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Old 12-30-2012, 05:43 AM   #31
Jim Moore
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Cut that zip tie. it's holding the bleeder hose on.

My friend, I don't want to jinx you, but IMO you're wasting your time. Bleeding the clutch is just prolonging the inevitable. You may get a little better clutch feel for a few miles, but you'll quickly be back in the same boat. Worse, the whole time you ride there is fluid migrating up the push rod to your clutch disk. You're about to turn a two-hour, hundred dollar project into a long-weekend, multi-hundred dollar project.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:26 AM   #32
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ok so, im at the point where i have the bolts off now but for the life of me i cant figure out how i am supposed to get the slave out!! there is no way there is enough room to go over the bar and unless i get the hoses off first, i cant imagine it coming out under the bar. i swear i am not stupid guys. i just have never done this particular wrenching before and i dont want to remove anything i am not supposed to!

suggestions?


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Old 02-11-2013, 09:41 AM   #33
Jim Moore
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I took the hoses off the the slave cylinder while it was still mounted to the bike.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:33 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Moore View Post
I took the hoses off the the slave cylinder while it was still mounted to the bike.
how did you do that? there is no way i can see to even reach them.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinaustin View Post
! there is no way there is enough room to go over the bar and unless i get the hoses off first, i cant imagine it coming out under the bar.

It is possible - i've done it on average twice a month over the last few years

It comes out under the bar and inbetween the swingarm. The secret is getting yourself some slack in the clutch fluid cable.

To give yourself some slack in the clutch hose cut the cable ties holding it at the front of the bike and on the main frame, you can also undo the single nut on top of the L/H fork leg, push the fork tube down and pull the clutch hose "this" side of the fork leg to give you plenty of slack.
Then pull the slave cylinder away from the back of the gearbox and twist it and angle it down and turn it through the gap between the swingarm and bar - Don't forget to cut the cable tie holding the clutch bleed unit to the rear subframe -
The slave cylinder will come right out allowing you to undo the banjo bolts.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:57 PM   #36
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will try this tonight! thanks!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
It is possible - i've done it on average twice a month over the last few years

It comes out under the bar and inbetween the swingarm. The secret is getting yourself some slack in the clutch fluid cable.

To give yourself some slack in the clutch hose cut the cable ties holding it at the front of the bike and on the main frame, you can also undo the single nut on top of the L/H fork leg, push the fork tube down and pull the clutch hose "this" side of the fork leg to give you plenty of slack.
Then pull the slave cylinder away from the back of the gearbox and twist it and angle it down and turn it through the gap between the swingarm and bar - Don't forget to cut the cable tie holding the clutch bleed unit to the rear subframe -
The slave cylinder will come right out allowing you to undo the banjo bolts.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:01 PM   #37
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steptoe has ya in line.


No one said there was a ton of work room under there.

You will get it done
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:38 PM   #38
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Ok so... It's off. I made a mess but its off. I have a plan for putting the new one on but I am confused by the paper gasket. I have no idea what it should look like in good nick or fouled...

Here's what I pulled off:
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:43 PM   #39
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A long time ago in a land far away, I read that the new green gasket should have a channel cut at the bottom to provide a path for errant DOT4 to drip to the pavement thereby preventing your clutch from straying to the dark side.


Obi Wan and others may have more details.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:08 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
A long time ago in a land far away, I read that the new green gasket should have a channel cut at the bottom to provide a path for errant DOT4 to drip to the pavement thereby preventing your clutch from straying to the dark side.


Obi Wan and others may have more details.
Or leave it out completely and file a little wee channel right on the bottom of the casting so if there is a leak fluid can escape
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:22 PM   #41
def
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Or leave it out completely and file a little wee channel right on the bottom of the casting so if there is a leak fluid can escape
That'll void the warranty........
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:14 PM   #42
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That'll void the warranty........

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Old 02-12-2013, 08:29 AM   #43
Mike Ryder
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That slave cylinder is certainly pooched. Did it stink like gear oil?
The gasket should look like Micky mouse.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:25 AM   #44
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinaustin View Post
I am confused by the paper gasket. I have no idea what it should look like in good nick or fouled...

Here's what I pulled off:
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...9&rnd=08102012

See #14. That's what the new gasket looks like....about $6.00. New felt while you're at it.

See Lonestar BMW...the service fella there is very helpful.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:34 AM   #45
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oh i got a new "gasket" already. i will try to start putting the new one on tonight. i can already tell the process will be just as painful. i wish there was more slack on the line coming from the master cylinder. i guess i will do the bleed after its on, before i starting putting the bike back together. i am so done with this repair. ugh. its taking me so long but at least im learning along the way!
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