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Old 01-03-2014, 04:34 PM   #31
stickysidedown OP
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I was woken in the night by a small noise, I pretty much knew what it was before my eyes opened, I had a little company in the tents porch, and a quick bit of noise saw it off

In the morning though I felt a bit mean about not sharing my leftovers with the hungry rodent





when I left the site I offered a little square of chocolate to the ground for him, then minutes later after leaving felt guilty because I thought maybe chocolate is poisonous to little rodents, then I remembered I didn't much care either way, after all I'm a badass biker sort Grrrrr

The 'campsite' looked quite nice for being a patch of snow next to a queue of lorries that had used up their tacho hours, I think it was the addition of some blue to the sky, refreshing after the dull grey of late





I took the chance to sort the problem that had been plaguing me yesterday, the almost stalling had been the effect of a unlubed and loose drive chain snatching, something I would have recognised on a bigger machine but on a 4.5hp clunk it had felt quite different, also I'd been amazed at how much 4.5bhp had stretched the chain in such a short distance, this was the first bike I'd owned without a chain drive that wasn't at least an O ring





one peculiarity of working on the bike when it was quite cold was the effect it had on my digits, a couple of days ago I had cut the pad of my thumb just a tiny amount, I mean it didn't even draw blood, just a neat little incision where I'd fished around in my Kriega and found a disposable razor without its guard, now I work with my hands for a living so they get all sorts of knocks and scrapes in my normal day and I hadn't thought anything of it, but where my hands had been quite cold and then touched if only very briefly some metal tools and so forth, combined with a lack of circulation in the extremities anyway, well that tiny cut had deepened and spread, in fact it was now a tear all the way across the pad of my right thumb, it actually made gripping anything like the throttle remarkably uncomfortable and so I was resigned to riding the rest of the way until it healed many days later by holding the throttle between my palm and smallest two fingers and just swearing a little bit every time I pulled the brake lever and felt my thumb open up a little more inside my glove.

That aside I was in a good mood, if the skies stayed blue it would be ace to get to Sweden and ride on quieter roads, I had always known Germany would be a chore to cross and at this point I'd forgotten how boring Denmark is in terms of scenery.

I started thinking about all the great summer trips I'd made to Sweden for the Midsommers Parties, how crossing Denmark had been done in the blink of an eye, damn those rose tinted specs of mine, it was long and boring, plus more people were overtaking me in my lane then ever before, seriously WTF? they were blocking the next lane anyway, but rather than change lane they seemed to think a better idea was to pass within a couple of feet??

I was certainly pleased to reach the magnificent land link to Sweden, I didn't even bat an eyelid when the toll booth rejected my bank card, years ago my debit card had been rejected at 2am by an automatic filling station due to the 'Englishness' of my debit card, and anyway an attendant came and told me that here you have to go a manned booth on a bike because otherwise you get charged more as a car.

I paid with some Euros I had in my jacket and pootled towards Angeholm, I even looked out for a McDonalds to treat myself to a hot coffee and some electricity to charge my phone

It was a little while later I pulled into a shopping centre and looked for a bankomat ATM, time for some Kroner :-)

Only the hole in the wall told me something in Swedish, I don't know what, but it did not say - Hej, welcome to Sweden here are some Kroner

This was a bad situation, I'd hardly used up all my funds on my only expenditure, fuel, and I had a long way to go and get back yet?? had the bank put a stop on my card for some reason?

I had around 15 mins before the shopping centre closed, I was having to call the bank from my phone, a PAYG whilst plugging it into the only socket I'd found which was near the foyer and presumably for the cleaning team, the cold had been having a bad effect on my battery, in fact at the coldest point a full charge would last about 4 text messages, to make things worse the HTC model I was using switches itself on by a single press of the power button on the top of the phone, there was no need to hold it down or confirm it, so since I'd last charged it, it had come on in my pocket since Angelholm

The bank were next to useless, they told me a load of money had gone out on my bike insurance (seemingly I got charged twice by mistake) but also that some digits had been added to a payment for petrol in Belgium....Nothing good ever goes down in Belgium! It seems it was an error which had been reversed immediately, or an amount had been taken as part of a preauthorisation and then Id been charged only for the petrol used, but the returned monies would take an unknown period of time to reappear, thanks bank! basically they couldn't really tell me very much and they couldn't do anything to help by way of a temporary overdraft, so as I wandered out into the night, noting that it was a balmy -15c on the billboard display across the street I sent a text to the UK requesting a transfer, switched my phone off and looked for somewhere to lay up for a bit, I'd also learnt that DHL who were shipping my tyre studs back to Sweden for me were being a bit slow about it, so I had to sit tight for a few days.

I found a small triangle of trees near to a flyover of the main road North to Gothenburg, some sort of distribution centre for lorries was nearby, and under clear starry skies I rode the C90 into the middle of the trees and found a clearing to pitch my tent, I was anxious about the cash thing, battery life and distance had tied my hands and I hadn't a clue what was going on, but the scene here was beautiful, the sky was a curtain of obsidian, it's canopy punctured by diamonds that shone down upon the sparkling virgin snow around my tent, now guarded by well disciplined pine trees, stood tall and to attention.

I hunkered down for the wait

the first morning was the coldest to date, thick ice formed around the opening of my sleeping bag where my breath was able to condense and getting out my bag was definitely a necessary evil, but I was resigned to my situation and paid attention to my behaviour, I got up and got dressed, I gathered more snow and made sure I took on sufficient water after melting it down with some isotonic sachets, to inspire and belittle my efforts all at once I read the Ranulph Fiennes Autobiography Mad, Bad & Dangerous To Know from cover to cover, and suitably humbled I took care of washing, eating and other basics

I lived here in this clearing without disturbance for two nights in total until I had a thought, the weather had been good, I mean cold but it wasn't snowing and there had been clear skies, and if this changed the ride to the tyre studs in Gothenburg could be more dangerous and tricky.

So on the third day I headed off once again, I would get closer to Gothenburg and find a suitable 'Laying Up Point' near to where I'd been given an address of a friendly person who'd agreed to receive the package of studs from DHL.

Once again I took advantage of the Golden Arches, several coffees consumed whilst my phone tried to charge from the single electrical outlet in the place, I took care of some ablutions and tried to figure out what the weather was going to be

The daytime high temp was looking good though nightime lows were still being given around -10C to -12C but nothing worse than the other night so I wasn't phased






checking in back home I saw a message from Twitter, a Swedish biker had sent me a message a couple of days ago saying he was heading up from Hannover in a van and did I need any help or anything

I sent a message back expressing my thanks and stating my plan

He replied, they were in Varberg, only 80km south of Gothenburg, and if I wanted I could crash on a sofa?

Oh yes please (the idea of a hot shower had particular appeal by now!)

I filled up and attempted to find the address I'd been supplied on my little hand drawn map

then I hit a problem

the bike was running terribly, in fact It was trying to cut out on me and even when it wasn't I couldn't get above 20 mph, I lost the light and started to ride along the icy hard shoulder, I stopped and tried to figure it all out, I removed the plug, replaced it, checked the oil, I feared a coil failure or somesuch, I checked the carb bowl was still in place, I was clueless

But with dreams of hot showers I pressed on to the small town of Varberg at 20mph, terrified that I was somehow destroying my engine in a permanent manner but knowing I could do nothing out here in the cold dark of the night

I couldn't have been more pleased at what I arrived to in Varberg
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:30 PM   #32
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I was met by a neatly bearded man who showed me into what he would call home, as would I for a few days, but it was not your typical sofa surfing experience, in fact I'd sort of landed on my feet




Yep, the address was for a bike shop and I was a bit overwhelmed as I walked in to the warm lit showroom, frazzled from the stress of the journey, the random man from twitter welcomed me in, a German living in Sweden, his twitter profile showed a KTM adventure and as I asked him how he liked it and told him I had one too, I saw his bike, and immediately felt pretty bloody stupid (even more than usual)

on the front of his KTM's fuel tank was a distinctive red star, and near to that, a Rammstein sticker, I'd met this guy before!! he was the German guy that made up a trio of bikers coming towards Ulan Bataar the day Ed and I left last summer




Random certainly, but he'd caught wind of my venture through the Dutch biker he travelled with who had stayed in touch with Roy the guy I'd stayed with in the Netherlands who I'd in turn shared a beer with in the Oasis in Ulaan Bataar city, WOW! it's a small world

Anyway the leather sofa was in the middle of the bike showroom, the smell of polish and bike clothing ensured sweet dreams and a sound sleep, I just had to get up before the shop opened

there was a shower, and my host fed me pasta salad and salmon, it was amazing

the next morning I got to put my bike on a ramp in the workshop and set to work



I never did suss the issue fully, Kimi, the shops mechanic deemed it to be a fuelling issue but wasn't sure what, he rebored a main jet and the problem seemed to stop, but the conclusion was that perhaps it had been a carb icing issue? in any event the problem was gone, fresh oil and plug went in and everything was good.

So I had a nice time staying in Vincents bike shop in Varberg, met all the staff there who took my presence in their stride and the big boss, a Canadian born man who was the 'Vincent' in Vincents bikes came in and introduced himself as I drank filter coffee in the shops kitchen

he asked about the project, the website, how many hits had we had received, a canny businessman he was quick to get in touch with the local newspaper who came and did a little piece on me the following day and took my photo wearing the shops T-Shirt :-)

He'd also asked what I did for my day job, which is as a general builder, OK, He said, do you want to do some work?

Grateful for the roof over my head, the kindness of these people who had taken me in, and the fact I was killing time for a couple of days of course I agreed

So over the next couple of days I worked like a demon doing some shopfitting, I'd even worked until midnight to ensure all would be done on time, Vincent seemed pleased He took me for lunch and furthermore paid me for my time, which was pretty nice of him.

I also went out on another day with Uwe, my German friend in Sweden and got a little tour of the town

So I wasn't exactly roughing it on this part of the trip, far from it I was having a great time with nice people in one of my favourite countries






All too soon it was time to hit the road, but as a bonus I knew I had some accommodations lined up, Thanks to our very own TRC angel 'Diversion' she had a friend who had ended up living in Sarpsborg, which was doable in a day

I said goodbye to Uwe and the great team at Vincents




I took a little tour of Varberg and snapped some shots to give you an idea

Nice day for the beach









even the North sea had frozen!

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Old 01-05-2014, 02:28 AM   #33
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Its very rare i read all the text in ride reports, but i love sweden and norway, and your writing has captured my attention, great report.

Im considering taking my drz4 to trondheim later this year, would love to do it in the snow, youre inspiring me, keep it up!!!!
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:07 AM   #34
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Great stuff.
Subscribed.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:50 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Ant23 View Post
Its very rare i read all the text in ride reports, but i love sweden and norway, and your writing has captured my attention, great report.

Im considering taking my drz4 to trondheim later this year, would love to do it in the snow, youre inspiring me, keep it up!!!!
I took the little Honda for the challenge element of it, but I thoroughly liked some aspects of the cold weather camping, so peaceful, quiet and empty, and promised myself I would go back one day, the bike I'd choose? I figured a WR250R would be good and so therefore can only assume the DRZ would be awesome too.

I don't know if you've ridden up there before but I've also enjoyed Norway in the Summer, and the high passes that will be closed in the winter are a joy in the warmer weather, the Western Fjords are amazing beyond words! And I see you have an interest in Eastern Europe too, I'd definitely say the Baltics are worth seeing in the summer.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:15 PM   #36
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Whinning and sobbing!

I spent the day whinning about the cold weather and snow here, came in from the heated shop complaining to my wife about it being too cold to ride.....then read your RR! OK..thanks to you I realize what a dysfunctional weiney I've been and I'm over it! Now for some hot chocolate in my teddy bear mug!
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:25 PM   #37
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Great writing Mate!
A true Limey nutter!
Keep it coming
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:05 AM   #38
Ant23
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Originally Posted by stickysidedown View Post
I took the little Honda for the challenge element of it, but I thoroughly liked some aspects of the cold weather camping, so peaceful, quiet and empty, and promised myself I would go back one day, the bike I'd choose? I figured a WR250R would be good and so therefore can only assume the DRZ would be awesome too.

I don't know if you've ridden up there before but I've also enjoyed Norway in the Summer, and the high passes that will be closed in the winter are a joy in the warmer weather, the Western Fjords are amazing beyond words! And I see you have an interest in Eastern Europe too, I'd definitely say the Baltics are worth seeing in the summer.

Only ever done Scandinavia in the snow!
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:13 AM   #39
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Only ever done Scandinavia in the snow!
Well in that case enjoy (and send lots of photos that I can enjoy from the warm :-) )
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:36 AM   #40
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But before Sarpsborg I first had some tyre studs to collect from a midwife in Gothenburg, I'd met her briefly near London for dinner along with about 25 other Swedish midwives as they'd all come to see my then girlfriend (herself Norwegian by birth) give a talk on waterbirthing, in the US the delivery of children is much more surgically led, it's a cultural thing, but the midwife is a much more important role in the facilitation of birth here and my ex had been a driving force behind the set up of a new midwife led ward here. Now going to dinner with 26 Scandinavian ladies should have been this boys stuff of dreams, except for the fact they settle the bill a bit differently up there, I dont know how it works in the US but here in the UK you tend just to round up (unless its a few pence), chuck your money in the pot and whatever is over is a tip (the staff get paid a salary, so it really is a bonus no matter how small) But the Scandinavians all work out there exact share and pay it, so when the hat went round and the total amount turned out to be short chaos ensued 26 people writing down exactly what they had eaten/drunk on paper napkins, it took 45 minutes to establish that the restaurant had accidentally charged us for an extra meal! Personally I like our system where 26 people don't waste an hour of their evening for the sake of £2 a head!

Anyway this Midwife was out at work but I had an address and instructions as to where to find the package.

I eventually found the quiet little home and the package of studs, awesome! somewhere along the way I was flashed at and signalled with hazard lights by a small Peugeot, the bike felt good, so I cracked on only to discover later that my lower chain guard had committed suicide it probably got an inkling of what was coming up.

I apologise for any vehicle based damage my lower chainguard may have caused anyone, I lost the baffle from my 990 adventures Akra once, somewhere on the continent, it bounced on the road after apparently hitting a car windscreen, my friend was trying to catch me up at the time and was doing 140mph on his R1 when the bouncing baffle shot past his head close enough that he says he heard it go past!! when we stopped a half hour later and he told me the tale he was still white as a ghost and telling me that as a Royal Marine who'd just come back from a whole host of messy business out in Helmand Province,Afghanistan that ranked among one of his scariest experiences! Sorry!!

Getting yet more petrol I observed the newspaper, It seemed to have some really positive news on the front cover about the weather, My Swedish isn't fluent but I'm sure this translates as buy sunblock, heatwave coming!





I ran out of daylight at about the same time as I crossed the border into Norway and headed on to Sarpsborg.

After a couple of text messages as to how to find my host for the night I found myself bumping down some backstreets covered in sheet ice, and then I found it, the home of a lovely lady called Kris and her young son Ollie, I had a home cooked meal, copious amounts of tea and great conversation with the pair of them, both lovely people so I was glad I'd visited even though I felt guilty as I ended up taking Ollies room such was the benevolence of my hosts, I was actually there until quite late the next day as it had come time to book flights from Trondheim to home, which I elected to do via Poland to see friends as the flights worked out the same in cost either way.

Cracking lad and a future biker for sure, thanks for the loan of the room Ollie, it was appreciated!




I only had a short day planned as my next port of call was to see a friend in Oslo, here I would fit my tyres with the studs ready for the push north!!
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:34 AM   #41
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A true adventure motorcyclist.

England loves its eccentrics and stickysidedown must rank well in among them….. more power to him for that.

Having logged a good few miles in several countries, on smallish secondhand bikes, none of which cost more than $1,000….. all on the wages of an itinerant farmhand (for over 25 years of my life), I can identify where he is coming from. Still, his bike and budget are smaller than mine ever have been. His pluck and perseverance are beyond most of us.

It doesn't take a fleet of motorcycles, and a heap of cash to be an adventure motorcyclist.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:49 AM   #42
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Thank you all for the kind words, It's good to get feedback and yep even being called eccentric is quite nice if you are a 'Limey' though I should point out rich folk are eccentric, poor people are just crazy or so I'm told

I guess I would consider myself made richer by the experiences that two wheeled travel has afforded me over the years, and although it can only ever be like peering through a keyhole I hope to share some of those experiences with my brother motorcyclists, and secretly hope that just one person who was contemplating their own adventure, big or small, is influenced to go for it, to stop peering through the keyhole and to burst through the door into the adventure room.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:41 AM   #43
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Fan BLEEPIN Tastic RR. To quote my Brit buddy from Chatham, Kent- "my flabber has been darn well gasted." Or words to that affect. You write some funny shit. Keep it coming I'm subscribing to your RR bro.
Cheers.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:59 PM   #44
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I arrived in Oslo to the apartment of a friend distinctively named Attila who had warned me to expect him in a state of poor health, and so I had balanced the risk of catching a flu against the fact I would get to see a top bloke and his lovely partner Linda for dinner and a warm bed for the night, I'll be honest it was 50/50, the swing factor was that Attila had a cordless screwdriver all charged up so I could ft the tyre studs I'd carried up from Gothenburg. It was a good call as it was really lovely to join them for a fab chilli that seemed to stave off any flu bugs





I couldn't wait to have these little puppies installed, on the drive up to Oslo there had been more and more evidence of prolonged cold and although the main route from Gothenburg had been kept clear I knew that North of Oslo things would get a little more testing, but I was pretty confident I'd manage fine with these studs and I knew from experience the scenery I would come across would be amazing, so pretty soon I could ride around all relaxed and stuck to the road admiring my environs

except for one tiny little detail

The tyres I'd fitted were already half worn by the time I'd got to Oslo, and as a result the tip of the studs penetrated the tyre carcass, It was 0700 in the morning and the hardest part of my journey lay ahead, I was trying yet again to think what was best to do, and just as before when I thought I would have to make the journey without a tent I decided all I could do was press on regardless and hope for the best, I was short on time to make the decision, Attila needed to lock up and get to his day job keeping the Norwegian Air Forces F-16's flying. I fitted a few of the studs into my boots, so at least now I could walk on the sheet ice, something I hoped I wouldn't have to do too much of

The night before I'd also carefully studied my map, you know the enormous map of Europe I mentioned earlier that included Moscow, well there was a small omission so I had to draw my own extension!




I popped to a nearby shop, bought a few sundry items and selected a carbonated water on the grounds it might take longer to freeze solid (I have no idea if it would), completely irrelevant as less than a half hour later it was a block of ice

There were a lot of nice views heading North out of Oslo, but also a lot of large scale civil engineering works, for miles the traffic was limited to one lane with a steel barrier in the central reservation, and so everybody in Norway (or so it seemed) was stuck behind me for a few miles at a time until I could find somewhere to let them pass, my apologies to anyone late for work that day, but fret not as karmic retribution was almost instantaneous as I got a puncture.

not a bad place to get a puncture, once I'd ridden to a layby




Duct tape?




looked like I'd caught the tube and caused a pinch puncture after rushing to get my tyres on so as not to hold Attila up, stupid schoolboy error, well at least I had a spare tube. Effectively I'd ridden onto the works site for the engineering goings on (widening train route I think) so I was passed by numerous giant earth movers whose pilots shot me and my little machine disapproving looks from up high in their heated cabins.

I hit a small snag in that my trusty bicycle pump (which in the past has successfully seated full size tyres onto the KTM) had stopped working, now I am in the comfort of my home I can appreciate that this was down to the rubber plunger basically becoming brittle and failing to seal

I took in my surroundings and considered my options

further in to the worksite I was doubtless trespassing on there was a wooden building, large and with hangar style doors, I strolled on down with a wheel in hand and went inside

Bingo! it was a service bay for the mammoth machines working the site and somewhere behind one such machine a man with a welding mask was doing his thing as sparks flew and the air cracked with each lightning illumination.

He didn't speak English, but he saw me holding the wheel and was happy enough to down tools for 5 mins to take me to an airline which I utilised to bring my rear wheel back to life, he also asked me Kaffe? and through the universal language of charades I understood I was to pop back after sorting my wheel for a coffee.

Strangely as I drank a coffee, he had nothing, but we managed some communication and I learnt he was a Swede here for work, he offered me some of his lunch which I declined as it really did just seem to be his only lunch, and with an iron handshake we said goodbye. Yet another amazing individual who had looked upon me and thought, this guy needs coffee!

I pressed on North until my junction where with a mixture of trepidation and excitement I turned my back on the civilised E6 highway to take a smaller road North.

I didn't know it at the time, but this road would take me up the East Valley or Østerdalen, the coldest part of Norway, I also didn't know that it was due to snow

I did know my feet and hands hurt like hell from the cold, that there was an abundance of snow and ice and despite that the sun was out and it was sparsely populated and beautiful here





I saw another biker at one point! Ok so he had a sidecar and studs, and a giant screen, and enormous muffs, but for a moment I felt lifted to know I wasn't entirely alone out here, the first bike I'd seen on the roads since London!

I was also able to develop my special Norwegian riding style, essentially you have to read the road miles in advance, your only braking is from the studs you screwed into your boots back in Oslo and if a deer runs out in front of you remember to close your eyes and hope for the best
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:28 AM   #45
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Grit!

You got grit son!
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