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Old 02-24-2013, 01:20 PM   #61
bobinaustin OP
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Austin Texas
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Well I guess i will put everything back together as I have no leaks. I didnt get any responses to this last post or two so I guess I will put it all back togeher and take it for a test ride?? whats the worst that could happen?
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Old 02-24-2013, 01:47 PM   #62
Mr Head
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The clutch only bleeds from that single point. I replaced the OEM part with a BMW bleed screw, see the sticky at the top of the oilhead section for information on parts.
That makes the bleed simple. ONce you get it right, no leaks and all the clutch should feel very nice when pulled.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by bobinaustin View Post
Ok so I guess I got it done. The reason why I don't sound convinced is it took several attempts of putting the slave on and finding loose banjo bolts etc. after several starts and stops I got the slave on and bled the clutch but in not sure I bled it properly. I guess my question is how do I know it's been bled properly??
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:38 PM   #63
def
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Bob, you'll know if the bleed was good by the way the clutch feels and if the friction zone is the same as when new.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:46 PM   #64
bobinaustin OP
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Bob, you'll know if the bleed was good by the way the clutch feels and if the friction zone is the same as when new.
Well... I put everything back together tonight and took her for a spin. The clutch lever seems to be pulling back further than normal and engaging too soon. I will adjust the lever with the knob tomorrow morning but I am wondering if another bleed is in order?
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:14 PM   #65
rhafe123
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Smae thing happened to mine...

'07 R1200GS. I replaced the slave and bled, bled, bled till I was blue in the face. Turns out it was the master cylinder (on the lever).
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:17 AM   #66
def
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Bob,

Any further progress? Is your clutch now working correctly?
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:22 PM   #67
DRONE
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Now that you know how to do it, the 2nd bleed will go a lot faster.

I've been following your thread for a while now. Did my first clutch bleed last week (1150GSA) and had a break in the rain yesterday so I took it out to see how it felt.

Felt perfect. Yay!
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:05 AM   #68
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same thing - kinda

2002 R1150R with 64k. New clutch, slave, trans input shaft and seals at 38k. Clutch fluid changed every year. Over the winter I lubed the splines along with all other maintenance. When I was done the trans engages about one half inch off the bottom(from the grip). This level stays constant over time in the garage. I have re-bled a couple of times, tapping things along the way. I used a mightvac and manual methods. If I pump it up I get normal engagement for 3-4 pulls. I get a nice 2-3 foot squirt from the master with the cover off. I have never repacked the bearing in the slave. Felt is dry and no obvious leaks around slave, which is clean. I did my homework and found this. If I should start a new thread let me know

Are the conditions different enough to point to something other than the slave?
thanks
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:35 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PF Flyer View Post
2002 R1150R with 64k. New clutch, slave, trans input shaft and seals at 38k. Clutch fluid changed every year. Over the winter I lubed the splines along with all other maintenance. When I was done the trans engages about one half inch off the bottom(from the grip). This level stays constant over time in the garage. I have re-bled a couple of times, tapping things along the way. I used a mightvac and manual methods. If I pump it up I get normal engagement for 3-4 pulls. I get a nice 2-3 foot squirt from the master with the cover off. I have never repacked the bearing in the slave. Felt is dry and no obvious leaks around slave, which is clean. I did my homework and found this. If I should start a new thread let me know

Are the conditions different enough to point to something other than the slave?
thanks
When I do them I PUSH the fluid UP from the bleed hose holding the bleed hose as low as possible.
Ever since I started doing them that way, it's taken less than 5 minutes to effectively bleed the system
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:20 AM   #70
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When I do them I PUSH the fluid UP from the bleed hose holding the bleed hose as low as possible.
Ever since I started doing them that way, it's taken less than 5 minutes to effectively bleed the system
I thought about pushing from the bleed hose since that is how they fill it. What adapter are you using or did you put something together? I figure Home Depot or Lowes should have a gas or water fitting that will fit the thread of the fill adapter and I can rig something from there to a pump.
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