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Old 01-27-2013, 08:15 PM   #31
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 580
Oh, yeah!

Almost forgot. I got in the little spacer I needed for the rear wheel, and I have to say, it was a piece of cake fitting it in the bevel drive without having to remove anything! It was actually a tight fit, and required the disc brake carrier to rotate upside down until I got the bevel drive gear to seat, then there was all kindsa room. The larger dia end of the axle works as a perfect spacer, makes you respect the italian engineers who made it this easy to work on. I'm so happy about that, I didn't even mind it when I realized I only balanced the front wheel, so the rear will get to come off again. No big deal, and besides, I'm used to doing things two or three times before I get mad at myself.



Kinda reminds me of a guy I used to work with, had an old corvette. Told me he decided to get rid of it when he crawled out from under it all pissed off at something he couldn't get to fit, and started kicking the rear fender til he managed to break the fiberglass. Lesson I learned from him is that you should expect to do things up to three times before you get it right...without getting mad.

later, roy
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:41 AM   #32
BubbaJim
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[



See the little tabs on the side of the three pin connector? That's what I need on the males of the larger ones in order to actually latch the females from the wiring harness together with the male connections from inside the bucket. Without those, I'm gonna have to resort to the RTV again....I think I'll spend a little time looking harder before I decide which way to go. As added incentive, I bought an ebay metal Aprilla headlamp bucket that looks a lot nicer than the plastic one that came with my bike. So I don't really mind redoing those connectors, if I can find the proper males with the latching tabs. Anyone knows a source, I'm appreciative in advance.

Greg, Thanks for the solid brake line suggestion. Unfortunately, I already have the originals on order, and unless I manage to mess them up, I think they'll probably look and work better than anything I could bend myself.[/QUOTE]

Hi, Try http://www.stein-dinse.biz/ for the block connectors that you require. They have a great range of Guzzi items and a particularly user friendly website. I know they are on the other side of the pond from you but they may be the answer to this particular spare parts issue and others that may arise.

Great work you are doing on your goose and a great thread. Well done!
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:16 AM   #33
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post

So now, the next thing I need to ponder is how to deal with the headlight connectors. Kinda long story, but the short version is that the molex connectors were pretty buggered up when I started working on the wiring last summer, so I bought all new connectors online, and the little tool that lets me extract the pins and I set to work replacing them. It turns out that the connector pairs I bought don't actually latch together, it's almost like they both are expecting to go thru bulkhead fittings or some such hunk of metal with the proper hole l x w.....
By the time I figured out what was wrong, I already had it ready to ride, so I gave it a little try-out, and one of the connector pairs just came apart, I guess I was hoping the pin forces would hold them together. So I ended up using RTV to anchor them together...solved that problem, but it looks like crap, and now that I have it apart again, I should really try to find the proper connectors and fix it so I'm not ashamed of the way it looks.



See the little tabs on the side of the three pin connector? That's what I need on the males of the larger ones in order to actually latch the females from the wiring harness together with the male connections from inside the bucket. Without those, I'm gonna have to resort to the RTV again....I think I'll spend a little time looking harder before I decide which way to go. As added incentive, I bought an ebay metal Aprilla headlamp bucket that looks a lot nicer than the plastic one that came with my bike. So I don't really mind redoing those connectors, if I can find the proper males with the latching tabs. Anyone knows a source, I'm appreciative in advance.
Stein Dinse is great, no doubt about it. I think I have you covered on these, though, right here in Arizona. Give me a call and we'll chat about what I have and the various ones you need.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:24 PM   #34
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Not a lot of progress...

But I'm planning to use the Bunn breather system rather than the MG breather box, so I thought I could show a pix or two of the connections before I get it too cluttered up with all that wiring stuff. For anyone not familiar with it, just google, and you'll find Rex Bunn in Australia has a pretty simple valving and breather arrangement that has all kindsa technical write-ups about its advantages for a four stroke small engine, and I'm kinda a sucker for trying things that are supposed to be better than factory, (especially if they originated from an individual rather than some big corporation). We'll see when I actually start the break-in process. So here's the basic arrangment, a single tube thru a filter arrangement that acts as the guzzinta to the big breather connection on the top of the crankcase. It actually has two litlle plastic filter/valving components, the second one is hidden inside the large hose, just because that was the way I did the connections. (I'll probably put a little K&N style filter on the open end once I see how much room is left under the gas tank from all the wiring.) Can't see it too clearly here, but there's also a smaller breather fitting on top of the crankcase, and it's just plugged with a closed hose.


And then each valve cover is vented, with the tube running upwards to the frame, then terminating in a little one-way valve down behind the tranny, you can see one of them in the next picture.



This pix probably redundant, but it does show the crancase breather connection from the other side view.


As with everything I show on this thread, if anyone has already done this and sees me doing something wrong, don't be shy about calling me on it. Otherwise, I'm still waiting on the solid brake lines, and hopefully the proper molex connectors that will let me rewire the headlamp connections so they don't look quite so amateurish. later, roy
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:45 AM   #35
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
Hi Roy,

Looking good! :>

Do those larger diameter coils still permit you to mount the side cover?

I'm really interested to learn how the Bunn breather works out for you. Was it plug-n-play, or did you need to supply your own hoses and clamps and pretty much "adapt" his unit to the Guzzi?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:23 AM   #36
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 580
Yes, side covers still fit...

Greg,

I had them mounted like that before I tore it apart, and the side cover fit perfectly over. They're mounted to a little plate that's recessed about a half inch back into the battery space.

The Bunn components came with two hose sizes, roughly 5/16 and 1/4". I ordered some 3/4" ID from McMaster-Carr and some reducers, I also ordered a bit more tubing length, just cause I wanted to run the valve cover vents back out of the way behind the tranny. I think that's all I needed so far. Always a good chance I'll need to relocate something when I get the brake, clutch and shift linkage all connected.

I've been looking at the main harness, and someone has run the wire to the starter relay external to the 15 pin plug. Are you aware of any reason that should be necessary as long as I'm replacing that plug anyhow?

thanks,

roy
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:10 PM   #37
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
I've been looking at the main harness, and someone has run the wire to the starter relay external to the 15 pin plug. Are you aware of any reason that should be necessary as long as I'm replacing that plug anyhow?
Hi Roy,

There shouldn't be any reason for that. It should be a white/black wire that provides the ground (through the handlebar) to terminal 85 of the starter relay. This wire should be position number 3 of the Molex 15 terminal connector. There is very little load on this wire...not sure why anyone would want to run it external? Perhaps the starter failed to actuate at some point and this was part of their diagnostics???

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:07 PM   #38
dancerdave
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: kentucky
Oddometer: 168
Guzzi

Last fall I found a 1979 v1000g5 police model In a barn in very rural Kentucky .. Almost rusted down but it is now living but needs lots of attention and I hope that this old hard head can learn something from you.. Keep up the good work. I love the look of your new old bike.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:55 PM   #39
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 580
delay, delay, more delay....

I thought if I waited to start this little log til after I had the engine and the tranny back and ready to build around, mebbe I could keep up wihtout long stretches of nada...so far I'm going slower than even I expected. I've been studying the wiring harness I ended up with, and with some consulting help from my local MG guru, I've decided to order a new main wiring harness.
I could have just used the other one it was working before), but it looked pretty cobbled up, and I want to change the headlamp bucket and associated connectors anyway. I'll need to do a few modifications when it gets here... I have a set of those flashing LED arrays (Hyperlites) with the brake light, and I'm planning to put some 10W LED running lights on the front crash bars, plus I had already added Hi and Low beam relays inside the headlamp bucket, and I was pretty happy with that arrangement. Plus, I didn't like the fusebox that came with the bike, so I changed it to one that I got out of the local japanese bike junkyard, so that needs some splicing into the main cable. (It's pretty clear in the pix that shows the rear master cylinder. So while I wait on the new main harness and the solid brake lines ( they finally shipped and are on the way), I thought I'd see how hard it is to polish the valve covers...well, so far it's not a piece of cake, all those little contours and mini fins..., I need to hunt up some finer sanding drums for my dremel tool. Hopefully in a few days I can take pix of those.

Aside, back to the wiring...I never could stand the use of a black wire to carry the signal from the front and rear brake switches; not to mention power to the horn...to me, black is gnd and only gnd. So I'm thinking of a better color to use for those wires. It's kinda back to wanting to make a change that I consider a little improvement. Hopefully I can find a striped color that has some black in it. It'll be non-standard guzzi-wise, but that's life. I usually end up drawing a wiring diagram anyway, I've never been that great at reading the ones that come in the book without redrawing it so I can understand all the details. later, roy

flemsmith screwed with this post 02-04-2013 at 08:01 PM
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:57 PM   #40
waylongway
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Location: NorCal
Oddometer: 487
Don't beat your self up..You are doing a fine job!!..Thease things take time, A LONG TIME ! And a LOT of money

Been working on my custom 78 Le mans for 2 1/2 years on and off ..Just now thinking of running wires ,as soon as I get the battery Box done..Then maybe I can think about tearing it all down to powder coat Maybe
Keep up the good work!!
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:57 PM   #41
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 580
Metal polishing....

....are not my forte. But those valve covers were just begging for me to try again. I'd asked the chrome plater who did the fenders how much he'd charge to chrome plate them, and he said $120 for both. Not too bad, but then he kept talking about the chrome just being a flash, and I was not happy the last time I had some rocker covers chrome plated (73 Ironhead Sporty), so I decided to try polishing them. Went thru quite a few sanding drums for my dremel tool, started at 60grit, went to 120, then it was hand work at 220. Along the way I went to Harbor Freight and bought some more of the dremel sanding tubes, some SS brushes and brass ones too, all for the dremel. Turns out the damn sanding tubes are just a tad too large, and spun off my dremel right away. (Wasn't there a thread somewhere about what to buy and not buy at HF? So I finished the first one (at least for now), and it looks pretty good at 5-10 ft, not so great at 3 ft.



But it definitely looks better that the coarse casting. So on the next one, I was a bit more careful, making sure I got rid of the sanding marks as I went to finer sandpaper, ended up at 320, but still had a lot of trouble around all the small curvy parts.



Not good enough that I'd be happy if I paid someone to do it, but much better than stock. So am I gonna redo the first one so it's at least this good? Not likely, and certainly not any time soon. I'm not crazy about this kinda work.
On the other hand,...



I kinda do like wiring. And Greg Bender was able to hlep me with the mating Molex connectors I need to redo the headlamp wiring, so now I'm just waiting on the new wiring harness and I'll have something to keep me entertained for at least a week or so at my rate of working. later, roy
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:16 AM   #42
RedRaptor22
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Lol I was'nt trying to call anyone out but after doing tires for the past few years you would be amazed at how many people insist you mount their fronts backwards because of the tread direction even after you show them the rotation arrows lol.

Best trick I've found for not pinching tubes especially while hand mounting is to stuff them into the tire and put just enough air in them to make them round out, usually they push themselves deep down into the tire out of the way of your spoons and should still be soft enough to not give you problems getting the tire on, plus it makes getting the valve stem through the rim a bit easier since it pushes itself through, at least enough to get the stem nut on.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:43 AM   #43
kellymac530
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You need to go much farther into sanding grits.
Lots of wet and dry minimum of of 600g but when I polish I usually got to 1200g and I use water and a drop of dish soap in it but rinse off the soap regularly.

Lots of sanding.

If you get full sheets of SP, cut the accross the center so that you have two 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 pieces and the fold those in 3rds. You end up with a 3 layer thick 5-1/2" x roughly 3" piece of SP.

Let it soak for a few seconds in the tub of water with a couple drops of soap in it to slick it up. try to use as even of pressure as you can for flat sanding. Do not use your fingers, it will make it bumpy and show in the polied finish.

You can use a piece of plastic or hard rubber with a slight rounded edge to sand in between the fins or ridges. Patience is a virtue on polish prep. Better prep better finish, like paint work. Prep, prep, prep then when you are done prep a bit more.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:36 PM   #44
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 580
Got my brake lines in....

So I've installed them, just finger tight while I make sure I've got everything in the right place. So fer instance:



I had two of these support wire/grommet thingies; here's where I ended up thinking they should go. First one holding the rear caliper solid line steady as the swingarm goes up/down.....



Second one holding the end of the long solid line steady as it connects to the flex line feeding the left front caliper. I'm attaching it to one of two frame tabs just above the regulator. Can't remember what else goes to those tabs... The front caliper lines seem pretty idiot-proof, with two fender holes for clamping the connection between the solid and flex lines. But I'm not so sure about the left front caliper flex line routing to tie into the long solid line....



Does this look right, just running outside the frame? I also got the wiring harness, but I want to get this right first.

Polishing...yeah, I figured I stopped too quick. Mebbe in the future. For now I've got other more fun things to do.

later,

roy
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:21 PM   #45
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 580
Correction....

I think I found a pix that shows me the proper way to run that left front caliper flex line. In case I (or anyone else) ever does this again and wonders, I'll put up a revised shot...



Now off to think about wiring for a while. roy
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