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Old 04-10-2014, 06:32 PM   #1
Absolutediver OP
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Ocala, Florida
Oddometer: 11
12,000 mile service closing thoughts

12,000 mile service closing thoughts

Many thanks to Jim at JVB productions! It is a great video with lots of great tips and suggestions. I also invested $30.00 on a Haynes service & repair manual specific to my 2012 R1200GS. Between the two of them, anybody can do this service.

Between two consecutive days it probably took a total of 10 hours. I worked really slowly and stopped to watch each section of the video before doing that task in addition to consulting the book.

I used exactly one full (12 oz) bottle of Prestone DOT 4 brake fluid on both the front & back, while doing the brake fluid flush. You’re going to need a second set of hands to do the front left calipers, my neighbor was enlisted. Jim’s door shims that he used for spreading the pads were plastic, Home Depot only had wood shims which still worked fine. 2’ of clear ¼” tubing into a wine bottle did the trick on the drain side. I live in horse/cattle country, at my local feed store they have large syringes for a $1.00 that are used to feed sick baby foals and calf’s, worked great sucking out the old fluid from the reservoirs.

Changing the air filter was a bit of a pain only because you have to remove some body molding. Now I know why my brother hates working on his Gold Wing. I replaced the factory filter with a lifetime K&N filter that can be cleaned.

I switched over to Mobil 1 15W 50 full synthetic from conventional 20W 50 mineral oil. The filter is a MANN which I got from Beamer Boneyard.

Even though it didn’t call for it, I drained the gear oil and replaced it with Mobil 1 75W 140 full synthetic.

I did not change the final drive fluid only because I just did it at the 10,000 mile mark when I had the rear wheel off for replacement.

My valve shims haven’t worn down one bit, the measurements were spot on to the 6,000 mile service measurements.
The two bottom spark plugs showed slightly more carbon deposit than the top two plugs which almost looked new. I replaced all four with factory NGK MAR8B-JDS plugs.

In BOTH TOP spark plug holes, all the way in, directly next to where the plugs start threading in, there was some very minor debris/sand laying in the bottom of the hole, I used the wife’s vacuum. It sucked all of it out in under one second for each hole.

I have a GS-911 tool. If you’re going to keep your bike for a while, get one, they’re bad to the bone. I ran a full scan and all looked good, no fault codes showed. I reseated the idle actuators and yes, without going to the dealer, I reset the service reminder for another 6,000 miles.

I did a TBS “throttle body synch” using a manometer I built from stuff I bought at HD for $10.00. I used ATF as the fluid. I did not use the GS-911 to do the TBS, I went old school and just used the manometer. I think I got it correct but for laughs I might do it again while using the GS-911. Holy cow are those two TBS nuts (locking nut & adjusting nut) ever sensitive.

Finally, I took the bike out for a 75 mile ride and ran the snot out of it! No leaks and it runs stronger than ever. I think it likes the new full synthetic fluids.

Regards to all,
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Old 04-10-2014, 06:55 PM   #2
JimVonBaden
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Sounds like you not only saved some coin, but learned how to do your own at your own pace!
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:09 PM   #3
ken h
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolutediver View Post
I switched over to Mobil 1 15W 50 full synthetic from conventional 20W 50 mineral oil.
Just curious about your rationale for switching to the synthetic oil at 12K. NOTE: I AM NOT TRYING TO HIJACK THIS INTO AN OIL THREAD! The reason I ask is because I am coming up on 12K on my 2011 GS. So far all it has had in it is 20W-50 conventional oil. I have been told two different trains of thought about when to switch to synthetic.

A. Wait until the motor is broken in which will be evidenced by the lack of oil consumption. (mine currently uses some but not much)
B. go ahead and switch to full synthetic at the next oil change.

I am all for using synthetic but I am trying to get a handle on whether or not it makes any difference to do it at the 12K oil change or wait until it quits using oil.
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Old 04-11-2014, 03:53 AM   #4
billdonna
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Quote: In BOTH TOP spark plug holes, all the way in, directly next to where the plugs start threading in, there was some very minor debris/sand laying in the bottom of the hole, I used the wife’s vacuum. It sucked all of it out in under one second for each hole.

Well done! pretty satisfying to do you own work. A couple of points here tho...

1. Try to blow out with compressed air, the pocket where the plugs are located BEFORE attempting to remove them.

2. Conventional wisdom is to fully seat the rings before the switch to synthetic. Hopefully yours are seated but at 12k, you are pushing it IMHO.
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:38 AM   #5
Absolutediver OP
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Oil question

This bike never uses much oil, ever. Maybe 10 oz. every 6,000 miles. I have tracked it since delivery. Short of pulling the heads, me knowing if the rings are seated will never happen.

From day one, I've always run full synthetic in ALL my other bikes which includes both air and water cooled Harleys, Kawasakis and Suzukis. I thought waiting until 12,000 miles was a little extreme but I did. Why? Because 95% of BMW bike owners say so, so I did.

If any of you out there REALLY want to dig deep into oil questions & conversations, go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ then go to the forums, you can read stuff on oil for days on end.

Regards,
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:42 AM   #6
billdonna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absolutediver View Post
This bike never uses much oil, ever. Maybe 10 oz. every 6,000 miles. I have tracked it since delivery. Short of pulling the heads, me knowing if the rings are seated will never happen.

From day one, I've always run full synthetic in ALL my other bikes which includes both air and water cooled Harleys, Kawasakis and Suzukis. I thought waiting until 12,000 miles was a little extreme but I did. Why? Because 95% of BMW bike owners say so, so I did.

If any of you out there REALLY want to dig deep into oil questions & conversations, go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ then go to the forums, you can read stuff on oil for days on end.

Regards,

Ok, you may not realise this but BMW plates its' cylinder walls with an extremely hard coting called Nikasil. The plating is actually harder than the rings. The rings must wear into the bore, not the other way around. This is why the BMW rings take so long to seat and synthetic oils interrupt this process by reducing the friction.

Quote from another source: The hard ceramic facing inside the liner is a mixture of nickel and silicon carbide that is only about 0.07 mm (.0025" to .003") thick. Small particles of silicon carbide less than 4 microns in size are dispersed throughout the nickel matrix. The result is a very hard and wear resistant surface that reduces friction and allows the engine to develop more horsepower. The surface has a hardness of about 90 HRc.

The liners are also dimensionally stable and experience less bore distortion than ordinary cylinders, which reduces blowby and leak down (some claim less than 1 percent after extended use). But to seal properly, these liners require two things: moly or tungsten carbide faced rings, and a very smooth bore finish.
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:52 AM   #7
Gillus
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Now go get yourself a can of SeaFoam and add 1 oz per gallon of gas to the gas tank and run that tank down to 1/4 or 1/2 in one sitting (ride) or about 150 miles or so.
Then it will run mochmobedda yet.

Great job on the DYI service and a great write up!!

ps, thanks Jim VB for providing the how to videos
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