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Old 12-29-2012, 09:16 AM   #16
P B G
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If the roof didn't look so nice and brand spanking new I would be thinking about pulling it, insulating outside and reapplying roof!
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
Which one did you use? That link shows about four different types.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LI LT Owner View Post
Forgive my ignorance, do you use this in place of insulation or in conjunction with it?
In the garage, I used the foil/bubble bubble/foil stapled to the studs and bottom of the roof trusses with no other insulation. In the addition, I used the same wrap stapled on the studs and bottom of the roof joists over fiberglass batt insulation that I slashed the kraft paper (so as not to have 2 vapor barriers.

I also used the foil/bubble bubble/white poly under the concrete slab. It seems to work at least as well as the 2" of blue foam under the slab in the rest of the house.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:36 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by HapHazard View Post
In the garage, I used the foil/bubble bubble/foil stapled to the studs and bottom of the roof trusses with no other insulation. In the addition, I used the same wrap stapled on the studs and bottom of the roof joists over fiberglass batt insulation that I slashed the kraft paper (so as not to have 2 vapor barriers.

I also used the foil/bubble bubble/white poly under the concrete slab. It seems to work at least as well as the 2" of blue foam under the slab in the rest of the house.
Thanks for the info. You wouldn't consider posting up a pic of what it looks like on the ceiling would you?
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:42 PM   #19
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I just came from Homedepot and a 4x50ft roll is 130 bucks. They only had 1 kind but different sizes. It could be pretty expensive,. They also had 4x8 sheets of Styrofoam stuff with foil on one side for 12 bucks a sheet. I think I'd rather use the hard sheets vice the roll, or the best option would be spray foam, depending on cost.

Let us know what you decide.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:31 PM   #20
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How is your roof ventilated?
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:52 PM   #21
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How is your roof ventilated?
By the breeze when I open the doors and windows.

But seriously, it's not an enclosed attic like a house, so at this point it's open to the rest of the space so no extra ventilation needed. That's what I am worried about by adding insulation then you seal in the moisture and would need some kind of ventilation.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:45 PM   #22
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my build

I had a choice of spray foam or rolled fiberglass.

I choose fiberglass with paper back .. wired to the ceiling.
The cost is lower with the fiberglass
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:51 PM   #23
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Thanks for the info. You wouldn't consider posting up a pic of what it looks like on the ceiling would you?
I'll try. Here goes...

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Old 01-01-2013, 08:08 PM   #24
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Our roof was higher than yours,
But I put up a dropped ceiling sorta.
Ran 2x4's and laid 3/4" 4x8 foam sheets across it.

Once in a while I have an issue with wind lifting them, but for the most part not.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:18 PM   #25
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I still think spray foam is your best bet. It's self-supporting and rot-proof, as long as you keep UV light away. If you're going to weld in there, you might need a portable barrier around your project.
X2

It also deadens the sound of rain and helps the acoustics in the building.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:33 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
Winter is finally here and I need a project to relieve the boredom. I have a 30 x 40 pole barn with nothing on the ceiling for insulation. I need help on figuring out the proper way to insulate it.
I would vent the heck out of it and put in a drop ceiling.
Dave
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:41 PM   #27
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Having an effective moisture barrier between the roof and interior space is important to the life of your roof. The roof on a building some friends and I bought rotted out along the purlins after about 30 years due to moisture buildup under the roof. The original insulation was vinyl faced fiberglas rolls.

Basically, the seams between the insulation were not sealed and moisture worked its way in and condensed on the underside of the metal roof. Also, birds got into the building and destroyed areas of insulation under the roof when they nested. The moisture attacked imperfections in the metal coating, and around the nail holes. It was amazing how the roof just rusted out in big straight lines under the purlins, while the spaces in between were largely intact.

For the replacement roof, the installer put down accordion panels of thin vinyl faced foam, taped the seams, then installed the new roof. Hopefully this will keep the moisture away from the metal and extend the life of the new material.

Our building is taller than yours, about 14' at the eaves, but I would think the moisture issue would be the same if you don't prevent it from reaching the metal.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:00 PM   #28
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I'll try. Here goes...

Thank you very much! Did you tape the seams? If you did tape, what did you use?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:20 AM   #29
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i did a drop ceiling with foam panels. the tape i used for seams for silver backed foam is henkel ul181b-fx - no sign of movement or loosening up for last 5 years. sticks and installs easier than you would think.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:24 PM   #30
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Thank you very much! Did you tape the seams? If you did tape, what did you use?
You're very welcome - and thank YOU for not commenting on my embarrassing mess.

I taped the corners (wall to wall and wall to ceiling) with TekFoil Joining tape:


http://www.teksupply.com/contractor/...;pgdh8004.html

$12 for 150 feet of 2.5" wide tape. I've seen similar foil tape locally, but the TekFoil stuff is really sticky.
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