Rusting heads on bolts

[flatland964]

I have tried searching both the forum and the internet, but haven't quite found an answer to this question.

Many of the hexhead bolts that I have had to remove on a couple of my BMW bikes (caliper mounting bolts, fork brace bolts, etc.) are rusting in the recess of the head, where the hex socket contacts the bolt. It is especially bad on the F650GS, but also shows on the caliper bolts on the 1150GS. Is this preventable (or at least mitigated) by some practice in how they are removed/installed, or by a better quality toolset? If it is my toolset, what do you look for in a set that is less prone to causing this problem?

Thanks,
-Tom

[def]

Many of the male steel fasteners on motorcycles tend to rust after applying a wrench to them. Typically, the tool damages the anti-corrosion plating applied to the fastener. Plated steel washers and lock washers suffer the same problem as do the female threads.

The problem is especially bad in humid climates near the ocean.

The anti-corrosion plating used to be cadmium (a toxic, heavy metal) but has changed to zinc.

A spray of aerosol silicone can delay the appearance of the corrosion. Anti-seize may also help but be careful where you apply anti-seize.

Some substitute stainless steel fasteners but the SS fasteners are not as strong as the plated steel fasteners they replace so be careful if you replace with SS.

(Grew up in Lake Forest, lived in Buffalo Grove).

[GS Addict]

Common problem easily dealt with.

1) clean recess out with a Q tip soaked in clean solvent
2) blow recess out with compressed air
3) with a small paint brush, paint recess with zinc rich "Cold Galvanize" (available in spray or pint can at any industrial supply.
The resulting finish is flat grey, prohibits rusting, quite durable and lasts a long time even with tool bits applied to it.

[zoomdude57]

I use ACF-50, an aircraft anticorrosive spray on all the exposed metal bits on my bikes (brake rotors excluded of course!). Also works wonders on electrical connections. If in the US, you can get it from Aircraft Spruce.

[flatland964]

Thanks for the suggestions GS Addict and zoomdude, I will look into them.

Def, I am out in the Western Suburbs, but have friends in Lake Forest. Pretty area, but I'm guessing that, for motorcycling, you prefer where are now.

[zoomdude57]

Just a follow up, the ACF-50 is preventive; it won't remove existing corrosion.

[rdrunner]

What about Boesheild T9? I use it on my truck shocks and snowblower and it works great. It's just a waxy film with a corrosion preventative.

[BobbySands]

The cold galv we apply on my job isn't durable for any amount of time. Perhaps GS Addict is using something better?

I've coated my hardware with never seize which works a treat but isn't durable at all. A good ride in hard rain will wash a lot of it away.

[def]

Originally Posted by flatland964

Thanks for the suggestions GS Addict and zoomdude, I will look into them.

Def, I am out in the Western Suburbs, but have friends in Lake Forest. Pretty area, but I'm guessing that, for motorcycling, you prefer where are now.

I prefer anywhere I can ride without traffic. Rural Alabama is just fine. So far, we don't have any governors making license plates...only mayors.

Stay away from Batavia...some of those accelerated particles might get loose.

My brother (Libertyville) maintains a friends motorcycle collection in Lake Forest. When I visit, I just go for the cold beers at The Lantern or to watch the Bears practice (and they need plenty).

73

[Beezer]

Marhide

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-m...9-p-17215.aspx

or POR15

http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-black...aint-pint.html


I'm not endorsing either of the above venders but the products work

[going south]

I live in a Humid climate on the ocean, and have been looking at those S.S. bolt sets for bikes, are they that much softer,
weaker material??? I don't want to grab a hand full of brake and tear every thing up... and fail to stop....

Thanks in ADVance....

[flatland964]

For the bolts that I am having issues with (caliper mounting, fork braces, etc.) I would be concerned about using a material other than OEM spec and possibly changing torque values. So I gather the "solution", to the extent there is one, is to replace any bolts that are already unsightly and then use one of the types of rust preventatives on them occasionally, and certainly after any contact with the bolt.

[def]

Originally Posted by going south

I live in a Humid climate on the ocean, and have been looking at those S.S. bolt sets for bikes, are they that much softer,
weaker material??? I don't want to grab a hand full of brake and tear every thing up... and fail to stop....

Thanks in ADVance....

First, you'll need to know the particular stainless steel used. There is a great variety and I am not familiar with which SS alloy we're talking about here.

Next, you'll need to know the steel fastener you're replacing and the modulus of the replacement SS fastener.

Some SS alloys possess much lower modulus of elasticity and are not as strong as the same sized steel fastener.

I am reluctant to make a recommendation that might endanger you.

If I were replacing OE steel fasteners with SS alloy, I would consult with an expert. Some of the fasteners on our motorcycles are under considerable stretch and tension when torqued to specification (wheel bolts come to mind) and a SS replacement might yield considerably more that the steel equivalent being replaced.

Also, many fasteners are under shear and could break if loads are exceeded.

There is no easy answer. Do your homework and proceed with caution.

[def]

Originally Posted by flatland964

For the bolts that I am having issues with (caliper mounting, fork braces, etc.) I would be concerned about using a material other than OEM spec and possibly changing torque values. So I gather the "solution", to the extent there is one, is to replace any bolts that are already unsightly and then use one of the types of rust preventatives on them occasionally, and certainly after any contact with the bolt.

You might also want to consider having the fasteners in question replated. I used to do that with the fasteners used on the old Brit bikes I rebuilt. Back then, they were cadmium plated. Nowadays, they are usually plated with zinc.

[going south]

Thanks def, I kinda figured that, I was hoping you had some magic Kool aid up your sleeve....