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Old 05-14-2013, 04:54 AM   #91
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,025
I think I like the paint, Roy. Different, to be sure. But not in a bad way. I'm anxious to see it mounted up with all of the black, aluminum, and chrome colors to set it off. :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:08 PM   #92
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 483
Test fit...

I like to use cable ties to support my OCD impulses, usually overdo it...



So when I start trying to fit the tank there are a coupla problems...First, this little clamp places the brake line too low and it wedges between the side of the gas tank and the frame.



So I ended up running the brake line above the crash bar and tossing the clamp. Not sure yet if this little cable tie will stay.



The other side had a similar problem with the wiring harness and a bigger clamp of the same variety. I tossed it as well and replaced it with a cable tie that I think should stay. Cable tie helps flatten the wire bundle against the frame so it shouldn't chafe against the inside of the tank.



So far so good, now here's a question I may need advice with....One of my mufflers had some obvious welding on the end. Not terrible, but I thought I'd try buying just one replica OEM type muffler for looks. Turns out the one I bought has the same exact numbers as the originals, but look at the difference.



Oops! sorry for the sideways pix, but not only are there a lot more holes for better flow(?) in the originals, but they are stainless, and the replica is chrome. I may just get it going with the originals, as I remember they sounded pretty good. Being stainless, they cleaned up pretty well with diminishing grades of sandpaper, although I didn't knock myself out.

Funny how many little things in the hose/wire routing that I want to change before I get close to starting it up. Good news is big brown came to visit today, so I have the new throttle cables and the petcock gaskets. One of my petcocks feels like it needs rebuilding. And I'm not at all happy with my foot brake adjustment, it was hitting the footpeg bracket. I managed to adjust it out with spacers, but I still don't think it's right. later, roy
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:32 AM   #93
JonnyCash
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Midcoast, Maine
Oddometer: 1,350
I think I have some of the little metal clips that hold the front brake line against the frame, where you're having trouble with tank clearance. I'll take a look. I'll give them to you if you want them. They are a lower profile than what you have.
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:44 AM   #94
JonnyCash
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Did you sort out your carb/ filter clearance issue? I had a really hard time (I have the same filters), and in the end, I ended up using a right side intake manifold on both sides, thankfully I had another set of manifolds so to swap around. It worked out great. Your bike is so much prettier than mine that it's not funny. When I rebuilt my RD350, I made everything all polished and new, thinking that i would then be good about keeping it clean. I was wrong. Therefore, when doing this T3 of mine, I went all out on the mechanicals, but was a bit more cavalier about the aesthetics.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:13 AM   #95
flemsmith OP
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Carb filter clearance....

I won't really know for sure until I get it running and see what the vibration does to the spacings I have now. It looks like I have clearance, but that could easily go away when it's running. At least now that I know what I'm looking for, there are some options I can use to fix it. I'm not above cutting away part of the rubber battery tray lip if that's all it takes. Thanks for the offer of the frame clip(s), I dunno exactly what they are, but I'm interested.

As far as looks, I didn't start out thinking I'd be doing this, but once I got it all apart, I thought it would be fun, and it has been. I generally keep bikes a long time, and that's what I have in mind with this one.

Do you have any pix of your foot brake linkage? ie, when depressed, is the brake lever still above the foot peg bracket, or does it clear it to the inside? Something is not right with mine.

roy
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:10 PM   #96
JonnyCash
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Dang, I forgot to look for the clips...tomorrow I'll find them. I can't help you with the brake linkage. Though mine started life as a T3, it now has the rear end from a T, and therefore is totally different.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:30 AM   #97
flemsmith OP
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 483
Throttle cables came in...

...and after messing around with routing, here's the way I'm thinking I'll route them for gas tank mounting/clearance. Originally they were going thru the big frame grommet, but one of them had a pretty good bend in it. I tried not to use cable ties too tightly, but I did use some to make sure I knew they would stay out of the way as I put the tank on and off.





Here's a one-sided view of the baby buggy rubber bumper and the throttle cable clearance in front of it. Obviously I need to replace that Bunn breather neoprene hose with something a bit more substantial. It's way too flimsy for the way I'm routing it.



I think this will work ok. Anyone knows better based on experience, I'm all ears. later, roy
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:10 PM   #98
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post



I think this will work ok. Anyone knows better based on experience, I'm all ears. later, roy
Hi Roy,

I think your throttle cable routing is good where it exits the front of the tank. On the sides, however, I would not route the cables between the tank and the rubber tank mounts. Instead, I would route them pretty much straight up and inward, well back of the rubber tank mounts - then route them forward.

I suspect you might need to move the side tank mounting rubbers further forward. I don't know for sure, but I certainly needed to move them forward on my I-Convert. Further forward kept the tank from being pulled too far downward into the cylinders, IIRC. I recommend that you play around with the various positions. I'm still not sure if my center tank rubber mount is doing anything worthwhile, but the two side ones are definitely where I need them to be. A good flashlight is very helpful when trying to make sure everything is where it should be.

Also keep in mind that the front of your seat will contact the front of the tank. Yes, it will rub on it. I've seen guys put a towel in there to prevent it rubbing off the paint. But, I don't worry about it (and I think the towel looks a bit silly). I mention this because the final position of the tank is related to the position of the seat.

Honestly, the tank and seat mounts are one of the things that frustrate me about the early Tonti framed machines. The Loop framed machines were much easier: the tank was bolted in one location with rubber bushings, and the seat also bolted in place without any need of bottom rubber bushings. Done and done with no muss or fuss. All the same, get the Tonti correct and you won't have to mess with it again (or at least not much).

I hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

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Old 05-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #99
waylongway
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Greg Bender;. I'm still not sure if my center tank rubber mount is doing anything worthwhile, but the two side ones are definitely where I need them to be.

I ended up putting a rubber stopper on the top frame rail toward the back of the tank ,with out all the tank weight sitting on just the bottom ones ,Now its solid when I strap it down ...
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:43 AM   #100
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waylongway View Post
I ended up putting a rubber stopper on the top frame rail toward the back of the tank ,with out all the tank weight sitting on just the bottom ones ,Now its solid when I strap it down ...
I'll take a look at that, thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:45 AM   #101
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Good input, Greg.

Thanks, I know that the rubber mount locations vs the throttle routing is harder to get exactly right than I expected when I took it apart. I'll mess with it some more. Seems like a pretty trivial thing, but I do want to get it right, and not just force it together.

Roy
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:04 PM   #102
JonnyCash
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I have my throttle cables routed through the groove in the rear rubber tank bumpers. It works great. The cable to the right carb goes down the left frame tube and vice versa, they cross over and then go through the groove in the tank rubber then to the carbs.
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:05 PM   #103
flemsmith OP
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That cable routing sounds interesting...

Johnny, I'll take a look at it before I decide finally. Thanks for the input.

roy
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:13 PM   #104
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Stupid front tire tricks....

About four inner tubes ago, I had the front tire mounted, but someone noticed it was reversed. Today I finally got a good tube mount that's holding air, and although I was very careful to make sure the tire was on the wheel the same way so it would rotate properly, it's backward again....turns out I never had to take the tire off, just swap the disks and their bearing retainers. The tire/wheel are symmetrical, but one of the bearings is located by a big circlip, the other is held flush to the surface of the wheel bearing hub by the internal spacer. The circlip needs to be on the left side. If the tire is reversed, just swap the disks with their bearing hubs and everything will be fine. Wish I'd figured that out a few months ago. Simple stuff like that is what I always look to this site for input on. Usually someone has already documented it. In this case I haven't seen it before, so I'm putting it here for when I forget the next time.

roy
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:42 PM   #105
flemsmith OP
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Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Wrong!!!

Sorry, but I was definitely mistaken in that last post. To center the disks, the wheel bearing with the circlip needs to be to the right side, and the flush one to the left. Right now I'm not sure without taking it apart again whether I was right to say you could just swap the disks and take care of the tire rotation issue. Sorry, I should have double checked myself first before I got all excited and posted.

roy
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