All things Automobile - THE definitive car thread

[jdiaz]

Didn't Chevy trucks used to have an issue with the turn signal/CC stalk smelling like smoke or burning up?


You probably don't notice since truck owners never use a turn signal.

[Grainbelt]

Originally Posted by jdiaz

Didn't Chevy trucks used to have an issue with the turn signal/CC stalk smelling like smoke or burning up?

My dad's Blazer had the everyfuckingthingintheworldonitstalk die, it was fucking expensive to replace, I still remember him bitching about it.

He bought a Tundra about a month later.

[jdiaz]

Originally Posted by Grainbelt

My dad's Blazer had the everyfuckingthingintheworldonitstalk die, it was fucking expensive to replace, I still remember him bitching about it.

He bought a Tundra about a month later.

And then his marriage collapsed. Lesson #42 of why Toyotas are bad.

[Bueller]

Originally Posted by Grainbelt

Can I replace the motor mounts in a Focus in a parking lot?

Sure, depending on skill level and tools available. I've gutted both front wheel drive and rear wheel drive powertrains without a lift. Very doable if you know what you are doing. A quick google search yielded about 10 billion hits, complete with video. Hmm, I wonder if it's a common problem

[Grainbelt]

Originally Posted by jdiaz

And then his marriage collapsed. Lesson #42 of why Toyotas are bad.

That wasn't until they sold Mom's Passat for a RAV4. Must have been one Toyota too far.

[Anorak]

Originally Posted by adam_c_eckhardt

What would Bueller do?

Bueller would buy another Jeep and make a big fuss about it.

[Bueller]

Originally Posted by Guano11

I think I have a valve guide question! 1996 Toyota Rav4, 190K, 2.0L, 5spd, FWD -- losing a bit of oil between changes (maybe 1/2 qt over 1000 miles or so, when before it didn't lose any). Telltale puff of tailpipe smoke on startup now, so I'm thinking valve guides. But I'm not a mechanic so not sure if I'm barking up the wrong tree here. Anyway....

Questions:
1. Can the oil loss be solely attributed to valve guides, or should I assume rings are going as well? No apparent oil burning while driving, but I've never followed the car myself....
2. How "invasive" (aka expensive) is a typical valve guide job on the 4cyl? I there anything that should be done while we're in there? (Timing belt, water pump, cam seals, etc are all recent).
3. What if I don't do anything at all? Vehicle is otherwise stone-ax reliable and a worry-free runabout, as in I don't care who parks next to it. At all. Ever. Can I run it as-is for another 25K? 50K?

Here's to the thread getting some legs.....

1) A compression and leakdown test will tell you the source of the oil consumption. At that mileage it could be either (rings or valve seals, not necessarily valve guides)

2 & 3) With oil usage of a quart every 2000 miles, I wouldn't spend any money trying to fix it. The biggest risk is probably the ultimate poisoning of the catalytic converter if the engine starts burning considerably more oil

[Bueller]

Originally Posted by adam_c_eckhardt

The other day my truck smelled like an electrical fire. Pulled over, opened hood and found nothing. Could still smell it, but saw no smoke and no evidence of excess heat.

Yesterday morning (which was below zero) I started the truck and all the warning lights on the dash came on. The display cycled through all the warnings like "service stabilitrack" etc... Oil pressure gauge was fine and truck seemed to be running fine so I drove it 2 miles to work.

At lunch time I started the truck and it was down to just the "Service stabilitrack" warning.

At quitting time all the warnings were gone.

This is the second time it's happened and both dealers I've been to say they could find nothing wrong with it. Truck is still under warranty.

What would Bueller do?

[Bueller]

Originally Posted by Anorak

Bueller would buy another Jeep and make a big fuss about it.

I'm the skinny one on the left, which makes you the fat one on the right.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840044

[Anorak]

Originally Posted by Bueller

I'm the skinny one on the left, which makes you the fat one on the right.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840044

Lol huh? I guess I've been lax on mentioning it in every thread I can find. I've dropped this into a bunch of threads, though. My garage where I live.

[Squelch]

I drove the Z to work today and cleaned the engine out good...

I also found out that the tires are quite slippery when they're cold! The traction control is nice - it feels like it gives me just enough yaw to feel fun, but not so much that it's dangerous.

[Bueller]

Originally Posted by Anorak

Lol huh? I guess I've been lax on mentioning it in every thread I can find. I've dropped this into a bunch of threads, though. My garage where I live.

You need two in order to have a fighting chance that one will actually run at any particular moment.

[Motornoggin]

Big car guy. Been in the industry in one capacity or another for most of my life.

Here is a pic of my current vintage car.


I'm considering putting it on the market so I can use the funds to build a Lakester (Lakes Modified Roadster, A.K.A. old hot rod). I have most of the drive train, just need chassis and body.

Also, I'm not typically a Ford guy, but am completely anthralled with the Ecoboost F-150. I live at 7200+ ft. elevation and the turbos really even the playing field.

Also, I am really wanting a Hyundia Genesis Coupe with the 2.0 Turbo. Again, I drove one a while back and it has not left the pleasure center of my brain... Want...

[Anorak]

Originally Posted by Bueller

You need two in order to have a fighting chance that one will actually run at any particular moment.

Not true with the very high end British cars but there are all sort of weird ways they did things on the pre VW models like the 1999 Azure on the left, though. The brake system is an excellent example. A high pressure system that uses green mineral oil with two calipers on each front wheel. The brake pedal is just a valve which controls pressure to the wheels. The system has a couple spherical accumulators stamped with a chevron indicating the Citroen origin.

If both brake warning lights come on, stop NOW. You have enough pressure for about a couple dozen brake applications and the you have NO brakes, except the parking brake. I'm serious, pretend all the fluid leaked out of the brakes on your car. No brakes.

To r&r the rear brake rotors is billed at 5.2 hours. Here is what the assembly looks like. Have you ever seen what looks like a full floating hub on an independent rear suspension.




The one on the right is a 2007. From the underside, it looks German.

[vtwin]

Originally Posted by Guano11

I think I have a valve guide question! 1996 Toyota Rav4, 190K, 2.0L, 5spd, FWD -- losing a bit of oil between changes (maybe 1/2 qt over 1000 miles or so, when before it didn't lose any). Telltale puff of tailpipe smoke on startup now, so I'm thinking valve guides. But I'm not a mechanic so not sure if I'm barking up the wrong tree here. Anyway....

Questions:
1. Can the oil loss be solely attributed to valve guides, or should I assume rings are going as well? No apparent oil burning while driving, but I've never followed the car myself....
2. How "invasive" (aka expensive) is a typical valve guide job on the 4cyl? I there anything that should be done while we're in there? (Timing belt, water pump, cam seals, etc are all recent).
3. What if I don't do anything at all? Vehicle is otherwise stone-ax reliable and a worry-free runabout, as in I don't care who parks next to it. At all. Ever. Can I run it as-is for another 25K? 50K?

Here's to the thread getting some legs.....

Guides are probably good, change the valve seals. It can be done without removing the head.