

I'm a tough customer…..sometimes. While I've been enjoying my Seat Concepts Tall Seat conversion (vs. the original stock low boy), I've developed a few new yearnings after longer rides in various conditions. I have decided its too tall and too soft for me.

The original seat height was 34" from the ground. The Tall conversion is 36" height, which puts my 32" inseam on its tipy-toes. The 2" higher position seemed to change the handling dynamics, as well. But remember, I'm real picky about ergos and handling. The bike felt different when cornering at speed…..especially thru the twisties. I simply felt "too high". Maybe the affect on CG (with rider) or maybe just crazy me. But something felt out of place.

The extra plush softness was a welcome gift out on the trails, but I found my self getting quite fidgety after after a couple hours on the slab. I weigh about 180 lbs, and was just sinking too much (for my preference) into the softer seat. This didn't become apparent until I rode 4 hours non-stop one day. So, I got on the horn with the folks and Seat Concepts to discuss the options. Lendon Smith provided first class service with top-notch advise. And, here's what I did…

Seat Concepts made me a new piece of (Tall) foam at the next higher firmness. Notice the +1 indicated on the side of this new piece:



Not sure what +1 means in terms of Durometer Reading……maybe this is the firmness used for heavy guys (over 200 lbs), I dunno. I can tell you its the perfect firmness for me (now). I sit up on it instead of sinking into it, while it still has a plush feel. Comparing the two foams side by side, I couldn't tell a difference with my hands. That felt the same. But sitting on them when mounted to the bike….its a significant difference.

I also wanted to lower the seat height by 1", which would require a considerable amount of work. Artistic work, I might add. But I wasn't skeered….Lendon coached me thru it and I discovered a whole new fun hobby: Custom Seat Sculpting. I was able to practice on my first Tall seat foam. This helped a lot, as it took a bit to learn how best to work the material into form. I finished out the practice seat to hone my skill before tackling the job on my new +1 firmer foam.

Here is a comparison of all three sets of foam. Original stock seat on left, practice seat in middle, & +1 foam on right:





My goal is to remove 1" of height as far back as I could ever sit, while still leaving a bit of elevated shelf at the rear for my Wolfman Expedition saddlebag strap.



Hauling passengers is not a concern for me. Won't be happening on this bike, so I don't need a proper pillion platform.

Time to get started, after mounting the new foam on the seat pan with some 3M spray adhesive.



Marking the trim line took some figuring out. I settled on using a pair of rulers, one long and stiff and the other small and flexible. The combo cleverly served me well.







The little flexible ruler was quite handy for connecting dots in a straight line along the curves in the foam





Next up…..I had to acquire a New Tool. Man, I hate buying new tools.



An electric carving knife. Some use these for cutting meats, others for filleting fish. I went to Wally World and simply bought the first one I could find.

it worked, but poorly. The motor wasn't strong enough to easily cut thru the dense foam. It has some kind of over amp shut-off protection. Kept shut down after slow going for short stretches. It was the most contentious part of the process. But, I took my time and learned to work it thru the material. Another benefit of the "practice" session. There must be a more industrial version of these electric carving knives available somewhere, I assume.







Easier said than done, I can assure you. My practice session didn't turn out anything like this. But now, I'm getting the hang of it. Patience, PATIENCE is the key. Got to keep the brain engaged on this routine, or things can go bad in a hurry. I made sure I cut a little bit short of my 1-inch line and as level as possible. Cutting it on the bike made sense to me, as it held the foam firmly in place….in the correct seat position. I don't know how this would be accomplished properly off the bike in some remote location. Seat pans mount at such a variety of angles from bike to bike. But I digress…



Next up….time to make it snow!

HF
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:06 AM   #1399
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Nice granite countertop. T4 or T5?

So is your custom carved seat going to have the ridge in the back dividing the passenger area?
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:06 AM   #1400
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Uhmmm....beats me. I don't even know what a T 4 or 5 means. Or, maybe I forgot. They say 50 ain't old if you're an Oak. But I'm past that, and besides, a tree doesn't have to remember anything.

I'm going to leave a small upper deck on the seat, for the reason I described in my post. Still taking shape......kind of suspenseful, eh? . As it often can be with a knife in hand.

HF
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:31 PM   #1401
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Custom Seat Sculpting - part 2

After trimming off the layer of seat foam, its time to hand sculpt the final height & shape. I went to Home Depot and found this "Surform Shaver" in the tool section containing hand files. Another handy tip from Lendon (Seat Concepts). Its kind of like a cheese grater:





Never used one of these before. It was simple & fun.



I became an expert snow maker in no time at all.



A work in progress….the wrinkles are quickly being ironed out.



I've whittled it down from here:



to here:



in a surprisingly short time span.

Once again, I had to do some thinking to devise my own method for creating a smooth, even surface in the foam.

I leveled my portable work table, then used my wooden ruler to keep checking the surface while I scraped away foam.





Further back, you can see the sides still need to be shaved down to level out the seat.



I continued working like this until the whole seating area was uniform.

And, here's another really cool thing about sculpting my own seat foam. I used the Surform to bevel the edge a fair bit, like this:



I hate seat corners rubbing on the bottom of my thighs. On long trips, it can give you a nasty sore spot. But, I made sure this won't be a problem on my Terra!

The final step requires a Rotary Sander, like this Ryobi model I already had on my shelf, with 5.5" sanding disks.





I used 220 fine grit sand paper, and it really cleaned up the surface nicely. Felt like it sealed the foam surface to some extent. Maybe from the friction heat, I'm not certain. Anyway, it gives it a very nice "finished" feel, plus cleans all the dust out of the foam due to the little vacuum ports on this Sander.

Here is a comparison of my modified +1 seat foam versus the original stock OEM foam. Now you can see the difference in the elevated platform at the rear.



The stock "bump" was just too close to my backside. It measures about 10.5" from the rear:



In my new modified version, I moved the bump further back to get it completely out of my way. Its now located at 6.5" from the rear:



I wanted to keep some height at the rear to give my Wolfman Saddlebag strap some leverage to "bite" into. No other reason than that. And, I won't be hauling any passengers on this bike, so that's not an issue. While riding the bike, I can move backward as far as I dare, but I still don't run into the bump. However, I have short arms. So, this might not work perfectly for a long armed individual that can sit even further rearward than me. To each there own, I say.

Here it is completed with the new vinyl all zipped up…..tanning in the sun! Those edge wrinkles will go away with a little active use. At least, they did on my first go-round. Looks pretty good on the bike, and I got the seat height right on the money at 35" from the ground.













How's it ride now……fantastic. My feet are half planted on both sides (just a bit of lift in my heels). The handling is back where I hoped it would be (who knew and inch could make that much difference). And, the seat comfort is JUST what the Doctor ordered!

I haven't made a 4-hour run yet, like before, but I can already tell its going to be plenty fine for me. I definitely like this foam better than the first (standard) version. This was the first time I've ever attempted custom sculpting of seat foam. It was easy peasy! If I can do it, then you can to.

HF
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:27 PM   #1402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Wukka is on...

This could be sacrelige but...

Can't say I am convinced that there is any big improvement over the last map. Only done a short ride 30 or so Km. Hype?
Is the switch in the hot or cold position? It should be on the cold side (blue, not red) this time of year).
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:06 AM   #1403
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Is the switch in the hot or cold position? It should be on the cold side (blue, not red) this time of year).
Mines not performing as hoped either. See my post in the booster plug thread over at Husky Cafe. ( Hope I don't upset the mods referring to another forum!)
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:08 AM   #1404
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Yeah its on cold - at lunch 9c Canberra it was giving me the ice signal on the dash. I think it is an improvement just not what I was expecting given the reviews here - NB I already had the latest Moss map. Still loving the bike - got 15,000km on it now. Going on Thrashers Terrifying Treck this weekend.

Now running a T63 front and a new exy $ahara rear - happy with this config.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:18 PM   #1405
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BigDog Tail Mod

The HF-Bra worked good. But I like the function of the BigDog tail support much better. Once in a Blue Moon, he actually comes up with a good idea, or two. Ok.....maybe twenty-two.

However, this little project was not so easy peasy…..especially when all you have to heat things up is a puny little Benz-o-matic propane torch kit. I did buy a bottle of the MAP gas, which probably helped. But, it was still a slow go heating the steel rod and pounding it out.

I started with 3/8" diameter rod, but quickly gave that up when I realized it was far too beefy and heavy for this purpose. That was a dirty trick, BD. So, I switched out for 1/4" rod, which seemed better suited for the purpose. Its a bit tricky guessing the proper lengths, but I got it sorted.



Decided to make a complete set, instead of just one sided. Can't let something like this put me off balance.



Holy smokes is it ever stout. Mark wasn't lying. The fender tail doesn't budge even a smidgen.



The most fun part was building the tabs for the rack mounts……because I got to make a mess with my welder again!

"See there, Sweet Thang, I couldn't have done this without my new welder!" I showed it off late last night to her, until the mosquitos started feasting on her. Its never a bad idea to reinforce justification for super intelligent purchases.

Anyway, hope it makes BigDog proud. This mod is one of the very best I've put on the bike since my custom sculpted seat. I guarantee!

HF
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:02 AM   #1406
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My safari rack



Looks heavy but no too bad.







A conduit bender will not make a 180 but it will make 2 90s. A grinder and rat tail file for a notcher. Po folks gots po ways.
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:47 AM   #1407
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Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
However, this little project was not so easy peasy…..especially when all you have to heat things up is a puny little Benz-o-matic propane torch kit.
A man in your position should own a torch.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:08 AM   #1408
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
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My safari rack



Looks heavy but no too bad.







A conduit bender will not make a 180 but it will make 2 90s. A grinder and rat tail file for a notcher. Po folks gots po ways.
I like. What thickness is that tubing? Do you think it will hold up to the stresses with only using two of the mounts up top?
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:06 PM   #1409
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It's 3/4" tubing, 1/16 wall.
I think it will hold up, my reasoning is that I really didn't eliminate the two mounting points, I just moved them rearward and outward (the two posts that connect to the sidebag rack). The original rear mounting points were so close to the front mounts that even the small stock rack was cantilevered a good bit and even more so with this large rack.
I have BTW crash tested the sidebag rack (blown front tire, down on grave at 45 mph) and it suffered no damage.
But this is all seat of the pants engineering and trial and error by a tinkerer with no formal training. If it doesn't work, it's back to the drawing board, I've been there before.
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:22 PM   #1410
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Question for HighFive and any one else with TKC 80

So how are you getting along with the K60 rear, TKC80 front tire combo?
I mounted up an identical set, trying to make friends with them.
That TKC scared the crap out of me on pavement this evening. At 75 mph I get a head shake approaching tank slapper. Granted, that was the first ride on it, and it seemed to get better the next couple of times I pushed up to that speed.
This is the first time I've ran one brand new, I had one on my 640 but someone else scrubbed it in for me.
Did the best I could with balancing but these wheel bearings are a little tighter than my v stroms were and they don't spin as freely. I may have to invest in one of those balancer tools if my axle on the jackstand method proves unusable.

on gravel, a little bit of squirrilyness is present but I think it's just a matter of getting used to something different.

33 miles on the tire right now, tell me it's gonna scrub in and settle down.
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