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Old 01-06-2013, 11:23 AM   #1
Lee 303 OP
razryadka
 
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What is a good way to treat seat pan rust



I bought this bike last month and now I'm considering uncovering the seat to repaint the rusted areas. I have seen plenty other rust buckets for sale online. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks
(If it moves salute it otherwise paint it gray)

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Old 01-06-2013, 11:35 AM   #2
pbarmy
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These people have some great products,perhaps one would work on your seat.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutio...FYpFMgodExMA8g
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:37 PM   #3
disston
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The POR-15 products are excellent and everything sold by Eastwood's is top of the line. But I don't know if you want to go to that much trouble. Remove the rust with a mild acid syuch as Naval Jelly, that's made to do just this. Then a good primer and paint. May last as long as the more expensive treatments.

The seats do become unsaveable if left to rust for too long. Yours doesn't look too bad yet. The metal where the seat hinges bolt to is a trouble area.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:31 PM   #4
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I'm currently repairing my seat pan which is in much worse shape, using POR 15 and fiberglass matting. Hinges were in good shape but alot of holes on the rest of it. If you're getting the seat redone powder coating is always an option.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:15 PM   #5
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Rustoleum Rust Reformer works pretty well....it leaves a black, paintable surface. Rust on the battery box and other bits of frame rust (like the little rust areas on the OP's picture) go away quick.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:08 PM   #6
Stan_R80/7
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There are products, such as POR15 that work by encapsulating the rust. I have used most all the rust converters, POR 15, and similar, but prefer phosphoric acid because it allows determining the metal condition. I found using a small brass or stainless wire brush and some naval jelly and/or 'etch and prep' works well. The brush is to remove any flaking/crumbling rust to allow acid to contact the rusted metal. Phosphoric acid chemically changes the rusted metal to a grey surface that can be primed and is somewhat rust resistant. YMMV.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:06 PM   #7
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+1 on Rust Reformer. A good wire brushing first, to the point where dust no longer rises, then a rinse and dry is sufficient prep.

It's not the same as blasting it, but it's nowhere near the work. Just depends on how thorough (or anal) you wanna be.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:52 PM   #8
gertiektn
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POR 15 Paint

I blasted and painted... this is the result.. came out good.
but have yet to figure out how to upload a pic to the thread from my pic album!
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:09 PM   #9
disston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gertiektn View Post
I blasted and painted... this is the result.. came out good.
but have yet to figure out how to upload a pic to the thread from my pic album!
"
AdvRider does not host pictures any more. You need a photo account that you can link to for photos. There are various ones that you can use Free. Many like Photo Bucket. I have trouble understanding that site so I use Image Shack, it seems easier to me. Here are directions for posting photos;

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:26 AM   #10
squiffynimrod
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POR-15. Works better on rust than clean metal. Just knock off the loose scaling stuff and hit it. I really like the way it works.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:34 AM   #11
jackd
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If your pan is that ugly on this side, then the back side which is up against moisture retaining foam is probably worse. I wouldn't waste time treating the one side only - take it apart and do it right.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:05 PM   #12
Cogswell
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Mine was pretty rough too, disassembled, media blasted, and powder coated.
It is typically worse where you can't see it against the foam like jackd said.







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Old 01-08-2013, 01:20 PM   #13
H96669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackd View Post
If your pan is that ugly on this side, then the back side which is up against moisture retaining foam is probably worse. I wouldn't waste time treating the one side only - take it apart and do it right.
I think I can see some rust on the foam at the vent holes. I hope it doesn't smell as bad as one I removed years ago, bloody foam was black from molds.

I usually glue some 1/4" or so "close cell" foam over the OEM. Waterproof so gives the OEM foam an extra barrier in case water seeps in from the cover. I don't like the wet butt thing.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:01 PM   #14
Lee 303 OP
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It was much worse inside but still worth saving.

glad I did't defer this task
at least the paint stuck to the foam
passed the smell test ok
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:18 PM   #15
Lee 303 OP
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Thanks to everyone who responded. I will try to post some photos of how the seat comes out. Right now I'm leaning towards good old Rustoleum red primer and a black top coat.I still have a can somewhere that I used on a sidecar project. Kind of surpising that Soviet paint held up better than the German stuff.

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