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Old 11-24-2008, 04:31 PM   #1
ride-n-the world OP
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Road salt neutralizing products...

Anyone ever try either of these two products or have suggestions for other ways to neutralize the road salt.

I've always just did a quick hose down of the bike when I get home from a ride and never had too much of a problem, but man, whatever they are using on the roads here in ohio is really nasty this year. I thought I'd get a gallon concentrate of one of these products and spray the bike both before I leave and when I get home. Anyone use them or have any reasons I shouldnt use them?


http://www.saltawayproducts.com/


http://www.salt-x.com/salt-x4.htm





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ride-n-the world screwed with this post 11-25-2008 at 12:08 PM
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:32 PM   #2
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Dihydrogen monoxide in liberal quantities.
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
Dihydrogen monoxide in liberal quantities.


I've always rinsed the bikes down and had acceptable results, but this year it isn't as effective....I have no idea why, but a plain old h20 hose down isnt doing the trick.
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Old 11-24-2008, 09:43 PM   #4
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Chlorine is your culprit and it won't wash off. We used a product called Chlor-rid to reduce the chlorides on metal tanks. When the cloride level is high we usually needed two treatments wiht steam cleaning in between.
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Old 11-25-2008, 07:57 AM   #5
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Any pictures of the damage that you can share? I'm really curious how bad it has to be to notice after only a few rides.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donkey Hotey
Any pictures of the damage that you can share? I'm really curious how bad it has to be to notice after only a few rides.

Here ya go.....it actually looks worse in the picts than in person. Any white stuff you see in the picts is white lithium grease I applied after I washed the bike again to try and keep it from progressing. I'm starting to think that I had to have rode through something else on the road....notice how on most of the bolts, its on one side, towards the front/bottom. Its also only on the very lower parts of the bike, rotors, caliper bolts, etc. Funny though, the chain looks spotless. I hope one of the above products will work. 2008 Wee garage kept.















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Old 11-25-2008, 12:54 PM   #7
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We shot off a few questions to the Salt-away people last night, and here is their very fast, detailed response. Just thought I'd share, seems like good customer service with experience in motorcycles.




Salt-Away is a water-based product and is safe to use on any part of your motorcycle. While Salt-Away will not discolor hot surfaces, it is more effective using Salt-Away on warm or cool surfaces due to immediate evaporation of the mixture on a hot surface. Salt-Away needs a chance to dissolve the salt and during the process of the application, it is necessary to have enough pressure to cause the dissolved salt to completely run off the exit areas of the surface. While applying Salt-Away, the ingredient in the product that will not allow salt to remain on the surface causes a "sheeting" effect, and this process is necessary to bring the salt to the ground. A hot surface like the exhaust pipes and motor may immediately evaporate the solution, and runoff would not occur. Of course, continuing to apply the product to these surfaces will naturally cool them down, and then it will be effective.

Salt-Away is also safe for your brake pads and rotors and will not affect braking, as long as it is diluted at the recommended ratios for your application. Salt-Away is very concentrated, and was developed so, only for economical purposes. It was never intended to be used at 100% solution, and if applied at 100%, it may affect the braking. Otherwise any residue left on the pads will not affect the performance at all. The recommended ratio is 512 parts water to 1 part Salt-Away (1 ounce for every 4 gallons of water dispensed). This ratio can be achieved by using the Salt-Away Mixing Unit or a commercial garden hose end sprayer (see par. 5 below). If using a local dispensing method (spray bottle) the solution should be no more than 5% Salt-Away (95% water).

Since you indicated the brake pads are somewhat porous and can become saturated with liquids, I would treat them more than once, at least for the 1st time you use Salt-Away. Anytime a surface is exposed to salt, especially in a dissolved state, and particularly if the surface will allow liquids to soak into it, the salt tends to "build" inside the softness of the material, and is not visible. Also, when braking, the salt may become compressed within the material. When treating your pads with Salt-Away, the product will soak into the material and begin to break down the build-up. Over time, (12-24 hours) some of the salt may appear on the surface, as if "leached" out, which is a good thing. It should be rinsed off with Salt-Away and at the same time more product will be introduced to the pads to continue the cleaning. So you may want to take more time to treat your brake pads the first time using Salt-Away. Depending on the use of your motorcycle during salt exposure on the streets and roads, you may find this is something you want to do at each cleaning session.

There are a lot of people who race motorcycles and other vehicles at Bonneville Salt Flats each year, and almost all of them use Salt-Away. They pre-treat their vehicles with Salt-Away prior to racing with a richer solution. When the solution dries the film prevents the salt from attaching so tightly to the surface. Afterward when they want to remove the salt, it comes off very easily.

The recommended equipment supplies to apply Salt-Away to remove the salt are: Garden Hose and either the Salt-Away Mixing Unit or a commercial garden hose end sprayer (lawn fertilizer dispenser) that has the capability to dial ratios (set dial at 3 teaspoons). The SA Mixing Unit dispenses at the recommended ratio. We do not recommend any other method for removing salt because there needs to be enough water pressure to cause the salt to run off. For pre-treating with SA, use a compression pump sprayer (bug/weed sprayer) or an ordinary trigger spray bottle. The solution should be a 20% Salt-Away and 80% water. It is important to apply with very little pressure. In this case, you want the product to stay on the surface, so a "drizzling" effect is better. If using the compression pump sprayer, maintain compression at a weak psi. During the application as the compression gets weaker, pump it up just a little. Otherwise, higher pressure will cause the solution to splash and run off.

By the way, no apologies necessary for asking your questions. If you didn't, I would be out of work! I hope my comments were helpful.

We are sending the test kits you requested today.

Thank you for your interest in Salt-Away.

Best regards,
Lenora Meister
Salt-Away Products, Inc.
1533 McFadden Avenue
Suite B
Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-550-0987
888-725-8292
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:47 PM   #8
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From my experience, a nice coat of mud, layered over road grime and tar, applied in several coats every summer, helps to prevent corrosion from winter salts .
(Just joshin', rtw ).

I haven't had that much corrosion yet on my MC over the years. Maybe it is something spilled by accident that you road through. The mechanic that works on my wife's van told me that he replaces almost 3 times as many brake lines on cars, because of rust-throughs, per year than he did 10 years ago. He thinks it's the liquid they spray on the road before a snow that does it.
How much does that "Salt-Away" stuff cost?

BEAN
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sangfroid
From my experience, a nice coat of mud, layered over road grime and tar, applied in several coats every summer, helps to prevent corrosion from winter salts .
(Just joshin', rtw ).

I haven't had that much corrosion yet on my MC over the years. Maybe it is something spilled by accident that you road through. The mechanic that works on my wife's van told me that he replaces almost 3 times as many brake lines on cars, because of rust-throughs, per year than he did 10 years ago. He thinks it's the liquid they spray on the road before a snow that does it.
How much does that "Salt-Away" stuff cost?

BEAN

I've never had a problem with it before this either, I mean nothing much to worry about. Very unusual....

Funny you should mention the brake lines on cars! The brake line on our mini van had a pinhole in it a few weeks ago...it was completely corroded through...talk about your pucker factor, nothing like hitting the brakes to realize you have almost nothing and the peddle goes to the floor.

Anyhow, both of the products above cost about the same, and both get diluted down in crazy amounts ( see the email or website i don't recall exactly off hand but something like 1-2 ounces salt-away to a gallon of water) Anyhow, a quart of concentrate is about 13.00 and a gallon of concentrate is about 30.00....I'm going to buy some and put it in one of those pesticide/pump sprayers at and leave it by the bike. Just a quick spray on the bottom before I leave and when I get home, should be enough. I'll post up the results later down the road.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:16 PM   #10
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A friend who charters his boat uses some kind of neutralizer and swears by it....Boaters World carries it I think. The boat does look good after a spray down with no spots. It is safe on all surfaces.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moymurfs
A friend who charters his boat uses some kind of neutralizer and swears by it....Boaters World carries it I think. The boat does look good after a spray down with no spots. It is safe on all surfaces.
Good to know....I had a few concerns with the products, I wondered if they would affect the brake pads, or perhaps even leave a slick film on the rotors/tires etc. And then I would be concerned that it may break down the grease/lubes in various areas on the bike. But apparently, (and I'm taking this with a "grain of salt" ", it wont do either of those things and its completely safe on all metals, rubbers, plastics ,electrics.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BtoV
Chlorine is your culprit and it won't wash off. We used a product called Chlor-rid to reduce the chlorides on metal tanks. When the cloride level is high we usually needed two treatments wiht steam cleaning in between.

Thanks for the additional info...I checked out the website...looks like another product to consider...
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Old 11-26-2008, 05:55 AM   #13
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It seems to me that just two or three days ago I caught a television show where they mentioned that the use of a different road salt (Magnesium Chloride, I think?) had become much more prevalent recently, and that it was causing serious corrosion issues.

I looked at this thread today because they heavily salted parking lot at work last night. It was like riding on corrosive gravel coming in.
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:02 AM   #14
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mag chloride

Mag chloride seems to be the poison of choice of hwy depts now. It is very corrosive as it invades every nook and cranny as it is applied to the streets as a liquid, melts whatever hits it and is then splashed all up in your vehicle. I have seen nearly new cars with frozen brake calipers due to mag chloride corrosion and three and four year old vehicles nearly rusted away underneath. That being said, salt a way is a great product, I have used it a Bonneville and it really does work, makes clean up much easier and if I still lived in a place that used mag chloride I would coat my car to protect it. There is also a product available that works electrically to neutralize the reaction between metal and salt, I have forgotten the name but I am sure you could google it and find it. Good Luck--oh yeah it is 65 in Tucson this am!
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroming it softly
Mag chloride seems to be the poison of choice of hwy depts now. It is very corrosive as it invades every nook and cranny as it is applied to the streets as a liquid, melts whatever hits it and is then splashed all up in your vehicle. I have seen nearly new cars with frozen brake calipers due to mag chloride corrosion and three and four year old vehicles nearly rusted away underneath. That being said, salt a way is a great product, I have used it a Bonneville and it really does work, makes clean up much easier and if I still lived in a place that used mag chloride I would coat my car to protect it. There is also a product available that works electrically to neutralize the reaction between metal and salt, I have forgotten the name but I am sure you could google it and find it. Good Luck--oh yeah it is 65 in Tucson this am!
Does this strike anybody as idiotic and counterproductive? What is the point of getting rid of the ice with an innovative new product if the side effect is to disable all the vehicles whose passage you're trying to ease?
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