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Old 08-22-2013, 10:03 PM   #1426
DanishDR
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TR 650 throttle hesitation.

Sorry if this is already covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find an exact match. I purchased a TR650 about a month ago now. Recently while riding I noticed a hesitation in the throttle. When cruising on the bike around 3-4k RPM when you twist the throttle it bogs slightly before accelerating. It seems as if its missing on some fires but then revs up and it goes away. I only run 91 or better Shell fuel so I don't think its bad gas. Additionally I live at around 6.5k feet. Any ideas? I don't feel good riding it with these issues.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:21 PM   #1427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanishDR View Post
Sorry if this is already covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find an exact match. I purchased a TR650 about a month ago now. Recently while riding I noticed a hesitation in the throttle. When cruising on the bike around 3-4k RPM when you twist the throttle it bogs slightly before accelerating. It seems as if its missing on some fires but then revs up and it goes away.
dig thru the thread.... and go to Cafe Husky and read all about it as well.

probably the most talked about thing about the TR's.
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:49 PM   #1428
Ken Woods
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Originally Posted by wolftrax View Post
Well weak rear fender license brackets seem to run in the BMW family. I am currently touring SA, Namibia, Botswana adn Zimbabwe on a rented 650 Sertao. Somewhere between Sessreim and Swakomund the entire rear lays in the sand. No tail light, no tag, no rear fender. Stopped in a Moto shop in Swakomund and 1 hour later had a tail tidy custom fabbed and on the bike. They even printed me a new SA plate right there. Missing my Terra, it would blast through Africa. The Sertao is an OK bike but really is weak in the power department. Cheers from Tsumeb, Namibia.



Hey, I've been there.........
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:11 AM   #1429
HighFive OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanishDR View Post
Sorry if this is already covered somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find an exact match. I purchased a TR650 about a month ago now. Recently while riding I noticed a hesitation in the throttle. When cruising on the bike around 3-4k RPM when you twist the throttle it bogs slightly before accelerating. It seems as if its missing on some fires but then revs up and it goes away. I only run 91 or better Shell fuel so I don't think its bad gas. Additionally I live at around 6.5k feet. Any ideas? I don't feel good riding it with these issues.
It's ok to ask stupid redundant questions on this Thread. I've been there, done that. It's why I created it. So, no worries.

Go back to Page 1 and use the Index we have provided. Find & read the posts on the following:

Booster Plug
Power Commander
Wuka King

All three options will resolve your issue, you decide which to way to go. The MOSS tool (available at some Dealerships) might help too, but it's harder to come by, and not as affective (IMO).

HF

Ps. We were all noobs once, so no worries...
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Old 08-23-2013, 05:15 AM   #1430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolftrax View Post
Well weak rear fender license brackets seem to run in the BMW family. I am currently touring SA, Namibia, Botswana adn Zimbabwe on a rented 650 Sertao. Somewhere between Sessreim and Swakomund the entire rear lays in the sand. No tail light, no tag, no rear fender. Stopped in a Moto shop in Swakomund and 1 hour later had a tail tidy custom fabbed and on the bike. They even printed me a new SA plate right there. Missing my Terra, it would blast through Africa. The Sertao is an OK bike but really is weak in the power department. Cheers from Tsumeb, Namibia.

Cool ride , Wolftrax. Dang.....wish I was riding along with my Terra too!

HF
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:49 AM   #1431
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Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Thanks HF, that was it!
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:40 AM   #1432
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How do I change the bar position?

With my taller, custom-scultped seat, I've been needing to adjust the handlebar position again. With my new found space to scoot rearward, my butt was saying "stay back here", while my arms were shouting "no….stay up here". The debate was starting to grate on me, so I concocted a new solution.

The Motorsportz risers will move into my art gallery for beautiful (reserve) parts. They are just too pretty to be molested (yet). Instead, the not-so old "stock" risers are being called back into action. Their excitement was a bit short-lived though, as the amputation began:



Took them to a friend's shop and had him remove about one half of the base height (0.350" to be exact) on his professional Milling machine. Left me with about 1/2" height now.






So I could do this:



I needed the to raise my bars higher and pull them back toward me a little bit…..so need a shift in both directions. Figured a pivot risers was my best option, but it took some hunting to find a workable solution. This particular set of Rox risers were found hiding in an obscure corner of the roxspeedfx.com website, listed as Part # 1R-P2SEK…….Black Elite Pivoting Risers 2" x 7/8" x 7/8" and/or 1-1/8" (price = $95.00 + $13.10 shipping).

Its the only "transition" pair, as I call it, that I found. Allows going from a 7/8" bar mount at the base to a 1-1/8" bar mount on top. I just hand to remove a sleeve collar on the top side (which allows 7/8" bars, if desired). And, 2" length is the only height made for this model. But when pivoted, the height will be lowered, of course, to something between the two positions pictured (above). Just what I wanted....variable vertical and aft.

I also had to shorten the length of the original handlebar clamp bolts, to match what I had trimmed from the clamp base. The threaded holes don't pass thru, so the bolt bottoms out too soon if not cut shorter. This was only a one beer task though. Pretty easy with a hacksaw, small triangular file, and a tap & die set to clean up the thread tip.



Now, the contentious part…….seems there's one in every task. What to do about the cable lengths. Everything got too tight when raising the bars up and back, especially the front brake line. The hydraulic hose appears too short, while the other two are easily resolved.

Simply rotate the throttle assembly forward, like this:



And, re-route the clutch cable to go "under" the wire harness like this, instead of over the wire harness:



I didn't take a photo of the before position, but you can see it on your bike if its the same way from the factory as mine was. To reverse the position I had to remove the cable from BOTH ends. There's not enough slack at the perch to remove the cable from the lever, without first removing the lower attachment to the spline (at the case). Its an easy process if you start at the bottom, before wrestling the lever attachment. Just pay very close attention to the spline position before removing, so you can get it back into the correct position. Of course, I didn't……and had to do it all over again to get my clutch working properly. The little armature has to be very close to the sidecase (nearly touching it).

Next, the problem child: that front brake line. It seemed it could not reach the distance required. I've heard others lamenting on this, but not studied it myself before now. I quickly noticed there is an attachment point behind the right side of the headlight housing which holds the line secure. This keeps the brake line from flogging the wiring unmercifully while the forks are compressed…….forcing all the cable movement to happen along the left fork. I didn't take a photo of it, but you can easily locate it on your bike by tracing the brake line downward from the Master Cylinder.

Removing the attachment screw gave the cable plenty of room for maximum bar movement. But, you can't leave this cable loose. It clearly needs to be anchored. My solution was quite simple, just make an L-bracket from some strap metal I had on the bench:





Voila! Problem solved…..with slack to spare.









Oh man….does this ever feel nice now. I'm totally relaxed sitting back deep on my custom-sculpted seat with a slight bend in my arms. And when I stand up, I don't have to bend over. I've been able to fine tune the exact bar position I really desire. Went out for 150 miles of riding yesterday, with my tools handy. Every so often, I would stop and tweak the position……repeat……repeat. Got that baby dialed in now!

I believe I'm finally ready for a MAJOR adventure on my Terra. Think I'll go ride BigDog's CDR tracks. See you folks later…..about 4,000 miles later.

HF
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The Okie-Dokie BDR Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow
Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
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HighFive screwed with this post 08-25-2013 at 06:57 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:01 PM   #1433
RidingDonkeys
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Just finished some cockpit farkles. My TR is quickly turning into my long distance tagging rig of choice, and these mods will set me up for success. There is nothing worse than getting bruced while fumbling for your phone or GPS.

First was a 12v outlet in the left fairing. This is a convenient place to put it. It won't clutter the handlebars at all, and it significantly decreases the distance to hit the battery. I like my GPS and 12v outlets to always be hot so I can charge stuff while camping. Thanks to Lekolite for the suggestion on placing the outlet here.





A RAM smart phone holder went on the left side. On rainy days, the phone will be tucked in my 'stich, but the rest of the time I will put it here.



I moved my GPS away from the center of the bars. That was just too low. Using a short RAM bar and a mirror mount, I moved it here on the right side. This brings it up and a little closer to me. I suspect this will work nicely.



And when you put it all together, it looks like this.

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Old 08-28-2013, 07:00 AM   #1434
mbravo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyOldMan View Post
Anybody know the diameter of the shims? I have a hot cams set I bought for my old 510.
*if* we suppose the shims are the same as on my older carbed rotax BMW F650 Strada - which is likely, then they are 29mm in diameter
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:05 AM   #1435
mbravo
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Originally Posted by RidingDonkeys View Post
I see a good reason to buy a 3D printer. With one of those, making custom plastic mounts would be a breeze.
Actually, this idea has been bugging me for a while. I have access to a more or less consumer-level 3d printer, and it does pretty nice job fabricating stuff out of ABS plastic. And that plastic is quite sturdy. Is there any reason why some of the simpler, non-load-bearing, not exposed to intense heat stuff like, I don't know offroad headlight protecting grill, or even protective covers for brake cylinders and the like, couldn't be fabbed on such a 3d-printer? And other parts originally in plastic.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #1436
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some parts for the Terra

There's a guy named Stephan Scheffelmeier, in Germany, who makes some real nice accessories for G650X and F800; his work was really popularized by Walter Colebatch :) who also helped design and test an additional oil cooler for his XChallenge.

Now, Stephan did make the oil cooler available for Terra for quite some time (it's here - http://www.bashplates.de/Husqvarna-T...Terra::85.html )

Other small but useful things he did for BMW bikes were sets of stainless wheel spacers (OEM ones are aluminum and wear rather fast). I wanted to know if any of those for G650X or F800 would fit Terra, and sent him a question. Here's a nice reply he sent me, below. It seems like those won't fit, but he will be making the sets for Husky, as well as all of his other stuff (bashplate, its rally variant etc). Perhaps it will be useful to some (European?) owners! Also note he mentions a possible group buy.

=====
Hello Mike,

I'm not sure but I think the wheel spacer will not fit.
But no problem, I will make a batch for the husqvarna. I'm in holiday next week and if I'm back I will finish the terra parts. (bash plate, rally bash plate, wheel spacer and front sprocket cover)
For a groub buy order I will make 20% discount.

Regards Stephan.
=====
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:12 AM   #1437
hasenpfeffer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbravo View Post
*if* we suppose the shims are the same as on my older carbed rotax BMW F650 Strada - which is likely, then they are 29mm in diameter
I thought I read somewhere that the twin spark rotax changed shim size to 10mm? This would more likely be similar to the husky. So far with mine, comparing to the twin spark rotax wins over older models.

But, the top end of the husky is all redone, so I certainly wouldn't say it's a sure thing. I haven't seen anyone that has actually tried to reshim the husky yet.

This post seems potentially helpful:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=2369

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Old 08-28-2013, 09:34 AM   #1438
mbravo
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F650 Strada is a carbed twin spark, at least the 96-97 model which I have
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:39 AM   #1439
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Originally Posted by mbravo View Post
Actually, this idea has been bugging me for a while. I have access to a more or less consumer-level 3d printer, and it does pretty nice job fabricating stuff out of ABS plastic. And that plastic is quite sturdy. Is there any reason why some of the simpler, non-load-bearing, not exposed to intense heat stuff like, I don't know offroad headlight protecting grill, or even protective covers for brake cylinders and the like, couldn't be fabbed on such a 3d-printer? And other parts originally in plastic.
I had a 3D Systems SLA7000 (SLA machine) and now have a Objet Eden260V 3D printer using Polyjet (UV cured resins) technology. I have made many parts that have been/are used in outdoor automotive type (vibration, temperature, UV, etc.) environments and they have held up for a few years now. The biggest thing for Polyjet parts is to protect the parts from direct UV by painting them. There are a ton of different Polyjet resins available now including a high temperature resin used for making injection molding molds.

It sounds like your machine uses FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) technology and the typical failure with FDM parts are the layers seperating due to improper fusing of each layer. Like anything else in the world....you get what you pay for when it comes to tools. If you have a Stratasys machine ($100K and up), then the layer seperation is not an issue. If you have something like a Maker Bot machine (a little over $1K) then your part probably wont last very long. Since FDM uses real plastic materials like ABS, PLA, polycarbonate, polyamides, polystyrene, lignin, among many others, with different trade-offs between strength and temperature properties...you do not have the UV problem like Polyjet parts.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:49 AM   #1440
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Originally Posted by RidingDonkeys View Post
And when you put it all together, it looks like this.


That phone will stay in there? Vibrations, jumps and brush don't knock it out?
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