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12-30-2012, 10:12 PM
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#91 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Brisvegas, Australia
Oddometer: 1,133
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I've looked at ways around the pushrod issue and haven't yet found a good solution. The chrome moly steel ones are stiff, but much heavier and with a foot long pushrod, there's significantly less thermal expansion in the rod so valve clearances vary as the engine heats up. A friend of mine tried composite carbon pushrods. Very light and very stiff , but they don't expand at all with heat. It was so bad that if he set valve clearances hot, when the engine cooled down there was no compression when the engine was cold because the pushrods held the valves open! The only way he could make it work was either to set the valve clearances every time the engine was cold, and then reset them as it got hot, or never let the engine cool down!
__________________
The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt. Bertrand Russell |
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12-30-2012, 10:17 PM
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#92 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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12-30-2012, 10:25 PM
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#93 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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Quote:
I forgot to add that I am running into the same issue as pj's friend with the carbon fiber rods with my 4130 pushrods. I am setting my exhaust at zero play and my intakes just slightly preloaded in order to get .004 and .008" when it is hot but it apparently isn't enough to effect starting at all so far. supershaft screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 10:57 PM |
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12-30-2012, 10:31 PM
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#94 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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12-30-2012, 11:57 PM
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#95 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Oddometer: 736
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The R65 has the larger oil pick up.
SS, I no longer beleive what the BMW rev counter says after seeing the ignition program on the lappy....its spot on...as it has to be...the rev counter less so....I gave up on the electronic one as it wet heywire over 7500.....the mechanical on is better but reads high. No longer run one, just change up when the limiter hits |
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12-31-2012, 01:22 AM
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 334
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And everything stock except your Ti-retainers? What are they? Probably around ~12 grams. I believe your observations but I also believe in physics and mathematics. Pure mathematics say that you'll need 26% more spring force than stock for the same rpm. For 8500 rpm you'd need more than 1000N spring force. The stock spring has around 800N max force. Preloading 1mm brings an additional 45N only. Somethings wrong in that calc. Edit: these are the according data
RGregor screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 02:00 AM |
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12-31-2012, 11:31 AM
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#97 |
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Along for the ride
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Vancouver Island
Oddometer: 914
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Spring
RGreger what type of spring material are you using to get 18 grams?
__________________
__________________________________________ "There's a fine line between a skinning and a shearing" |
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12-31-2012, 02:32 PM
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#98 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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Quote:
I don't remember the exact weights. They are real close to three times the weight of the aluminum rods and twice as heavy as the steel ones. The retainers are only grams lighter but they really do increase any setup's float rpm by around 500rpm just as some experts predict. Predictions that can be duplicated. Now THAT'S good science! |
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01-01-2013, 12:01 AM
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#99 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 334
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01-01-2013, 01:21 AM
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#100 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 334
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I did some reading on the subject and the way to calculate masses is the result of it.
Still it's a very primitive model as it does not take into account any flexibility. Now, obviously your practical results and my theory differ. At this point asking questions way reveal some information not mentioned yet. Not the case here. Good practical results beat bad theory. Any hints where to find the information you refer to in literature? Happy New Year to all Adventurers here! |
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01-01-2013, 12:32 PM
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#101 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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01-02-2013, 12:14 AM
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#102 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 334
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01-02-2013, 07:34 AM
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#103 |
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Beastly Gnarly
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 376
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Something worth considering about pushrod rigidity is the diameter and material modulus of elasticity. In the sport of archery (which is completely unrelated) aluminum arrows have been merged with carbon fiber to form a composite shaft. This allows smaller diameter, lighter arrows, that have the same stiffness as arrows made from aluminum of larger diameters due to the increase in material modulus.
As such, a (slightly) larger diameter pushrod made from aluminum-carbon composite will be stiffer than a standard aluminum tube without much of a weight penalty. I am not sure about the thermal expansion because of the carbon layer, but the length change will be closer to aluminum than pure carbon. I have to expect the 'state of the art' pushrod engine racers have looked into this material and it's just a matter of searching for the right keywords. |
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01-02-2013, 11:16 AM
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#104 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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01-03-2013, 10:00 PM
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#105 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,213
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I was just thinking about one of my aviation bosses. He liked 1025 a lot for maybe something like this but I don't know if its available right now. There is a California pushrod maker (can't remember the brand name right now) that use to make them for the guys at B+S and whatnot with 1018. They make a lot of them out of 1018. I would prefer 1020. Personally, I like the way it machines much better than 1018! I had mine made out of 4130. It takes compression quite a bit better than 1018.
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