625 smc starting gremlins

[4x4runer]

06 625 smc with 7 k, I'm the 3 rd owner. Here is the situation.
When I go to start the bike cold, I pull the choke and hit the estarter. The starter starts to turn but dies real quick like not enough juice from the battery. Then I pull out out the kick starter and give it some assistance. When I get to the bottom of the kick starter motion, the starter dies. It takes 5 or so attempts then starts and runs fine. Starts much easier when warmed up, sometimes doesn't need the kick starter help. Seems random when the kick starter is not needed.
The previous owner replaced the starter not to long ago. I keep a battery tender on it. When I pull the decamp lever, the starter has no problem trying to start the bike. I pulled the battery, had it tested on a load and the shop told me the battery is good, not fully charged but good otherwise. Battery is a yuasa and about 1 year old. The shop said it was the right size. I also took apart estarter switch because it was gummed up. I have a multi meter but not real good with it. So
where do I go from here, simple stuff first. Cheers

[gunnerbuck]

A simple thing to check is the wires that run into the starter relay behind and at the back of the right side panel... Sometimes these wires get worn through from abrasion to the point where only a strand or 2 are left giving erratic juice flow to the starting circuit...

With only 7k on the bike I can't see the decomp cam been worn so the fault may lie inside the starter itself...


I would remove the starter off the bike and disassemble it for a good cleaning, while it is apart you can check the condition of the 2 brushes... A bit of emery paper can be used to clean the armature to make sure it has good conductivity.... This all sounds difficult, but in actual fact the starter is quite easy to remove and service...

You will then have a eliminated the starter as the probably cause and look elsewhere if the problem persists...

[dnrobertson]

Do you hear the auto decomp kick in at low revs when the bike is running?

I am having the same behaviour on my 640 and my cam was replaced only 6000kms ago (as a result of the infamous cam roller bearing failure) and the auto-decomp has stopped working.

So I wouldn't discount the auto comp not working just for low mileage.

But, I would (and will) look at the other things Gunner suggested.

[4x4runer]

Originally Posted by dnrobertson

Do you hear the auto decomp kick in at low revs when the bike is running?

I am having the same behaviour on my 640 and my cam was replaced only 6000kms ago (as a result of the infamous cam roller bearing failure) and the auto-decomp has stopped working.

So I wouldn't discount the auto comp not working just for low mileage.

But, I would (and will) look at the other things Gunner suggested.

What does the auto decamp sound like when it kicks in?

[4x4runer]

Originally Posted by gunnerbuck

A simple thing to check is the wires that run into the starter relay behind and at the back of the right side panel... Sometimes these wires get worn through from abrasion to the point where only a strand or 2 are left giving erratic juice flow to the starting circuit...

With only 7k on the bike I can't see the decomp cam been worn so the fault may lie inside the starter itself...


I would remove the starter off the bike and disassemble it for a good cleaning, while it is apart you can check the condition of the 2 brushes... A bit of emery paper can be used to clean the armature to make sure it has good conductivity.... This all sounds difficult, but in actual fact the starter is quite easy to remove and service...

You will then have a eliminated the starter as the probably cause and look elsewhere if the problem persists...

I think the starter has two bolts holding it on and two bolts to crack it open. Will look into this and the wires to the relay. I thought the relay was under the seat behind the battery. I see a wire off the starter to this thing I thought was the relay. It has two fuses, a black wire that goes to the starter and what looks like a relay.

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by 4x4runer

What does the auto decamp sound like when it kicks in?

If you turn the idle down you should start to hear a klacking sound coming from the valve cover area which tells you the auto decomp cam is tipping the Exhaust valve rocker as it should... The noise usually starts when you turn it down to around 1400 rpm or a little below...

You should also hear this auto decomp give a click when you slowly roll the engine over with the kickstart or with the rear wheel while in gear...

If the auto decomp is not working you can use the manual handlebar lever unit in it's place to help the engine spin up for cold starts... Not having or using some form of compression relief upon startup is hard on the E-start system and prolonged operation this way will usually lead to some sort of mechanical starting circuit failure...

[dnrobertson]

Originally Posted by gunnerbuck

You should also hear this auto decomp give a click when you slowly roll the engine over with the kickstart or with the rear wheel while in gear...

To make either of these easier to achieve, remove the spark plug.

And it's not a subtle click either. If the auto decomp is working, you will hear a LOUD click as the exhaust valves get opened then slam shut.

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by 4x4runer

I think the starter has two bolts holding it on and two bolts to crack it open. Will look into this and the wires to the relay. I thought the relay was under the seat behind the battery. I see a wire off the starter to this thing I thought was the relay. It has two fuses, a black wire that goes to the starter and what looks like a relay.

If the SMC has twin pipes then the relay may be located in a different spot than on my Adventure... On the Adventure it sits under the right side cover just below the top frame rail and beside the back end of the air box... It's a round metal unit with 2 wires to the top and it sits in a rubber mounting sleeve...

[Alik]

Battery good but no fully charged... I would check the strap that connects the battery to the ground. On the left side of the battery, it should be firmly connected to the subframe.
I second Gunner with checking the starter motor itself - it is basically an easy job to do.
Other more complicated things comming to mind but check those first.
You can help the starter with manual decompression lever - i usually do to prolong the life of the starter sprague. It is also accepted practice to kill the engine with it instead of the kill switch or key.

[4x4runer]

Originally Posted by Alik

Battery good but no fully charged... I would check the strap that connects the battery to the ground. On the left side of the battery, it should be firmly connected to the subframe.
I second Gunner with checking the starter motor itself - it is basically an easy job to do.
Other more complicated things comming to mind but check those first.
You can help the starter with manual decompression lever - i usually do to prolong the life of the starter sprague. It is also accepted practice to kill the engine with it instead of the kill switch or key.

How do kill the engine with the decompression lever, just pull it while the engine is on. I usually let the engine idle for half a minute the turn the key off. I had problems with the estart/kill switch until I cleaned the switch really well. Thanks for the tips.
The ground to the battery is firm connected to the subframe. I think the previous owner replaced the strap and possibly the location. The strap is very short and connects the battery to the subframe where the seats grabs tHe subframe. Are there any other grounds to check.

[4x4runer]

Originally Posted by gunnerbuck

If the SMC has twin pipes then the relay may be located in a different spot than on my Adventure... On the Adventure it sits under the right side cover just below the top frame rail and beside the back end of the air box... It's a round metal unit with 2 wires to the top and it sits in a rubber mounting sleeve...

Yes, twins pipes. I just put heated grips on the bike and ran some of the wires under that side panel. There is a box under there with a lot of wires running to it but I don't it's the starter relay.

[4x4runer]

Originally Posted by gunnerbuck

If you turn the idle down you should start to hear a klacking sound coming from the valve cover area which tells you the auto decomp cam is tipping the Exhaust valve rocker as it should... The noise usually starts when you turn it down to around 1400 rpm or a little below...

You should also hear this auto decomp give a click when you slowly roll the engine over with the kickstart or with the rear wheel while in gear...

If the auto decomp is not working you can use the manual handlebar lever unit in it's place to help the engine spin up for cold starts... Not having or using some form of compression relief upon startup is hard on the E-start system and prolonged operation this way will usually lead to some sort of mechanical starting circuit failure...

Yes there is a nice clack when using the kickstarter. It sems to be at the end motion of the kickstart motion. I was hoping that was normal.

[4x4runer]

Battery at 13.4 volts this am after a night on the tender. Off the charger with ignition on, tried to start once and volts dropped to 12.5 . Started the bike as per usual routine and volts at 13 .4 while running. Going to check grounds and wires to relay, then pull starter.

[4x4runer]

Removed the ground, pulled the starter, checked the wires to the relay, all seemed to check out. However I didn't know what to look for with the starter. The drive mech on the starter looked great, the flywheel that the starter turns looks fine meaning no broken teeth or excessive wear. Opened up the starter and all looked good. Tried to bring the starter into the motorcycle shop down the road but he was closing. He was nice enough to talk with me and he seemed to think it was a battery problem.
I hooked everything back up hoping it would magically work, no luck. I tried to start the bike And smoke came from where the ground and subframe connect. I removed all the black paint from the subframe, removed that washer and hooked it back up and .... No luck, however it starts much easier. Instead of making the full motion with the kickstarter, I pulled the decompression lever, moved the kicker an inch or so and starts with ease. So, maybe a battery issue? Any other thoughts.

[Droptarotter]

Have you tried putting a jumper battery onto it?
It is starting to sound more like a bad battery.