ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-27-2013, 04:47 PM   #166
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
puquio, peru to nasca, peru

wednesday, march 27, 2013

a note to the concerned: don't worry too much. i won't get myself into anything that i can't get myself out of. i'm industrious, creative, smart and a survivor. and i always have the spot tracker SOS button if i ever get into any real trouble. when writing these entries, i'm not thinking about how it might be taken from a couple thousand miles away - i'm just writing unfiltered. i have a feeling that my being on another continent, in strange countries and cities, might intensify the experience for those reading this account. for me, it all seems fairly tame and normal. i am always being careful.


puquio to nasca by porkandcorn, on Flickr

today was a much easier day. i was awakened by two brazilian motorcycles coming out of storefront where i parked my bike the night before. a 1200 suzuki bandit, and a cb 1300 honda. luis and rose were on the suzuki, and gilberto (a tortuga) on the honda. they were heading the same direction, to nasca, so i joined them for breakfast and we rode out together.


luis um brasileiro, puquio, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


parking 1, puquio, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


parking 2, puquio, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


parking 3, puquio, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


breakfast com brasileiros, puquio, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

we climbed yet another range of mountains, and found ourselves in the galera national reserve by 10am. the temperatures were cold, because it was early. but i was warm this time. we passed fields of vicuñas (smaller than, but similar to, llamas). i thought that it might be nice if the peruvian government placed a couple of taxidermy vicuñas near the road to make photos easier - they are very timid and therefore always appear very small in the background running away from you.


reserva nacional pampa galeras, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


bikes, reserva nacional pampa galeras, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


amigos, reserva nacional pampa galeras, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

at times we rode together, chasing each other through the curves. the entire day's ride was a blast. at times, i fell behind to take photos. the range dropped down from 15,000 to only about 2,000 feet in a series of very intense curves that lasted for about 40 kilometers. i took my time, and enjoyed the change in scenery from lush and green to dry, brown and barren. the desert and the dunes rose up out of the sea, which you could barely see through the thick air to the west.


vista, reserva nacional pampa galeras, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


descending into nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


twisties east of nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


yes, nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


moto heaven, nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


drop into nasca by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i told them that i was heading to the casa andina hotel in nasca, and found them parked and talking on the curb when i finally arrived 10 minutes or so after they did. later, we shared a cab out to the airport to hire an airplane to view the famous nasca lines. i was on the fence about doing it. but i went with the flow. we were told 90 USD at the hotel. we arrived to the airport and it was 90. plus 6% credit card fee. plus 25 dollar airport tax.


nasca airport, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


brasileiros drive a hard bargain, nasca airport, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


tiny taxi to the airport, nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the tax pushed luis over the line, and he insisted on a refund, feeling like we were getting gringo'ed to death. i admired his resolve and followed suit. i wish i were more often fiscally principled like this. the 'gringo' tax really ads up, and you become both accustomed to it at times, and other time disgusted by it. (like the gas in bolivia that costs three times more for foreigners). given i was on the fence about the flight, i was more than happy to enjoy a walk back to the main road to hail a cab. (the airport personnel were less than excited to call us a taxi.) it's amazing how on this trip, i'm able to take anything and everything in stride. nothing seems to bother me here. i hope i can take that back home with me.


too many people in the taxi, nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


alpaca dashboard, nasca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


would you get a massage in this hole?, nasca airport, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

tomorrow, to lima. tonight, to dine with my new friends.

porkandcorn screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 08:05 PM
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 09:53 AM   #167
vintagespeed
fNg
 
vintagespeed's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
Oddometer: 1,566
very cool. link to nazca lines.
__________________
'12 Triumph ST3R corner raper (sold, sadly), '09 HusaBerg FE570 (also sold) and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
vintagespeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 05:50 PM   #168
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
nazca, peru to lima, peru

thursday, march 28, 2013

all of my clothes permanently smell like mold. i'm going to have to burn them all when i get home.

i saw some more nazca lines on the way out of town this morning. how the ancient nazcans knew that there would be a restaurant named 'la variante' and that it would be 100 meters from this hill, i have no idea. they must have been much more advanced than previously thought...


more nazca lines, nazca, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the ride up to lima today was pretty abysmal. 6 hours of heavy traffic with wind-blown sand and dust. a couple hours south of lima, the road finally expanded to a 4-lane freeway. i've never been so happy. the two lane highway was a nightmare. there is a center dividing line, but no one seems to care about that. the only rule for cars passing trucks, or trucks passing cars seems to be 'do it whenever it makes the least sense.' and if you are a motorcycle coming in the opposite direction, you better have an escape route and a lot of shoulder, because you don't matter to them. they just keep passing and expect you to get out of the way. i was considering that it might be better to be nearly freezing to death alone on another high mountain pass.


boring roads south of lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i needed a brief repose from the tedium, so i stopped off in the resort town of paracas, peru. this is the site of an in-famous andean society known for binding the skulls of children to purposefully deform them. a museum on the main drag features several of the actual skulls, pulled from buried sites discovered in the 1920's. some have suggested alien influence. i've never seen an alien skull before, but the ones i saw and held today were pretty creepy indeed.


paracas oblong skull, paracas, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


paracas skull, paracas, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


paracas mom, dad, and baby, paracas, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


juan the museum guy, paracas, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

riding into lima was interesting. i wish i had a shot of the traffic i was riding through, but if i tried to capture one, i wouldn't be here to write about it. again, rules don't seem to apply.


lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

on that topic, i am going to have a difficult time adjusting back to traffic rules in the states. i've turned into a south american in that regard. it's a survival mechanism. if you don't drive fast and crazy here, you are actually in much more danger. i've become fond of splitting lanes, speeding all the time, using both left medium and right shoulders to pass, driving on sidewalks, parking on sidewalks, ignoring police, not paying at toll-booths, and many other things that are now second nature.

had a run on the beach to clear the head after fighting 2 hours of traffic to the hostel. off to explore the miraflores neighborhood, where i'm staying for the next day or two. lima has an un-official population of 12 million people. i hope to meet all of them.


house project hostel, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


sunset 2 on miraflores beach, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


sunset on miraflores beach, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

porkandcorn screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 07:56 PM
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 06:09 PM   #169
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
stop the presses: porkandcorn in the news!

KATU news channel in portland,oregon got a sizzling-hot tip that a man and his duck were on an exotic south american moto-adventure. now i'm like, famous, n' stuff.

KATU.com: Fritz Junker South America motorcycle ride


katu story by porkandcorn, on Flickr
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2013, 10:11 AM   #170
vintagespeed
fNg
 
vintagespeed's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
Oddometer: 1,566
Quote:
Originally Posted by porkandcorn View Post
...a man and his duck were on an exotic south american moto-adventure...
that is a pretty good read. i especially could relate to you describing the solitude of the travel, i think that's the part that we miss most when the trip is over. the time we get to spend inside ourselves.

or some shit like that.
__________________
'12 Triumph ST3R corner raper (sold, sadly), '09 HusaBerg FE570 (also sold) and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
vintagespeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 11:41 AM   #171
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
lima, peru

saturday, march 30, 2013

if you can't say anything nice, you are not supposed to say anything at all… but that would make fore a pretty dull, even dishonest, blog. i'm observing and stating what i see, hopefully without judgment.

that said, i'm not crazy about lima, peru. there's an uneasiness about this place that feels different from other large cities that i've seen here in south america. it's a tension - it's in the eyes of the people you see on the streets. but i am here until monday when i can buy a new rear tire to take with me into the mountains north of here.


miraflores cliffs, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

since i've been traveling, i have repeatedly been told that when in lima, stay in the miraflores neighborhood. it's infrastructure is modern, and it's relatively safe. but it leaves much to be desired. at night, it takes on a more aggressive, weird character. the restauranteurs are again fighting for gringo dollars, each serving the same things. around midnight, some shady characters start to come out from under the rocks, standing around, staring, talking about who knows what as you pass by. it's not just my observation - other travelers have mentioned similar sentiments. i've been told other neighborhoods are unsafe. but what am i missing in those places?


miraflores beach, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

maybe i am not seeing the right places? maybe i'm just 'explored out' for the moment, and not making a good effort. but places are just places, buildings, streets. places are really only defined by their human element. my interaction here has mainly been with other travelers - australians, swedes, germans, brits, argentines, brazilians. but i have tried to connect with peruvians. despite efforts, the only contact i've been able to establish is with the owners and operators of this very nice hostel - an oasis of calm, relaxation, and laziness within the confines of the miraflores neighborhood. otherwise, the peruvians here seem not to want to interact with me. maybe i'm too tall and scary? i don't really understand.


miraflores waves, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i became frustrated, very frustrated looking for a tire on friday (holiday), saturday (not technically a holiday, but still a holiday.) i gave up after i finally found a motoshop yesterday afternoon, and had the front door slammed in my face because i arrived 5 minutes before they were to close. those are clearly not real motorcyclist. no true motorcyclist would ever do that to another motorcyclist in need.

so now i'm just accepting the futile nature of my simple task on this religious holiday, this sunday, and sitting around in a hammock and staring at the sky. i've gone for a walk on the beach, laid on the pebbles and rocks that make up the 'beaches' of lima, eaten ceviche at every and any possible opportunity (it's very good here - even from the supermarket), and in general making an effort to be as lazy as possible today before i (hopefully) find a tire and ride out of here in the morning. i'm looking forward to the mountains, the huascarán national park region, that is next. this is the highest range in the andes, and is sure to produce some amazing photos.


lima bean, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


ceviche obsession, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


ceviche in the supermarket, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

this hostel, the house project, is fantastic. there is a courtyard here that is hard to leave. the people who are staying here are wonderful, nice, interactive, curious. this place alone has been worth the trip to lima.


house project hostel, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


house project hostel courtyard, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i only have 5 weeks left to make it to cartegena, colombia. i am at the point in my adventure where there is a strong sense of and 'end' in sight and in mind. i am doing my best to keep to the here and now, but these future thoughts creep in. funny how easily such a simple thing as a thought of the future, or of the days past, can take you away from what really matters… but each of these diversions is an opportunity for growth.


miraflores sunset, lima, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 03:55 PM   #172
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
lima, peru to caraz, peru

monday, april 1, 2013

lima, peru to huaraz, peru

i found my rear tire in a strange industrial area of lima that was about as sketchy a place as i would ever want to put myself in. i walked out with a brand new michelin anakee 2 tire, a bit more pavement oriented than i would prefer, but better than a full-blown enduro tire (continental tkc 80) that was my alternative.

i left the warehouse at 10am. i finally reached the northern edge of lima 2 hours later. i have never seen anything like that stretch of pavement, and never hope to again. it was the most smog-choked, chaotic, and terrifying 2 hours of traffic i've ever encountered in my life. i was sick from the exhaust of thousands of poorly-maintained engines, spewing out thick black smoke. the worst are the big, old trucks. my helmet visor had a thick film on it once i reached the clear air of the coast north of town.

i climbed precipitously up into the andes toward huaraz. i hit some light rain at about 11,000 feet, that stuck around until i landed at the monkeywasi hostel in huaraz. the hostel was ranked #1 on tripadvisor. why, i have no idea. i would not recommend it to anyone, and might even do a rare review stating as much. but i was out of the rain.


climb to hauraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


rock face west of huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


hill west of huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


steam on the road, huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


cordillera blanca south, huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


detour, west of huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

--------------------------------


tuesday, april 2, 2013

huaraz, peru to caraz, peru

note: there is a shortage of quality photos. i haven't been feeling up to it.

if portions of my recent posts seem a bit negative, i apologize. it reflects a generalized malaise that i've been struggling with for the last week or two. i'm not really certain what is going on, or when or where this began.

a close friend suggested that i am being too hard on myself - expecting too much out of this journey. i'm certain that's true. it's in my nature to expect too much of myself. yet, there is so much time, money, and mental/physical effort invested into this adventure, that i get frustrated when i'm not having an epic, memorable, or blog-worthy time. i know that's ridiculous, unrealistic, and unfair to myself.

now, having left the patio at the hostel in lima, i'm realizing how much i was enjoying that down time - and frankly the company and conversation in english with others who understand the travel fatigue that i'm clearly experiencing. i've been bordering on depressed since leaving that place - back out on the road to face the constant barrage of the unknown. i know that i am extremely lucky to be doing what i'm doing, but it doesn't feel that way to me right now. i'm tempted by thoughts of my bed, my city, my friends - and the ease of the familiar. the same familiar that, prior to leaving for this trip, tormented me in a similar manner.

there is a veil of grey pulled over the peruvian andes, and it's not the cloud-cover. this is such a beautiful location, but i can't see what's right in front of me. i know this is a normal part of the emotional journey. i just thought that i had already been through these feelings earlier on. i wasn't expecting to feel this way now.

i learned last night that the cordillera blanca is the second tallest mountain range on the planet, after the himalayas. there are 33 peaks over 18,000 feet. unfortunately, it is in a bit of a wet season right now, and the stunningly intense peaks are covered most of the day. there are heavy rains that start around noon and last into the afternoon. even though i wasn't feeling up to it, i faked a smile and pointed the triumph up into the mountains this morning. i got lost twice looking for the road that would take me up past the pastoruri glacier (a road that travels at over 17,000 ft.) everyone was giving me conflicting information, and i had no detailed map to consult (was kicking myself for not finding one, but i simply forgot to do it).

so i gave up on the glacier and opted for a road that would lead me "behind" the mountain range, on a series of roads to the east and north. the hope was to do a loop around the peaks, and wind up in caraz, peru, about 90 minutes as the bird flies to the north of huaraz. however, about 45 minutes into the route, i spoke with a couple of highway patrol officers at a checkpoint, and they strongly recommended against the ride. they said the gravel was very dangerous in the rain, even for trucks, and that there are regularly ice and snow storms at the tops of the passes in the afternoon. i turned around, feeling completely defeated by the day and by my mood. one out of my control, one within my control.

i think part of my frustration is that i want to see everything, but knowing that i can't. i spoke with some backpackers at the hostel last night who had been up on the glacier, been on epic hikes to secluded alpine lakes in the region. they didn't seem to be hampered by the weather. and i couldn't help but think to myself - "what am i doing wrong?"

(the rains have started up again. a small, dirty boy just walked into the café where i'm typing this up… he said "buenos dias mi gringo" in a very kind, sincere manner. he wanted to sell me a local paper for 0.70 soles. i asked him about the paper, and how his sales are going today. he basically answered, "i can't complain." i bought a copy. i like his attitude.)

i'm not sure what i am going to do, or where i am going to go next. i guess i need to find some days that are less complicated, and that allow me to relax a bit more. i suppose that means to head back out to the coast, where more hammocks and ceviche await… and move closer to ecuador.

i feel a little ridiculous airing my pain to those of you following along. i continue to be honest in hopes that someone else will benefit from it in some way.


downtown huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


looking for the glacier, huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


roadside doggie, huaraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


moto taxi, caraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


plaza de los armas, caraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


a content and safe moto, caraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

porkandcorn screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 06:22 PM
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 04:56 PM   #173
TheLorax
Comitted Lurker
 
TheLorax's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: PacNW
Oddometer: 30
Take heart traveler

Hit the same April rains when I was in the mountains of Peru. Thought I would triumphantly descend into the Amazon basin on the far side. But there was just a lot of washed out roads and swollen river crossings. Best laid plans and all.

I don't know how you loners make these rides anyway. I always travel with at least one friendly face. Yes, I probably miss some contact with the culture that way. It's a trade off and we each make our own bed. I have certainly had occasion to wish I were alone.

I'd buy you a beer if you weren't so damn far away. Here in BridgeTown it was an unseasonably warm and sunny Easter weekend and I wished I was out wandering the world. Grass is always greener...........

How's the bike running? Hard reset seems to be doing the job?

K
TheLorax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 05:20 PM   #174
Jick Magger
Exile on Main Street
 
Jick Magger's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Okanagan Valley BC, Canada/Scottsdale, Arizona
Oddometer: 808
Quote:
Originally Posted by porkandcorn View Post
monday, april 1, 2013

if portions of my recent posts seem a bit negative, i apologize. it reflects a generalized malaise that i've been struggling with for the last week or two. i'm not really certain what is going on, or when or where this began.

a close friend suggested that i am being too hard on myself - expecting too much out of this journey. i'm certain that's true. it's in my nature to expect too much of myself. yet, there is so much time, money, and mental/physical effort invested into this adventure, that i get frustrated when i'm not having an epic, memorable, or blog-worthy time. i know that's ridiculous, unrealistic, and unfair to myself.

now, having left the patio at the hostel in lima, i'm realizing how much i was enjoying that down time - and frankly the company and conversation in english with others who understand the travel fatigue that i'm clearly experiencing. i've been bordering on depressed since leaving that place - back out on the road to face the constant barrage of the unknown. i know that i am extremely lucky to be doing what i'm doing, but it doesn't feel that way to me right now. i'm tempted by thoughts of my bed, my city, my friends - and the ease of the familiar. the same familiar that, prior to leaving for this trip, tormented me in a similar manner.

there is a veil of grey pulled over the peruvian andes, and it's not the cloud-cover. this is such a beautiful location, but i can't see what's right in front of me. i know this is a normal part of the emotional journey. i just thought that i had already been through these feelings earlier on. i wasn't expecting to feel this way now.
Hey Fritz

Thanks for posting your story and photos. I am enjoying following along with you on your journey. The loneliness you feel on occasion is to be expected. It's great that you are relaying the real story. The highs and the lows. Keep your spirits up as there are many more highs to come. If you have the chance, grab yourself a couple of beers and watch a few of this fellow travellers, short videos from the road. He is experiencing the same lows at times. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870156 Travel safe and enjoy.
__________________
"Blessed are the Cheesemakers"


RIde Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...t=Rolling+jick
Jick Magger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2013, 06:32 PM   #175
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLorax View Post

How's the bike running? Hard reset seems to be doing the job?

K
the bike is running great. the hard reset works. it still gets confused with the extreme altitude changes, but now i have a method to remedy the problem. still in love with the tiger.
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 01:10 PM   #176
vintagespeed
fNg
 
vintagespeed's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
Oddometer: 1,566
the next time you're feeling down or stressed about making your next destination, do this.

turn off your phone.
sit down on a grassy knoll.
realize that there isn't anything else you have to do at the moment.


the rest of us will do the phone answering, the email replying, the endless meetings where we try not to fall asleep & spill coffee all over the same boring people we sit next to every meeting, staring at the cubical wall and those same papers that we've had pinned to it for years.

we're still with ya and enjoying the ride, very much the beautiful pictures and wonderful stories.
__________________
'12 Triumph ST3R corner raper (sold, sadly), '09 HusaBerg FE570 (also sold) and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :)

TAT-2013: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=913898
SoCal_NoDak-2012: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203
vintagespeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 02:53 PM   #177
=[BAD]=TEX
Adventurer
 
=[BAD]=TEX's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lindale TX
Oddometer: 45
Awesome photos brother!!
I may have missed it, but what camera are you using?
=[BAD]=TEX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2013, 07:58 PM   #178
WeazyBuddha
Carbon-Based Humanoid
 
WeazyBuddha's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: RGV Texas
Oddometer: 4,317
Still enjoying the RR. I, for one, appreciate the honesty in your writing which allows us, the readers, to identify with your experience more fully; the highs and lows of this type of traveling.

I second the grassy knoll idea but would add some meditation, stay in the moment and experience it fully.

There will be days in your future when you'll look back on your trip and a smile will light up your face accompanied with feelings of satisfaction and accomplishment.

__________________
A drunk driver killed someone I love
WeazyBuddha is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2013, 08:31 PM   #179
GastonUSAChile
Studly Adventurer
 
GastonUSAChile's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Miami,USA
Oddometer: 771
Dear Fritz,

Great narrative and feelings, same as for the graphics. You have been riding since January alone and counting everyday just alone. Amplify the feeling when some language barrier make things a huge blended 'smoothie' in your mind.
I 've just spent a week in the Georgia forest, secluded in the nature (with good company). Just a week and it felt like a month. I was living for almost 5 month in Lima (with good company) and it felt like a whole year.
I could imagine what it feel to you being 3 month on the road and not being really in one place for more than a week. I think not even real nomads could sustain a normal life like that.
I have just met a walker, not Johnny by the way but a guy that has been walking over the world for over 6 years. All over Europe and this time he was just ending the Appalachian Trail from Maine to Georgia were I met him the other day. Well, an exceptional vagabond leaving on food stamps hahaha!

Don't push your mind, try to ride with somebody else. What about a girl 2up? hahaha well, for a while..... Just slow down, see just what you most can see at a different pace, later, another story you will tell. Enjoy everyday !!!!

Remember, everyday before you mount the bike, 'Work and routine is waiting for you up north', then ride at 55 m/hr. and smell the air.


Be safe buddy!!!
__________________
SAmericaXplorer
Export/Import Adventure Logistics
Motorbikes & Overland Vehicles

US SHIPPING Now open: JUNE-JULY 2014 Share Container CHILE to MIAMI or HOUSTON
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=741582 www.samericaxplorer.net
GastonUSAChile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2013, 06:55 PM   #180
porkandcorn OP
FortesFortunaAdiuvat
 
porkandcorn's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 296
caraz, peru to puerto chicama, peru

wednesday, april 3. 2013

i woke up on the 'correct side of the bed' this morning and set off toward the coast. the last two days have been very full of both activity and emotion, and therefore time seems to have slowed down a bit. this brought back memories of the beginning of my trip and the odd gaps of time that seemed to take forever to pass.

i left the hotel at 7am. just north of caraz was a place called cañon del pato (duck canyon), so i don't know how it would be possible to pass that opportunity for my yellow, rubbery companion. he seemed quite pleased to be navigating through an intense, deep ravine that cut through the corderilla blanca.


pato deep in the cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

the canyon was a serious of raw-cut mountain tunnels and steep rock cliffs. some of the tunnels were up to 100 meters long, winding, with no lights and half flooded with water seeping in through the mountain above. but only on one occasion did i encounter a big truck coming in the opposite direction. he stopped about a meter from my tire, i think to make a point that he would not be going anywhere in reverse. i had to push my bike back with my feet to the tunnel entrance about 20 meters behind me, and let the truck pass.


a dark, scary place, cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the light at the end of the tunnel, cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


steep cliffs 2, cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


more cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


steep cliffs, cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


into the cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


hydro plant, cañon del pato, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

as is standard protocol in the peruvian andes, the road i planned to take back to the coast was cut in half by a bridge that was closed for construction, so i rode the one hour back to caraz to catch another option that was just 5 miles south of town. this road proved to be fantastic - a one lane, entirely paved, switchback-laden masterpiece that climbed 10,000 feet in 20 miles. usually, the road was no more than 10 feet across, and perched right on the edge of very, very high cliffs that fell into nothingness. the moisture from the valley below eventually turned to clouds, and i could see the wisps of clouds racing up past me, climbing to the peaks above. a beautiful road if you are ever in the area.


where the corderilla blanca should be, caraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


moto heaven, west of caraz, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


very deep canyon, pamparomas, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


dr. suess cactus, pamparomas, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

although i was earlier frustrated by the corderilla blanca and my inability to explore the area, i now see this as an opportunity to return another time. i would like to go back, maybe with a friend, and spent 2 or 3 weeks backpacking the mountains and maybe doing a summit of one of the higher peaks. on foot would be a better way to see the area, and feel like the time spent riding to and from the mountains was worth it if only to set this plan for some day in the future.

i hit the pass and bid farewell to the white mountains. the other side of the range was less exciting and more exhausting. 160 kilometers of very sharp curves. rounding corners for 3 hours is hell on your shoulders, back and neck. but i pushed through, knowing that there was a beach at the end of the day with waves crashing to help me sleep.


paso chicarhuapunta, 43,14 meters, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


the descent, moro, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

after the 3 hours of curves was another 3 hours of freeway - dodging oncoming trucks and cars, fighting wind-blown sand, and keeping hydrated as i blasted through the coastal desert. i enjoyed the high speed and the straight pavement after crossing the andes for a 5th time. the freeway cut through a desert valley, with eerie and desolate mountains lapping up to either side of the road.


near san jacinto, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


desert highway, chao, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

i finally arrived in puerto chicama, peru. i had found it on my paper map earlier in the day. the map said "surf beach". when i pulled into town, 3 dudes were watching some kids play soccer on the beach. they looked like surfers. an argentine, a brazilian, and an american. they told me that i had just pulled up to the beach that had the longest left-breaking wave in the world. puerto chicama is a holy place for surfers. once i rode up the small hill to the area where the 5 or 6 hotels were clustered, i saw the famous wave. i keyed off the ignition, and watched a surfer pop up on a wave. he must have been riding it for a least 2 minutes before he dropped off either for exhaustion or to catch another. i knew i would spend the next morning in the water remembering how to surf.


peruvian duck lover, puerto chicama, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


sunset, puerto chicama, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


sunset from el hombre, puerto chicama, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr


me looking pensive, but fooling no one, puerto chicama, peru by porkandcorn, on Flickr

porkandcorn screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 06:13 PM
porkandcorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014